Access Fund E-News #49
November 2004
E-News Online
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IN THIS ISSUE:
Your Voice Needed to Preserve Bouldering in Arizona
Flatirons Alert: OSMP Visitor Master Plan
Western Regional Workshop Summary
Give the Gift of an AF Membership
Holiday Blowout-- North Face Redpoint Jacket with embroidered AF logo
Climbers Came with the Rescue to the Rescue Squad
Vertical Times #60 (October Issue) is Online as a PDF
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Dear Climber,
Please note that the Access Fund has consolidated its E-News and Action Alerts services. We are striving to keep you
informed of national climbing access news and also keep you updated with your local news. We have added a "zip code"
entry as part of our home page signup system. To ensure that you receive important Action Alerts about your areas,
please visit our home page (https://www.accessfund.org/ ) and re-enter your email address in the "Join
the Access Fund E-News list." Then submit your zip code when prompted on the next page.
Climb Free,
E-News Editor
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Access Fund Sharp End Awards
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Every year the Access Fund recognizes both businesses and individuals who have done extraordinary service on behalf of the climbing community's work in preserving access to and conserving the climbing environment. We are proud to announce the winners of this years awards:
Sharp End: For leadership and activism in preserving climbing access and the climbing environment. Larry Gustafson, Ashley Brown, Sam Waldstein, Aimee & Kyle Roseborrough, Coreyography, Mountain Gear, Robb Shurr, Heath Norton
Land Manager of the year: Given to a professional resource manager who has demonstrated a commitment to preserving climbing opportunities and a progressive approach to public lands management. Scott Berkenfield, Bureau of Land Management, Utah
Regional Coordinator of the year: For leadership and activism in preserving climbing access and the climbing environment, and specifically for their volunteer work as an Access Fund representative. Kellie Rice
The Bebie Leadership award: presented to America's outstanding activist(s) for the cause of preserving climbing access and the climbing environment. Brad McLeod
Menocal Lifetime achievement award: Presented periodically to individuals who have demonstrated remarkable commitment to the cause of preserving climbing access and the climbing environment, and who have contributed substantially to the progress of the Access Fund over many years. Andy Fitz
Michael Kennedy Award: For outstanding leadership and commitment to our mission as a Board member of the Access Fund. Marte Lightstone and Becky Hall.
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Your Voice Needed to Preserve Bouldering in Arizona
(Report by Jason Keith, Policy Director)
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The Access Fund continues to work on a number of fronts to advocate for continued public access to the Oak Flat/Queen Creek area east of Phoenix, AZ. Access to portions of this unique bouldering area--home to the Phoenix BoulderBlast (formerly, the Phoenix Bouldering Contest which is the largest climbing event of its kind in the world)--may be lost forever if a mining proposal by Resolution Copper Company is approved to extract billions of dollars worth of copper. If this proposal goes through, substantial ground subsidence to the Oak Flat campground--right where the Phoenix BoulderBlast takes place--could cause the ground to collapse hundreds of feet.
For liability reasons, Resolution Copper would like to limit any public access to the areas above where the mining may occur (that is, much of the region's bouldering and roped climbing). In sum, the proposed mine could affect access to thousands of bouldering problems and roped routes and as such could be the largest loss of a climbing resource ever in the United States. For more information check out www.accessfund.org/pdf/VT58.pdf .
The Access Fund continues to work with the Friends of Queen Creek ( www.friendsofqueencreek.com )--a group of local Arizona activists (founded with the help of the Access Fund) that is dedicated to maintaining public access to the larger Queen Creek area--to keep people bouldering at Oak Flat. The Friends met in June with US Congressman Rick Renzi (Oak Flat is in his congressional district) to state our case, and in July the Access Fund's Steve Matous and Jason Keith traveled to Phoenix and met with the offices of Governor Napolitano, and US Senators McCain and Kyl. In October AF Policy Director Jason Keith joined FOQC members for a site tour of Oak Flat with staff from the Governor's office, and traveled to Flagstaff to meet with Paul Babbitt, a candidate for Arizona's 1st Congressional District seat currently held by Rick Renzi.
Although the elections are over, it is still very important that Arizona's elected officials hear from you. Now more than ever your voice is needed to help maintain access to Oak Flat. If you live in Arizona, call or write your politicians, say you are a constituent, and express your concern regarding Oak Flat access. Even if you don't live in Arizona, give these same politicians a call and tell them how valuable and unique Oak Flat is to all Americans that travel there!
Talking points to focus on for your call include: Oak Flat is a unique, multi-use resource that enjoys long-standing federal protection (President Eisenhower issued a protective executive order back in the 1950s); users of Oak Flat are mobilized to assure continued protection; users of Oak Flat are aware that the site also has potential mineral resources owned by Resolution Copper; the Friends of Queen Creek are not anti-mine nor anti-development, but development cannot be at the expense of this irreplaceable resource; and if development is pursued, it must be subject to full public participation, not in the vacuum of a legislated land swap.
For anyone who is interested, there will be a public meeting of The Friends of Queen Creek, on Thursday, December 2nd at 7pm. The location will be the Arizona on The Rock climbing gym, in Scottsdale, AZ.
For contact information regarding Arizona elected officials, log onto www.congress.org. In particular, focus on Governor Napolitano, US Congressman Rick Renzi, and US Senators McCain and Kyl. A sample advocacy letter on the issue can be found at www.accessfund.org/programs/Queen_letter_6_04.html .
Photo from http://friendsofqueencreek.com/
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Flatirons Alert: OSMP Visitor Master Plan
(Text and opinions submitted by the Flatirons Climbing Council)
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As you may know the City of Boulder's Department of Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP) has finished its Visitor Master Plan (VMP). Now seven years in the works, this document is a comprehensive plan for the management of our Open Space and Mountain Parks. The VMP has now been forwarded to the City Council for discussion and possible approval. At this point, the history of the VMP is less important than its impact for people who enjoy the open space and mountain parks for recreation. Here are a few observations about the proposed VMP.
1) The VMP puts all of OSMP land into one of four categories; the map is a complex patchwork that is itself open to debate. But accepting the map as it stands, over 40% of the OSMP land would be in the most highly regulated category (called HCA for Habitat Conservation Area) with rules that are stricter than current ones. The HCA includes all land west of the high ridges between Chautauqua and Eldorado Canyon, Eldorado Mountain, plus various pockets elsewhere. 2) Within the HCAs the proposed VMP calls for no off-trail travel. All hikers must stay on designated trails (those with official trail signs). It's likely that non-designated social trails will be closed, restricting access to some popular crags and long-standing climbing areas. This alarming development might be acceptable if OSMP planned to build new trails. But that doesn't appear to be the case. In that last 10 years, while OSMP acreage doubled, a total of 7 miles of new trails were built. 3) There will be no access to HCAs at night; no more moonlight hikes up Green Mountain. This policy is both baseless and unenforceable. 4) The maximum group size on all OSMP land will be reduced from 50 to 25 people, without a special permit.5) The current ban on competitive events will remain. While OSMP needs to have some flexibility to reject or modify requests for inappropriate competitive events, there is no need for a complete ban on all events. The policy prohibits innovative events such as last year's Cardiac Arete, in which runners volunteered time for trail maintenance at Mt. Sanitas. 6) Overall, the Open Space Board of Trustees consists of people who don't have much understanding of the importance of recreation for many Boulder citizens. Their policies are exclusionary and their perspective on preservation and recreation is (they admit) skewed. Overall, the priority of the Board is still about acquisition of land (which is becoming increasingly scarce and expensive), rather than establishing new trails and maintaining existing trails. I think it's fair to say that the views of many Boulder people have been ignored during the writing of the VMP and are not reflected in the VMP. It's time to mobilize people who care about not only the protection and preservation of open space and mountain parks, but also about having reasonable access to the public land they have purchased. Please write, email or visit your Boulder Cinty Council members. Please write letters to the local newspapers. Please forward this message and get others involved in opposing the VMP. If you want to read the VMP, it's at http://www.ci.boulder.co.us/openspace/plan.htm.
On December 14 at 6:00 p.m., there will be a study session with both the City Council and Open Space Board of trustees at the Senior Center at 909 Arapahoe. Although the public will not be allowed to speak, try to attend and show support in numbers. The City Council is scheduled to reach a final decision on the VMP in February 2005. For more information, see http://flatironsclimbing.com/
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Western Regional Workshop Summary
(Report by Matt Perkins, Washington Climbers' Coalition)
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Over the weekend of October 16-17, I attended a workshop presented by Access Fund staff members and attended by local climbing activists from northern California to Vancouver, BC. The group included some climbers relatively new to the sport and others with over thirty years' active involvement. There were boulderers and mountaineers (small "m"), some who prefer "trad climbing," and others who might be thought more in the "sport" camp. We didn't agree on everything that was discussed, but it was great to interact with a group of folks dedicated to working on access issues, land manager relations, environmental issues, and other related concerns.
One thing I found particularly useful was a discussion of current and recent issues in the areas represented by those present. In some cases, the best responses to these issues are obvious, but in others not so much. However, many climbers seem unaware that some of these issues are of significant concern. Among other things, we discussed current situations involving the following issues:
a. Development issues, such as a subdivision/golf course that swallowed up a climbing area near Bend, Oregon and the proposed Squamish tram in British Columbia.
b. Road decommissioning is a common practice after logging operations are completed on British Columbia crown lands. This is a common solution when roads become a nuisance to land managers as a result of police and management problems.
c. Tribal lands and cultural conflicts, including the use of sacred sites and such public relations issues as the naming of climbs in a manner that may be offensive for cultural reasons.
d. Bouldering impacts can be more concentrated and are often more closely adjacent to other user group activities than other types of climbing.
e. Dogs cause a variety of problems at many climbing areas.
f. Wilderness bolting and violations of other rules including permit requirements, fire regulations, or raptor closures raise problems on public lands.
g. Trespassing and ignoring landowner concerns cause problems on private lands.
h. Conflicting climbers often prevent discussion and cooperation about a wide variety of issues.
One idea that I found quite interesting was that local climbers concerned with raptor closures can help address these issues with a volunteer monitoring program that may help the land managers to more accurately tailor raptor closures to actual nesting habits. At least in one instance, climbers were able to obtain less restrictive closures by promoting and contributing to a program that protected nesting sites during nesting season.
An idea that permeated the discussion is that we, as climbers, need to be more proactive in building relationships with our own community and with local land managers or land owners before crises develop (and in participating in ongoing management and planning discussions). This is not just double-speak or the fad of the day.
You don't have to sign up for several years' of work to get involved. Check out Freeman's Peshastin Pinnacles project, posted in another thread. Kudos go out to those who participated in the event at Mt. Eerie recently. Think about setting up your own project at your favorite crag.
For Seattle area climbers, there is an ongoing planning process in the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie River valley where we believe our interests have been under-represented. In the Okanogan, Wenatchee, and Colville National Forests, there is a new recreation management plan under way.
Check out the Washington Climbers Coalition ( http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/ ) or other local groups and get involved!
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Give the Gift of an AF Membership
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Haven't yet come up with a holiday or birthday gift for your climbing partner? Running out of ideas for the climber who has more gear than they know what to do with?
How about giving the gift of an Access Fund membership?
Call today to 888-8-MEMBER (888-863-6237) x104 or click on https://www.accessfund.org/secure/joinnow/join_indiv.php
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Holiday Blowout-- North Face Redpoint Jacket with embroidered AF logo.
(Size XL Only)
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This jacket is ideal as a technical inner layer or wind-resistant, water-repellant outer layer.
WE ONLY HAVE 20 OF THESE JACKETS IN STOCK...order yours today!
Call 888-8-MEMBER (888-863-6237) extension 106.
Cost is $125 and includes shipping.
Size/color available: XL/Blue
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Climbers Came with the Rescue to the Rescue Squad
(Submitted by Paul Szymanski, Member of the Chicago Mountaineering Club)
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Almost two years ago a gigantic avalanche ran down the slopes of the highest peak in Polish Tatras Rysy (2499 m) killing 9 high school students and injuring 5 other. It was the greatest tragedy in Tatras Mountains. The Polish Tatras Volunteer Rescue Squad sent a helicopter with the team of the best rescuers, unfortunately, the helicopter developed problems with the engines on the way to the avalanche site. The rescuers where forced to jump off from the helicopter and three minutes thereafter, the plane crashed. Fortunately, the pilot survived and no one was hurt. However, the Rescue Squad lost its only helicopter which was a gift from the President Lech Walesa. It was a replacement of a helicopter, which crashed during the rescue mission killing two pilots and two squad members. The Rescue Squad has a very rich history. It was established in 1908 by General Zaruski and one of the best Polish composer, Mieczyslaw Karlowicz. It is a volunteer nonprofit organization partially financed by the government. Because of its legal status and peculiar legal system in Poland, the Rescue Squad has been struggling with financial problems since its rebirth in 1991.
The Polish climbers got tired of government apathy in replacing a helicopter and decided to act. After a year of fruitless waiting and empty promises, climbers who frequently visit internet forum on http://www.wspinaie.pl took matters into their own hands and made impressive changes. Within a month and a half, they collected over 7500 signatures under the petition that demanded changes to existing law and pass the bill through the Parliament that secured significant funding for the Rescue Squad. The bill was sign into law by the President in April. The climbers also raised $20,000 for the overhaul of the crashed helicopter. However, the costs associated with the overhaul are staggering. The government is in significant financial problems. The insurance will cover only a small percentage of the costs associated with the overhaul. As of today, the Rescue Squad needs about $500,000 to make the helicopter fly again and save people's lives.
We need help. The helicopter is necessary for the safety of the people who enjoy Tatras. The chances that the government would provide necessary funds are slim to none. We would like to ask for donations so that the "bird" with the blue cross can fly again. This helicopter is not only for climbers, but for hikers, skiers, all the tourists who visit Polish Tatras. We do not have a bank account in the United States yet. If anyone would like to help us in our quest, please contact Paul Szymanski at pawelszymanski@yahoo.com or at (847)-334-8623. Those of you who speak Polish could read about our initiative on our website www.smiglodlatatr.pl. The foundation is sponsored by Polish Alpine Association http://www.pza.org.pl .
We will appreciate any help and any donation. Anyone interested could make wire transfers to our bank account in Poland at the following address:
Fundacja Wspierania Alpinizmu Polskiego im. Jerzego Kukuczkiul.Noakowskiego 10/12 00-666 Warszawa
Bank Millennium
04 1160 2202 0000 0000 5515 5611
(attention "?mig?o")
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Vertical Times #60 (October Issue) is Online as a PDF
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The October issue of Vertical Times (volume 60) is online as a PDF file for downloading. The issue offers additional news and photos (not included in the Access Fund E-News). It can be downloaded directly (888 KB file) at https://www.accessfund.org/pdf/VT60.pdf
The Access Fund is still giving members the option of viewing Vertical Times online instead of receiving the paper version. This decreases printing and mailing costs, thus allocating more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. To take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, e-mail your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, 1920 members have chosen our online option - a savings of over $9600 per year to be utilized towards the Access Fund's Mission to preserve and conserve the climbing environment. You can download a PDF version of the current Vertical Times at http://www.accessfund.org/vertical_times/index.html (Adobe Acrobat is required)
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Wanted: Nostalgic Ice Tools
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The Access Fund is seeking "nostalgic" ice tools from the sixties, seventies or older to auction at the Ouray Ice Festival in January. If interested in donating any of your ice artifacts, please contact Michael Lindsey at Michael@accessfund.org
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