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ACCESS FUND E-NEWS #32
June 2003
The Access Fund
your climbing future
http://www.accessfund.org/
E-News Online
1. The Access Fund and US
Forest Service Ink Groundbreaking Agreement:
Government-Private Partnership Formalizes Working Relationship to
Promote Responsible Use of Public Lands
The Access Fund and the U.S. Forest Service (USFS) recently announced
a ground-breaking agreement that formalizes a cooperative agreement
to work at the national, regional and local levels on mutually beneficial
programs, projects, training and other recreational activities. The
five-year agreement will see the USFS and Access Fund working together
on programs, projects and activities that leverage both of their charters
and are in the best interests of the public.
“There is a strong need throughout the country to actively promote
public and private partnerships that encourage the responsible use
of public lands,” said Steve Matous, executive director of the
Access Fund. “Today’s agreement solidifies what has been
an informal working arrangement, and creates a watershed for the use
and management of public lands across America.”
The heart of the agreement is the commitment by the Forest Service
to encourage its local officials to participate with Access Fund staff
and representatives in the development of mutually beneficial work
projects and educational activities. In return, the Access Fund will
support educational activities, develop and maintain a nationwide
communication network, provide technical assistance to land managers
and facilitate understanding and communications between climbers and
public agencies.
“Both the Forest Service and the Access Fund share the common
interest of providing information to the public on such subjects as
conservation, recreation and natural resource activities as they relate
to climbing,” said David Holland, director, Recreation, Heritage
and Wilderness Resources for the United States Forest Service. “We’re
looking forward to working with the Access Fund to identify appropriate
partnership opportunities and to jointly pursue them on a national
basis.”
2. Castle Rocks Finally Opens
to Climbing
Over Memorial Day weekend, Castle Rock Ranch opened for public use
after 5 years of effort. The 400-foot high pinnacles and monoliths
attracted climbers for years but were privately owned and off-limits
until recently. In 1999 the Conservation Fund and the Access Fund
teamed up to buy the ranch, and subsequently the Castle Rock Ranch
Acquisition Act of 2000 authorized the National Park Service (NPS)
to purchase the 1,240-acre ranch with the understanding that the area
would be turned into a state park and opened for public recreation,
specifically climbing. The Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation
(IDPR), the same agency that currently manages City of Rocks National
Reserve, will manage the state-owned portion of “Castles”
(BLM and USFS land lies behind the state park).
After time consuming environmental analyses by the NPS, the state
of Idaho began planning for the opening of the park in late 2002.
In January, Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith facilitated a
climbing management plan workshop at Castles with participants from
the American Alpine Club, the Boise Climbers’ Alliance and individual
climbers from Salt Lake City, Pocatello, Ketchum, Boise, and Jackson.
Part of the climbing management plan for Castles included a unique
provision for climbers to enter the park before the general public,
and following an intensive orientation, establish new routes using
fixed anchors in “Zone One,” which had been cleared by IDPR
after surveying for sensitive natural and cultural resources. The
thought behind this “pre-opening” was to prevent a rush
on opening day for the many new routes available at Castles, but to
also prevent any possible conflicts with other user groups once the
park opened.
Over 50 new routes were established on opening day, and a host of
happy climbers raved about the climbing at Castles, which is comparable
to the neighboring City of Rocks. Additional zones may open up to
new route development as early as this summer, but route developers
must attend a short education and orientation program at the contact
center and possess a valid permit to place fixed anchors.
Castle Rocks State Park is open as a day-use facility between the
hours of 8 a.m. and 10 p.m. from Memorial Day weekend to Labor Day,
and between the hours of 8 a.m. and 10 p.m. on Friday-Sunday during
the months of September, October, April, and May. All recreation users
must pay a motor vehicle entrance fee or exhibit an annual pass or
Idaho VIP pass. When the 25 parking facilities are maximized, additional
vehicles will be excluded until space is available. Users entering
on bike, horse or foot will be permitted without charge or concern
for parking capacity up to a total occupancy of 75 people at any given
time. For more information, contact the City of Rocks Visitor Center
at 208-824-5519.
3. News from the New River
Gorge
Climbing Management Plan
The Draft Climbing Management Plan for New River Gorge National River
is now available for public review and comment. For a copy, see http://www.nps.gov/neri/pdf/neri_draftcmp.pdf.
Comments must be postmarked by June 30, 2003 and can be submitted
to Gary Hartley Chief Ranger, New River Gorge National River P.O.
Box 246 Glen Jean, WV 25846, or via email to: neri_cmp@nps.gov.
The National Park Service intends that the CMP will meet the following
objectives: (1) Protect natural and cultural resources within the
park, and the scenic integrity of the area; (2) Provide the opportunity
for climbing related recreation; (3) Maximize input from public and
climbing community; (4) Determine appropriate commercial use as related
to climbing; and (5) Develop an effective interpretive and educational
program to enhance compliance.
For the Access Fund’s comments on the New River Gorge Draft CMP,
see
http://www.accessfund.org/whoweare/COMMENTS/NRG-CMP.htm
The New Climbers Rendezvous
The New Climbers Rendezvous was held on May 16-17 at the New River
Gorge. Despite a torrential rainstorm, locals still managed to put
on a great event offering a wide selection of clinics and classes,
free camping, and slack line, dyno, pull-up, bouldering and climbing
comps. Saturday night saw a short film contest, a raffle (which helped
raise over $1800 for the New River Alliance of Climbers), free food,
and a dance party with music by spinmeisters Jason Babkirk, Andy Marstiller
and Matt Campbell. The following morning, Trango USA and Stonewear
Designs treated aching heads to coffee and a free pancake breakfast.
4. CRAG-VT Acquires Lower
West Bolton Cliffs
CRAG-VT (Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont) completed the
donation of the Lower West in late May. CRAG-VT received the generous
donation of the 5+-acre parcel from Mr. Patrick Smith, who purchased
the land in 2000. The transfer of the cliff to CRAG-VT will ensure
access to climbing in perpetuity. CRAG-VT is a 501(c) 3 not-for-profit
dedicated to promoting access and conservation of Vermont's climbing
resources. CRAG-VT is one of only a few climbing organizations in
the U.S. to hold title to property used for rock climbing. For more
information visit www.cragvt.org.
5. Access Fund Hosts National
Climber Activists Summit -- Climbers to Converge on Estes Park, CO
this September
The Access Fund will host a national conference for climber-activists
from September 11-14, 2003 at the Estes Park Center in Estes Park,
Colorado. The event will unite the organization’s national network
of regional coordinators with activists from local climber organizations
(LCOs) for several days of training, workshops and discussion. Over
100 attendees have been invited to discuss strategies for preserving
access, conserving the climbing environment and promoting effective
outreach at the grassroots level.
The Summit underscores the Access Fund’s commitment to preserving
access by investing in the support, training and promotion of local
grassroots activism. The event also provides an excellent forum for
volunteer activists from around the country to share the ideas, experience,
resources and knowledge necessary to preserve climbing access and
protect the natural environment. This will be the fourth such event
held by the Access Fund in its 13-year history.
“With so many dedicated volunteers and seasoned activists gathering
in one place, the Summit will be a remarkable learning experience,”
said Shawn Tierney, Access Fund access and acquisitions director.
“I expect all will come away from the weekend with a greater
understanding of the crucial role grassroots activism plays in preserving
access.”
6. Job Announcements:
DIRECTOR OF MAJOR GIFTS
National climber advocacy group dedicated to keeping climbing areas
open and conserving the climbing environment seeks senior-level fundraiser
and administrator with extensive experience in donor cultivation,
major gift solicitation and working with foundations. Position responsible
for program oversight, budget development and tracking, marketing,
and outreach. Salary is dependent on experience. Health, vacation
and retirement benefits are included. Position is based in Boulder,
Colorado. Climbing background is preferred. Send resume and cover
letter via e-mail to steve@accessfund.org
or by mail to: Executive Director, The Access Fund, PO Box 17010,
Boulder, CO, 80308.
GRASSROOTS COORDINATOR
The Access Fund has an opening for a person with strong presentation
and communication skills, community/grassroots climbing activism experience.
The successful candidate will be: a climber, self-starting, adept
at multi-tasking, enjoys challenges and a small work team. Candidates
should possess a diverse climbing background and be energetic, well
organized and able to work closely with fellow staff and the grassroots
activists and organizations they are supporting.
This is a full-time position with good benefits and an exciting, supportive
work environment. Salary range: $27,000-33,000. Two weeks paid vacation,
health and retirement benefits. Position based in Boulder, Colorado.
To be filled July 2003. Deadline for applications: June 30, 2003.
Send resume and cover letter via email to shawn@accessfund.org
or by mail to: Shawn Tierney, Access and Acquisitions Director, The
Access Fund, PO Box 17010, Boulder, CO 80308.
7. Featured Corporate Partner
– Rock and Ice Magazine
Rock & Ice Magazine is a Diamond level corporate sponsor of the
Access Fund and has been since 1993.
"Supporting the Access Fund is a top priority for Rock and Ice
magazine. The Access Fund is THE climbers voice, speaking for all
of us in key political circles, working to keep our crags open for
today -- and tomorrow's -- climbers."
Duane Raleigh
Editor in chief and publisher
8. Journals and Memorabilia
The Access Fund has the following journals for sale. Email to inquire
about availability or to make an offer.
High 118, 153, 156, 160-162, 164, 166, 179, 180, 183, 191, 194
Climbing Magazine - #114-160 (June/July 1989- May 1996); Missing #119
Rock & Ice #13, 19-30, 35, 37, 40-42, 54, 60 through 90’s
Mazama December 1940-1988 (48 total)
American Alpine News
Membership Handbook – 1984, 1987, 1988
Issues – 1985-1988 (vol. 1-4); 1989 (spring and fall); 1999 (vol.
8)
Off Belay - Jan 1972-Feb. 1981
Alpine Journal - 1969-1989
Crags - #11-15
La Montagne - #35-38
La Montagne & Alpinisme - #1-4
Adirondack Alpine Journal - #1 - #8 (Dec ’83 – April 86)
Leeds University Union – Climbing Club Journal 1974
Rock: Australia’s Climbing Magazine 1987
Flash – Vol. 1 #’s 1-4
Connection – Vol. 1 (2-4); Vol. 2 (1-3)
Sport Climbing – Vol. 2 (#4); Vol. 3 (#1-3)
The Climbing Art- #25
Summit – Nov. 1965, June 1978, Jan. 1989, May 1989, Winter 1991
Crags – 18, 19, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 29
Mountain Magazine – 40, 76, 77
Mountain Gazzette – 63
Descent – 1972, 1990
9. Access Fund Membership
Incentive Program (MIP)
Individuals who join the Access Fund or renew their membership in
2003 at the minimum level of $50 will reap the following benefits:
MIP Levels and Benefits:
$50 - Access Fund T-shirt
$100 - T-shirt & 1yr subscription to Outside Magazine
$250 - T-shirt & Black Diamond Moonlight headlamp with AF logo
$500 - T-shirt & North Face Redpoint jacket with AF logo
$1000+ - T-shirt & 60m Maxim "Dry" rope
Join/renew your Access Fund membership or find out more about the
MIP at
https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php
10. Vertical Times Newsletter
Online
The Vertical Times newsletter, the Access Fund's bimonthly publication,
provides up-to-date news on policy, area reports, events, action alerts,
grants, and more. It is a benefit to members and non-members alike
(if you are not a member, please join at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php).
Indeed, it is a benefit to the entire climbing community. By offering
this unique publication electronically, the Access Fund will decrease
printing and mailing costs and allocate more funds to protect YOUR
CLIMBING FUTURE. If you choose to take part in this effort, and cease
shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, email your name and address
to cindy@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as
the subject.
Presently, over 400 members have requested not to receive their print
copy of Vertical Times (a savings to the Access Fund of $1200 per
year to be utilized in protecting YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE).
To view current and back issues of Vertical Times, visit
http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html.
AF E-NEWS POLICIES:
1. The Access Fund office in Boulder is the only source of outgoing
messages to the lists.
2. The AF will not sell or give away email addresses of AF E-News
subscribers.
3. AF E-News is an announcement-only e-mail list; therefore, you
cannot reply to any of the list members.
4. All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail
sent.
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