Access Fund E-News #54
April 2005
The Access Fund
E-News Online
Access Fund E-News #54
April 2005
The Access Fund
E-News Online
Now More Than Ever Arizona Climbers Need Your Help To Save Oak Flat
Access Fund Appeals Unlawful US Forest Service Climbing Ban at Cave Rock, Nevada
Our actions speak louder than words
Ibex, Utah bouldering and climbing threatened
Road Closure - Darington, Washington
Save Madrone
Access Fund supports the North American Rock Climbing survey
Featured Partner: Mountain Gear
The Access Fund Ropes Up with Adventure-comedy Film Tour Featuring Timmy O'Neill
Mountainfilm in Telluride
Access Fund Events Update
Vertical Times #63 (April Issue) is Online as a PDF
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A recent Access Fund Action Alert appealed to climbers from across the country asking them to write letters urging Congress to oppose the Southeast Arizona Land Exchange and Conservation Act of 2005. The act could lead to the destruction of Oak Flat and the single largest loss of climbing ever. In recent weeks the Access Fund met with Senator Jon Kyl (R-AZ) and Congressman Rick Renzi (R-AZ) thanks to the letters they've received from climbers who have stepped up. Both Kyl and Renzi indicated their intent to ensure the interests of the recreation community are addressed in this land exchange bill. However, we have yet to see any language in the draft bill that would maintain access to Oak Flat and climbers need to let their elected representatives understand the importance of this issue.
The more letters our elected officials receive, the higher a priority it becomes for them. While some climbers have stepped up to help save Oak Flat such as Peter Zurcher (http://www.accessfund.org/pdf/Zurcher_ltr.pdf), many more letters are needed--NOW! For more information on writing your Congressional representatives, see http://accessfund.org/display/page/AA/5 or email the Access Fund's Policy Director Jason Keith at jason@accessfund.org
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The Access Fund will appeal the ruling made by a federal judge upholding a decision by the US Forest Service (USFS) to ban climbing at Cave Rock. Cave Rock is a multi-use recreational area in Nevada on the shores of Lake Tahoe, and the Access Fund believes the climbing ban violates both the First Amendment to the U.S. Constitutional and the Administrative Procedure Act.
On December 15, 2003, the Access Fund filed suit in Nevada Federal District Court requesting the court overturn a USFS decision to ban climbing at Cave Rock. On January 28, 2005 a federal judge in Reno, Nevada ruled against the Access Fund's lawsuit. The Access Fund Board of Directors responded on March 15, 2005 by voting to appeal the district court's ruling to the Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals. On February 16, 2005 Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit Forest Supervisor Maribeth Gustafson signed an order to begin implementation of the climbing ban with the posting of signs to inform visitors of the prohibition. The USFS also announced its intent to remove the safety protection bolts found at Cave Rock even if the Access Fund appealed the federal judge's ruling. On March 28, 2005 the Access Fund filed its appeal with the Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals on the USFS ban.
According to the forest supervisor's decision, climbing is the only activity to be prohibited while other "compatible" recreational activities such as hiking, fishing, and picnicking will be allowed to continue because these other activities do not conflict with the "feeling and association" of Cave Rock. US Hwy 50, which runs through Cave Rock via a dynamited tunnel, lies just a few feet away from the climbing area. The Access Fund seeks a more balanced decision from the Ninth Circuit Appeals Court that would allow limited climbing at Cave Rock to continue in a way that does not negatively impact traditional Washoe religious practices.
The USFS's Final Environmental Impact Statement (FEIS) declares that Cave Rock "is being damaged by certain uses, including rock climbing." However, the same FEIS determines that the physical effect of climbing on Cave Rock is insignificant. This contradiction reveals that the physical impact of climbing is not the primary issue justifying the closure. Rather, as stated on page 3-19 of the FEIS, it is the mere "presence of rock climbers and their permanently implanted equipment . . . [that] diminishes the setting, feel and association" of Cave Rock.
"The Access Fund has a long and exemplary history of compromise on similar climbing access issues such as Devils Tower in Wyoming, and the Red River Gorge in Kentucky," stated Jason Keith, policy director for the Access Fund. "At both of these areas, land managers have found ways to balance the interests of recreational and cultural user groups." The Access Fund will continue to educate climbers on culturally sensitive climbing issues. For example, the Cave Rock climbing guidebook asks climbers to "Climb and behave in a respectful manner. Cave Rock is an important spiritual site to the Washoe. Either treat it with respect and reverence or leave." Despite the climbing community's ongoing efforts to create a mutually agreeable solution, the Access Fund is compelled to continue its challenge of the unlawful climbing ban and appeal the district court's ruling. Not doing so could create a legal precedent leading to future unreasonable and unnecessary closures of public lands nationwide. Check out http://www.accessfund.org/ for more information.
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Each spring the talk around the Nalgene bottle (the climber's version of the office water cooler) centers on raptor closures. As a climbing advocate the word closure probably makes you shutter. But wait - raptor closures are part of the seasonal cycle of climbing.
Most places have spring, summer, fall, and winter but many also have raptor season. The weather does not allow us to climb year round and neither do the birds. During raptor season it's necessary to avoid nesting areas so that the little newbie birds have a chance to start life on the right...err...wing. Adhering to seasonal closures is one way to show land managers we care about of the places we climb. And this directly affects access. This spring think raptor season and don't ruffle any feathers.
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(Report by Nathan Smith, Access Fund Regional Coordinator)
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In January 2005, part of the world famous bouldering area known as Ibex came under attack. Located 50 miles outside of Delta Utah, the Ibex area is composed of a mixture of BLM, State of Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands (SITLA). A Utah mining company has leased a section of land from SITLA in order to mine for silica. This parcel of land contains both bouldering and routes. Representatives from the Access Fund and the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance are working to try to preserve this climbing resource.
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Forest Service cites budget crisis and says Clear Creek road is not a high enough priority to justify repair. Climbers concerned about access are urged to get involved.
Right now, the road serving the nearly fifty-year old climbing area known as Darrington is closed by a concrete barrier. The road suffered severe washouts this past winter, and Forest Service work crews repaired the damage but the maintenance supervisor declared the repair "unsafe" and ordered the road closed. Climbers can still walk or bike up the road, but the trailhead for the most popular crag in the area is about five miles beyond the closure and the trailhead for Dreamer, the most famous climb in the area, is two miles beyond that. To read more about climbing at Darrington: http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr
The issues are purely monetary, and a matter of priorities. The District Ranger confirms there were no other management concerns and reports that he is aware of no environmental, safety, or police concerns ever associated with rock climbing in the Clear Creek drainage.
The Forest Service has not fully evaluated the situation, but we are told they believe the damaged area requires substantial work with heavy equipment and that the repair will be expensive. Roadway budgets for the next two years are severely strained, they tell us, and the Clear Creek road is not high enough on their list of priorities to justify spending that money on this repair. They have not made any formal decision.
Climbers were not consulted prior to the decision to close this road. In fact nobody was. The is no comment process or public consultation in this kind of management decision, but Forest Service staff members tell us that other user groups voice their interests and some have gotten their legislators involved or undertaken other organizational efforts in order to bump specific roads higher up on the list of priorities. We fear that if the road beyond the current closure is left completely unmaintained for two years, what are now minor problems will become major ones and there will be increased likelihood that they will decide to let the road go entirely. If you care about access to this historic climbing area known as Darrington, it is time to get involved.
The closure of a fifty-year old climbing area should not be taken lightly. We hope climbers will write or call to ask how we may help Forest Service officials obtain the funding they need in order to maintain access to the spectacular recreational resources in this area. We also hope climbers will voice their opposition to the closure of the Clear Creek Road. To read more about this at the Washington Climbers Coalition website please visit: http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Current/Darrroad.htm .
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The Madrone Wall, an amazing civic treasure, located on the edge of the Portland metropolitan area has been closed to rock climbing since the fall of 1997 when the County embarked on an ill conceived plan to quarry the site. The Madrone Wall Preservation Committee (MWPC) quickly formed as an all-volunteer, 501(c) 3 Oregon non-profit organization with four simple goals shortly thereafter: prevent the site from being quarried, re-establish outdoor recreational access including rock climbing, see it preserved for all time as a primitive park or open space, and, finally, to work as a parks advocacy group with the County in the future when it receives permanent protected status. The Access Fund has long been a critical partner in this access and preservation issue with important monetary grants and extensive volunteer support from Western Oregon Regional Coordinators Kellie Rice, Ian Caldwell, and Tony Holmes. Since 1999, the Access Fund has given multiple grants to support the MWPC and help preserve access to the Madrone Wall.
Recent developments at Clackamas County have set the County Parks Department and its citizen-led Parks Advisory Board (PAB) in motion to meet with community organizations, private rock quarries, and interested parties such as local climbing organizations, the Access Fund, the Mazamas, and the Ptarmigans to judge interest in mining the site versus establishing this unique site as a park. An appraisal of the property is also planned. By late October 2005, the PAB will be making a recommendation on the future of the Madrone Wall to the Board of Commissioners.
If you have an interest in preserving this site and re-establishing access, visit http://www.savemadrone.org for more info.
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Thanks in advance for your time and support!
This study is being conducted by the Department of Natural Resources at the School of Natural Resources, University of Arizona in collaboration with the Centre for Tourism Policy and Research at the School of Resources and Environmental Management, Simon Fraser University. The Access Fund and the Climbers Access Society of British Columbia support this study.
The survey takes approximately 15-20 minutes to complete. Only start the survey if you have the time to finish. All responses will be treated completely confidential. If you have questions or comments, follow the 'comments page' link on the first page of the survey.
The North American Rock Climbing Survey is a collaborative effort to understand how rock climbers use resources, travel, and make destination decisions. The Access Fund and over 16 local climbing advocacy groups throughout North America support this effort. This survey only samples climbers and depends on your participation. The results will be available to national, regional and local climbing advocacy groups. Let your voice be heard.
Please take the North American Rock Climbing survey at http://bonesaw.srnr.arizona.edu/climbing/naclimbsurvey.php
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A corporate partner since 1995, Mountain Gear works hard on the Access Fund's behalf. Getting people involved in the outdoors is one part business and two parts passion for Mountain Gear's chief Paul Fish.
Mountain Gear touches millions of climbers with a retail storefront in Spokane, WA, a thriving national catalog, and an online store. Fish takes this responsibility very seriously and knows that in order to have places to play for future generations the community must be strong now.
Rain and wind didn't come close to dampening the spirits of the climbing community March 18th-20th at the second annual Red Rock Rendezvous in Red Rocks, NV. Mountain Gear organized the three-day event with over 400 attendees from all over the world climbing together, as a community, in the middle of the desert.
Festival-goers had the option of participating in two half-day clinics, which were taught by over 30 of the top names in climbing. Access Fund ambassadors Conrad Anker, Tommy Caldwell (Access Fund Board Member), Malcolm Daly, Jim Donini, Jared Ogden, Beth Rodden, Mark Synnott, and Jack Tackle were just some of the instructors teaching skills from "leading for the chicken-hearted" to "climbing like a girl".
Proceeds from the Red Rock Rendezvous benefited the Access Fund, American Alpine Club and American Safe Climbing Organization and we thank Mountain Gear for putting on a world-class event. For Paul Fish the event's success is simple to gauge and it has nothing to do with money or overall attendance. When he found out that some of the attendees came from North Carolina to learn how to climb, Fish grinned ear to ear and announced the event a success. Here's to Mountain Gear for doing their part for the climbing community! For more on Mountain Gear and the Red Rock Rendezvous check out http://www.mgear.com/rrr/
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Climbing pros, outdoor enthusiasts, and their buddies won't want to miss the big-air antics of free climbing pro Timmy O'Neill in the hot new Peter Mortimer film Return2Sender - a "Warren Miller style," thrill-ride up some of the tightest cracks, intense faces, and amazing monoliths the west has to offer.
The Access Fund is proud to be along for the ride in this 90-minute picture featuring six short climbing films (including the previously released, highly acclaimed, palm sweating Parallelojams) presented by Montrail and distributed by Lenticular Pictures.
Return2Sender began a five state, 14-city western tour on Wednesday, April 13 at the Boulder Theater in Boulder, Colorado. Tickets for the tour are between $8 and $12 and are available at climbing retailers in each of the 14 cities. To see the trailer and tour dates, visit: http://www.return2sendermovie.com/
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Join Us for the 27th Annual
MOUNTAINFILM IN TELLURIDE
America's Premier Festival of Mountain Adventure presented in the West's Quintessential Mountain Town. Ringed by Colorado's Rugged San Juan Mountains.
GET ADRENALINE! MEET LEGENDS! GET INSPIRED!
Earlybird Special: Wilson Pass (entry to each program), $250; $300 after May 2
Dirtbag Sixpack: 2 pumped forearms, 6 shows, $110
Friday through Monday, May 27 through 30, 2005
BRING YOUR ROPE AND RACK, TOOLS AND SKIS!
MOUNTAINFILM IN TELLURIDE
PO Box 1088
Telluride, CO 81435
(970) 728 4123
www.mountainfilm.org
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Check out the latest Access Fund affiliated events
http://www.accessfund.org/events/reg.php
To streamline the events process, the AF has created a new page on the website under the EVENTS tab where interested people or groups can complete a webform for their event. If your event qualifies, membership materials and goodies may be sent additionally. All events the AF is involved with will be included on the event schedule. The deadline for event registration is one month prior to event. To register an event, visit: http://www.accessfund.org/events/index.php/
5/7 Smith Rock "Spring Thing" Volunteer Day Join the Smith Rock Group on Saturday, May 7th for a day of fun and work at world famous Smith Rock State Park. The event begins at 8am with registration at Smith Rock Park and concludes with a dinner, auction, and raffle. All money raised goes directly to fund future events, purchase project supplies, and to preserve your climbing future. For more info, http://www.smithrock.com/ or bm41@bendnet.com
5/19 Black Diamond Benefit for Salt Lake Climbers' Alliance:
Black Diamond Equipment Ltd., a global leader in climbing and backcountry gear, will host a party and fundraiser for the Salt Lake Climbers' Alliance (SLCA) on May 19th at its Salt Lake City campus (2084 East 3900 South). For more information on the Salt Lake Climbers' Alliance, visit http://www.saltlakeclimbers.org or email http://www.slca@saltlakeclimbers.org/
5/20-22 New River Rendezvous. The Rendezvous is a fun, friendly, down-home three-day celebration of climbers, climbing and the New River Gorge. Enjoy free camping on the rim of the Gorge courtesy of the National Park Service. Gather with friends, relax, compete, play, laugh and climb here in the laid back atmosphere of southern West Virginia, America's best kept secret! For more information, visit http://www.waterstoneoutdoors.com/
5/27--5/30 Telluride, CO. MOUNTAINFILM IN TELLURIDE America's Premier Festival of Mountain Adventure Presented in the West's Quintessential Mountain Town Ringed by Colorado's Rugged San Juan Mountains, (970) 728 4123, www.mountainfilm.org/
5/28--5/30 Acadia National Park, Bar Harbor, ME. Acadia Climbing Festival, http://www.nerock.com/
7/07--7/10 Lander, WY. International Climbers Fest, http://www.climbersfestival.org/
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The April issue of Vertical Times (volume 63) is online as a PDF file for downloading. The issue offers additional news and photos (not included in the Access Fund E-News). It can be downloaded from http://www.accessfund.org/news/vt.php/ (Adobe Acrobat is required).
The Access Fund is still giving members the option of viewing Vertical Times online instead of receiving the paper version. This decreases printing and mailing costs, thus allocating more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. To take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, e-mail your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, 2123 members have chosen our online option - a savings of over $10,600 per year to be utilized towards the Access Fund's Mission to preserve and conserve the climbing environment.
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