Access Fund E-News #43
May 2004
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E-News Online

IN THIS ISSUE:

1. Members Wanted
2. NPS To Reconsider the Twin Sisters Climbing Ban at the City of Rocks, ID
3. Adopt-a-Crag 2004
4. Join Us at the Access Fund's 2004 Annual Dinner in San Francisco
5. Meet the Access Fund: Michael Lindsey
6. Action = Access: How to Organize
7. Affiliate Partnership
8. Off -Road Vehicle Use
9. Save Paper and Postage - receive your VT online
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1.Members Wanted: Join, renew, or sign up a friend TODAY!

As we ramp up for the summer climbing season, let's take a moment to reflect on the importance of a good belay, a reliable partner, great weather, and the opportunity to climb in so many beautiful outdoor spaces.

Just as climbers rely on their partners, and places to climb, the Access Fund relies on member support to accomplish its goals. Our ability to protect climbing resources and advocate on the behalf of climbers is strengthened by support from individual members and climbers, like you.

Membership support is the Access Fund's most consistent and largest source of revenue. But our member base is not growing as quickly as the sport of climbing seems to be. And during the "lean and mean" summer months, we need your support now more than ever!

If you are not a current member, please renew your membership or join the Access Fund today at: https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php

If you are a member, encourage your climbing partners to join or give the gift of membership by clicking "gift" as the donation type using the above link.

OTHER WAYS to contribute:

*CALL toll-free 888-8-MEMBER (888-863-6237) extension 106

*E-MAIL our membership director, Kerry Cowan: kerry@accessfund.org

*SNAIL-MAIL your donation to:

            Access Fund Membership

            PO Box 17010

            Boulder, CO   80308

Thanks for your support and CLIMB ON!
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2. NPS To Reconsider the Twin Sisters Climbing Ban at the City of Rocks, ID
In February the Access Fund's Policy Director Jason Keith traveled to Washington DC to lobby on several issues, in particular to seek support for revising the climbing ban at Twin Sisters at the City of Rocks National Reserve.  As a result of this advocacy work, all members of the Idaho congressional delegation (Senators Craig and Crapo; Congressmen Simpson and Otter) signed onto a letter urging the National Park Service (NPS) to revise the climbing management plan (CMP) at the City of Rocks  in Idaho and ease the absolute climbing ban on the Twin Sisters formation.
 
The Twin Sisters (closed to climbing since 1993) are the most prominent and recognizable rock formations at the City of Rocks and provide unparalleled opportunities for rock climbers from around the country.  The Twin Sisters formation is also a National Historic Landmark due to its association with the California Trail.  In 1993 the NPS initiated a Twin Sisters Resource Study to evaluate the effects of rock climbing on the formations' historic values.  Despite the NPS conclusion that rock climbing had no significant measurable effect on the geologic, natural or visual integrity of the historic resource at Twin Sisters, the 1998 CMP for the City of Rocks prohibited climbing on the Twin Sisters to protect its historic "feeling and association."  It is also worthwhile to note that power lines and a house are clearly visible from the California Trail, while climbers on Twin Sisters are not visible from the Trail, even to the trained eye.  The 1998 CMP for the City of Rocks is currently up for revision.  

The March 23, 2004 letter from Congress encouraged the NPS to implement a multiple-use management plan providing for low-impact climbing activities consistent with NPS policies, and consider a balanced management approach for Twin Sisters in a revised CMP that provides climbing opportunities while ensuring that appropriate historic values are protected. On April 19, 2004 the NPS responded to Congress by stating that unrelated pressing management issues have caused them to also reconsider their policies on the Twin Sisters closure.  Accordingly, the NPS hopes to begin the process of amending the Comprehensive Management Plan for the City of Rocks and to assess "if the decision to ban climbing on the Twin Sisters remains valid from a recreational and resource stewardship perspective."  
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3. Adopt-a-Crag

It is time again to start thinking about an Adopt-a-Crag stewardship project for your favorite climbing area.   Our goal this year is to support over 85 Adopt-a-Crags around the country.   We can't do this without you!   In the past three years, we have looked to the leadership and passion of local climbers to make Adopt-a-Crag a success.  As the face of the Access Fund at the local and regional level, we depend on your enthusiasm, expertise and leadership in the organization of Adopt-a-Crag events in your area.  

 

Consider Adopt-a-Crag an avenue for building alliances and partnerships and to plan for the future.   Adopt-a-Crag inspires activism, advocacy, volunteerism, and stewardship.   This national conservation effort promotes a sense of respect and responsibility and provides a means of giving back to the climbing areas we use on a regular basis.   In the four years since the inception of Adopt-a-Crag, climbers around the country have built and restored thousands of miles of trails, hauled tons of trash, and completed thousands of conservation initiatives.   

 

This year we have expanded Adopt-a-Crag to encompass the entire month of September.  We made this change to encourage organizers to schedule their Adopt-a-Crag event on a day that works best for their community and to partner with other organizations. As in the past, you can get all your Adopt-a-Crag information and register online at www.AccessFund.org .   For more information, contact Deanne, Grassroots Coordinator at 303.545.6772 ext 112 or Deanne@AccessFund.org

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4. Join Us at the Access Fund's 2004 Annual Dinner in San Francisco

Our annual dinner is a vital tool for building financial support to advance our mission;   keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment.

We rely solely on membership fees, corporate sponsors, individual donors and foundations to fund our mission. This year's dinner will contribute resources for our key initiatives.   We hope you will join us for a wonderful evening of sharing adventures with friends about   climbing in Yosemite.

Event Details

When: Thursday, September 23, 2004

Where: San Francisco, Golden Gate Club, On The Presidio

Who: Allen Steck, Hans Florine, Tommy Caldwell and Beth   Rodden; Access Fund board members, staff and friends.

What: An evening of dinner and conversation with speakers   from three generations sharing their climbing adventures in Yosemite.

Invitations for the event and registration will be made available on the Access Fund website.

For more information, visit http://www.accessfund.org/events/annual_dinner.html
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5. Meet the Access Fund: Michael Lindsey

Michael Lindsey, Director of Major Gifts

John Heisel: Where are you from?Michael Lindsey: I was born and raised in Wyoming. I lived there 27 years, leaving to work for Colorado Outward Bound in 1979. During my last five years there, I was the program director and did some fundraising trips to Nepal and the former Soviet Union. Then, I started working for NOLS as the director of the Rocky Mountain Branch, and worked as the operations director overseeing branches in Kenya, Mexico, Canada, Chile, as well as the U.S.

JH: How did you get into climbing?

ML: In 1970, my roommate took a two day introduction to rock climbing course at the University of Wyoming. He came back and said "I really like this, let's go out climbing. He bought an old Gold line rope, a few pitons and a hammer. The next day we went to Vedauwoo. He led the first pitch to show me how it was done. I led the second pitch and (laughs) somehow we managed to survive. So we learned by trial and error. Then, I kept climbing at Vedauwoo and around Wyoming and Colorado throughout college. When I graduated, I kept trying longer and harder climbs and traveled around the Western United States and Canada.

JH: What type of climbing do you prefer?

ML: After almost 20 years of traditional climbing, I moved to Lander in 1989. The best traditional climbing was a ways away so we started putting up sport climbs in nearby Sinks Canyon. I could go from my house, to climbing at Sinks Canyon, in 15-20 minutes. Sport climbing really fit my lifestyle. I could spend half a day with my daughters, and still get in enough pitches in to feel real hammered. I enjoy the gymnastics and movement of sport climbing. I still like to trad climb, but like the convenience and ability to focus on the pure movement of sport climbing.

JH: So, tell me about your job as Director of Major Gifts.

ML: My job is to get more people involved in financially supporting the Access Fund. Climbers are becoming increasingly aware that their climbing resources can't be taken for granted. For the Access Fund to be effective, it needs the resources, namely dollars, to expand its mission and remain the voice of sensible climbing regulations and access issues.

JH: What type of support are you trying to receive for the AF?

ML: The Access Fund gets its financial support from membership fees, individual donors, private and public foundations, grants, and corporate support. We need to broaden our base and get more people involved in giving to ensure our climbing future is intact. As the population grows, cities expand and regulations stiffen, their will be more pressure to limit access to some of our favorite climbing area.
JH: What kind of projects are you working on right now?

ML: One of my biggest projects is organizing the Annual Dinner in San Francisco on September 23rd where we will have three speakers. The theme is "three generations pushing the limits in Yosemite."

JH: What are some other of your projects?

ML: I'm also working to expand our Planned Giving program. There are a number of ways people can give to the Access Fund such as wills, life insurance, or deferred gifts. Some planned gifts can even take effect during the donor's lifetime. The important concept is that the donor's heirs will still receive the same amount, even with a planned gift. The difference, in many instances, is that the federal government receives less tax.

JH: So why should people support the AF?

ML: First, become a member because our membership can be a powerful force for public policy issues that effect climbing. We've truly have made a significant impact on climbing in America. Also, members can be assured their contributions are well spent to protect their climbing interests.
JH: Anything else?

ML: A lot of access problems can be avoided if climbers are good ambassadors and stewards in their local climbing areas. For example, at Sinks Canyon we met with the land managers early on when we started developing routes. Then we worked with them to develop strategies for minimizing impacts, which helped ensure continued access to the area!
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6. Action = Access:   How to Organize

It is sometimes difficult for climbers to convey their experience to non-climbers, especially to those traditional users and established land managers with whom we interact most frequently. How do we demonstrate that we are legitimate users; that we won't cause environmental damage, and in fact can improve the lands on which we regularly play through a stewardship ethic? How do we demonstrate that large numbers of climbers are an asset to the parks? The answer: we must organize.

In most of the access situations to date, climbing areas were closed and then climbers got organized. We must reverse this sequence.   Just how do we go about this?

a.   Check to see if a local climbing organization exists in your area.

There are over 50 local climbing organizations in the United States ( http://www.accessfund.org/whoweare/who_lco.html ).   If there is one in your area, join in the next meeting.   Most climbing organizations have established relationships with land managers and owners.   You can tap into those existing relationships to ensure that access remains open to your favorite climbing areas.

b.   If a climbing organization doesn't exist, consider forming one.

Unlike other forms of climbing, climbing naturally pulls people together and creates a social atmosphere.   This is a great place to start your organization.   Decide to bring a little activity outside of climbing into the group, such as a clean-up, and instantly you have the beginnings of a local climbing organization.   Consider:

-Crag clean-up and trail maintenance parties, with other user groups invited/encouraged

-Representatives to serve as liaison for each park/jurisdiction

-Strong encouragement for all members to be involved

-Sponsor (or co-sponsor) one joint event annually with other user group(s)

*Rewards program to encourage member involvement

c. All Climbing Shops and Gyms WelcomeAll Climbing Shops and Gyms are actively encouraged to be involved in and support your organization.

d. Involve a Broad Spectrum of Climbers

-Represent the entire climbing community, from beginners to experts (boulderers, mountaineers, trad, sport, and ice climbers) -- as long as they support the purpose of the club.

-Reach out to groups that traditionally do not participate in large numbers (younger climbers, indoor climbers)

e. Emphasize Responsible Bouldering and a Commitment to Stewardship Ethic

Consistent communication with members and non-members on the importance of responsible bouldering and the need for a stewardship ethic

f. Most importantly, have fun and appreciate that you are contributing to your climbing future.
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7. Affiliate Partnership

The Access Fund would like to welcome the following climbing organizations that have joined the Affiliate Partnership Program.   We are very excited to formalize our relationship with the climbing organizations that perform such great work at the local and regional levels.   In joining together, our goal is to not only strengthen the Access Fund's relationship with local climbing organizations, but also to strengthen all of our advocacy efforts, as well. 

There truly is strength in numbers and, through our unified effort, we can make a difference for the preservation of climbing access and conservation of the climbing environment.   We are looking forward to a long-term and mutually beneficial relationship.

AccessNJ

Boise Climbers Alliance

Boone Climbers Coalition

Carolina Climbers Coalition

CRAG-Vermont

Eastern Iowa Climbers' Coalition

Gunks Climbers' Coalition

Kootenai Climbers- Idaho

Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers
Ragged Mountain Foundation

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance

Southern Sierra Climbers Association

Western Massachusetts Climber's Coalition

If you are a climber and your home crag is located in one of these areas, be sure to check out their website and find out when the next stewardship project occurs.   Getting involved at the local level is the first step in preserving your climbing future.

If you are a grassroots, volunteer-based climbing organization, association, or access committee working primarily or exclusively to keep climbing areas open, conserve the climbing environment, promote responsible climbing, and act as the liaison between the climbing community and the land managers and owners for the crags within your region, we encourage you to sign up as an Access Fund Affiliate. To view a list of AF Affiliates and link to their websites, visit http://accessfund.org/whoweare/who_lco.html.  For more information, please contact Deanne, Grassroots Coordinator at 303.545.6772 ext 112 or Deanne@AccessFund.org.

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8. Off -Road Vehicle Use

The failure to effectively manage off-road vehicle use is one of the four greatest threats to our National Forests, according to Dale Bosworth, Chief of the U. S. Forest Service (USFS).

The USFS has announced that it plans to take national action to control problems caused by dirt bikes, all-terrain vehicles (ATVs), and other off-road vehicles by amending its regulations that govern off-road vehicle use.

The USFS will open a 60-day public comment period later this spring (probably in early May). During that period, it is imperative that hikers, skiers, and other human-powered recreationists write letters to the USFS asking for them to restore balance to our national forests by restricting ATVs and other off-road vehicles to confined areas expressly designed for this use.  

For more information on the rulemaking including specific policy recommendations, updates on the timing of the public comment period, and what you can do to protect our national forests, check out www.cmc.org/cmc/conservation   or   www.naturaltrails.org ,   or contact Aaron at 303.650.5818 x113 or at aaron_clark@tws.org .
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9. Save Paper and Postage - receive your VT online

The Access Fund is still giving members the option of viewing Vertical Times online instead of receiving the paper version. This decreases printing and mailing costs, thus allocating more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. To take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, e-mail your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.

Presently, 1666 members have chosen our online option - a savings of $8330 per year to be utilized towards the Access Fund's Mission to preserve and conserve the climbing environment. You can download a PDF version of the current Vertical Times at www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html (Acrobat is required)
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(To sponsor the Access Fund E-News please contact Heather Clark, Access Fund development director, at heather@accessfund.org or 303.545.6772 x.100.)

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