ACCESS FUND

The Access Fund: "Your Climbing Future"
Virtual Times #14
http://www.accessfund.org/
November 2001
Submissions/comments for the Virtual Times are welcome via email to mailto:john@accessfund.org

IN THIS ISSUE:
1. Year-end Note from Sam Davidson, AF Executive Director
2. Castleton Tower Preservation Initiative
3. Climbers Working to Purchase Boat Rock in Atlanta, GA
4. Adopt-a-Crag Events Continue after September 8th
5. One-time Public Meetings Concerning the Red River Gorge, KY
6. Skytop Update
7. Shelf Road Volunteer Weekend
8. "Fifty Favorite Climbs" Wins Banff Award
9. Department of Corrections

1. Year-end Note from Sam Davidson, AF Executive Director

Last night we had the first real snowfall here along the Front Range of Colorado. Suddenly it really feels like winter, and the Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays are right around the corner. This is an important time of year for the Access Fund – we typically accept 40% or more of our annual income in the months of November, December, and January. As you visit your favorite peak, crag, bouldering area, or ice routes this season, please think about how much climbing means to you and consider what you can do to help preserve climbing access.
There’s proper behavior, of course, what Buddhists call Right Conduct. You can preach the basics to the unenlightened – climb invisibly, leave it natural; join or form a local climbers group, write a Christmas card to your local land manager; and you can make a year-end donation to the Access Fund, the only climbers’ organization dedicated solely to preserving climbing freedoms and protecting the climbing environment. Look for our special mailing in your post box by mid-December. I ask you to give generously to support the Access Fund and other causes, which contribute to a healthier environment, better public awareness of critical issues, and the preservation of personal freedoms. It is these freedoms, after all, which distinguish our nation from others.

Best wishes to you and your friends, loved ones, and climbing partners.

SAM DAVIDSON
Executive Director

EDITOR’S NOTE: Due to the redesign and addition of color to the "Vertical Times," mailing of the newsletter has been delayed by one week. Members should expect to see their "Vertical Times" by Thanksgiving. To join the Access Fund, receive the bi-monthly newsletter, and keep informed about climbing access issues, click JOIN on our website at http://www.accessfund.org/

2. Castleton Tower Preservation Initiative

The Castleton Tower Preservation Initiative (CTPI) seeks to protect the integrity of one of the most famous and spectacular climbing landmarks in North America. For over 40 years, climbers have come from around the world to camp below and climb on Castleton Tower. The natural beauty of the unspoiled desert landscape is part of what makes the climbing experience on Castleton and other nearby rock formations so appealing. Through the acquisition and preservation of threatened lands, the CTPI endeavors to permanently protect the landscape adjacent to this treasured American climbing icon.

The Access Fund has been working with Utah Open Lands (UOL) and the Castle Rock Collaboration (CRC) to assist in the acquisition and preservation of land adjacent to Castleton Tower. Acquisition of a 221-acre parcel by UOL will preserve access to Castleton Tower and permanently protect the historic climber’s bivy site.
The Access Fund will be one of the sponsors at a benefit for the CTPI on November 19th at the Market Street Grill in Salt Lake City. Look for periodic updates about the CTPI in future issues of the Vertical Times and e-news. For more information click http://www.castlerockcollaboration.org/

3. Climbers Working to Purchase Boat Rock in Atlanta, GA

Boat Rock, a popular bouldering area in Atlanta, Georgia, is threatened by development. The Southeast Climbers’ Coalition and the AF have pledged to preserve access to the area. Members of the SEC have pooled their personal resources as a down payment on the purchase of the 7.7-acre tract on Boat Rock Road in Southwest Atlanta. Additional partners are needed to co-sign on the note and solidify the deal. The SEC currently needs your financial support to make this happen. The AF is prepared to help in a variety of ways, including funding. Interested parties should contact mbmcleod@mindspring.com or click http://www.seclimbers.org/ for more information.

4. Adopt-a-Crag Events Continue after September 8th

Climbers and volunteers across the United States celebrated the 2nd annual Access Fund Adopt-a-Crag day at 67 climbing areas in 25 states. Over 2,000 people united September 8th to build and restore 150 miles of trail and clear thousands of bags of trash from crags. Adopt-a-Crag Day is the only national climbers’ event dedicated to conservation and grassroots activism. Four more projects took place after September 8th at the following areas: Zion, Utah; Bishop, California; and Lumpy Ridge and the Amphitheater in Colorado. One of the primary goals of Adopt-a-Crag Day is educating the climbing community about the importance of stewardship, and teaching climbers the skills needed to protect their local climbing areas. Galyan’s (http://www.galyans.com/), a sporting goods retailer with 21 locations nationwide, was the 2001 Title sponsor. CLIF Bar (http://www.clifbar.com/) contributed significantly as the Supporting sponsor. In addition to their sponsorship of Adopt-a-Crag, Galyan’s and CLIF Bar are Access Fund Corporate Sponsors.

Erosion control and trash removal remained the focus of most events this year as climbers worked side by side with land managers to beautify and restore popular climbing areas. Climber-activists performed improvements in trail maintenance and construction, chalk clean-ups, regrading of switchbacks, building of retaining walls, clearing of drainages and water bar construction, re-rocking of parking areas, mulching and stabilization of belay areas, cliff top enhancement, anchor replacement and more. Most event organizers listed the improvement in public relations with land managers and in the reputation of climbers as the number one benefit of their event. Major highlights included:

Hammond Pond, MA – over 90 volunteers between the ages of three and 65 showed up from RI, CT, NH and MA to improve trails, mitigate erosion and trash removal. Participants learned about Leave No Trace and were encouraged to write action letters to Congress regarding Fee Demo.

Palisades Park, AL – 41 very organized climbers joined together to clean up this park just outside of Birmingham, AL. This project strengthened relationships with the park employees, board and park superintendent.

Lumpy Ridge, CO – The Central Rockies Section of the American Alpine Club partnered with the Access Fund for a successful Adopt-A-Crag day at Lumpy Ridge. This second annual Access Fund event took place on October 13th after being snowed out on September 8. Members of the University of Colorado Alpine and 6 National Park Service employees joined a dozen climbers and staff members of the AAC and AF. The group divided into two teams to improve the climber access trail to the Sundance Needle. One team installed 64 wooden water bars at a point where the climber trail spurs off the Black Canyon Creek Trail. The second team ascended 500 vertical feet to clean the single track trail that descends an 800’ gully on the east side of the Sundance Needle.

Independence Pass, CO – climbers worked in conjunction with the Forest Service and the Independence Pass Foundation at the International Outdoor Festival in Aspen Colorado to plant 170 trees on a steep slope at 11,600' below the road (all 12 volunteers are now current AF members).

"Grass-roots activism and conservation of the climbing environment are key to the Access Fund’s success in keeping climbing areas open," said Access Fund Development Director Heather Clark. "By organizing Adopt-a-Crag day at crags around the country, we hope to show local land managers, other users of public lands and climbers that we are willing to devote the time and energy needed to protect the resources we all share."
For more info on Adopt-a-Crag see the Access Fund website at: http://www.accessfund.org/events/events_wrapup_adopt.htm

5. One-time Public Meetings Concerning the Red River Gorge, KY

The Daniel Boone National Forest (75% of all Red River climbs are on national forest land) is holding one-time public meetings about the future of the forest which will affect the future of climbing for the next ten to fifteen years! No local climber should miss these meetings! There are seven locations statewide, from Louisville to northern Kentucky near Cincinnati, from November 26-December 6, 3:00-5:00 pm or 7:00-9:00 pm. The Red River Gorge Climbing Coalition is mobilizing the entire climbing community to get involved. For more information, see the RRGCC website at http://www.RRGCC.org/

6. Skytop Update

Representatives from the Mohonk Preserve and the Access Fund met recently with the president of the Mohonk Mountain House, Bert Smiley. Mr. Smiley has received numerous letters in the past few months regarding re-opening Skytop to climbing. Most of the letters were positive, many speaking of the historical significance Skytop holds for climbers, which Bert understands. Mr. Smiley remains optimistic that climbing in some fashion will one day be allowed at Skytop, but can make no commitment as to a time when that may happen. Among the many hurdles to overcome are insurance costs, lack of adequate NY state liability statutes and stewardship issues. A continued letter writing campaign directed at the Mountain House is not recommended at this time, since Mr. Smiley understands climbers’ stance on the subject. Dialogue will continue between the Mountain House, the Preserve and the Access Fund. For more information on the Shawangunks, click on http://www.gunks.com/

7. Shelf Road Volunteer Weekend

The Rocky Mountain Field Institute will be hosting its 9th Annual Volunteer Trail Maintenance Weekend at the Shelf Road climbing area near Canon City on the weekend of November 17-18. The focus of the weekend will be on the Cactus Cliff trail. To find out more about the weekend or how you can register, call the Rocky Mountain Field Institute in Colorado Springs at 719.471.7736 or click http://www.rmfi.org/ for more information.

8. "Fifty Favorite Climbs" Wins Banff Award

On the evening of November 1, awards were presented at the 8th Annual Banff Mountain Book Festival held in Banff, Alberta, Canada. Three titles published by The Mountaineers Books—"Kiss or Kill," "Fifty Favorite Climbs," and "The High Himalaya"—were selected as winners in three categories.

Best Book—Mountain Exposition, sponsored by Mountain Lights Bookstore, Lake Louise, Canada—$500 was awarded to Fifty Favorite Climbs: The Ultimate North American Tick List, by Mark Kroese ($32.95 trade paperback original; 0-89886-763-0). Kroese is the Vice President of the Access Fund Board of Directors. Jury member Maria Coffey comments, "I like the way we get to know each climber, and learn about their chosen climb through both their personal experience of it and the comprehensive route description."

Kroese is donating 25% of the proceeds for his book to the Access Fund. Order your copy today at http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/

9. Department of Corrections

Virtual Times regrets the misspelling of the Mohonk in the October issue (#13).

Virtual Times Policies:
1. The Access Fund office in Boulder is the only source of
outgoing messages to the lists.
2. The AF will not sell or give away email addresses for the V-Times.
3. V-Times is an announcement-only e-mail list; therefore, you cannot reply to any of the list members.
4. All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail sent.

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