AF E-News #27
January 2003
The Access Fund
your climbing future
http://www.accessfund.org/
E-News Online

Editor's Note: The AF has changed the name of our electronic newsletter from the "Virtual Times" to the "AF E-News" to minimize confusion between this publication and the "Vertical Times" print newsletter.

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IN THIS ISSUE:
A. Throwing Down the Gauntlet: Encouraging Activism to Ensure Access
B. Access Fund Releases Top 10 Endangered Climbing Areas List
C. Access Fund Receives the "Alaska Excellence Award"
D. Climbing Access Threatened at Mt. Rose Natural Area, NJ
E. Save The Ridge
F. Access Fund to launch Membership Incentive Program
G. Climbing Magazine Featured Partner
H. Give the Gift of Climbing
I. Vertical Times Newsletter Electrified!
J. Job Announcement: Grassroots Coordinator
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A. Throwing Down the Gauntlet: Encouraging Activism to Ensure Access
by Kate Cavicchio, Event Coordinator
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It is a sunny Saturday afternoon, late September. The parking lot in Eldorado Canyon is full-overflowing, actually. Parties are queued up for the trade routes-the Bastille Crack, the Yellow Spur, the Naked Edge. Even Eldorado's more obscure lines are occupied.

"Who are all these people," you grumble to yourself, temporarily forgetting that there was a time when rock climbing was as foreign to you as a Turkish road sign. Hold on a minute, take a step back. Yes, there are more climbers now than ever before, but you went to kindergarten-you know how to share. There's enough rock to go around-if you take action to protect it.
To keep a climbing area open, to protect climbing resources for this and future generations, you must make your voice heard. Tell the powers-that-be how you feel about their plan for the land-and rock-in your backyard. Complaining to your buddies over beers doesn't count! Write your legislator, contact your local climbing organization, call the Access Fund. You are empowered to create change.

Landowners and managers are unlikely to conserve an area's climbing environment unless they know that people care about climbing there. Write them, call them, email them, hell-create a power point presentation. You have a voice-use it.
The Access Fund recently issued two Action Alerts, notices to climbers of closure threats in their areas. (For more information on these, please log onto www.accessfund.org.) By sending these alerts, we are not attempting to overflow your email in-box, nor are we trying to preach our policy on a virtual soapbox. Our goal is to encourage you to take action.
To assist you, the Access Fund has created an "Activist's Toolbox," offering tips for writing effective letters to land managers, legislators, and elected officials: www.accessfund.org/programs/programs_tool.html
Remember, silence is consent!

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B. Access Fund Releases Top 10 Endangered Climbing Areas List
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The Access Fund has been working to preserve or restore access to all of these important climbing areas. Such efforts often require much time and expense - we need your support and activism to succeed.

1. Cave Rock, NV. POSSIBLE CLOSURE. Working to prevent discriminatory closure of Lake Tahoe's premier sport climbing crag.
2. Hueco Tanks State Historic Site, TX. RESTRICTIONS. Slowly improving access through conservation grants and direct advocacy.
3. Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT. POSSIBLE CLOSURES. Supporting Salt Lake Climbers Alliance in negotiations with LDS church to ensure continued access to Gate Buttress and other church owned land.
4. Little River Canyon, AL. POSSIBLE CLOSURE. Supporting Southeastern Climbers Coalition efforts to address recreation impacts.
5. The Flatirons, CO. POSSIBLE RESTRICTIONS/CLOSURES. Working closely with Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks Department to identify reasonable fixed anchor policy and bouldering access.
6. Skytop Cliff, the Gunks, NY. CLOSED. Working with landowner and the Mohonk Preserve to resolve liability issues.
7. Red River Gorge, KY. POSSIBLE CLOSURES. Working closely with the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition to address cultural and natural resource impact issues.
8. Red Rocks, NV. POSSIBLE FIXED ANCHOR BAN AND ENCHROACHMENT OF PRIVATE DEVELOPMENT. Working in Washington D.C. to develop a reasonable BLM fixed anchor policy, and advocacy at the county level to oppose private housing development.
9. Twin Sisters, City of Rocks National Reserve, ID. CLOSED. Working to restore access through legal, political, and administrative channels.
10. Volcanic Tableland, CA. POSSIBLE CLOSURES/RESTRICTIONS. Working closely with the BLM to address camping, trails, and archeological site protection at this popular bouldering area.

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C. Access Fund Receives the "Alaska Excellence Award"
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The Access Fund received the "Alaska Excellence Award" in December for its contribution of $5480 towards the Clean Mountain Can Project on Denali. The award recognizes the people and programs that are the best examples of leadership, stewardship, and innovation in the fields of natural and cultural resources, conservation and education.

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D. Climbing Access Threatened at Mt. Rose Natural Area, NJ
Report submitted by John Anderson, Access Fund Regional Coordinator
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The Mount Rose Natural Area, 418 feet above sea level, is a unique undisturbed parcel of natural area found in Mercer County, N.J. Open space such as that found on the Princeton Ridge is used for hiking, walking, bird watching, and bouldering. The site harbors endangered species of NJ Plants and wildlife.

Mt. Rose Natural Area is listed in the 1991 Governors Council on New Jersey Outdoors‚ as a section of New Jersey's natural lands that provides environmental and scenic preservation, open space and historic preservation and passive recreation provision."

Three large basalt boulder fields allow over 112 separate boulder problems. Bouldering is a type of rock-climbing that occurs on boulders often no more then 20 feet off the ground where one uses psychological abilities and techniques to climb. Bouldering has occurred on site since the early 1950's.

Climbing access to the Princeton Ridge Boulders may be lost forever if action is not taken. To have the area protected from being rezoned to high-density housing and allow the permanent protection of the boulder fields, e-mail Mr. Adam Zelner in the New Jersey State Office of Smart Growth (azellner@DCA.state.nj.us) and Mr. Edward Fox at the State of New Jersey Planning Commission (efox@dca.state.nj.us).

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E. Save The Ridge
Report submitted by Myriam Bouchard
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The Shawangunk Ridge is a national treasure, designated as "One of Earth's Last Great Places" by The Nature Conservancy. Now the crucial segment that connects Minnewaska state lands to the north with Sam's Point Preserve to the south is threatened by proposed development. Because it remains undeveloped, this majestic ridge supports a diversity of rare plants and animals, and is the central feature of Ulster County's tourist economy. Its view shed stretches for hundreds of square miles. Exploitation of its fragile terrain would irreversibly destroy a precious natural resource.
We urge that all necessary steps be taken to avert development on the Shawangunk Ridge. For more information, visit www.savetheridge.com

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F. Access Fund to launch Membership Incentive Program
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If you're a member, you'll notice exciting new benefits in 2003 when you join or renew at a $50.00 minimum. As part of the new incentive program, Membership Cards will be introduced and will include discounts on orders from Mountain Tools and Falcon Guides.

As a member contributing above the basic donation level, here's what you can look forward to in 2003:
Level Benefit in addition to Membership Card
$50 - Access Fund T-shirt
$100 - T-shirt & 1yr subscription to Outside Magazine
$250 - T-shirt & Black Diamond Moonlight headlamp with AF logo
$500 - T-shirt & North Face Redpoint jacket with AF logo
$1000+ - T-shirt & 60m Maxim "Dry" rope
Stay tuned for more information about these exciting new benefits!

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G. Climbing Magazine Featured Partner
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When eckto-plasma ghosts and ghouls invaded New York City, who did Americans call upon to save the day? The Ghostbusters. When money-hungry developers and strong-arming bureaucrats try and broom climbers from cragging areas, who do climbers call? The Access Fund.

Climbing Magazine is proud to sponsor the Access Fund in its fight to preserve and protect the interests of climbers across the nation. From Joshua Tree, California, to Rumney, New Hampshire, no other organization has done more to ensure continued climbers' rights than the Access Fund. If you're not a member, join now. If you are a member, make sure every climber you know joins as well.

We are taking our commitment to the next level with an exclusive offer to fellow members. We'll donate $10 on behalf of every member who pays for a two-year subscription to Climbing and $5 for every paid one-year subscription. Link to the special Access Fund offer at http://www.accessfund.org/partners/partners_comm.html

Jonathan Thesenga
Climbing Magazine Editor

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H. Give the Gift of Climbing
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Now is the time to help the Access Fund plan for your grandchildren's climbing future. The Access Fund has all the resources to make planned giving easy.
Give a planned gift; it is the best way to leave an enduring legacy for climbing.

* Stock
* Bequest
* Charitable Gift Annuity
* Pooled Income Fund
* Charitable Remainder Annuity Trust
* Charitable Remainder Unitrust
* Lead Trusts
* Name The Access Fund as a beneficiary in your life insurance policy or retirement plan

If your gift is $10,000 or more, you may designate it for one of the following categories: Acquisitions, Advocacy & Activism, Membership, Conservation, Adopt-a-Crag, Education, Climbing Preservation Grants or Unrestricted.
For more information on the Access Fund's planned giving program, contact Heather Clark, development director, 303-545-6772 x.100 or heather@accessfund.org.

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I. Vertical Times Newsletter Electrified!
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The Vertical Times newsletter, the Access Fund's bimonthly publication, provides up-to-date news on policy, area reports, events, action alerts, grants, and more. It is a benefit to members and non-members alike (if you are not a member, please join at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php). Indeed it is a benefit to the entire climbing community. By offering this unique publication electronically, the Access Fund will decrease printing and mailing costs and allocate more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. If you choose to take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, please email your name/address to cindy@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, over 200 members have requested not to receive their print copy of Vertical Times (a savings to the Access Fund of $600 per year to be utilized in protecting YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE).
To view back issues of Vertical Times, visit http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html

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J. Job Announcement: Grassroots Coordinator
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The Access Fund seeks a person with strong presentation and communication skills, and community/grassroots climbing activism experience. An active climber, self-starting individual, adept at multi-tasking is preferred. Must enjoy challenges and working for a small team. Candidates should possess a diverse climbing background, be energetic, well organized and able to work closely with fellow staff and the grassroots activists and organizations they support.

This is a full-time position with good benefits and an exciting, supportive work environment. Salary range: $27,000-33,000 with two weeks paid vacation, health, and retirement benefits. Position based in Boulder, Colorado. To be filled March 2003. Deadline for applications: February 21, 2003.

Send query or resume with cover letter to: Shawn Tierney, Access and Acquisitions Director. The Access Fund, PO Box 17010, Boulder, CO 80308, 303-545-6772 x 105 or shawn@accessfund.org

www.accessfund.org/