your climbing future

VIRTUAL TIMES #21
July 2002
www.accessfund.org/
E-News Online

 


IN THIS ISSUE:
1. Access Fund Hires Steve Matous as new Executive Director
2. THANK YOU--for letting us know what you think - survey results
3. Washington State Trip
4. Design Team to Visit the Valley
5. Help Keep Cave Rock Open
6. Adopt-a-Crag 2002 Scheduled Events
7. Give to Save Climbing in the Future
8. Boat Rock "Don't take it for granite" Party
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1. Access Fund Hires New Executive Director
Steve Matous to lead climbers advocacy group
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Steve Matous has been appointed Executive Director of the Access Fund, effective August 1, 2002. Matous replaces Sam Davidson, who will step down as Executive Director in August.

Matous brings a diverse professional and climbing background to the position. Since 1993, he has operated Great Escapes USA, an outfitting business organizing treks and climbing expeditions in Nepal, Tibet, Ladakh, & Sikkim. Prior to this, Matous was Program Director at the Colorado Outward Bound School, overseeing river and mountaineering operations. Matous also worked as a ranger in Rocky Mountain National Park, and founded and ran two climbing guide services.

Matous has the distinction of being a featured participant in the first-ever live televised shows of rock climbing in the United States: Matous was part of ABC's Wide World of Sports filming of ascents of Angel's Landing in Zion National Park, Devils Tower in Wyoming and Castleton Tower in Utah.

Matous began climbing in the early 1960's in Central Park in New York, under the keen eye of his grandfather. His brother would bring a clothesline and they would hand-over-hand up the boulders in the Park. His first "real" climbing took place at the Shawangunks in New York, and he spent his college years doing first ascents in Vedauwoo, in southern Wyoming. Since then Matous has traveled widely to climb - he has succeeded on difficult routes in Alaska, climbed "full conditions" ice in Scotland, skied and climbed in Chamonix, France, and climbed or attempted Everest, K2, Manaslu, and Ama Dablam in the Himalaya.

Matous is an AMGA-certified guide in rock and alpine climbing, a long-time member of the Access Fund and American Alpine Club, and enjoys skiing, cycling, and other outdoor activities.

Matous said, "I am psyched about my new role as Executive Director at the Access Fund. I thrive on challenge and will be running hard to get my arms wrapped around the many issues, problems, and concerns facing the climbing community." He added, "I was very impressed throughout the hiring process with everyone at the Access Fund. I look forward to working with our board of directors, staff, and field volunteers to preserve climbing access and defend climbing freedoms."

Becky Hall, president of the Access Fund board, said, "We are delighted to announce Steve's selection as our new Executive Director. He brings a wealth of business experience, climbing relationships, and an impressive climbing resume to the position. We are confident Steve will take the Access Fund to the next level of success."
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2. THANK YOU--for letting us know what you think!
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The Access Fund's 2002 Climber Survey was a great success, with over 2,000 climbers responding (a phenomenal 42% response rate!). Here's a brief summary of what you told us. (More information on the survey results will be posted in the next issue of Vertical Times).

The 3 most important things the Access Fund does for you:
a.Educates climbers on self-regulation and reduction of impact.
b.Represents climbers in land management & policymaking.
c.Protects the environment, including vegetation & wildlife.

What the Access Fund does best:
a. Represents climbers' interests with land managers/government officials.
b. Defends climber freedoms.
c. Supports local climber action & projects.

CONGRATULATIONS to the survey respondents who won Maxim ropes:
Chad Bradford of Baltimore, MD
Michael Gilliland of Holt, MI
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3. Washington State Trip
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In June Jason Keith, Access Fund policy analyst, traveled to Washington State and met with officials in the Mt-Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, the Wenatchee & Okanogan National Forest, and North Cascades National Park to discuss climbing-related management issues. The purpose of this visit was to be pro-active in dealing with potential closures, management planning, and recreational impact issues.

Access Trails - A major issue on the Mt-Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest is "user-built" trails (such as those that provide access to Mt. Baring, Forgotten Peak, Mt. Persing, and Mt. Shuksan). If such trails become seriously degraded, the USFS may have to limit recreational users numbers or close the trails entirely.

The Access Fund pledged to help with the trails issue by providing grant funding and collaboration on climber education and outreach.

Road Closures are also an issue on Forest Service land in Washington. Some of the existing road system will be decommissioned while others will simply be "closed" through lack of maintenance. Near Darrington, the Copper Creek Road accessing the Green Giant Buttress is a road to be discontinued through "inaction" (it will no longer be maintained for the last 2-3 miles). Other roads, which provide climbing access but could be closed through lack of maintenance, include the Squire Creek Road accessing Squire Creek Buttress.

Keith also met with officials on the Wenatchee & Okanogan National Forest concerning climbing issues on the Leavenworth, Methow and Tieton districts. Issues raised include owl/peregrine nesting and migration, high use levels, erosion, and route "cleaning" impacts to sensitive plant species. In the next few years, the USFS may develop a climbing management plan for this forest.

Raptor Closures - Keith and Access Fund Regional Coordinator Andy Fitz spoke with USFS officials regarding the Midnight Rock and Noontime Rock raptor closure. The mandatory raptor closure at Midnight/Noontime followed an experiment in which the USFS instituted a voluntary closure; unfortunately this was not honored by some climbers. The USFS then imposed a mandatory closure that was lifted in mid-July after the peregrine pair were no longer using the nest. The closure is noteworthy, and fully supported by the Access Fund, because it is one of the most flexible and least restrictive of all raptor closures the AF has dealt with.

Sensitive Plants - The Leavenworth office also expressed concerns that new route activity might impact the 50-odd sensitive plants found in the area - some of which tend to grow out of cracks. Six of these plants are near climbing areas such as the classic Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon. New routes might be limited to protect these sensitive and rare plants.

Road Closures. The Leavenworth District will replace bridges up the Icicle Creek Road starting July 15, 2002. Eight Mile Road will be closed, thus greatly extending the approach time to the Enchantment Lakes area. The entire Enchantment allotment/quota (Alpine Lakes Wilderness) will be accessible through the Snow Creek Trailhead. The reason for the timing of the closure is because the USFS can't work in the winter, and because of conditions in their construction permit under the Endangered Species Act (impacts to the salmon spawning season).

Fee Demo. The Leavenworth District made a point of their commitment to enforcing access fee collection. All violators will receive a $50 fine. The Access Fund opposes special "use fees" and will not support the USFS's effort to "police" fee collection.

At the North Cascades National Park, Keith met with agency officials regarding a new sport climbing and bouldering area near Newhalem in the Ross Lake National Recreation Area. These new areas are getting a lot of attention and the rangers are concerned with bolting, cleaning of moss, extensive manipulation of landing areas (terracing), and caching of tools. The Park will likely develop a climbing management plan for the area with assistance from the Access Fund. It is likely that existing and new routes will be permitted in the future, but in the meantime climbers should hold off on creating new routes until the Park can do natural and cultural resource surveys. Perhaps as early as August 2002, the NPS will send out a "scoping" letter and solicit public input. If you would like to comment on climbing in the Ross Lake NRA, email Roy_Zipp@nps.gov to get your name on the mailing list.
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4. Design Team to Visit the Valley
(Report submitted by Donald McLarty, Yosemite Project Management Team) ____________________________________________________
An overnight camp-out with Sasaki Associates, the architectural design firm selected by Yosemite National Park for the expansion of Camp 4, is scheduled for Sunday, August 11, 2002. The design team will be staying overnight for a first-hand experience of how Camp 4 functions. If you would like to meet the design team please join them for this informal event.
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5. Help Keep Cave Rock Open
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In the next few months the US Forest Service will likely prohibit climbing at Cave Rock, a unique crag on the south shore of Lake Tahoe in Nevada. A strong and rapid response from climbers is required to stop this closure. To learn how you can help keep Cave Rock Open, see http://www.accessfund.org/programs/programs_news_cave_rock.html.
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6. Adopt-a-Crag 2002 Scheduled Events
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Adopt-a-Crag Day is about giving back to your local climbing community and your favorite climbing area.

On September 7, the Access Fund will lead climbers in trail projects and conservation events at nearly 100 crags around the country.

To become involved call (303) 545-6772, ext. 112, email adoptacrag@accessfund.org, or see http://www.accessfund.org. Represent your state and register an event today! Below is a list of events that are already registered.

ALASKA
8/1 Girdwood, AK - Adopt-a-Crag Alaska Style - Wayne Fuller
907-783-0186

ALABAMA
9/7 Hoover, AL - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Moss Rock Preserve - Lee Means 205-566-7284

ARIZONA
9/7 Phoenix, AZ - AMC Adopt-a-Crag - Jennifer Davies 602-808-3817
9/7 Tucson, AZ - Adopt-a-Crag Day - James DeRoussel 520-544-8028
9/7 Tempe, AZ - Adopt-a-Crag Day - Paul Diefenderfer 602-921-8322

CALIFORNIA
9/7 San Rafael, CA - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Mt. Tamalpais - Rebecca Revel 415-485-6931
9/28 Jenner, CA - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Goat Rocks - Jerry Dodrill 707-824-4862
9/14 Mill Valley, CA - Adopt-a-Crag and Trail Day at Mickey's Beach - Em Holland 415-383-7557
9/7 Silverado, CA - Adopt Echo Cliffs in Santa Monica Mountains - Louie Anderson 714-479-5881
9/7 La Mesa, CA - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Mt. Woodson - Art Messier 619-461-0173
10/5 Bishop, CA - Adopt-a-Crag at the Happy and Sad Boulders - Scott Justham 760-872-5034
9/7 San Diego, CA - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Mission Gorge - Dave Kennedy 858-679-8682
9/22 Trukee, CA - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Donner Summit - Susan Sheffield

COLORADO
9/7 Colorado Springs, CO - Adopt-A-Crag- Garden of the Gods - Aric Stahly 719-205-5563
10/5 Boulder, CO - Adopt-a-Crag Day in the Flatirons - Dan Bereck 303-440-9194
10/12 Estes Park, CO - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Lumpy Ridge - Greg Sievers 970-586-4075

GEORGIA
9/7 Norcross, GA - Lost Wall on Pigeon Mountain - Tom Osborne 770-263-7975

IDAHO
9/7 Pocatello, ID - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Ross Park - Peter Joyce 208-282-3912
9/15 Boise, ID - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Tablerock - Tracy Wilson 208-344-5501 x.242
9/21 Ketchum, ID - Adopt-a-Crag Day, Wilderness Climbing Symposium - Bob Rosso, Kirk
Bachman 208-726-7400

KENTUCKY
9/7 Lexington, KY - Adopt-a-Crag Day at the Red River Gorge-Shannon Stuart-Smith 859-269-8796

MASSACHUSSETS
9/7 Arlington, MA -Adopt-a-Crag at Quincy Quarry Scott Sandberg 781-648-1294

MINNESOTA
9/7 Minneapolis, MN - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Barn Bluff - Brent Zwiers 612-237-6606

MISSOURI
9/7 Saint Louis, MO - Adopt-a-Crag Day in Jackson's Falls - Todd Oswald 314-962-7715
9/7 Columbia, MO - Adopt-a-Crag Day in Capen Park - Letha Albright 573-499-4902

MONTANA
9/7 Missoula, MT - Adopt-a-Crag Day in Missoula - Steve Porcella 406-363-9271

NORTH CAROLINA
9/7 Hendersonville, NC - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Looking Glass - Adam Fox 828 - 692-3591
9/7 Fayetteville, NC - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Pilot, Crowders, and Moore's - Michael Pinkston 910-497-2007
8/10 Raleigh, NC - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Moore's Wall - Aram Attarian 919-859-2125

NEW MEXICO
10/5 Albuquerque, NM - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Enchanted Tower - Byran Pletta 505-341-2016

NEVADA
9/7 Boulder City, NV - Adopt-a-Crag Day in Keyhole Canyon - John DeBoer 702-591-5384

NEW YORK
9/14 Hamilton, NY - Adirondack's Adopt-a-Crag at the Beer Walls - Josh Baker 315-228-7323

OHIO
9/14 Euclid, OH - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Whipp's Ledges - Leslie Kaminski 216-692-3300

TENNESSEE
9/7 Lenoir City, TN - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Obed Wild and Scenic River - Frank Harvey 865-986-6618

TEXAS
9/21 Helotes, TX - Enchanted Rock Trail Build - Mike Lewis 210-695-3046

UTAH
9/7 Salt Lake City, UT - Adopt-a-Crag Day in Little Cottonwood Canyon - Steve Downes 801-468-0847
10/12 Ivins, UT - Adopt Snow Canyon - Kristen Comella 435-628-2255
10/22 Springdale, UT - Adopt-a-Crag in Zion - Jill Sheesley 435-772-7610
9/7 Provo, UT - Adopt-a-Crag Day in American Fork Canyon - Jeff Pederson 801-420-1181

WASHINGTON
8/17 North Bend, WA - Clean Up Little Si - Andy Fitz 360-586-6752
9/20 Vantage, WA - Frenchman Coulee Trail Project - Andy Fitz 360-586-6752
9/7 Everett, WA - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Index - Suzanne Thornock 425-258-3431

WISCONSIN
9/7 Steven's Point, WI - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Steven's Point - Ben Houdek 715-344-8318

WYOMING
9/7 Casper, WY - Adopt-a-Crag Day in Fremont Canyon - Kevin Siebke 307-266-1136
9/7 Jackson, WY - Adopt-a-Crag Day at Black Hill Butte - Susan Garlow 307-413-6302
9/7 Cody, WY - Adopt-a-Crag Day in Shoshone River Canyon - Kenny Gasch 307-587-4944
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7. Give to Save Climbing in the Future
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Now is the time to help the Access Fund plan for your grandchildren's climbing future. The Access Fund has all the resources to make planned giving easy. Give a planned gift; it is the best way to leave an enduring legacy for climbing.

* Stock
* Bequest
* Charitable Gift Annuity
* Pooled Income Fund
* Charitable Remainder Annuity Trust
* Charitable Remainder Unitrust
* Lead Trusts
* Name The Access Fund as a beneficiary in your life insurance policy or retirement plan

If your gift is $10,000 or more, you may designate it for one of the following categories: Acquisitions, Advocacy & Activism, Membership, Conservation, Adopt-a-Crag, Education, Climbing Preservation Grants or Unrestricted. For more information on the Access Fund's planned giving program, contact Heather Clark, Development Director,
303-545-6772 x.100 or heather@accessfund.org.
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8. Boat Rock "Don't take it for granite" Party
(Report from http://www.seclimbers.org/)
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The largest showing for any Southeastern Climbers Coalition event to date, over 200 partiers, jammed the 1150 Club in downtown Atlanta for a gala fundraiser to help save Boat Rock.

Longtime southern climbing activist Shannon Stegg kicked off the event with a short talk about all of the good times at Boat Rock and showed some slides of the area from the collections of Tim Waring and Mike Williams. A short video by Wes Powell followed the slide show with many action shots of climbing and a history of the area. Then, noted alpinist Ed Webster hit the stage and had the crowd drooling over his spectacular slides. Later that evening the fashion show kicked in and had the audience on their feet, shouting their approval. The grand final was a huge silent auction and raffle, which raised nearly $3000. As the curtain closed, the event raised almost $8,000.00 after expenses, which is nearly a year of mortgage payments for Boat Rock.

The Access Fund provided a $10,000 grant earlier this year to the SEC for the purchase and protection of Boat Rock.

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