Access Fund E-News #55
May 2005
The Access Fund
E-News Online
Access Fund E-News #55
May 2005
The Access Fund
E-News Online
Access Fund Server Down
Rumbling Bald, NC Preserved for Climbing as a State Park
"The New" Threatened By Large Housing Development Proposal
Jamestown Purchase and Ribbon Cutting Ceremony
New Jersey Statewide Climber Meeting
Action Alert Helps Preserve Access to Darrington Climbing Area, Washington
Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain, NY Raptor Closures
Montana Climbers: Save Climbing on Bozeman Pass forever
Adopt-a-Crag 2005 Challenge
Access Fund Supports The North American Rock Climbing Survey
Access Fund Staff Update
Access Fund Events Update
Vertical Times #63 (April Issue) is Online as a PDF
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Due to a server malfunction, the Access Fund has not received emails since Wednesday May 18th. Our IT staff is hard at work doing everything we can to restore the server and email as soon as possible. We will send you a message when our email is working. For immediate assistance, please call 303-545-6772. Note: this problem does not affect merchandise/membership purchases or any of the forms on our website. In sum, our phones, fax machine and website are fully functional at this time - only email is not working.
Thank you for your understanding,
Access Fund Staff
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Rumbling Bald, NC Preserved for Climbing as a State Park
(Report by Sean Coburn at carolinaclimbers.org )
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On Thursday, May 26th, North Carolina Governor Easley signed Bill 586 authorizing Hickory Nut Gorge State Park, which includes Rumbling Bald.
This is great news for climbers. While it will be a multi-year process, with much work left to do, such as fund raising etc., the climbing community is one step closer to protecting a place that is near and dear to our hearts. Thank you to everyone who has donated time or money and thanks to all of you who took the time to call and write your legislators. You made the difference.
This is great news, however, the push is not over. Stay tuned to carolinaclimbers.org / for more information in the coming months.
If you have fundraising opportunities/ideas to share, please email Brandon Calloway at bcalloway@carolinaclimbers.org .
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"The New" Threatened By Large Housing Development Proposal
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In mid-January 2005 the Atlanta-based Land Resource Companies (LRC) first detailed plans for their Roaring River Development that proposes the construction of 2,200 upscale homes on 4,300 acres along the rim of the New River Gorge. The development could be visible from several popular overlooks on the east side of the Gorge such as Diamond Point on the Endless Wall and Babcock State Park. There are several points across the river from which the development would be visible and forever change the public's view shed. Some climbing access trails could also be affected. For a map of the proposal, visit nps.gov/neri/pdf/proposed_sub_fay.pdf
The land at issue is currently undeveloped and protected by Fayette County's zoning laws for land conservation. Therefore, LRC must first file an application for rezoning asking that approximately 4,300 acres be changed in zoning from "rural residential and land conservation" to "planned unit development." The proposed site lies within the park's boundaries, which were last modified in 2002 to include the 613-acre parcel at issue (as well as an adjacent privately-owned 649-acre tract). The National Park Service previously requested funds to acquire the property in order to preserve the natural, historic and scenic values of the area, but federal funding wasn't freed up to close the deal thus leading to LRC's proposal.
In late February, thanks to aggressive community activism opposing the proposal, LRC withdrew its application for rezoning immediately prior to a scheduled hearing before the Fayette County Planning Commission. LRC remains confident that Fayette County will eventually approve its project, and it intends to present a revised rezoning application and development proposal to the Fayette County Planning Commission later this year.
WHAT YOU CAN DO
- Support the New River Alliance of Climbers. For more information contact the folks at Waterstone Outdoors: (304) 574-2425
waterstoneoutdoors.com - NRAC website coming soon!
- Let the Fayette County Planning Commission know you oppose this development and the required rezoning application that LRC may resubmit. Send written comments to the Fayette County Planning Commission, Fayette County Courthouse, PO Box 307, Fayetteville, WV 25840. For a sample letter, see American Whitewater's website:
americanwhitewater.org/archive/article/1281/
For more information, also check out the following websites:
National Park Service: nps.gov/neri/pphtml/newsdetail16825.html
National Committee for the New River:
Rockclimbing.com:
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Jamestown Purchase and Ribbon Cutting Ceremony
(Report by Brad McLeod from seclimbers.org )
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On Friday, May 6th, 2005, the Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC) purchased and completed the closing on the Jamestown tract (3.14 acres, 1,550 linear feet) in northeast Alabama. The Jamestown climbing cliff has been closed to the public since 1993 due to an access dispute with a local landowner.
The SCC would like to thank all of the volunteers, donors and sponsors who have helped to make this project a reality. Without them, this cliff would still be off limits to the public. In particular, the SCC would like to thank Michelle Connell and her family for helping with trail work, anchors, t-shirt design and general support. Jeremy Boydston for anchor installation, kiosk construction and overall good attitude. Gus Fontenot for all the up front legal work and coordination with the landowner. The SCC thanks these climbers and all of our great volunteer army. We would also like to thank the Access Fund for their $5,000.00 donation to help with the remaining outstanding balance.
On Saturday, May 7th, over 20 climbers showed up early in the morning to help with some minor trail maintenance on the trail at Jamestown. Many of the climbers were from the Atlanta Climbing Club who also brought a check for $410 to help out with the project. Jeremy Boydston and crew showed off their handy work by installing a new kiosk alongside the trail. A few more details and the kiosk will be ready to post up info about the area.
The Jamestown tract was purchased in full for $19,290.00 with closing cost totaling $603.50. Insurance for the hiking easement to cross Alabama Power land cost $260.00. For more info visit, seclimbers.org/
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New Jersey Statewide Climber Meeting
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Sunday, June 5, 2005
Weiss Ecology Center
West Milford, NJ
Hosted by: AccessNJ
AccessNJ, a grassroots climbing advocacy group is holding a statewide meeting for climbers interested in learning more about the various climbing access and stewardship issues in the state. The meeting will be held at the Weiss Ecology Center on Snake Den Rd. near West Milford from 8:30am - 12:00pm. For more information, please contact John Anderson at mclimbnj@climbnj.com or visit climbnj.com .
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Action Alert Helps Preserve Access to Darrington Climbing Area, Washington
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Last month the Washington Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund issued an Action Alert on the impending closure of the road providing access into the Darrington climbing area. Thanks in part to the swift and timely response from climbers in the form of calls and letters, the Forest Service will be doing repairs to the Clear Creek road, and access will be maintained for the near future.
The Access Fund helped make this access victory occur with its Action Alert in the April E-News #54: "You can tell your friends to stop calling us now; we're going to have a contractor start repairs on the road next week," said the USFS Roadway Supervisor of Clear Creek Road. The success epitomizes climbing activism. Thanks to all of you that responded to the alert!
For more information on how you can help advocate for long term access into this area, please visit: washingtonclimbers.org .
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Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain, NY Raptor Closures
(Report from rockclimbing.com )
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There are new route closures at Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain, NY due to peregrine falcon nesting. Rock climbing routes will be closed effective April 18, 2005 and will remain closed until July 15 -- or further notice. Notices of any changes to this closure will be posted weekly at:
dec.state.ny.us/website/reg5/closedroutes.html
For other closures/restrictions nationwide, visit:
accessfund.org and click on the state you're interested in
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Montana Climbers: Save Climbing on Bozeman Pass forever
(Report from Ted Lange, Southwest Montana Climbers' Coalition)
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We have an once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to permanently conserve 2055 acres on Bozeman Pass, including the popular climbing area on the north side of the Pass. The Gallatin Valley Land Trust and the Trust for Public Land have been working on this landmark conservation project for five years, and now they need your help to complete it.
The project will provide the opportunity to create a permanent safe access to the climbing area on the north side of I-90, as well as a new public trail on the south side, starting near the Trail Creek exit, and accessing the dramatic rocky slopes of Chestnut Mountain and the thousands of acres of public lands beyond. In addition to these important access opportunities, the project will conserve large tracts of land on both side of I-90, protecting the scenic entryway to the Gallatin Valley, as well as critical wildlife habitat, providing a keystone piece of an important wildlife migration corridor.
We're asking Congress for Federal Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF) dollars to complete this project. In the next few weeks Congress will be deciding which projects to fund with LWCF dollars for fiscal year 2006. We need to make sure Bozeman Pass gets on the list. The Montana Congressional delegation needs to hear from people throughout the area. So please contact the Montana Delegation today! Here's how:
CALL, FAX or EMAIL Senators Burns and Baucus and Representative Rehberg BEFORE MAY 31. Please don't send letters! Letters take so long to go through the anthrax screening that by the time they're delivered, the LWCF funding decisions will have already been made. In a few sentences, state why you believe this is important, and urge them to support $2,250,000 for Bozeman Pass funded through the Land and Water Conservation Fund in the fiscal year 2006 Interior Appropriations bill. Continue scrolling down this email for additional information about this incredible conservation opportunity.
For more information please contact:
Ted Lange, Land Conservation Program Coordinator
Gallatin Valley Land Trust
PO Box 7021
Bozeman, MT 59771
406-587-8404 x108
ted@gvlt.org
gvlt.org
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Adopt-a-Crag 2005 Challenge
(Submitted by Deanne Buck, Grassroots Coordinator)
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From Alaska to Georgia, Maine to California, Adopt-a-Crag is captivating the country like a superhero. While we might not all climb like Batman, Batwoman, or even Tommy Caldwell, together we will attempt to climb the 120 feet of Flex Luthor (metaphorically speaking of course because, umm, Flex Luthor is Tommy's 5.15a superhuman route) where each foot is represented by an Adopt-a-Crag event. From over-the-head kneebars, hand jams, finger locks, and thumbstacks, we all bring our own expertise that will enable us to jointly climb the incipient crack. As with all visions for success, we can't do it alone. We need the entire climbing community to join in this effort. Through a communal effort we can top-out and become the adventure heroes we have always known we are.
Adopt-a-Crag is an excellent avenue for building alliances and partnerships and to plan for the future. Be it a crag clean up of 8 volunteers or a fundraiser, comp, and trail work day with 100 volunteers Adopt-a-Crag is about giving back to those places we love and use on a regular basis. Adopt-a-Crag inspires activism, advocacy, volunteerism, and stewardship. In the five years since the inception of Adopt-a-Crag, climbers around the country have built and restored thousands of miles of trails, hauled tons of trash, and completed thousands of conservation initiatives.
We have, once again, expanded Adopt-a-Crag to encompass the entire month of September. We made this change to encourage organizers to schedule their Adopt-a-Crag event on a day that works best for their community and to partner with other organizations. Click to download your Adopt-a-Crag Manual (accessfund.org/pdf/adopt2005.pdf) and register online at accessfund.org /adopt/
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Access Fund Supports The North American Rock Climbing Survey
Please take the North American Rock Climbing survey
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Thanks in advance for your time and support!
This study is being conducted by the Department of Natural Resources at the School of Natural Resources, University of Arizona in collaboration with the Centre for Tourism Policy and Research at the School of Resources and Environmental Management, Simon Fraser University. The Access Fund and the Climbers Access Society of British Columbia support this study.
The survey takes approximately 15-20 minutes to complete. Only start the survey if you have the time to finish. All responses will be treated completely confidential. If you have questions or comments, follow the 'comments page' link on the first page of the survey.
The North American Rock Climbing Survey is a collaborative effort to understand how rock climbers use resources, travel, and make destination decisions. The Access Fund and over 16 local climbing advocacy groups throughout North America support this effort. This survey only samples climbers and depends on your participation. The results will be available to national, regional and local climbing advocacy groups. Let your voice be heard.
*If the link does not work, copy and paste this link bonesaw.srnr.arizona.edu/climbing/naclimbsurvey.php
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The Access Fund is pleased to announce the hire of Whitney Self as the new Director of Development. Whitney comes to the Access Fund as the former Development Director of Colorado Conservation Voters. Prior to that she served as the Deputy Campaign Manager and functioned as Political Director and Lobbyist for SEIU.
"We are excited to have Whitney join the Access Fund team. Her professional experience and energy are perfect for her new job and she adds a fresh perspective to our advocacy work," says Steve Matous, Executive Director. Whitney will be responsible for fundraising strategy and philanthropic support of major donors and foundations.
Whitney has a BA in Political Science and a minor in Environmental Ethics from the University of Georgia. She will be joining the Access Fund fulltime at the Boulder office beginning June 1st.
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Check out the latest Access Fund affiliated events:
accessfund.org/events/events.php
To streamline the events process, the AF has created a new page on the website under the EVENTS tab where interested people or groups can complete a webform for their event. If your event qualifies, membership materials and goodies may be sent additionally. All events the AF is involved with will be included on the event schedule. The deadline for event registration is one month prior to event. To register an event, visit:
accessfund.org/events/index.php/
5/27-5/30 Telluride, CO. Mountainfilm In Telluride America's Premier Festival of Mountain Adventure Presented in the West's Quintessential Mountain Town Ringed by Colorado's Rugged San Juan Mountains, (970) 728-4123, mountainfilm.org
5/28-5/30 Acadia National Park, Bar Harbor, ME. Acadia Climbing Festival, nerock.com/
7/07-7/10 Lander, WY. International Climbers Fest, climbersfestival.org/
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Vertical Times #63 (April Issue) is Online as a PDF
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The April issue of Vertical Times (volume 63) is online as a PDF file for downloading. The issue offers additional news and photos (not included in the Access Fund E-News). It can be downloaded from accessfund.org/news/vt.php (Adobe Acrobat is required).
Viewing Vertical Times online instead of receiving the paper version decreases printing and mailing costs, thus allocating more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. To take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, e-mail your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.
Presently, 2123 members have chosen our online option - a savings of over $10,600 per year to be utilized towards the Access Fund's Mission to keep climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment.
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AF E-NEWS POLICIES:
1. The Access Fund office in Boulder, CO is the only source of outgoing messages to the lists.
2. The AF will not sell or give away email addresses of AF E-News subscribers.
3. AF E-News is an announcement-only monthly e-mail list; therefore, you cannot reply to any of the list members.
4. All e-mail addresses will remain confidential with every mail sent.