Access Fund E-News #47
September 2004
E-News Online
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Alpinist Magazine celebrates the climbing life in every issue, but they can't do it if our climbing areas are shut down. That's why Alpinist is proud to offer a discounted subscription rate to Access Fund members. The Access Fund is the only national climbing organization dedicated exclusively to preserving access to our climbing areas. Without them, the magazine would have nothing to write about!
Click here for the special Access Fund member rate (18% discount off regular yearly rate of $46)
For more information about Alpinist, a reader-supported publication, click the logo or visit http://www.alpinist.com . 
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IN THIS ISSUE:
1. Hurricane Ivan and Climbing
2. Call to Action - Wisconsin Climbers
5. Climb Smart Benefit for Access Fund
7. Devils Tower National Monument To Conduct North Terrace Prescribed Fire
8. Vertical Times #59 (August Issue) is Now Online as a PDF
9. Membership Incentive Program Gifts
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1. Hurricane Ivan and climbing
When we think of Hurricane Ivan, we think water and winds, not rocks. But, for those in North Carolina, Pennsylvania, and other Eastern Seaboard states, rock (or lack of access to) is foremost in their minds. According to one recent posting on www.carolinaclimbers.com , "Following the recent hurricanes many of our favorite climbing spots have been put on a temporary shutdown. Not really shut down but access has been made more difficult due to roads being washed away. From what I gather all the climbing areas are open, but access just isn't as easy."
The Access Fund is here to help. Already members of the Carolina Climbers Coalition ( www.carolinaclimbers.com ) are planning "Adopt-a-Crag 2004, Round Two" with the full support of the Access Fund. If you live in one of the states affected by Hurricane Ivan and would like to be involved in either organizing or participating in an Adopt-a-Crag event please contact Deanne Buck ( deanne@accessfund.org ), grassroots and Adopt-a-Crag coordinator.
2. Call to Action - Wisconsin Climbers
In mid-August, Grassroots Coordinator Deanne Buck traveled to Wisconsin to host a climbers' gathering and to tour some of the Midwest's largest climbing resources. The climbers' gathering was an opportunity to hear climbing related issues and to start formulating solutions to those issues, including the revitalization of Wisconsin Outdoor Access (WOA), a local climbing organization. Attendees of the forum agreed to a follow-up "meeting" and field trip to Gibraltar Rock, which has been closed to climbing for over 3 years, this Sunday, September 26th. Information can be found at http://db.climbingcentral.com/members/elandmann/gibraltar.pdf . or http://www.climbingdevilslake.com/#1094877076
In addition, the Wisconsin Climbers listserv has been revived. If you live in the Midwest and climb in Wisconsin, join the listserv at http://www.climbingcentral.com/woa/lists.lasso . Whether your goal is to reopen Gibraltar Rock, solidify relations with land managers at Devil's Lake, or help with an Adopt-a-Crag, WOA would like your assistance. Wisconsin climbers have the unique opportunity to step into the framework of a very successful climbing organization, to build upon its successes, and to ensure climbing access in Wisconsin. Remember, it is your climbing future!
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3. Adopt-a-Crag Has Topped Out!
Congratulations, together we have surpassed our goal of 89 Adopt-a-Crag events around the country!
If we were to climb Yosemite's Half Dome, Northwest Face (23 pitches), The Nose (31 pitches), and Salathe Wall (35 pitches) in a day, we would complete 89 pitches of climbing. As with all dreams and goals, we couldn't do it alone. We topped out on Half Dome in late-June, the Nose we flew up by late-July, and summited on the Salathe Wall on September 10th.
Adopt-a-Crag events span from late August to mid-November and from Maine to California, from Alaska to Georgia. We have cast the net of climber goodwill and stewardship over the entire country! Through all of your efforts, we are connecting climbers to each other and building relationships with land managers and owners.
This event would not be possible without the continued commitment of Adopt-a-Crag's remarkable sponsors: REI, Gore-tex, and CLIF Bar. With their support, Adopt-a-Crag provides a wonderful opportunity for climbers to give back to the places we love the most. A big THANKS to them and to all of you! Be sure to check out the Adopt-a-Crag schedule of events to find one near you this month at: http://www.accessfund.org/events/aac_events_st.php
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4. Congress and Adopt-A-Crag
The Access Fund regularly meets with land agency officials and members of Congress to advocate on behalf of climbers. In our continuing efforts to improve the connection between climbers and those who make decisions that effect access to our precious climbing resources, the Access Fund invited members of Congress to attend Adopt-a-Crag events in their districts. Not only does this connection showcase climbers commitment to conserving the climbing resource and building relationships with land managers, but it also gives members of Congress an opportunity to speak to their constituents about their involvement with key public land issues.
Our recent efforts to reach out to Congressional members builds upon a very successful event last spring hosted by the Access Fund in Washington D.C. called Climbers for Political Action. Seven members of Congress spoke at the event. The event served to educate members of Congress, congressional staff, representatives from the federal resource management agencies, and leading environmental organizations about climbing issues and values, and about efforts by the climbing community to support important conservation causes.
Last Friday, September 15th, Congressman Mark Udall (D-CO) participated in the 4th annual "Flagstaff Trash Bash" put on by the Boulder, Colorado-based Flatirons Climbers Council. In addition to getting his hands dirty and picking up trash, Congressman Udall spoke with individuals, as well as addressed the entire group of over 150 participants
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Willie Mein (Flatirons Climbing Council), Mark Udall (D-CO) and Steve Matous (Access Fund) Photo: Mike Brooks
Next month we hope to have Congressman Wamp (R-TN) attend an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition at Sunset Rock near Chattanooga, TN. Several other Congressmen have also been contacted to participate in their local events. As the Adopt-a-Crag program moves forward we will continue to involve our elected officials to show them the care and concern the climbing community has for its climbing resources.
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5. Climb Smart Benefit for Access Fund
Hey everyone, it's time for Climb Smart; brush off your rack, learn some new skills, meet some top climbing pros, give back to the Park, get some great gear for peanuts, and get psyched for the upcoming fall Josh climbing season; that's what Climb Smart is all about. Tell your friends, and find out more at http://www.friendsofjosh.org. For $100 you get choice of AMGA guide run clinics, dinner Sat. night, Adam Stack slideshow (beyond the Arctic Circle!), silent auction and raffle, and the satisfaction of supporting the only climbing advocacy group working with the JTNPS on shaping Park Policy toward climbing. This is our biggest funding event of the year, and Patagonia, Black Diamond, A16 and many other companies will have a significant presence to make it completely worth your while. Don't miss it!
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6. Squamish, Canada
Stawamus Chief Gondola Proposal -- Report from Climbers' Access Society of British Columbia (CASBC)
A proposal has been made to build a tourist gondola and associated facilities on the Stawamus Chief. The gondola would start at the gravel pit between the Chief and Shannon Falls, and end in an enclosed area on the second summit. The proponents appear to be determined and resourceful. The gondola is contrary to the 1997 master plan for Stawamus Chief Provincial Park, although the plan can be overruled if there is sufficient public or political support.
National and international organizations, including the Alpine Club of Canada, the Access Fund, and the American Alpine Club, have become involved. Squamish legends Ed Cooper and Fred Beckey have written to express their opposition. The Access Society has been sent copies or reports of about 20 letters, and has heard of many other climbers writing. The Friends of the Chief have seen over 100 letters.
The government has told the Access Society that (paraphrasing) "the proponents must consult in an open and transparent manner with the local community, First Nations, interested or affected public agencies, users and stakeholder groups. Public consultations may occur this autumn. If those consultations demonstrate broad community support for a continuation of the park's management plan to restrict mechanized access on the Chief, then we would reflect those wishes." It is still unclear what process will occur, or how we can participate.
There is some disagreement as to what the actual process will be. One version is that the proponents must first consult key stakeholders - the District of Squamish, the Squamish First Nation, the Ministry of Transport, and the Vancouver Olympic Organizing Committee. (The inclusion of the latter seems strange.) If these consultations indicate that an amendment to the park plan should be considered, broad consultation with the community would follow, including open houses and other forums. The proponents could not consult the public until then. Another version would allow the proponents informal public consultation even before any meeting with key stakeholders.
The Access Society's position on this issue:
a) The climbing community is a key stakeholder, and should be consulted as such (the park was created for recreation, particularly climbing, and the climbing community has made a major contribution to the park),
b) Any process to determine public views should be managed by a neutral body such as the Ministry of Water, Land and Air Protection (aka Ministry of Parks), but funded by the proponents,
c) The process should be clearly defined by the government, including a definition of "broad community support", and what "consultations with key stakeholders indicate" means, and
d) The requirement be that there be "broad community support" for overturning the master plan and allowing the gondola - it is illogical that the requirement be "broad community support" for retaining the existing master plan.
The proponents will appear before Squamish Council on Tuesday September 28th to present their plans. The meeting is usually at 7:00 PM at council chambers at the municipal hall at 37955 - 2nd Avenue, in downtown Squamish (www.squamish.ca , or (604) 892-5217), and is open to the public. There may be an opportunity for others to make presentations, or for the proposal to be debated. If you plan to attend, please let the District know you'll be there, and the Access Society. We'll publicize any other information that becomes available before the meeting, but we encourage those interested to keep the 28th free, and if possible to write before then with your comments. It will help if all those interested in the future of the Chief and of Squamish express their views.
The proponent's plans may be seen at www.stawamuschiefgondola.com .
There may be other opportunities to participate in this issue, such as forums, surveys, and open houses, and we'll publicize them as they arise. For now, letter writing is one way to participate - once the proponents have published detailed plans, we strongly encourage you to review them and write again.
The Access Society's position is that a tourist gondola may be appropriate somewhere in the Squamish area, after appropriate planning and public debate. Stawamus Chief Provincial Park is not an appropriate location for a gondola.
For more information, please visit: http://casbc.bivouac.com/index.html
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7. Devils Tower National Monument To Conduct North Terrace Prescribed Fire
Devils Tower National Monument plans to implement the "North Terrace" prescribed fire within the months of October and November, 2004. The 230-acre area immediately north of the Tower was originally planned to be burned last fall however, a weather "window of opportunity" never presented itself. The prescribed fire is scheduled to be completed within one day, with mop-up and monitoring to follow for several additional days.
Prescribed fires maintain the balance between forest and prairie and remove the build-up of dead fuels, lessening the chance of a catastrophic wildfire. The goals of the North Terrace Prescribed Fire are to reduce the amount of fuels that would burn if an uncontrolled wildfire spread through the area, to increase native plant cover, to reduce the occurrence of non-native perennial grasses, and to restore the natural role of fire in the ecosystem. The prescribed fire will also create small openings in the pine canopy and fertile beds of nutrient-rich ash to improve native plant vigor and wildlife foraging habitat in the area.
Moderate smoke volume and decreased visibility may occur on the main park road. Park personnel will assist with traffic control if visibility poses a safety problem for road traffic. Temporary closure of portions of the park roads and trails is possible. Highway warning signs will be posted along the main park access road and at the park entrance.
Prescribed fires are carefully conducted only under an approved prescription of weather conditions. Factors such as air temperature, humidity, fuel moisture, fuel type, fuel size, wind speed and direction, and short and long range weather patterns are all considered in establishing the acceptable conditions for conducting a prescribed fire. For this reason, it is not possible to accurately predict the exact day when all conditions will be present. Prescribed fire date selection will be made no more than two days in advance. Anyone who has questions or would like to be notified the day before the prescribed fire is scheduled should contact Jim Cheatham, Chief of Resource Management, at (307) 467-5283 extension 12, or Jim_Cheatham@nps.gov
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8. Vertical Times #59 (August Issue) is Now Online as a PDF
The June issue of Vertical Times (volume 59) is online as a PDF file for downloading. The issue offers additional news and photos (not included in the Access Fund E-News). It can be downloaded directly (700 KB file) at https://www.accessfund.org/pdf/VT59.pdf
The Access Fund is still giving members the option of viewing Vertical Times online instead of receiving the paper version. This decreases printing and mailing costs, thus allocating more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. To take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, e-mail your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, 1819 members have chosen our online option - a savings of over $9099 per year to be utilized towards the Access Fund's Mission to preserve and conserve the climbing environment. You can download a PDF version of the current Vertical Times at http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html
(Adobe Acrobat is required)
9. NEW Membership Incentive Program Gifts
Access Fund is proud to announce updated Membership Incentive Program items. Members contributing $50 or more will earn exciting new benefits such as the new stylish Access Fund Beneficial T-shirt! To check out what's in store for the next year, visit https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php
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