access fund position on climbing and raptors
Seasonal climbing restrictions to protect nesting raptors (including closures of portions of cliffs) have been implemented since the 1970s in areas such as Yosemite National Park. Such restrictions were unusual as a management tool at that time. However, this situation has changed drastically to the extent that resource managers across the US have now implemented seasonal restrictions at 91 individual climbing sites. Collation of this information by the Access Fund shows that these restrictions are in place in 15 states (with 21 restrictions in Colorado alone) and that in the past four years there has been a 40-percent increase in the number of new restrictions implemented. There are several reasons for this increase:
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Recovery of falcon populations
The foremost reason is that raptor species such as the peregrine falcon, which are protected at the federal and state level, are recovering from the effects of pesticides in the food web in the 1960s. This means the status of the population is changing; falcons are returning to historic nest sites where they have been absent for more than two decades and expanding their range into new areas. -
Increase in the popularity of rock climbing
As rock climbing has grown in popularity and modern technology has increased the spectrum of possible climbing experiences, climbing activity has spread into new areas. Some areas only recently explored by climbers are nesting territory for raptor species, and this may have led to the introduction of new climbing restrictions. -
More effective raptor monitoring programs
Cooperation between resource managers and conservation organizations has increased surveying efforts and has resulted in more effective raptor monitoring programs. As further information is supplied on occupied historic nest sites and new nest sites are reported, land managers are required to take measures which protect these species from potential disturbance.
How Flexible is the Restriction Program?
Land managers are legally obliged to take measures to protect the nest sites of threatened or endangered raptors. This can be a tricky task because falcon nest sites can vary from year to year. In addition, raptors sometimes do not use restricted nesting sites, may show breeding behavior but fail to nest, or delay nesting due to unusual climate conditions.
Progressive resource managers operate flexible restriction systems to allow for these situations. Examples include Eldorado Canyon State Park, Colo., Pinnacles National Monument, Calif. and the White Mountains in New Hampshire. For all these sites, if the raptors fail to nest in a closed area, arrangements are in place for the restriction to be lifted mid-season (usually mid-May) and for public information to be provided.
Why should restrictions be respected by climbers?
Climbers have a good record of supporting raptor nesting restrictions and continued compliance will be critical in developing and maintaining good relations with biologists and resource managers. It is the responsibility of all climbers to keep up-to-date by checking sources such as local signs and brochures, climbing magazines, guidebooks, and information produced by the Access Fund on our web site and newsletter.
Learning more about climber/raptor interaction - the role of the Access Fund
Much is still to be learned about how climbers impact raptors. In efforts to advance knowledge, the Access Fund has produced the handbook Raptors & Climbers, in consultation with biologists and land managers. This publication (Access Fund, 1997) covers new ground, providing common-sense guidelines for managing climbing activity to protect raptor nest sites. For a copy, contact the Access Fund at 303.545.6772. The price is $10 plus shipping to Access Fund members.
Complimentary copies of the manual have been circulated to resource managers, biologists, climbing organization representatives and assistants working in the field.
How can climbers provide assistance with determining and managing climbing restrictions?
Climbers can be a great source of help to raptor biologists by providing volunteer help for a range of tasks. For example, climbers have helped with raptor monitoring, circulated local information on restrictions, positioned signs, and provided observations to resource managers on new raptor sightings or unusual behavior. Climbers can also assist managers in areas like banding work, where roped access or technical climbing skills are required to gain access to cliff ledges. If you would like to become more involved, contact the park manager or wildlife biologist for your area.



