AF E-News #34 -
August 2003
The Access Fund
your climbing future
http://www.accessfund.org/
E-News Online
IN THIS ISSUE:
1. Adopt-a-Crag Day - September 6!
2. Indian Creek Corridor Plan and EA Comments Due August 28
3. Washington States North Cascades National Park To Develop
A New Climbing Management Plan
4. The Murray Property Project, Kentucky
5. Tommy Caldwell Slide Show Estes Park, CO
6. Thanks For Supporting Access Fund Conservation Grants!
7. Rocky Mountain Field Institute Indian Creek Weekend
8. News from the Flatirons, CO
9. Featured Corporate Partner - Rock and Ice Magazine
10. Journals and Memorabilia
11. Crazy Creek Blowout!
12. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP)
13. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
1. Adopt-a-Crag Day September 6 - There
Is Still Time To Register Your Event!
Adopt-a-Crag Day is about giving back to the climbing
areas we use on a regular basis. From the signs in the parking areas
to the established trails systems to the rocks and boulders where
we devote endless hours, climbers are frequent land-users. Therefore,
it is important that we make an effort to maintain and care for the
land. Register your event ASAP to ensure that you receive Access Fund
support such as Clif Bars, Nalgene bottles, stickers, trash bags,
and posters. For a complete list of events around the country or to
register an event, see http://www.accessfund.org/events/aac_events.php.
2. Indian Creek Corridor Plan - Scoping Comments
Due August 28!
(Report from the Bureau of Land Management
Scoping Newsletter - July 29, 2003)
Indian Creek Corridor Plan: To address impacts
from ORVs, camping, climbing and other recreational activities in
the Indian Creek area, the BLM is developing an Indian Creek Corridor
Plan with the help of the Bear West consulting firm. The BLM now seeks
scoping comments from the public in order to develop the
issues to be analyzed in the plan. Climbers should get involved throughout
the entire planning process to ensure that our voice is heard and
that appropriate issued are addressed.
The Indian Creek corridor, located 50 miles southwest of Moab, Utah
and bordering Canyonlands National Park, is one of the most outstanding
crack climbing areas in the world. Indian Creek has a rich cultural
and historical background and these resources are also included within
the planning area. In addition to its agricultural and cultural resources,
Indian Creek serves as a haven for climbers, hikers, campers, mountain
bikers and horseback riders. It also shelters sensitive natural resources,
such as raptor nesting sites, wildlife corridors and habitat, and
native vegetation. Many of these resources are becoming impacted by
increased use of the area, and many feel that mitigation measures
are needed. Identifying and implementing an appropriate land management
plan that protects Indian Creeks unique resources while accommodating
human use-will be the purpose of the new Indian Creek Corridor
Plan.
The Planning Process: To make the best possible management decisions
for Indian Creek, the BLM will rely on an evaluation tool called an
environmental assessment (EA). The EA process emphasizes public participation,
development of issue-driven alternatives, and evaluation of environmental
impacts. The purpose of the EA is to disclose to the public, and the
BLM, the environmental impacts of any proposed changes to the current
management of Indian Creek use.
The planning process at Indian Creek begins with the identification
of issues through public and agency scoping. The issues
identified through this scoping process will direct the rest of the
planning and analysis. An interdisciplinary team (including an Access
Fund representative) will then be formed to develop a proposed action
and define its purpose and need. After a thorough analysis of the
potential impacts resulting from proposed changes in the current management
of Indian Creek use, a series of alternatives will be developed, including
the proposed or preferred action and a no action
alternative. The BLM will then present these alternatives in a Draft
Environmental Assessment (Draft EA). The public will have an opportunity
to review and comment the Draft EA, all of which will be considered
during the preparation and finalization of the Final Environmental
Assessment (Final EA). The BLM will then use the Final EA for their
decision regarding the proposed management of the Indian Creek Corridor
Plan.
Tentative Project Schedule:
Public Scoping July 29, 2003
End of Scoping August 28, 2003
Draft EA September 2003
Public meetings October 2003
Final EA November 2003
Decision December 2003
The BLM needs to hear from you! Public participation is a key element
of the environmental assessment process, and the climbing community
must be involved to be heard. Please provide your comments on any
issues that you feel are relevant to the management of the Indian
Creek corridor. Bear West will take your email or letters, but all
comments are due Thursday August 28, 2003.
For further information please contact the project consultants at
Bear West - Ralph Becker or Laura Hanson:
Bear West
145 South 400 East
Salt Lake City, Utah 84111
Phone: 801.355.8816
Fax: 801.355.2090
Rbecker@bearwest.com
or
lhanson@bearwest.com
For more information, download the BLM Scoping Newsletter (560K) at
http://www.accessfund.org/pdf/IndianCreekScopeProcess.pdf
3. Washington States North Cascades
National Park To Develop A New Climbing Management Plan
Over the past few years, outstanding new sport
climbing and bouldering areas have been developed north of Seattle
in the Skagit River Gorge between the towns of Newhalem and Diablo.
Route development includes bolted sport climbs and bouldering, both
of which require the cleaning of moss and vegetation. Local climbers
have also been active clearing rock and debris to create trails and
improve landing zones at bouldering areas. A detailed website of one
of the climbing areas has been developed and word has spread quickly
among the Seattle climbing community.
Last year the cleaning of moss and debris at the bouldering area created
some controversy when a NPS ranger found tools cached by the boulderers
and confiscated them. Around that time, the Access Fund met with NPS
officials to start a communication process for local climbers to be
informed about the concerns of park rangers. Also, climbers would
be informed about the degree of acceptable climbing, bouldering and
cleaning. There is great potential for additional climbing areas in
the many front-country areas of the Ross Lake National Recreation
Area (a sub-unit of North Cascades NP), but the NPS asked local climbers
to stop developing both the new bouldering and bolted sport climbing
routes while a climbing management plan (CMP) was being developed
for the area and resource impacts were analyzed. Local climbers agreed
to halt their development of the area while a CMP is developed.
In early July, Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith traveled to
the North Cascades National Park Complex and met NPs officials to
discuss climbing management alternatives for the CMP and perform a
site inspection of the new rock climbing and bouldering areas just
upstream from the town of Newhalem. Keith also met with local climbers
to hear their concerns and comments for managing the area. He was
later accompanied by seven senior level NPs staff - including the
park supervisor, chief ranger, and several lead resource specialists
- into the field to inspect the sport climbing and bouldering areas.
After viewing the climbing and bouldering, park officials expressed
concern about the cleaning of moss and leveling of landing zones.
Nevertheless, they were open to some new route and bouldering development.
The upcoming CMP will likely include a process whereby new sport routes
and bouldering can be developed.
This fall a climbing management scoping letter is planned
to go public. A draft CMP should be released for comment sometime
this winter. If all goes according to plan, new route development
at this excellent area could be authorized by next years climbing
season. To become involved and comment on the upcoming climbing management
plan for the Ross Lake National Recreation Area, write:
Roy Zipp
Natural Resource Specialist
North Cascades National Park
7280 Ranger Station Road
Marblemount, WA 98267
Roy_Zipp@nps.gov
4. The Murray Property Project, Kentucky
(Submitted by Shannon Stuart-Smith, RRGCC Executive Director and Access
Fund Board Member)
The Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition (RRGCC)
is very proud to announce the Murray Property Project and its new
web site dedicated exclusively to the largest direct climbing land
acquisition ever by a local climbing organization. The website address
is http://www.thered.org.
As part of our mission to ensure quality outdoor climbing opportunities
to meet the needs of present and future climbers by protecting, promoting,
and ensuring responsible climbing at the Red, the RRGCC is raising
the money to buy over 700 acres of some of the best climbing land
in the United States, The RRGCC is directly buying this exceptional,
high-quality land as the surest way to protect continued climbing
access and opportunities.
5. Tommy Caldwell Slide Show First
Couple of Rock - Estes Park, CO
Date: Friday, September 12
Time: 8:00 PM
Location: Hyde Chapel, YMCA of the Rockies Estes Park Center, 2515
Tunnel Road, Estes Park, CO
Cost: $5 at the door.
This show is a benefit for the Access Fund and is being held in conjunction
with the organizations national grassroots Activists Summit.
There will also be a raffle, silent auction and membership drive.
Marmot and W.L. Gore & Associates, Inc. will present the premiere
of the lives of Beth and Tommy. This intimate profile, a production
by Corey Rich and Jason Paur, is an inside look of the life and times
of two of the worlds most accomplished rock climbers.
6. Thanks For Supporting Access Fund Conservation
Grants!
A special thank you goes out to all of our members
who contributed to our recent appeal to raise funds for Access Fund
Climbing Preservation Grants. As of August 6, 2003, 113 members contributed
$9,625.00 for this cause. Climbing Preservation Grants provide financial
assistance for local climber activism and protection of the climbing
environment across the United States.
In 2002, the AF awarded over $120,000 in grants. In the first half
of 2003, $29,500 was awarded to assist parking improvements, campgrounds,
trailhead facilities, land acquisitions, and provide organizational
and startup assistance for Local Climbing Organizations nationwide.
Your support makes this generous funding possible.
Thanks again to our members whose contributions will help support
this crucial program!
7. Rocky Mountain Field Institute Indian Creek
Weekend
The Rocky Mountain Field Institute (RMFI) is seeking
volunteers for a work weekend September 27 and 28 doing trail construction
at Indian Creek. The project goal is to build a climbing access trail
to Bridger Jack. Consider spending a day climbing and a day working,
or join RMFI for two days of work if possible. Well meet at
9:00 am at the trailhead for Bridger Jack. Bring your own food, water,
camping gear, and RMFI will supply work gloves and tools. Call or
email the Rocky Mountain Field Institute to register by the week before
the event. Call (719) 471-7736 or email rmfibox@aol.com.
RMFI is also seeking volunteers for trail work and alpine restoration
in South Colony Lakes Basin, Sangre de Cristo range on August 29-September
1 and September 6-9. Base camp and food will be provided. Call or
email RMFI for more information and application.
8. News from the Flatirons, CO
The Flatirons Climbing Council goes live!
Visits their new website for the latest climbing news and events
in the Flatirons of Colorado. See http://www.flatironsclimbing.com/
Third Flatiron reopens to public
The Third Flatiron reopened August 1st along with other areas of
Open Space and Mountain Parks lands that have been closed for the
raptor-nesting season. These areas are closed seasonally each year
to protect nesting raptors and their chicks. The Third Flatiron
was home to two late nesting prairie falcon fledglings. Staff performed
daily assessments of the area to be sure it was safe to reopen and
have determined that the fledglings have successfully left the nest.
"Area visitors will notice falcons for the next few weeks,
but are urged to keep as much distance as possible between themselves
and the birds," said Rick Hatfield, Open Space and Mountain
Parks Ranger/Naturalist. "We appreciate the patience of the
climbing community and other visitors during this closure."
Staff reminds visitors that it is against federal law to harm or
disturb falcons, and asks that any unusual raptor activity be reported
to Open Space and Mountain Parks. For more information, please visit
http://www.ci.boulder.co.us/openspace.
For raptor closures and restrictions nationwide, see
http://www.accessfund.org/access/access_restrictions.html
9. Featured Corporate Partner - Rock and Ice
Magazine
Rock & Ice Magazine is a Diamond level corporate
sponsor of the Access Fund and has been since 1993.
"Supporting the Access Fund is a top priority for Rock and Ice
magazine. The Access Fund is THE climbers voice,
speaking for all of us in key political circles, working to keep our
crags open for todays - and tomorrow's - climbers."
Duane Raleigh
Editor in Chief and Publisher
10. Journals and Memorabilia
The Access Fund has the following journals for
sale. Email heather@accessfund.org
to inquire about availability or to make an offer.
High 118, 153, 156, 160-162, 164, 166, 179, 180, 183, 191, 194
Mazama December 1940-1988 (48 total)
American Alpine News
Issues - 1985-1988 (vol. 1-4); 1989 (spring and fall); 1999 (vol.
8)
Adirondack Alpine Journal - #1 - #8 (Dec '83 - April 86)
Leeds University Union - Climbing Club Journal 1974
Rock: Australia's Climbing Magazine 1987
Flash - Vol. 1 #'s 1-4
Connection - Vol. 1 (2-4); Vol. 2 (1-3)
Sport Climbing - Vol. 2 (#4); Vol. 3 (#1-3)
The Climbing Art- #25
Summit - Nov. 1965, June 1978, Jan. 1989, May 1989, Winter 1991
Crags - 18, 19, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 29
Descent - 1972, 1990
11. Crazy Creek Blowout!
Our Crazy Creek chair makes for cushy belaying
and great lounging at your campsite. They are available in navy blue,
royal blue, or forest green. The price is $30 (while supplies last).
To order, visit
https://www.accessfund.org/secure/gear.pl
12. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program
(MIP)
Climbers who join the Access Fund or renew their
membership in 2003 for at least $50 will reap the following benefits:
MIP Levels and Benefits:
$50 - Access Fund T-shirt
$100 - T-shirt & 1yr subscription to Outside Magazine
$250 - T-shirt & Black Diamond Moonlight headlamp with AF logo
$500 - T-shirt & North Face Redpoint jacket with AF logo
$1000+ - T-shirt & 60m Maxim "Dry" rope
Join/renew your Access Fund membership or find out more about the
MIP at
https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php
13. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
The Vertical Times newsletter, the Access Fund's
bimonthly publication, provides up-to-date news on policy, area
reports, events, action alerts, grants, and more. It is a benefit
to members and non-members alike (if you are not a member, please
join at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php).
Indeed, it is a benefit to the entire climbing community. By offering
this unique publication electronically, the Access Fund will decrease
printing and mailing costs and allocate more funds to protect YOUR
CLIMBING FUTURE. If you choose to take part in this effort, and
cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, email your name
and address to memberservices@accessfund.org
with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, over 400 members have requested not to receive their
print copy of Vertical Times (a savings to the Access Fund of $1200
per year to be utilized in protecting YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE).
To view current and back issues of Vertical Times, visit
http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html.
AF E-NEWS POLICIES:
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