After years of public meetings, agency analysis and legal review, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) became the first federal agency to publish a nationwide policy governing the use of new fixed anchors in designated wilderness.

On March 15 the BLM’s Washington, DC office released an instruction memo (IM) that clarifies BLM policy regarding the management of “Permanent Fixed Anchors for Climbing in Designated Wilderness Areas Managed by BLM.” For full text see of the IM, see www.blm.gov/nhp/efoia/wo/fy07/im2007-084.htm The BLM policy recognizes that climbing is a legitimate and appropriate use of BLM Wilderness Areas and that the use of climbing “fixed anchors has a history that predates the Wilderness Act.”

This document, which the BLM considers a restatement of existing policy and thus did not asking for public comment, “provides guidance on the use of permanent fixed anchors in BLM’s designated Wilderness Areas…and reaffirms the authority of the BLM to manage climbing in Wilderness Areas including establishing restrictions or conditions for climbing.”

Since the early 1990s climbers and wilderness managers for all the major federal land management agencies were unclear as to the controlling law regarding the placement of new fixed anchors in designated wilderness. Since that time several efforts have been made by the BLM, US Forest Service and National Park Service to devise policies that allow for limited fixed anchor opportunities while fulfilling the paramount goal of preserving wilderness values, however until now no formal comprehensive policy has ever been published.

The BLM’s policy states that although climbing generally does not require an authorization permit, climbers may not use power drills to place permanent fixed anchors in non-emergency situations. Climbers may use hand-powered drills to place permanent fixed anchors in wilderness so long as the climbing does not cause unacceptable impacts on BLM Wilderness Areas. The manager of local field units may require visitors to get a permit or other authorization to replace or remove an existing permanent fixed anchor or place a new permanent fixed anchor and local managers may strive for low densities of climbing routes.

To achieve these standards, local BLM managers may prepare either Wilderness Management Plans or supplemental climbing management plans that include climbing management decisions. The BLM may also use its authority to protect public health and safety, prevent unacceptable impacts in Wilderness Areas, or minimize visitor use conflicts. Note that this IM does not cover the extensive climbing found in wilderness study areas (WSAs)—such as that found around Moab, Utah and elsewhere—where interim management policies prohibit the placement of any new fixed anchors.

The implications of the BLM’s fixed anchor policy will be determined by the details of an upcoming wilderness management plan for Red Rocks, Nevada where the BLM is close to announcing details and schedule for that plan of which climbing is but one very small part. Nonetheless, for climbers this plan is important especially with regard to fixed anchor polices because over 98% of the BLM’s wilderness climbing lies in two wilderness areas located at Red Rocks. The popular sport climbing areas located off the loop road are not within designated wilderness; see www.nv.blm.gov/vegas/WAs/index.htm for specific wilderness boundaries and other details.

Whether or not the BLM’s fixed anchor policy accomplishes its intended purpose will depend largely on how it is implemented in the upcoming Red Rocks plan. Stay tuned to the Access Fund ENEWS and Vertical Times—or contact the BLM—regarding the specific schedule for the Red Rocks planning process.

For more information from the BLM, contact Jeff Jarvis, Division Chief, Wilderness, Rivers, and Trails, (202) 452-5189, jjarvis@blm.gov.

More information can be found by contacting the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council www.lvclc.org/ or emailing jason@accessfund.org.

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