Access Fund E-News #44
June 2004
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This Issue sponsored by Alpinist Magazine. "Our Access Fund E-News sponsorship paid for itself five times in 12 hours. I would recommend it to any outdoor industry marketer." (Andy Leinicke, marketing director, Alpinist Magazine) To sponsor the Access Fund E-News please contact Heather Clark, AF development director, at heather@accessfund.org or 303-545-6772 ext.100.
IN THIS ISSUE:
1. Arizona's Oak Flat Threatened by Mining Proposal
2. Adopt-a-Crag 2004
3. Support Access To Outdoor Recreation!
4. Meet the Access Fund: Michael Pinkston ("Mr. P")
5. Join Us at the Access Fund's 2004 Annual Dinner in San Francisco
6. Vertical Times #58 (June Issue) is Now Online as a PDF
7. Alpinist Offers AF Member Special Rate
8. Save a Tree - receive your VT online!
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1. Arizona's Oak Flat Threatened by Mining Proposal
Access to portions of Arizona's Queen Creek/Oak Flat area - home to the Phoenix BoulderBlast (formerly, the Phoenix Bouldering Contest) - may be lost forever if a mining proposal to extract billions of dollars worth of high-grade copper is approved. Resolution Copper's proposed mine - believed to be the largest copper ore body in North America, and located thousands of feet beneath the US Forest Service-managed Oak Flat area - could cause substantial ground subsidence requiring the area to be closed to public entry. The mine could affect hundreds of bouldering problems and roped routes, resulting in the largest ever loss of climbing resources in the US.
The Access Fund continues to work with the newly formed Friends of Queen Creek (FOQC) to advocate for continue public access to the Oak Flat area, and identify possible outcomes and strategies to maintain climbing and bouldering access at Oak Flat. The FOQC and AF Policy Director Jason Keith have met with officials from Resolution Copper to explore alternatives whereby mining activity and climbing opportunities in the Queen Creek area can coexist.
At this stage Resolution Copper has completed initial feasibility studies and begun "informal discussions" with the US Forest Service's Tonto National Forest concerning the proposal. For more information call the Tonto National Forest in Phoenix, AZ at (602) 255-5200, log on to their website at www.fs.fed.us/r3/tonto/indexy.html, or email the Tonto's Deputy of Public Affairs Vincent Picard at vpicard@fs.fed.us. The loss of Oak Flat access could also result from a proposed legislated land exchange, which could effectively take the public's voice out of the approval process unless Congress is convinced otherwise. If you would like to help FOQC work for continued public access to Oak Flat, log onto www.accessfund.org/programs/oakflat.htm. For more local information, check out www.friendsofqueencreek.com or email info@friendsofqueencreek.com.
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This year, the Access Fund is taking Adopt-a-Crag to new heights! Our goal is to support 89 Adopt-a-Crag events around the country. If we were to climb Yosemite's Salathe Wall (35 pitches), The Nose (31 pitches), and Half Dome, Northwest Face (23 pitches) in a day, we would complete 89 pitches of climbing. Of course, we can't do it alone. We need your help to reach this goal. Presently, there are 21 events. We have just moved off "Thank God Ledge" on Half Dome, and with your help we will top-out soon.
Consider Adopt-a-Crag as an avenue for building alliances and partnerships and to plan for the future. Adopt-a-Crag inspires activism, advocacy, volunteerism, and stewardship. This national conservation effort promotes a sense of respect and responsibility and provides a means of giving back to climbing areas.
This year we have expanded Adopt-a-Crag to encompass the entire month of September. We made this change to encourage organizers to schedule their Adopt-a-Crag event on a day that works best for their community and to partner with other organizations. You can obtain all your Adopt-a-Crag information and register on the AF website at https://www.accessfund.org/events/events_events_adopt.html
For more information, contact Deanne, grassroots coordinator, at 303-545-6772 ext. 112 or Deanne@AccessFund.org.
Adopt-a-Crag Events (as of 6/04)
· 8/21 Anchorage, AK. Seward Highway Adopt-a-Crag, Wayne Fuller, climb@alaska.net
· 9/04 Brevard, NC. Adopt-a-Crag at Looking Glass Rock, contact Adam Fox,
adam@foxmountainguides.com
· 9/11 Hager's Mountain, Cary, NC. 3rd Annual Hager's Mountain Adopt-a-Crag, Roger May, alpinist@nc.rr.com
· 9/11 8am, Cody, WY. Shosone River Canyon Clean-Up, Kenny Gasch, bwb@vcn.com
· 9/11 Lafayette, GA. Lost Wall Trail Day, Pigeon Mountain, Bryan Raffield, ynorman@mindspring.com
· 9/11 Monticello, IA. 7th Annual Wild Iowa-Pictured Rocks Adopt-a-Crag Clean-up, Evan Fales, evan-fales@uiowa.edu
· 9/11 Sandrock, AL. Sandrock Adopt-a-Crag, Michelle Connell, tradclimber@myway.com
· 9/18 Great Falls Park, VA. Adopt-a-Crag at Great Falls Park, Thomson Ling, thomsonling@hotmail.com
· 9/18 Pinnacle, NC. Adopt-a-Crag at Pilot Mountain State Park, Michael Pinkston (Mr. P), TheClimbingPlace@aol.com
· 9/18 Lewis and Clark State Park, OR. Adopt-a-Crag at the Bluffs, Tony Holmes, nwwilderness@aol.com
· 9/18 Rocky Butte, OR. Rocky Butte Rendezvous, Kellie Rice, accessfundgal@yahoo.com
· 9/18 Iron Gate, Clifton Forge, VA. Roanoke College Adopt-a-Crag, Mr. P, TheClimbingPlace@aol.com
· 9/18 Dragons Tooth, VA. Dragons Tooth Adopt-a-Crag, "Mr. P, TheClimbingPlace@aol.com
· 9/18 Salem, VA. Hanging Rock Adopt-a-Crag, Mr. P, TheClimbingPlace@aol.com
· 9/18 Roanoke, VA. McAfee's Knob Adopt-a-Crag, Mr. P, TheClimbingPlace@aol.com
· 9/19 Clifton, ME. Clifton Adopt-a-Crag, Paul Stern, paul.stern@umit.maine.edu
· 9/25 Anacortes, WA. Mount Erie Adopt-a-Crag hosted by Cascade Guiding Services, Scott Harder, scott@cascadeguide.com
· 9/25 Santa Barbara, CA. Gibralter Rock Adopt-a-Crag Clean-Up hosted by UCSB Adventure Programs, Rod Tucknott, rod@par.ucsb.edu
· 10/02 Castlewood Canyon State Park, CO. 2nd Annual Castlewood Clean-Up, Todd Mayville, tamayvil@acsd14.k12.co.us
· 10/10 Coopers Rock, WV. Coopers Rock, Greg Corio, gcorio@mail.wvu.edu
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3. Support Access to Outdoor Recreation!
As summer approaches, Americans for our Heritage and Recreation (AHR) is also kicking off its Land and Water Conservation fund (LWCF) petition drive to the President. LWCF has been responsible for the creation of more than 40,000 parks and recreation areas ensuring access for millions of Americans to get outdoors. Additionally, it also protects open space, wilderness areas, wetlands, and refuges. We are simply asking the President to keep his promise and fully fund LWCF. As LWCF faces decreased funding, it is imperative to let the President know that people rely on this program for outdoor recreation. Please go to www.asap2004.org today to sign our petition and join us in getting one million signatures by Labor Day so that we can ensure all Americans enjoy the benefits of LWCF!
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4. Meet the Access Fund: Michael Pinkston ("Mr. P"), President of the Carolina Climbers' Coalition & Adopt-a-Crag Aficionado talks to Deanne Buck, AF Grassroots Coordinator
Deanne Buck: What can you tell us about the success of your Adopt-a-Crag events?
Mr. P: A genuine passion for the sport in all its forms, combined with and unbridled enthusiasm, as well as a strong desire to bring the opposing camp together seem to be some of the elements which have contributed to my over all success. As a climber of almost forty years, I've always been active in climbing and environmental issues. Much of my early climbing was in Europe where it was easy to get involved in the Alpine Club, or the UIAA. I arrived back in the states just about the time the Access Fund (AF) was getting started. Those who know me would call me enthusiastic if nothing else. I've always had a tendency to throw myself into a project 100%. As a lone climber, I knew that I could accomplish something, but with the AF, it made it much easier to introduce myself and say that I represent the AF, a nationally recognized climbers advocacy group. Lots of genuine handshakes eventually led to meetings and the beginning of positive relationships between land managers and climbers.
DB: What is your motivation to host/organize Adopt-a-Crag Events?
MP: It's no secret that climbers have gotten a bad rap from just about every media source. They say climbers are reckless, irresponsible, and antisocial. The Adopt-a-Crag events have given climbers a chance to meet land managers and in may cases build lasting relations between officials and climbers. Organizers of Adopt-a-Crag events are in many ways ambassadors of knowledge and good will.
DB: What can people do to be stewards of their local climbing areas outside of Adopt-a-Crag?
MP: The Adopt-a-Crag event is just the beginning. It's great to have a single day to conduct a clean up. Following the event have a party, get to know the climber, get names and address, and phone numbers, and begin to network. Invite the park staff and take a few minutes to ask what other projects could we help you with.
DB: Is there anybody you want to thank for helping you organize your events?
MP: The willingness of park officials, land managers, private land owners and federal land managers to work with the AF, and individual climbing leaders have been invaluable and very instrumental in the overall success of each event. However, it is the climbers and activists who come together giving a consolidated effort to make climbing areas a place where future generations of climbers enjoy. Without the individual climber who freely gives of their time, skill and effort, we would be in the Stone Age. I would like to thank the AF for their visionary thinking and I would definitely like to thank all the sponsors who freely give products to help make each individual event a huge success.
DB: Why should climbers join the AF?
MP: Belonging is a natural part of human nature. As a member of the AF, you're declaring your intention to become part of a much larger group of climbers. When I think of all the complex and different climbing disciplines within our climbing community, I can only think of one organization, which celebrates the complexity and diversity of the whole climbing community. Joining the AF is not like any other organization you will ever be a part of. As a member of the AF, climbers can become directly involved in the future of climbing. To date, there is no other organization on the planet that is solely dedicated to the expressed interest of climbers and their future. For the most part the AF represents the voice of reason in an otherwise insane world where land managers seemed determined to close access to cliffs, and climbers battle for the right to climb. I view the AF as a reasonable bridge between bureaucracy and climbers' rites. Throughout the country individual climbing coalition groups have begun to spring up as a result of the threat of closures looms in, however, and with few exception it is the AF who time and time again has helped work out a reasonable resolution to many closure thought the United States. So, why should climbers join the AF? Because for the first time in climbing history we have become a powerful voice for the future of climbing.
Because, regardless of which climbing camp you find yourself in--Bouldering, sport, trad, big wall, alpine or ice, the AF is there for you the individual climber. As climbing continues to grow we need a flag pole to rally around from time to time, a place that gives us a center of gravity if you will. The AF is our organization and our representation and is our future. So, who should join the AF? Everyone who owns a chalk bag, has taped their fingers, has climbing shoes, grips an ice ax or places a cam in rock. Everyone who climbs in a gym, or part of an outdoor climbing club or would like to become a climber. Everyone. The more members, the more lobbying power the AF has. While development in climbing will continue to astound mere mortals, the AF will remain steadfast to protect the rights of all climbers.
DB: What do you think of the cost to join the AF?
MP: This is our organization, and regardless of the type of climbing you enjoy all climbers should become members of the AF. To put it in terms climbers can understand: Some chalk bags cost more than it cost to join the AF. For a fraction of what you pay for a rope, you can become a member of the AF. Most cams cost more than it takes to sign up for the AF. Crash pads may very well save you from a bad fall, but by joining the AF you can always help to assure that you will have a place to boulder. You can't even get a good ice screw for what it takes to pay a years membership into the AF. Climbers need to put their priorities in order when getting started, so include in your new starter kit which include a harness, carabiner, belay device, chalk bag, chalk, shoes, and an AF membership. Climbing gear wears out and climbers get old, but your membership in the AF will continue to grow and help shape the future of our sport.
DB: Any last thoughts?
MP: During the last four years where I've planed and participated in Adopt-a-Crag events I've noticed that this single event has begun to galvanize the climbing community. For the first time there is a unifying theme, which can unite climber or all kinds and begins to bring focused attention to climbing as a sport with an ever-growing population. We need to take this program to the next level by getting political support and activism. We can no longer stand in the shadows protecting our private crag or boulder field. Our future lies in our ability to organize and become part of the solution. We have already begun in many cases with our grassroots organizations, but we need to do more in order to protect our environment and the rock we so dearly love. One of the best ways to begin is by becoming a member of the AF. I would like to close with a challenge to all who read this article. This year's goal for Adopt-a-Crag events has been set between 80-100. I believe that this goal should be doubled. What kind of message do you think we could send if this year we host more than 200 Adopt-a-Crag events across the United States!
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5. Join Us at the Access Fund's 2004 Annual Dinner in San Francisco
Our annual dinner is a vital tool for building financial support to advance our mission; keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment.
We rely solely on membership fees, corporate sponsors, individual donors and foundations to fund our mission. This year's dinner will contribute resources for our key initiatives. We hope you will join us for a wonderful evening of sharing adventures with friends about climbing in Yosemite.
Event Details
When: Thursday, September 23, 2004
Where: San Francisco, Golden Gate Club, On The Presidio
Who: Allen Steck, Hans Florine, Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden; Access Fund board members, staff and friends.
What: An evening of dinner and conversation with speakers from three generations sharing their climbing adventures in Yosemite.
Invitations for the event and registration will be made available on the Access Fund website.
For more information, visit https://www.accessfund.org/events/annual_dinner.html
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6. Vertical Times #58 (June Issue) is Now Online as a PDF
The June issue of Vertical Times (volume 58) is online as a PDF file for downloading. The issue offers additional news and photos (not included in the Access Fund E-News). It can be downloaded directly (700K file) at https://www.accessfund.org/pdf/VT58.pdf
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7. Special offer -- Access Fund member rate to Alpinist Magazine
As Alpinist's way of thanking climbers for supporting the Access Fund, we're offering a special Access Fund member rate to Alpinist, a reader-supported publication.
Visit the URL below for your special member rate (18 percent off the regular rate of
$46)
https://subscribe.pcspublink.com/subscribeFormGeneric.asp?track=JAAF04&pub=ALPS&term=4
For more information about Alpinist, visit http://www.alpinist.com/
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8. Save a Tree - receive your VT online!
The Access Fund is still giving members the option of viewing Vertical Times online instead of receiving the paper version. This decreases printing and mailing costs, thus allocating more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. To take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, e-mail your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, 1696 members have chosen our online option - a savings of over $8000 per year to be utilized towards the Access Fund's Mission to preserve and conserve the climbing environment. You can download a PDF version of the current Vertical Times at www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html
(Adobe Acrobat is required)
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