Access Fund E-News #40
February 2004
E-News Online
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IN THIS ISSUE:
1. 2003 Access Fund Work On Endangered Crags
2. Checklist of spring climbing restrictions to protect wildlife
3. What the Access Fund Has Done for Ice Climbing
4. Download the Vertical Times Newsletter Online
5. Climb up to the next level with your support--join the Access Fund 5.12 Club!
6. Access and Conservation Member Handbook Online
7. Access Fund Membership Incentive Program (MIP)
CAVE ROCK, NEVADA
Spearheaded opposition to USFS climbing ban at Cave Rock, including: Successful advocacy work that extended the public comment period on the Cave Rock closure through March 2003; obtained significant Congressional support for our work to keep Cave Rock open; obtained Congressional support letters from the NV delegation inquiring into the Cave Rock issue; rallied many members of the climbing community in support of AF's efforts to keep Cave Rock open; obtained initial indication from members of Congress that they will support oversight hearings looking into public land closures based on sacred site conflicts; filed an administrative appeal urging the Forest Service to reconsider their management actions; and filed a lawsuit with Nevada Federal Court to reverse unconstitutional actions by the US Forest Service.
THE FLATIRONS, COLORADO
Attended a series of meetings with city of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks Department planning staff and provided climber perspective on the Flatirons Visitor Management Plan; provided ongoing support for the Flatirons Climbing Council, the area's local climber organization (http://www.flatironsclimbing.com/), who will focus on stewardship, climber education and working with the city to resolve climbing management issues; provided funding for trail work and site restoration at heavily used bouldering areas near Crown Rock and the Pebble Wall.
HUECO TANKS, TEXAS
Continued to offer support to Hueco Tanks State Historical Park (HTSHP) for resource protection, trail improvements, and climber education. Assisted the formation of the Climbers of Hueco Tanks who will focus on climber education and stewardship projects at Hueco. Provided financial support for Climbers of Hueco Tanks staff to attend crucial management meetings, and obtain recognition from HTSHP that Hueco is one of the world's premier bouldering sites which is unique and should be preserved. Held a climbers meeting at Hueco to hear the concerns of the bouldering community.
LITTLE COTTONWOOD CANYON, UTAH
Met with members of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance to discuss strategies for negotiating with the LDS Church concerning private property issues in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). Met with the US Forest Service Salt Lake District Ranger and various recreation planners regarding proposed trail networks on public land in LCC that could help access bouldering areas as well as existing climbing area.
RED ROCKS, NEVADA
Drafted administrative comments and related advocacy work on management plans for Red Rocks National Conservation Area (NV) and the newly established wilderness area at Red Rocks. Urged the BLM to either lift their unauthorized fixed anchor ban or develop a climbing management plan (CMP) to address all climbing issues including new fixed anchor authorizations. Worked with climbing advocacy groups and the BLM's National Landscape Conservation System officials in Washington, DC to instigate a CMP process.
RED RIVER GORGE, KENTUCKY
Strategized with cultural resource consultants to find positive solutions to protect archaeological and historical values at Red River Gorge, KY while maintaining reasonable climbing access.
TWIN SISTERS, IDAHO
Continued two-part strategy:
a. Develop and implement a CMP for neighboring Castle Rocks State Park (managed by the Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation who also manage the City of Rocks/Twin Sisters). The Access Fund facilitated a workshop with state park officials, federal agencies and regional climbers to develop a climbing management plan for this newly opened climbing area adjacent to the City of Rocks National Reserve. Produced and distributed an interim educational brochure for recreational users of Castle Rocks State Park and adjacent City of Rocks in Idaho, supported through partnerships with the IDPR, The National Park Service, Black Diamond Equipment, Marmot, and The Elephant's Perch.
b. Initial discussions with IDPR to revise City of Rocks CMP, including a review of the Twin Sisters closure. Will increase political lobbying to obtain funding for CMP revision and to get support for opening Twin Sisters to limited climbing.
VOLCANIC TABLELAND, CALIFORNIA
Provided over $14,000 in grants to assist with bouldering management on the Tableland, (Happy and Sad boulders) The grants were used for climber education materials, campground maintenance, cultural resource surveys to identify and mitigate potential impacts to sensitive archeological sites and installation of a permanent vault toilet in the Pleasant Valley campground (to be installed in 2004). Attended interagency meeting (BLM, Forest Service, LA Dept. of Power and Water and the county) and provided climber perspective on climbing management issues. Organized a climber meeting to hear the concerns of local climbers - the meeting led to the formation of a local climber group to represent climbers on the east side of the Sierra.
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Each year the Access Fund provides this update so that climbers have a checklist of climbing areas, which may have some form of closure to protect cliff-nesting raptors. To obtain the latest information: BEFORE visiting an area visit:
www.accessfund.org/access/access_restrictions.html
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Ouray Ice Park, CO.
The Access Fund provided crucial legal and technical support during the initial formation of the ice park.
Bridalveil Falls, CO.
Access to this internationally renowned ice climb crosses land owned by the Idarado Mining Corporation. The AF was instrumental in gaining legal public access to the falls through an annually renewable recreational access easement that was in place for many years. Unfortunately, Idarado elected not to renew the easement in 2002. Currently we are working with Idarado, the town of Telluride and The Trust for Public Lands to attempt to gain a new easement agreement.
West Slope Ice Formations, CO.
Many west slope ice climbs are located on private property. Much of this property is being leased for oil and gas development. The companies holding the leases are unwilling to negotiate legal access for recreational use.
Boulder Canyon, CO.
Provided a $2,000 start-up grant to the Boulder Ice Climbers Coalition. Members of the coalition along with representatives from the AF have met with city officials on numerous occasions to preserve ice climbing opportunities in the Canyon.
Hyalite Canyon, MT.
As part of a Travel Management Plan that is currently being drafted, the Forest Service is considering closing the road into the canyon. Local climbers and the AF have emphasized the significance of the ice climbing opportunities in the canyon, and have urged the Forest Service to keep the road open.
Afton, WY.
Town officials recently contacted the AF to discuss the creation of an ice park in an effort to stimulate the local economy. The AF has offered advice on how the park could be established, using Ouray as an example. The Town is considering applying for a grant from the AF to help establish the park.
Ogden, UT.
This is also considering creation of an ice park on USFS lands thanks to the efforts of Jeff Lowe. The AF will be meeting with Lowe, the City of Ogden, USFS and the officials involved to help the process along.
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See the current issue of Vertical Times to read the update on the Fixed Anchors in Wilderness issue; Area Reports from around the country including California and New Jersey; the spring climbing restrictions to protect wildlife; the Adopt-a-Crag 2003 wrap-up; letters; a list of Local Climbing Organizations nationwide; and more! You can download a PDF of the February issue, Vertical Times (#56) at www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html
Also, a reminder that the Access Fund is still giving members the option of viewing Vertical Times online instead of receiving the paper version. This decreases printing and mailing costs, thus allocating more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. To take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, please E-mail your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, 1500 members have chosen our online option -- a savings of $7500 per year to be utilized towards the Access Fund's Mission to preserve and conserve the climbing environment.
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The 5.12 Club is a special segment of Access Fund members who provide continuous year-round membership support through automatic monthly deductions from their checking or credit card accounts. The 5.12 Club is a secure, easy and convenient way of maintaining your Access Fund member status.
As a member of the 5.12 Club, you'll help the Access Fund increase advocacy on behalf of climbers, AND you'll spread out your annual contribution over 12 months. For as little as $10 per month, you can join the 5.12 Club and help make the Access Fund more effective and efficient in defending climbers' freedoms.
Joining the 5.12 Club can save the Access Fund time, money, and resources, which will go towards our crucial work at climbing areas around the country. For more information on the 5.12 Club, contact Membership Director Kerry Cowan at kerry@accessfund.org
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The Access and Conservation Member Handbook is a complete source of information about access issues, Access Fund programs, letter writing and other advocacy tools, and a primer on ways to get involved at your
local crags. Look inside for:
- Tips for writing political action letters. Personal letters from the climbing community often make a real difference in public policy debates.
- A complete list of the Access Fund's staff. The staff is always ready to help you with access issues or stewardship work in your area.
- Guidelines about how to climb responsibly and minimize the impacts of climbing on the environment, on land managers, and on other climbers and visitors.
The Member Handbook is updated regularly and available for downloading as a PDF file at: http://www.accessfund.org/pdf/memb-handbook.pdf
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Climbers who join the Access Fund or renew their membership in 2003 at a minimum level of $50 will reap the following benefits:
MIP Levels and Benefits:
$50 - Access Fund T-shirt
$100 - T-shirt & 1yr subscription to Outside Magazine
$250 - T-shirt & Black Diamond Moonlight headlamp with AF logo
$500 - T-shirt & North Face Redpoint jacket with AF logo
$1000+ - T-shirt & 60m Maxim "Dry" rope
Join/renew your Access Fund membership or find out more about the MIP at
https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php