ACCESS FUND



		AF E-News #39 - 2004 The Access Fund your climbing future E-News Online ________________________________________ IN THIS ISSUE: 1. Great Falls, Virginia Climbing Access is at Risk 2. BLM Continues Voluntary Closure for Portions of Chalk Bluff, CA 3. Access New Jersey 4. Adopt-a-Crag 2003 Wrap-up 5. Access and Conservation Member Handbook Online 6. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP) ____________________________________________ 1. Great Falls NP, VA Climbing Access is at Risk (Submitted by: Curt Taras, PE) ____________________________________________ The National Park Service is currently drafting a new General Management Plan / Environmental Impact Statement for Great Falls National Park located in Virginia approximately 25 minutes from Washington DC. Great Falls National Park is a climbing treasure containing over 200 routes in the pristine Potomac River Mather Gorge located near a population of over 4 million people. Many climbers visiting DC from throughout the world on business or pleasure have climbed at Great Falls. The draft plan proposes three alternative concepts for the future operation of the park that affect its many recreational uses including climbing. How these alternatives affect climbing is summarized below: (Source: NPS Great Falls Park General Management Plan Statement, Nov 2003) Alternative Concept A - No Action/Status Quo Climbing activities allowed at designated sites operated on a fist come basis Alternative Concept B - Resource Enhancement Reduce number of climbing sites and control through NPS permitting Alternative Concept C Recreational Enhancement Expand climbing sites and anchors. Expand concession operations to control climbing uses through reservations and permits. Federal agencies are required by law to include a no action alternative such as Alternative A, but that they rarely select it. Therefore it will require public input for climbing access to be preserved in its current status at Great Falls National park. Alternative B reduces climbing sites and initiates a NPS permitting program. Alternative C says it will expand climbing sites, anchors, and initiate a concession run reservation and permit system. Alternative C is a Red Herring for climbers because currently all climbing sites are accessible with the exception of those on cultural resources or near the falls viewing platforms. To expand climbing sites to these areas would go against the NPS mission of cultural and view shed preservation. Additionally, a concession run reservation and permit system translates to unnecessary user fees and bureaucratic red tape placed on the climber. To learn more about this proposal please visit: www.nps.gov/gwmp/grfa/gmp/newsletter/ Your comments are needed to protect climber access at Great Falls. The alternative selected will be chosen in the upcoming weeks. Please respond to this proposal by writing: Superintendent Audrey F. Calhoun George Washington Memorial Parkway c/oTurkey Run Park McLean, Virginia 22101 GWMP_Superintendent@nps.gov (Please include "Attn: Great Falls GMP Team" and your name and return address in your Internet message.) ____________________________________________ 2. BLM Continues Voluntary Closure for Portions of Chalk Bluff, CA ____________________________________________ The Bureau of Land Management Bishop Field Office will continue a voluntary seasonal closure of the western part of Chalk Bluff in 2004, from January 1 through July 31. The closure is to minimize disturbance of any raptors using the area during the breeding season. Observations since 1999 have shown an apparent decline in raptors using the area, while an increase in human use has occurred. The voluntary seasonal closure began in 2002. It encompasses the less-visited part of the bluff, west of the popular "Happy Boulders" and "Sad Boulders" climbing areas. "While we don't have conclusive evidence of human disturbance to raptors, we request that people voluntarily avoid the closure area to reduce possible impacts to birds that use the area," BLM field manager Bill Dunkelberger says. "The apparent decline in raptors is a concern since the Chalk Bluff, with its interface above the Owens River, appears to have all the right ingredients for good raptor habitat. I feel it is prudent to minimize potential human impacts to the remaining raptors while we continue to study the issue." Biologists believe Chalk Bluff provides valuable habitat for birds of prey, with steep and complex cliffs just above a prey-rich riparianhabitat, and air currents conducive to soaring. Several raptor species have been seen hunting and performing courtshipdisplay flights along the bluff, and cliff-nesting species such as golden eagles and prairie falcons could potentially nest there. The bluff began to surge in popularity as a recreation destination in 1998. Systematic raptor observations begun in 1999 showed a golden eagle pair and a prairie falcon started to establish nesting territories that year but abandoned the attempt and did not return in the following years. The number of raptors observed perching and flying along the bluff also declined. It was hoped that the voluntary partial closure might help clarify the relationship between raptor and human use, but raptor numbers have remained low both in and outside the closure area. At BLM's request, PRBO Conservation Science (formerly the Point Reyes Bird Observatory) is assessing the feasibility of designing a more intensive study to determine and address the extent and causes of the raptor decline. Meanwhile, BLM will continue working to identify and mitigate effects on other values and resources, while maintaining bouldering opportunities in the area. Los Angeles Department of Water and Power and local and visiting climbers have cooperated in the voluntary partial closure, which will be identical in 2004, with signs posted along the boundary. For more information call the Bishop Field Office at (760) 872-5000. ____________________________________________ 3. Access New Jersey ____________________________________________ Access NJ, a grassroots organization focused on climbing access issues in New Jersey announces the following issues that will be addressed in 2004 and into 2005. Your active participation is needed. Check updates on www.climbnj.com Help is needed for a variety of issues and situations. Meeting dates and locations to be posted. See http://climbnj0.tripod.com/ for contact information on your local legislator. Access Issues 1. Cradle Rock. After discrete discussions w/ local landowners a local climbing organization is being formed to address possible permanent access to the Cradle Rock Boulder Field. This local climbers organization sole purpose is to anchor, examine and evaluate issues needed to regain Access to the boulder field. Contact: John Anderson at: ingvarja@cwenj.com for additional information. 2. Legalization of Rock-Climbing on NJ's State owned and managed lands. Climbers need to be openly active in this area. 90% of climbing in NJ takes place in the NJ Highlands. Access NJ is now part of "the Highlands Coalition" see www.highlandscoalition.org. State of NJ web Site on the Highlands: www.savethehighlands.org. 3. Future meeting dates and times to be posted on the www.climbnj.com website. ____________________________________________ 4. Adopt-a-Crag 2003 Wrap-up ____________________________________________ The Access Fund recognizes everyone who contributed to the success of the 4th Annual Adopt-a-Crag Day. The Access Fund supported over 70 Adopt-a-Crag events in 2003 that involved more than 1,000 volunteers in 29 states. Climbers gathered at their favorite crags and boulders for trail construction, litter clean-ups, and visual impact mitigation. Adopt-a-Crag Day is a national commitment by the climbing community to natural resource stewardship and volunteerism, and would not be possible without the generous support of its sponsors. Title Sponsor Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI), Presenting Sponsor W.L. Gore, and Supporting Sponsor CLIF Bar provided key financial backing, allowing the Access Fund to provide each Adopt-a-Crag Day event with volunteer incentives and clean-up materials and to present three awards for exemplary events. · The REI Adopt-a-Crag of the Year Award is presented to Frank Harvey and volunteers at Obed Wild and Scenic River, Tennessee. It was a banner example of stewardship and community-mindedness. Over sixty volunteers completed six specific projects including: site cleanup and landscaping, visual impact mitigation, trail building/restoration, and trail sign installation. In addition, this year's effort saw the beginning of replacement of suspect anchor bolts on a number of climbing routes at the popular Lilly Bluff. This work was performed under the recently implemented Obed Wild and Scenic River Climbing Management Plan. In discussing the success of the Obed Adopt-a-Crag Day, Harvey noted the importance of stewardship in building relationships. "Of all the work, building physical trails are important but not as important as the bridges we have built between ourselves and local private and public individuals, park management, and other user groups. Our work building trails helps promote legitimacy and acceptance as an invested group in the stewardship of the area." · The Access Fund and W.L. Gore present the Adopt-a-Crag Stewardship Award to Art Messier and Chris Manzuk and the San Diego Climbers' Coalition (SDCC) volunteers for displaying a high level of activism, stewardship, and an overwhelming sense of community. On Sep 6th, 60 volunteers braved 98 degree temperatures to perform much needed trail work on the Climbers Loop Trail at Mission Gorge: brush was trimmed from the trail, huge rocks were moved for new steps, rock retaining walls were constructed, and brush was piled up to close destructive short cuts. Messier was impressed not only with the dedication of area climbers but with the involvement of local business, "We had our best turnout ever in terms of both volunteers and community business support. We are getting local businesses to recognize and support our efforts." · The Access Fund and CLIF Bar present the Adopt-a-Crag Day Conservation Award to Thomson Ling and the Adopt-a-Crag volunteers at Great Falls, Virginia. Ling welcomed volunteers from five local climbing organizations (SheClimbs of DC, PATC Mountaineering Section, VA Climbers Group, American Alpine Club, and DC Outdoor Rock Climbers Group) to the park for a day of landscaping, debris removal, and trail construction. The National Park Service Ranger Peter Lonsway said he was extremely impressed with the work ethic, friendliness and productivity of the group. According to Ling, "The day not only helped the park service in maintaining the climbing areas, but also fostered good relations between the park service and climbers, as well as built a sense of community among local climbers!" Stay tuned for more community building and stewardship opportunities with Adopt-a-Crag 2004! ____________________________________________ 5. Access and Conservation Member Handbook Online ____________________________________________ The Access and Conservation Member Handbook is a complete source of information about access issues, Access Fund programs, letter writing and other advocacy tools, and a primer on ways to get involved at your local crags. Look inside for: - Tips for writing political action letters. Personal letters from the climbing community often make a real difference in public policy debates. - A complete list of the Access Fund's staff. The staff is always ready to help you with access issues or stewardship work in your area. - Guidelines about how to climb responsibly and minimize the impacts of climbing on the environment, on land managers, and on other climbers and visitors. The Member Handbook is updated regularly and available for downloading as a PDF file at: http://www.accessfund.org/pdf/memb-handbook.pdf ____________________________________________ 6. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP) ____________________________________________ Climbers who join the Access Fund or renew their membership in 2003 at a minimum level of $50 will reap the following benefits: MIP Levels and Benefits: $50 - Access Fund T-shirt $100 - T-shirt & 1yr subscription to Outside Magazine $250 - T-shirt & Black Diamond Moonlight headlamp with AF logo $500 - T-shirt & North Face Redpoint jacket with AF logo $1000+ - T-shirt & 60m Maxim "Dry" rope Join/renew your Access Fund membership or find out more about the MIP at https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php ____________________________________________ AF E-NEWS POLICIES: - The Access Fund office in Boulder, CO is the only source of outgoing messages to the lists. - The AF will not sell or give away email addresses of AF E-News subscribers. - AF E-News is an announcement-only e-mail list; therefore, you cannot reply to any of the list members. - All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail sent.