AF E-News #29
March 2003
The Access Fund
your climbing future
http://www.accessfund.org/

E-News Online



IN THIS ISSUE:

1. Access Fund Land Donation Helps Create Natural Area at Quartz Mountain
2. Access Fund website features Ambassadors & RockStars
3. The Access Fund Announces Top Ten Endangered Climbing Areas Campaign
4. Obed News, TN
5. Mystery Towers For Sale, UT
6. The Boise Climbers Alliance Announces Raptor Closures
7. Featured Corporate Partner -- REI
8. Book Benefit for the Access Fund
9. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
10. A Big Wall of Thanks!



1. Access Fund Land Donation Helps Create Natural Area at Quartz Mountain, Oklahoma--
Second Donation Since 2001 Protects Outstanding Bouldering Area


Earlier this month, the Quartz Mountain Arts & Conference Center and Nature Park announced the newest addition of private land to its recently designated Baldy Point Natural Area in Southwest Oklahoma. The 60-acre property, known for high quality bouldering on excellent granite, was purchased by the Access Fund and donated to the State of Oklahoma for preservation and management.

This is the latest in a series of land transfers managed by the Access Fund. "Our goal is to put climbing resources such as Baldy Point into safe hands," said Shawn Tierney, director of acquisitions for the Access Fund. "We want to ensure that these pristine areas will never be commercially developed, and will always be accessible to climbers."

The Baldy Point donation is one of several long-term projects being championed by the Access Fund. These acquisitions typically take years of planning and negations with landowners, the Park Service, and local volunteers. "This is the final piece of a four-year effort," noted Tierney. "It would not have been possible without the cooperation of all parties involved, and the dedication of the Access Fund Regional Coordinator, Marion Hutchison."

Prior to the Access Fund's involvement, the Baldy Point park was privately owned by Dr. Suzy Spradlin of Oakland, California, who inherited the land. In 1999 Spradlin began working with the Access Fund to save the pristine area. She sold the first 60-acre parcel of land-known as Baldy Point-to the Access Fund in 2001. The Access Fund in turn transferred the popular rock climbing area to the state of Oklahoma. The latest 60-acre donation significantly increases the quantity of climbing and adds an abundance of quality bouldering in wooded areas.

"This is one of the most magnificent natural areas in Oklahoma," said Steve Kemp, Chief Park Ranger. "We're excited about protecting this valuable resource and providing the public with some very unique outdoor experiences." Terry Mosley, Executive Director of the facility, added his thanks to the Access Fund and the original landowner. "We're certainly very appreciative of the contributions made by the Access Fund and Dr. Spradlin to the future of this park," he remarked. "Thanks to their generosity and vision, many new recreational and educational opportunities will be available for our guests."


2. Access Fund website features Ambassadors & RockStars

The Access Fund is proud to present the Athlete Ambassador Team and RockStars on its website, http://www.accessfund.org/ambassadors/. The Athlete Ambassadors and RockStars are professional climbers who publicly represent the Access Fund and impart its mission of keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment. The Team page will feature the names of Athlete Ambassadors and RockStars, with links to each climber's photo, biography, list of sponsors, and testimonial heralding why he or she supports the Access Fund.

Athlete Ambassadors include: Conrad Anker, Elaina Arenz-Smith, Tommy Caldwell, Malcolm Daly, Jim Donini, Hans Florine, Charlotte Fox, Lynn Hill, Randy Leavitt, Mike Libecki, Scott Milton, Jared Ogden, Timmy O'Neil, Lisa Rands, Beth Rodden, Kurt Smith, Jack Tackle, Pete Takeda, Robbie Williams, and Jonny Woodward. The RockStars contingent is comprised of: Megan Emmons, Emily Harrington, and Adam Stack. Each of these climbers has demonstrated a willingness to endorse the Access Fund at their slide shows and events, and has expressed a commitment to preserving America's diverse climbing resources.

"The Access Fund is delighted to feature our dedicated team members on our website,” said Heather Clark, Access Fund development director. “These climbers are interested in improving and maintaining climbing access, and educating others on the importance of conservation and preservation."

Each month, the Access Fund will feature a new team member on the main page, while consistently updating Ambassadors' information, sponsors, etc. In the near future, the climbers' sponsors will link the Access Fund Athlete Ambassador Team page from their websites.


3. The Access Fund Announces Top Ten Endangered Climbing Areas Campaign

The Access Fund in partnership with Mountain Gear has launched the Top Ten Endangered Climbing Areas Campaign, an initiative designed to educate the climbing community on the most threatened climbing areas nationwide. The Access Fund hopes to raise awareness about each area by educating climbers about the area's history along with what led to climbing closures or restrictions there. Involvement from the local climbing community and discussions with land owners/agencies regarding management or solutions are critical to the success of this campaign. According to Shawn Tierney, Access Fund access and acquisitions director, "The Access Fund launched the top ten endangered campaign to illuminate the problems facing these important climbing areas, and to highlight ten areas most in need of immediate attention. Many of these problems could be remedied by increased climber involvement and stewardship.

The top ten list for 2003 includes the following areas: Cave Rock, NV; Hueco Tanks State Historic Site, TX; Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT; Little River Canyon, AL; The Flatirons, CO; Skytop Cliff, the Gunks, NY; Red River Gorge, KY; Red Rocks, NV; Twin Sisters, City of Rocks National Reserve, ID and Volcanic Tableland, CA. For more information, visit http://www.accessfund.org/programs/programs_news_endang-2-03.html.


4. Obed News
(Submitted by Frank Harvey, Access Fund regional coordinator)



a. Big South Fork General Management Plan -- The new draft management plan for the Big South Fork (BSF), can be accessed and reviewed at http://www.nps.gov/biso/index.htm. The draft acknowledges climbing as a legitimate user activity. The current ban on establishment of bolted routes will continue until the climbing management plan for the BSF is established. Comment deadline is May 15th. Questions should be addressed to Chris Stubbs at 423-569-2404 ext. 231. Email comments to biso_superintendent@nps.gov or by mail to Superintendent, Big South Fork NRRA, 4564 Leatherwood Road, Oneida, TN 37841.
b. Obed workday -- May 17 is the national river clean-up day.
c) Obed Rebolting -- Kris Stoehr (Obed unit manager) is ready to help us with an application for rebolting of Obed routes. The Southeastern Climbers Coalition will fund this work, yet input is needed regarding names and details of what needs to be rebolted. Email this information to faharvey2@earthlink.net.


5. Mystery Towers For Sale, Utah

SITLA (Utah’s State Institutional Trust Lands Administration) is taking bids on a state parcel that contains the dramatic Mystery Towers near the Fisher Towers. While the Titan and other main Fisher Towers would not be affected by this sale, the Mystery Towers (Gothic Nightmare, The Citadel and Doric Column) could be sold to a private party, thus restricting access. The Nature Conservancy (TNC) has made a bid on the property and needs the support of the climbing community to help ensure continued access. The best way to ensure that existing trust lands in this area are protected and climbing access maintained is to support TNC’s efforts. Act now to help preserve climbing access to the mystery towers!

Please write letters of support urging SITLA to award the sale of the Onion Hill parcel to The Nature Conservancy. Make sure to note the following points:
-State your interest in the area, and note the outstanding climbing opportunities at the Mystery Towers
-Urge SITLA to award the sale of the Onion Hill parcel to TNC for conservation values and to protect public access to this natural treasure
-Maintaining public access to public lands in Utah will preserve its tourist economy

WRITE: (Deadline April 18, 2003)
Kim Christy, Assistant Director - Surface
SITLA, 675 East 500 S., Suite 500
Salt Lake City, Utah 84102
Tel. -- 801-538-5100
Fax – 801-355-0922
Email – kimchristy@utah.gov
For more information, call Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith
at 435-259-0693 or email jason@accessfund.org.


6. The Boise Climbers Alliance Announces Raptor Closures

The Boise Climbers Alliance, with the support of the Idaho Department of Fish and Game, has once again posted buffer-zone signs at the Black Cliffs, in historical nesting areas for raptors, including prairie falcons and golden eagles. The BCA asks that climbers voluntarily avoid routes in the vicinity of the buffer-zone while the signs are posted. There are also signs at the Black Cliffs trailheads explaining the raptor-protection plan.
For more information visit http://boiseclimbs.com.


7. Featured Corporate Partner -- REI

"REI is a proud and long-time supporter of the Access Fund because of the balanced, strategic and collaborative approach they take," said Dennis Madsen, president and CEO. "Combining stewardship and conservation programs along with their efforts to promote climbing prove beneficial for all of us who enjoy outdoor recreation."


8. Access Fund Teams Up with Book Publisher

Access Fund announces a joint promotion of Access Fund member Bruce Genereaux' new book, Beyond the Comfort Zone - Confessions of an Extreme Sports Junkie. This book, endorsed by Royal Robbins and John Long gives both the armchair mountaineers and climbing aficionados a well-crafted look at our motivation to climb and take risks.

"A remarkable and engrossing mixture of high adventure and thoughtful reflection." - Royal Robbins

Buy the book at www.classfivepress.com/orders/ and simply enter the code AFBTZ with your order. You will be billed $20 for each book (shipping included), and the Access Fund will receive $3 of the sale.


9. Vertical Times Newsletter Online

The Vertical Times newsletter, the Access Fund's bimonthly publication, provides up-to-date news on policy, area reports, events, action alerts, grants, and more. It is a benefit to members and non-members alike (if you are not a member, please join at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php), indeed it is a benefit to the entire climbing community. By offering this unique publication electronically, the Access Fund will decrease printing and mailing costs to allocate more funds in protecting YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. If you choose to take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, please email your name/address to cindy@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.

Presently, over 300 members have requested not to receive their print copy of Vertical Times (a savings to the Access Fund of $900 per year to be utilized in protecting YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE).
To view issues of Vertical Times, including the April edition, visit http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html


10. A Big Wall of Thanks!

The Access Fund thanks the following individuals for volunteering time at our national headquarters. Kreighton Bieger, Marina Contro, David Farkas, Fran Fierst, James Fulton, Joe Kelly, Jon Sargent, Christ Tschinkel, and Jarrod Weaton.


VIRTUAL TIMES POLICIES:
1. The Access Fund office in Boulder is the only source of outgoing messages to the lists.
2. The AF will not sell or give away email addresses of V-Times subscribers.
3. V-Times is an announcement-only e-mail list; therefore, you cannot reply to any of the list members.
4. All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail sent.
Virtual Times Policies:

www.accessfund.org/