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AF E-News #29
March 2003
The Access Fund
your climbing future
http://www.accessfund.org/ E-News Online
IN THIS ISSUE:
1. Access Fund Land Donation Helps Create
Natural Area at Quartz Mountain
2. Access Fund website features Ambassadors & RockStars
3. The Access Fund Announces Top Ten Endangered Climbing Areas Campaign
4. Obed News, TN
5. Mystery Towers For Sale, UT
6. The Boise Climbers Alliance Announces Raptor Closures
7. Featured Corporate Partner -- REI
8. Book Benefit for the Access Fund
9. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
10. A Big Wall of Thanks!
1. Access Fund Land Donation Helps Create Natural
Area at Quartz Mountain, Oklahoma--
Second Donation Since 2001 Protects Outstanding Bouldering Area
Earlier this month, the Quartz Mountain Arts & Conference Center
and Nature Park announced the newest addition of private land to its
recently designated Baldy Point Natural Area in Southwest Oklahoma.
The 60-acre property, known for high quality bouldering on excellent
granite, was purchased by the Access Fund and donated to the State
of Oklahoma for preservation and management.
This is the latest in a series of land transfers managed by the Access
Fund. "Our goal is to put climbing resources such as Baldy Point
into safe hands," said Shawn Tierney, director of acquisitions
for the Access Fund. "We want to ensure that these pristine areas
will never be commercially developed, and will always be accessible
to climbers."
The Baldy Point donation is one of several long-term projects being
championed by the Access Fund. These acquisitions typically take years
of planning and negations with landowners, the Park Service, and local
volunteers. "This is the final piece of a four-year effort,"
noted Tierney. "It would not have been possible without the cooperation
of all parties involved, and the dedication of the Access Fund Regional
Coordinator, Marion Hutchison."
Prior to the Access Fund's involvement, the Baldy Point park was privately
owned by Dr. Suzy Spradlin of Oakland, California, who inherited the
land. In 1999 Spradlin began working with the Access Fund to save
the pristine area. She sold the first 60-acre parcel of land-known
as Baldy Point-to the Access Fund in 2001. The Access Fund in turn
transferred the popular rock climbing area to the state of Oklahoma.
The latest 60-acre donation significantly increases the quantity of
climbing and adds an abundance of quality bouldering in wooded areas.
"This is one of the most magnificent natural areas in Oklahoma,"
said Steve Kemp, Chief Park Ranger. "We're excited about protecting
this valuable resource and providing the public with some very unique
outdoor experiences." Terry Mosley, Executive Director of the
facility, added his thanks to the Access Fund and the original landowner.
"We're certainly very appreciative of the contributions made
by the Access Fund and Dr. Spradlin to the future of this park,"
he remarked. "Thanks to their generosity and vision, many new
recreational and educational opportunities will be available for our
guests."
2. Access Fund website features Ambassadors
& RockStars
The Access Fund is proud to present the Athlete Ambassador Team and
RockStars on its website, http://www.accessfund.org/ambassadors/.
The Athlete Ambassadors and RockStars are professional climbers who
publicly represent the Access Fund and impart its mission of keeping
climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment. The Team
page will feature the names of Athlete Ambassadors and RockStars,
with links to each climber's photo, biography, list of sponsors, and
testimonial heralding why he or she supports the Access Fund.
Athlete Ambassadors include: Conrad Anker, Elaina Arenz-Smith, Tommy
Caldwell, Malcolm Daly, Jim Donini, Hans Florine, Charlotte Fox, Lynn
Hill, Randy Leavitt, Mike Libecki, Scott Milton, Jared Ogden, Timmy
O'Neil, Lisa Rands, Beth Rodden, Kurt Smith, Jack Tackle, Pete Takeda,
Robbie Williams, and Jonny Woodward. The RockStars contingent is comprised
of: Megan Emmons, Emily Harrington, and Adam Stack. Each of these
climbers has demonstrated a willingness to endorse the Access Fund
at their slide shows and events, and has expressed a commitment to
preserving America's diverse climbing resources.
"The Access Fund is delighted to feature our dedicated team members
on our website, said Heather Clark, Access Fund development
director. These climbers are interested in improving and maintaining
climbing access, and educating others on the importance of conservation
and preservation."
Each month, the Access Fund will feature a new team member on the
main page, while consistently updating Ambassadors' information, sponsors,
etc. In the near future, the climbers' sponsors will link the Access
Fund Athlete Ambassador Team page from their websites.
3. The Access Fund Announces Top Ten Endangered
Climbing Areas Campaign
The Access Fund in partnership with Mountain Gear has launched the
Top Ten Endangered Climbing Areas Campaign, an initiative designed
to educate the climbing community on the most threatened climbing
areas nationwide. The Access Fund hopes to raise awareness about each
area by educating climbers about the area's history along with what
led to climbing closures or restrictions there. Involvement from the
local climbing community and discussions with land owners/agencies
regarding management or solutions are critical to the success of this
campaign. According to Shawn Tierney, Access Fund access and acquisitions
director, "The Access Fund launched the top ten endangered campaign
to illuminate the problems facing these important climbing areas,
and to highlight ten areas most in need of immediate attention. Many
of these problems could be remedied by increased climber involvement
and stewardship.
The top ten list for 2003 includes the following areas: Cave Rock,
NV; Hueco Tanks State Historic Site, TX; Little Cottonwood Canyon,
UT; Little River Canyon, AL; The Flatirons, CO; Skytop Cliff, the
Gunks, NY; Red River Gorge, KY; Red Rocks, NV; Twin Sisters, City
of Rocks National Reserve, ID and Volcanic Tableland, CA. For more
information, visit http://www.accessfund.org/programs/programs_news_endang-2-03.html.
4. Obed News
(Submitted by Frank Harvey, Access Fund regional coordinator)
a. Big South Fork General Management Plan -- The new draft management
plan for the Big South Fork (BSF), can be accessed and reviewed at
http://www.nps.gov/biso/index.htm. The draft acknowledges climbing
as a legitimate user activity. The current ban on establishment of
bolted routes will continue until the climbing management plan for
the BSF is established. Comment deadline is May 15th. Questions should
be addressed to Chris Stubbs at 423-569-2404 ext. 231. Email comments
to biso_superintendent@nps.gov or by mail to Superintendent, Big South
Fork NRRA, 4564 Leatherwood Road, Oneida, TN 37841.
b. Obed workday -- May 17 is the national river clean-up day.
c) Obed Rebolting -- Kris Stoehr (Obed unit manager) is ready to help
us with an application for rebolting of Obed routes. The Southeastern
Climbers Coalition will fund this work, yet input is needed regarding
names and details of what needs to be rebolted. Email this information
to faharvey2@earthlink.net.
5. Mystery Towers For Sale, Utah
SITLA (Utahs State Institutional Trust Lands Administration)
is taking bids on a state parcel that contains the dramatic Mystery
Towers near the Fisher Towers. While the Titan and other main Fisher
Towers would not be affected by this sale, the Mystery Towers (Gothic
Nightmare, The Citadel and Doric Column) could be sold to a private
party, thus restricting access. The Nature Conservancy (TNC) has made
a bid on the property and needs the support of the climbing community
to help ensure continued access. The best way to ensure that existing
trust lands in this area are protected and climbing access maintained
is to support TNCs efforts. Act now to help preserve climbing
access to the mystery towers!
Please write letters of support urging SITLA to award the sale of
the Onion Hill parcel to The Nature Conservancy. Make sure to note
the following points:
-State your interest in the area, and note the outstanding climbing
opportunities at the Mystery Towers
-Urge SITLA to award the sale of the Onion Hill parcel to TNC for
conservation values and to protect public access to this natural treasure
-Maintaining public access to public lands in Utah will preserve its
tourist economy
WRITE: (Deadline April 18, 2003)
Kim Christy, Assistant Director - Surface
SITLA, 675 East 500 S., Suite 500
Salt Lake City, Utah 84102
Tel. -- 801-538-5100
Fax 801-355-0922
Email kimchristy@utah.gov
For more information, call Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith
at 435-259-0693 or email jason@accessfund.org.
6. The Boise Climbers Alliance Announces Raptor
Closures
The Boise Climbers Alliance, with the support of the Idaho Department
of Fish and Game, has once again posted buffer-zone signs at the Black
Cliffs, in historical nesting areas for raptors, including prairie
falcons and golden eagles. The BCA asks that climbers voluntarily
avoid routes in the vicinity of the buffer-zone while the signs are
posted. There are also signs at the Black Cliffs trailheads explaining
the raptor-protection plan.
For more information visit http://boiseclimbs.com.
7. Featured Corporate Partner -- REI
"REI is a proud and long-time supporter of the Access Fund because
of the balanced, strategic and collaborative approach they take,"
said Dennis Madsen, president and CEO. "Combining stewardship
and conservation programs along with their efforts to promote climbing
prove beneficial for all of us who enjoy outdoor recreation."
8. Access Fund Teams Up with Book Publisher
Access Fund announces a joint promotion of Access Fund member Bruce
Genereaux' new book, Beyond the Comfort Zone - Confessions of an Extreme
Sports Junkie. This book, endorsed by Royal Robbins and John Long
gives both the armchair mountaineers and climbing aficionados a well-crafted
look at our motivation to climb and take risks.
"A remarkable and engrossing mixture of high adventure and thoughtful
reflection." - Royal Robbins
Buy the book at www.classfivepress.com/orders/ and simply enter the
code AFBTZ with your order. You will be billed $20 for each book (shipping
included), and the Access Fund will receive $3 of the sale.
9. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
The Vertical Times newsletter, the Access Fund's bimonthly publication,
provides up-to-date news on policy, area reports, events, action alerts,
grants, and more. It is a benefit to members and non-members alike
(if you are not a member, please join at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php),
indeed it is a benefit to the entire climbing community. By offering
this unique publication electronically, the Access Fund will decrease
printing and mailing costs to allocate more funds in protecting YOUR
CLIMBING FUTURE. If you choose to take part in this effort, and cease
shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, please email your name/address
to cindy@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as
the subject.
Presently, over 300 members have requested not to receive their print
copy of Vertical Times (a savings to the Access Fund of $900 per year
to be utilized in protecting YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE).
To view issues of Vertical Times, including the April edition, visit
http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html
10. A Big Wall of Thanks!
The Access Fund thanks the following individuals for volunteering
time at our national headquarters. Kreighton Bieger, Marina Contro,
David Farkas, Fran Fierst, James Fulton, Joe Kelly, Jon Sargent, Christ
Tschinkel, and Jarrod Weaton.
VIRTUAL TIMES POLICIES:
1. The Access Fund office in Boulder is the only source of outgoing
messages to the lists.
2. The AF will not sell or give away email addresses of V-Times subscribers.
3. V-Times is an announcement-only e-mail list; therefore, you cannot
reply to any of the list members.
4. All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail sent.
Virtual Times Policies:
www.accessfund.org/
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