The Access Fund
your climbing future
http://www.accessfund.org/
E-News Online
IN THIS ISSUE:
1. Hyalite Canyon, Montana Ice Climbing Access
2. Castle Rocks: Idaho’s Newest State Park Dedicated Near Almo In August
3. Activists Summit Draws Grassroots Constituents from Across the Nation
4. Access Fund Awards $13,000 in the Second Round of Grants
5. REI Gives Community Grant for Climbing at Little Si, Washington
6. Grassroots Coordinator Hired at the Access Fund
7. 2003 Adopt-A-Crag Day Photo Contest!
8. Letter to Time Magazine Editor regarding “Wearing Down The Mountains” Article
9. Featured Corporate Partner -- Clif Bar
10. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP)
11. Kickin Access Friction Addiction
12. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
13. The Access Fund is Moving
1. Hyalite Canyon, Montana Ice Climbing Access
Report Submitted by Joe Josephson
The Gallatin National Forest is revising the “travel plan” for all roads and trail use across the Forest. There are 6 alternatives in the current draft. All but the “no change” Alternative 1 effectively eliminate ice climbing in the canyon by gating the road against vehicle access.
Please Comment by October 3, 2003.
Members of the Southwest Montana Climbers’ Coalition had a very productive meeting with cooperative input from the Forest Service. Based on those discussions, here is some suggested language for the comment form that will be helpful in maintaining if not improving ice climbing access in Hyalite Canyon. It is imperative a few key points are expressed in anything you write.
They are:
-- It is not acceptable for the road to be gated or otherwise blocked at the dam, regardless of whether or not the road is plowed as far as the dam.”
-- Hyalite Canyon is one of the best, concentrated and accessible ice climbing venue in the entire Northern Rockies region. I would continue to ice climb in Hyalite throughout the winter season into late March for as long as Road #62 remains accessible past the Reservoir.
Below is the range of options discussed with the Forest Service. Please include one of these in your comments.
- Plowing to Chisholm Campground (the campground at the East Fork turnoff) until March 31st and allowing vehicular access beyond that point to the Grotto Falls parking lot as long as conditions permit. (East Fork would be gated to provide a family ski loop.)
- Plowing to the Grotto Falls parking lot until mid-January, then until March 31st plowing to Chisholm Campground and allowing vehicular access beyond that point to the Grotto Falls parking lot as long as conditions permit. (East Fork would be gated to provide a ski loop.)
- Plowing to the Grotto Falls parking lot until March 31st. (East Fork would be gated to provide a ski loop.)
To view the complete draft packet, or to fill out a public comment form, visit the Gallatin NF website at: www.fs.fed.us/r1/gallatin/travel_planning
Please send your comments- they must be postmarked by October 3, 2003- to: Gallatin National Forest, Attn: Steve Christiansen, PO Box 130, Bozeman, MT 59771.
2. Castle Rocks: Idaho’s Newest State Park Dedicated Near Almo In August
A thunderstorm could not dampen the spirits of the nearly 200 people who traveled to Almo August 21st for the openingceremonies of the park. Attendees included Idaho Governor Dirk Kempthorne, Senator Larry Craig, Access Fund Executive Director Steve Matous, and Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith.
“When I visited the City of Rocks we talked about the importance of securing Castle Rocks for the people of Idaho and at the same time securing the property rights of farmers and ranchers,” Craig said. “As a ranch kid I understand this. So today we say to the world welcome, welcome to Castle Rocks.”
Kempthorne pledged to the people of the Almo Valley that the Castle Rocks project would be taken at a pace they would be comfortable with.
“You are the partners,” he said. “You have the third and fourth generation knowledge we need to make this project work.”
Kempthorne commended the efforts, which brought the state and federal park systems together during the Castles Park project. In 1999, The Conservation Fund and the Access Fund teamed up to buy the ranch, and subsequently the Castle Rock Ranch Acquisition Act of 2000 authorized the National Park Service (NPS) to purchase the 1,240-acre ranch with the understanding that the area would be turned into a state park and opened for public recreation, specifically climbing. The Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation (IDPR), the same agency that currently manages City of Rocks National Reserve, will manage the state-owned portion of “Castles” (BLM and USFS land also lies behind the state park).
“This will be here for generations upon generations to enjoy, thanks to the efforts of those who made this project come together,” said National Park Service Deputy Regional Director Art Eck.
The Access Fund and the American Alpine Club presented Superintendent Wallace Keck with an award acknowledging his outstanding work efforts to include the climbing community in planning, development and stewardship of the newly formed Castle Rocks State Park.
Following the governor’s remarks, the cooperative land swap agreement was signed and a red ribbon was cut, officially opening Castle Rocks State Park to the public. Visitors were fed a Dutch oven dinner hosted by IDPR, local ranchers led horseback tours into the park, and rangers held a rock climbing demonstration where spectators could see climbers scaling the monolithic giants.
“This ceremony marked the culmination of years of effort by the Access Fund and other interested parties to open up this special landscape to climbing opportunities,” said Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith. “Hopefully, we can obtain climbing access elsewhere by using the experience at Castles as a model for an effective and cooperative management process.”
3. Activists Summit Draws Grassroots Constituents from Across the Nation
The Access Fund held a national conference for climber-activists from September 11-14, 2003 at the Estes Park Center in Colorado. The event united the organization’s national network of regional coordinators with activists from local climber organizations (LCOs) and land managers for two days of workshops, discussion and networking. Participants also shared strategies for preserving access and conserving the climbing environment.
The Summit epitomized the Access Fund’s commitment to preserving access and provided an excellent forum for volunteer activists nationwide to share their ideas, experience, resources and knowledge. It was the fourth event held by the Access Fund in its 13-year history.
“Overall, the Summit was incredibly successful,” said AF Access and Acquisitions Director Shawn Tierney. “People came away with really great information, resources and tools to take back to their local climbing areas.”
“This meeting contained the highest concentration I've ever seen of dedicated people working on climbing access issues,” reported John Peterson, Ragged Mountain Foundation president. “Every climber should be glad that these people work so hard on their behalf. The AF people are just as dedicated to the cause and as the conference went on it became obvious that they had made a tremendous difference to the LCOs.” For a personal report of the summit by John Peterson, Ragged Mountain Foundation president, see http://raggedmtn.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=137
4. Access Fund Awards $13,000 in the Second Round of Grants
The Access Fund awarded $13,000 in its second round of grant funding for 2003. Awarded three times annually, ClimbingPreservation Grants provide financial assistance for local climber activism and protection of the climbing environment. The grants will be distributed for trail improvements, education and campground maintenance needs.
The following projects and local climbing organizations received grants:
Friends of Joshua Tree, CA
$1,000 awarded to the grassroots climber’s organization, Friends of Joshua Tree to assist with operational support. The group represents climbers’ interests in Joshua Tree National Park and works closely with the Park to address stewardship and climbing management issues.
Joshua Tree Wilderness Climbing Study, CA
$3,000 awarded to Erik Murdock of the University of Arizona for a wilderness rock climbing study. This project develops a tool for understanding the temporospatial relationship between rock climbers, as well as other wilderness visitors, and sensitive resources at Joshua Tree National Park. Using predictive simulation, its purpose is to assess the merit of the Park’s proposed fixed anchor permitting process and establish a technique that can be applied to other climbing areas.
Ragged Mountain Foundation, CT
$2,000 awarded to the grassroots climbers organization, Ragged Mountain Foundation to assist with the purchase of a 5.2-acre parcel of property in Southington, CT. The parcel contains a trap rock crag known locally as the Short Wall and a section of the Metacomet hiking trail.
Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition, MA
$2,000 awarded to assist with a natural resource survey of Farley Ledge. The purpose of the survey is to provide information necessary to developing a management plan for the area. Farley Ledge is a regionally significant rock climbing and outdoor recreation destination.
East Animas Climbing Access Project, CO
$4,000 awarded to the Durango Climbers Coalition to assist with trailhead, parking and access improvements. This project will secure permanent public access to the East Animas climbing area, the premiere local climbing resource available in the Durango area.
New Mexico-Climbers’ Resource and Advocacy Group (NM-CRAG)
$1,000 awarded to the grassroots climber’s organization, NM-CRAG, to assist with start-up and organizational capacity building. The group will represent climber interests in New Mexico.
THANKS FOR SUPPORTING ACCESS FUND CONSERVATION GRANTS!
A special thank you goes out to all of our members who contributed to our recent appeal to raise funds for Access Fund Climbing Preservation Grants. As of September 9, 2003, 116 members contributed $9,775 for this cause. Climbing Preservation Grants provide financial assistance for local climber activism and protection of the climbing environment across the United States.
In 2002, the AF awarded over $120,000 in grants. So far in 2003, the AF has awarded $42,000 in grants. The third round of grants occurs in October of this year. For more information, see http://www.accessfund.org/programs/programs_prog.html
5. REI Gives Community Grant for Climbing at Little Si, Washington
Recreation Equipment Incorporated (REI) recently donated a Community Grant for climbing access at Little Si in Washington (near Seattle). AF Regional Coordinator and Board Member Andy Fitz applied for the grant and has been working to maintain climbing access to Little Si.
6. Grassroots Coordinator Hired at the Access Fund
Deanne Buck is the Access Fund’s new Grassroots Coordinator. She will begin her position on September 22nd. Her duties include: serving as the primary contact for the Regional Coordinator Network, supporting Local Climbing Organizations and coordinating regional conferences.
Deanne started climbing in Nebraska 10 years ago. Her most recent job was as the Marketing Director and Events Coordinator at Mountain Sports in Boulder. Deanne has also worked at a rock gym in California, as Congressional aide to US Representative Peter Hoagland and Director of the Women's Resource Center at the University of Nebraska. Deanne holds a JD and is registered with the Colorado Bar. Her legal career included a stint with Chris Archer, former Access Fund Board Member and doing research for United States Representative Mark Udall.
Deanne likes both Alpine and all rock climbing activities and has climbed throughout the West Coast. She can be reached at Deanne@accessfund.org.
7. 2003 Adopt-A-Crag Day Photo Contest!
Send us your Adopt-a-Crag photos that best illustrate volunteerism and stewardship to be eligible and win a
Mountain Hardwear tent. Send your photos via email to john@accessfund.org or by mail to: Access Fund Photo Contest,
PO Box 17010, Boulder, CO 80308. (JPEG files prefered electronically. Please keep attachments smaller than 2MB).
8. Letter to Time Magazine Editor regarding “Wearing Down The Mountains” Article
Submitted by Joe Denicola -- Los Gatos, CA
I am writing in response to the article by Terry McCarthy entitled "Wearing Down The Mountains" in the September 1 issue [of Time Magazine]. The author suggests that rock climbers as a group are environmentally insensitive. I found it ironic that the article coincided with the September 6, national Adopt a Crag day, coordinated by The Access Fund, a climber's advocacy group. Along with thousands of other volunteer climbers throughout the country, my 11-year old son and I spent the day scrubbing graffiti and picking up glass left by thoughtless high school students at our local crag.
As a group, climbers and mountaineers tend to be far more aware of the environmental impact of their sport. "Leave no trace" and "pack it in, pack it out" are fundamental operating principles. And like many climbers, I often carry plastic bags to remove garbage left by others during day trips.
Given that the current administration in Washington is systematically undermining the preservation of wilderness on a grand scale, the focus on climbers is misguided.
9. Featured Corporate Partner -- Clif Bar
Clif Bar has been an active Access Fund Corporate Partner since 1995. They are the Supporting Sponsor of the 2003 Adopt-a-Crag Day, and their yummy bars have fueled climbing volunteers across the country.
“The Access Fund is a true champion for the sport of climbing. It’s important for Clif Bar Inc. to support their organization because no other organization does more in the interest of climbers through working with land managers and lobbying for access while also preserving the environment.”
Gary Erickson, Clif Bar CEO
10. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP)
Climbers who join the Access Fund or renew their membership in 2003 at the minimum level of $50 will reap the following benefits:
MIP Levels and Benefits:
$50 - Access Fund T-shirt
$100 - T-shirt & 1yr subscription to Outside Magazine
$250 - T-shirt & Black Diamond Moonlight headlamp with AF logo
$500 - T-shirt & North Face Redpoint jacket with AF logo
$1000+ - T-shirt & 60m Maxim "Dry" rope
Join/renew your Access Fund membership or find out more about the MIP at
https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php
11. Kickin Access Friction Addiction
In 2003 and 2004, Kurt Elaina will again hit the road for the Kickin Access Tour. The events feature "Friction Addiction" by Kurt Smith, dyno and pull-up comps, live music by DJ Highball, gear auctions, and raffles. Click http://www.accessfund.org/events/events_events.html to find a Kickin Access event near you. Please come out, join the party and support the Access Fund!
FALL 2003 SCHEDULE
9/23 Rochester, MN @ Prairie Walls 507-292-0511
9/24 Madison, WI @ Boulders Gym 608-244-8100
9/27 Red River Gorge, KY @ Miguel’s 606-663-1975
9/30 Ann Arbor, MI @ Planet Rock 734-827-2680
OCTOBER:
10/4 New River, WV @ Waterstone Outdoors 304-574-2425
10/9 Schenectady, NY @ Electric City R. G. 518-388-2704 W/ EMS
10/17 Burlington, VT @ Petra Cliffs 802-657-3872 W/ Outdoor Gear Exchange 802-860-0190 & Climb High 802-985-5056
10/18 N. Conway, NH @ Craggers 603-356-8877
10/21 Boston, MA @ Boston Rock Gym 781-935-7395
10/24 Orono, ME @ Maine Bound 207-581-1756
10/28 Providence, RI @ R. I. Rock Gym 401-727-1704
10/29 Wallingford, CT @ Prime Climb 203-265-7880 (TENTATIVE)
12. Vertical Times Newsletter Online
The Vertical Times newsletter, the Access Fund's bimonthly publication, provides up-to-date news on policy, area reports, events, action alerts, grants, and more. It is a benefit to members and non-members alike (if you are not a member, pleasejoin at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php). Indeed, it is a benefit to the entire climbing community. By offering this unique publication electronically, the Access Fund will decrease printing and mailing costs and allocate more funds to advocacy and grassroots work. If you choose to take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, email your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, 791 members have requested not to receive their print copy of Vertical Times -- a savings to the Access Fund of nearly $5000 per year to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE.
To view current and back issues of Vertical Times, visit http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html.
13. The Access Fund is Moving
Please note the Access Fund's new office address for shipments, deliveries and visits (effective 9/26/03)
207 Canyon
Suite #201 South
Boulder, CO 80302
We ask that you continue to utilize our post office box for all other mail and correspondence (Phone, fax and email will remain the same).
PO Box 17010
Boulder, CO 80308
AF E-NEWS POLICIES:
1. The Access Fund office in Boulder, CO is the only source of outgoing messages to the lists.
2. The AF will not sell or give away email addresses of AF E-News subscribers.
3. AF E-News is an announcement-only e-mail list; therefore, you cannot reply to any of the list members.
4. All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail sent.
