Access Fund E-News #61
November 2005
The Access Fund
THE
BETA
2005 Access Fund Sharp End Awards
Southern California Fixed Anchor Ban Dropped
Tucson Climber Acquitted In Illegal Bolting
Trial
Your Comments Make A Difference! Deadline Is
December 15th
Open Space Bond Passes To Create A New Park: Reimers
Minnesota Climbers Work for More Climbing
Access
Oregon Update: Save Madrone Wall
Mt Hood
Wilderness Area Receives Praise and Development
Spotlight: Making Your Money Walk The Talk
Staffing News and Job Announcements
YOUR
BACKYARD IS OUR BACKYARD
ROCK IS
FINITE KEEP ACCESS INFINITE
The Access
Fund, corporate partners, regional coordinators, and affiliates, invite YOU to
join in the Climbing Resource Challenge.
Every dollar
that you give to the Access Fund between November 1st and the end of the year
will be matched by a combination of corporate sponsors and current AF
supporters.
This is an
opportunity for you to double your giving to keep climbing areas open and
conserve the climbing environment.
TAKE THE
CHALLENGE TODAY
On a national
level the Access Fund affects policy that touches climbers across the country.
On a local level, we support climbers with grants for projects and provide
resources for local climbing organizations, in their work to keep your local
crag open. But what we can do is only as strong as our members.
SUPPORT IS
HOW SUCCESS IS ACCOMPLISHED
The number of
climbers continues to increase and with this comes increased access issues.
These issues could prevent you from being able to do what you love. We depend
on you to help build our resources. Only 1% of all climbers contribute to
the Access Fund. The
number one reason people arenÕt members is that Òthey havenÕt gotten around
to itÓ. Please get around
to it now so that we can all keep climbing.
WE CHALLENGE
YOU TO BECOME A MEMBER
Become a
member of the Access Fund
today. ItÕs quick and painless and the future of climbing depends on you. If
you are already a member, consider stepping up your support with an additional
donation and talk to others about becoming a member.
You can
Pledge your support at any level with a one time annual contribution or become
a monthly donor for as little as $5/month.
ItÕs easy to
give:
Piggy Bank
Pledge — $7/month
Save or find one quarter a
day. 25 cents x 7 x 4 x 12 = $91
Latte
Promise — $10/month
Skip your morning latte once
per week. $2.50 x 4 x 12 = $120
Brown Bag
Commitment — $20/month
Take your lunch to work once
per week. $5 x 4 x 12 = $240
One Tank
Difference — $40/month
Donate the equivalent of one
tank of gas per month. $40 x 12 = $480
EVERYTHING
HELPSÉ
Since 1990, the
Access Fund has been the only national advocacy organization that keeps
climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund
supports and represents over 1.6 million climbers nationwide in ALL forms of
climbing; Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, and Bouldering.
Urge your
Senators to Block the Sale of Our Public Lands
Last week we told
you that the US House of Representatives was considering a proposal to sell off
millions of acres of national forests, parks and other public lands as a means
to reduce the federal deficit and ÒreformÓ the 1872 Mining Law at the same
time. Once sold, these public
lands become private, potentially fencing out climbers and the millions of recreational
enthusiasts that regularly use them.
In the early
hours of November 18, by a vote of 217-215, the U.S. House of Representatives
approved the budget reconciliation bill, which contains the mining provisions
introduced by House Resources Committee Chairman Richard Pombo (R-California)
that allow land speculators and multi-national mining and energy corporations
to take ownership of millions of acres of our federal public lands. For specific bill language, go to http://thomas.loc.gov and reference H.R. 4241.
What this
means for climbers is
that we could lose access to any climbing area located on or next to any
existing mining claim, including the access trails to your favorite crag at
places like Oak Flat, AZ; Grand Canyon, AZ; Indian Creek, UT;
Canyonlands NP, UT; Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT; Darrington, WA; Tensleep
Canyon, WY; Telluride, CO; Boulder Canyon, CO; Bishop, CA; Mt. Charleston, NV;
and the Black Hills, SD. Once sold, these lands—which belong
to the American people and are enjoyed by millions of private recreational
users each year—could become off limits for climbing, boating, hiking,
and any other recreational use.
ÒThis is a loss
for the millions of Americans who recreate on western public lands,Ó said
Access Fund policy director Jason Keith.
ÒThis land grab means that climbers, mountain bikers and hikers could
lose the free and open access to the unspoiled forests and backcountry that
they currently enjoy.Ó
Now What?
The bill now
moves to conference committee where selected individuals from the US House and
Senate will decide on the final budget reconciliation bill. The Senate
version of the budget bill does not have this privatization provision, and thus
it is crucial that we call our US Senators and urge them to prevent these
mining ÒreformÓ provisions from becoming law. The representation on this committee is not yet decided, and
thus the whole Senate is our lobbying target until the conferees have been
decided.
Your call to
Congress could save your public lands access. Call both of your US Senators (go to http://www.visi.com/juan/congress/ to find your Senators) today and stress
the following points:
á If passed, this law would make the 1872
Mining Law worse, by placing climbing areas and other special places
at risk by allowing mining companies to purchase mining claims even if they are
within a protected area such as national parks or wilderness areas.
á As much as 20 million acres out of 270
million acres of public land cold be sold off. This mining ÒreformÓ
proposal, which has not received adequate publicly debate, should receive
public hearings in the relevant resource committees rather than being slipped
through Congress in a budget reconciliation bill.
á If this provision is approved, any land
speculator could buy our public lands for as low as $1,000 per acre, and the
land would not even have to be mined—any corporation could buy these lands
and use them for any purpose. As
much as 270 million acres could be threatened under this proposal and, adding
insult to injury, these sales could happen with no public input from the
recreational users that frequent these special places.
á
Please oppose
the mining ÒreformÓ provisions in the Budget Reconciliation bill (H.R. 4241).
Each
year the Access Fund recognizes individuals and businesses who volunteer their
efforts and shine above the rest in their commitment and work on behalf of the
American climbing community. This yearÕs awards and recipients are:
Sharp End Award
For
leadership and activism in conserving climbing access and the climbing
environment.
John
Anderson
John
is the founder of Access New Jersey, a statewide climbing advocacy group. John
is also a volunteer regional coordinator for the Access Fund. John was
successful in getting the state of NJ to amend their administrative code to
allow climbing in state parks, and he has been working to expand climbing
access in NJ by removing unnecessary regulations.
Bennett
Barthelemy
Founder,
organizer and leader of the Bigfoot Country Climbers Association in Northern
California, Bennett has represented climber interests on National Park Service
land in Redwood, US Forest Service land at Natural Bridge (Hayfork District),
county parks (Moonstone Beach), and other public lands with tribal concerns
(Natural Bridge, Lost Rocks, etc).
Bennett is an effective and dedicated climbing activist who works to
educate the local climbing community regardng sensitive sacred site issues on
public lands.
Keith
Daellenbach
Keith
is a director with the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee, a non-profit
organization dedicated to the long-term preservation of Madrone Wall for the
enjoyment of future generations. Keith was instrumental in forming the
organization, and has provided years of tireless leadership in the ongoing
effort to protect this outstanding recreational resource in northwest Oregon.
Mike
Lanza
Mike
is a director with the Boise Climbers Alliance, a climbing advocacy group based
in Boise, Idaho. In that capacity, he has provided inspirational leadership for
the Boise climbing community for many years. Mike was also a volunteer regional
coordinator for the Access Fund, and was instrumental in organizing numerous
stewardship projects at the Black Cliffs.
Metolius is recognized for its
contributions of staff time, resources and financial support to our advocacy
work. Encouragement of Metolius staff to get involved through direct advocacy and MetoliusÕ own
efforts on behalf of the American climbing community are outstanding. Examples include donations of catalog
pages to communicate about the boulderProject and other access and conservation
issues, direct involvement with activist forums, help in constructing
messaging, and communication outreach on Metolius products to mentor boulderers
in stewardship and conservation.
Patagonia began its support of our
mission in 1990 with initial organizational seed money from Yvon Chouinard.
Their exemplary support continues with the encouragement of Patagonia ambassadors to get involved
and work with the Access Fund, opportunities at dealer camps for Access Fund
staff to engage retailers who communicate everyday with the greater public, and
financial support for all our advocacy work -- most recently to help with our
fight against a land exchange in Arizona that would give precious public lands
to an international mining company -- underscores the significance of their contributions.
Chris
Sharma, Josh and Brett Lowell
Chris,
Josh, and Brett, of Big Up Productions created a 30 second film short
featuring Chris bouldering in a pristine environment, ticking a first
ascent, and discussing the need for conservation. Additionally, Big Up donated
an image used in collateral and have been instrumental in helping shape the
boulderProjectÕs messaging. Through their outstanding commitment in
volunteering their time and talent, the boulderProject is educating
climbers, uniting the climbing community, and bringing the mission of the
Access Fund to new climbers.
Land Manager of The Year
Given
to a professional resource manager who has demonstrated a commitment to
conserving climbing opportunities and a progressive approach to public lands
management.
Lincoln
Else,
Climbing Ranger Yosemite National Park
This
summer Lincoln developed a grant proposal to fund climber bear boxes for
Yosemite Valley. These boxes allow climbersÕ food and gear to remain protected
while spending time on the big walls of Yosemite. He is instrumental in outreach efforts between the NPS in
Yosemite and the climbing community (e.g., Sunday morning coffee hour) and
spearheaded the countryÕs largest Adopt-a-Crag this fall- The Yosemite Valley
Facelift 2005 which removed 3 ½ tons of garbage from Yosemite NP.
Lincoln has been influential in bringing the Access Fund and the American
Alpine Club into NPS planning decisions and processes and played the key role
in enhancing the relationship between climbers and NPS rangers in Yosemite.
Reese
Martin Memorial Award Regional Coordinator Of The Year For leadership and activism in conserving
climbing access and the climbing environment, and specifically for their
volunteer work as an Access Fund representative.
Sean
Coburn
Sean
has contributed significant efforts in the purchase of private lands to open
access to climbing and protect these climbing resources from development and
permanent closure. Rumbling Bald
will become a State Park in North Carolina because of the coalition building
and negotiations spearheaded by Sean. Laurel Knob, the largest (over 1,000 ft
high) piece of granite east of the Mississippi, will now be open to climbing
again thanks to Sean and the coalition he has put in place.
The Bebie Leadership Award
Presented
to AmericaÕs outstanding activist(s) for the cause of conserving climbing
access and the climbing environment.
Curt
Shannon
Curt
is a founding member and dedicated spokesperson for the Friends of Queen Creek
and is always available while balancing family life and a demanding day job. He
has donated hundreds of hours of volunteer time including two trips to
Washington, DC lobbying Congress on the Southeastern Arizona Land Exchange
Act of 2005,
organizing local activists in letter writing campaigns and political strategy,
meeting with Resolution Copper Company as a local representative in
negotiations for Oak Flat and Queen Creek access and much more than we can
encapsulate here.
Menocal Lifetime Achievement Award
Presented
periodically to individuals who have demonstrated remarkable commitment to the
cause of conserving climbing access and the climbing environment, and who have
contributed substantially to the progress of the Access Fund over many years.
David
Rosenstein
Dave
has been involved with climbing access and conservation issues and the Access
Fund itself since its formation.
Over these 15 years Dave has provided countless hours of volunteer time
both organizing climbers to be effective advocates and directly advocating on
many issues. Examples of his
successes include: obtaining funding for the Mohonk Trust to allow for the
purchase of additional climbing resources and his significant work to open
Minnewaska State Park (NY) to climbing. His work as a volunteer for the Access
Fund goes from being a regional coordinator, to action committee chair, Board
member and Board president. Dave has truly devoted his life to climbing and
embodies the spirit of this award.
For
volunteerism and support in conserving climbing access and the climbing
environment
Dave
Gentry
Dave
spends more time volunteering on projects in support of the American climbing
community than any other person we know. With out prompting and on a regular
basis Dave will tackle a myriad of tasks, many of which would go undone without
his help. His selfless devotion benefits all of us and his unassuming nature is
one to look up to.
Roger
Linfield
Roger
has been a member of the Access Fund since its inception and
has, annually, made a significant personal investment in furthering
the mission of the Access Fund. As a volunteer Roger put in many hours to
review and revise our most current Raptor Manual which is distributed to
land managers across the country. Additionally, Roger authored our 2005 Spring
appeal in support of our core programs. We are grateful to Roger's 15+
years of service to the Access Fund.
REGIONAL
NEWS
Last year the Access Fund issued an action alert to
climbers and drafted comments for revisions to a forest plan revision in the
San Bernardino National Forest in Southern California that proposed to ban
fixed anchors in wilderness. With
a major assist from Randy
Vogel and other southern California locals, climbers succeeded in removing the
proposed ban from the final plan. In September, the San Bernardino
National Forest announced
that two sentences in the draft plan proposing a ban on fixed anchor bolts for
rock climbing caused a deluge of comments from the climbing community,
including climbers in Switzerland and Australia! After further study and
coordination, the Forest chose to drop the proposed standard and tier to
forthcoming Forest Service fixed anchor national direction. Rock climbing is
suitable in all zones. The Access Fund continues to work with US Forest
Service officials in Washington, DC regarding a national policy that could be
finalized next year which acknowledges the legitimacy of new fixed anchor
placements in designated wilderness areas.
In early November Access Fund policy director Jason Keith
traveled to Tucson, Arizona to assist in a trial defending local climber Chris
Craig from a flawed prosecution charging him with illegal bolting on US Forest
Service Land on Mount Lemmon. Local Tucson attorney Scott McNamara skillfully
presented a case that convinced the court that the charge should be dismissed.
The Access Fund viewed this case as potentially precedent-setting if a federal
court determined that fixed anchors were illegal even on general US Forest
land. In Tucson, the prosecuting attorney and US Forest Service witnesses
confirmed in testimony that it is not illegal to place new fixed anchors on
public land. The Access Fund will continue to oppose local field-level
interpretations of federal land management policy to ensure consistency and
fairness in climbing management policy.
In October Access Fund policy director Jason Keith and
Friends of Queen Creek (FoQC) member Curt Shannon met with congressional
officials and representatives of Resolution Copper Company (RCC) to discuss the
future of climbing access at Oak Flat and Queen Creek, Arizona.
Meeting in Phoenix on October 12, the AF and FoQC
discussed the potential for a recreational use license at Oak Flat with RCC and
their contractors the Western Land Group who have been working towards a land
exchange bill (see http://accessfund.org/display/page/AA/14) that would
transfer this popular bouldering area to mining interests. Also discussed at this meeting, which
was attended by several staff members from the offices of US Senators Kyl and
McCain and Representative Renzi, was providing for continued public access to
the popular climbing areas known as Atlantis and The Pond which are currently
owned outright by RCC. At press
time the AF just received a draft of the license proposal from RCC and we hope
to secure a favorable agreement in the next few months.
The National Park Service
has released a draft General Management Plan (GMP) and Environmental Impact
Statement (EIS) for Great Falls Park* and is currently accepting public
comments until December 15. Anyone who has ever climbed at Great Falls is
encouraged to send comments to Audrey Calhoun, Superintendent, George
Washington Memorial Parkway, mailto:GWMP-superintendent@nps.gov, with a copy to greatfallsaccess@gmail.com.
The plan evaluates two alternatives for the park. The parkÕs preferred alternative
(B), as written, would severely and unnecessarily restrict climbing in the park
by making some popular climbing areas off-limits, forcing climbers to use a
limited number of fixed anchors installed by the park, and possibly requiring
climbers to compete for a limited number of climbing permits. The
climbing community is concerned that the draft GMP, specifically the preferred
alternative, was created on an unscientifically-substantiated belief that
climbers, who are one of the smallest and most environmentally conscious group
of park visitors, have a serious impact on the parkÕs resources and must be
regulated.
Based on public input during the comment period, the park will prepare a Final
GMP/EIS where they will either select Alternative A or B as the preferred
course of action, modify the alternative based on comments received, or explore
additional alternatives. For more information, please email greatfallsaccess@gmail.com, or visit www.friendsofgreatfalls.com http://www.friendsofgreatfalls.com
http://parkplanning.nps.gov/commentForm.cfm?projectID=12998&documentId=12262
*Great Falls is the closest climbing area to Washington DC and is an important
regional climbing resource. Many climbing organizations in the DC Metro area
have come together to create a unified voice on behalf of the climbing
community under the umbrella of the Friends of Great Falls www.friendsofgreatfalls.com. This coalition includes representatives
from Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, the Blue Ridge Section of the American
Alpine Club, DC Outdoor Rock Climbers, Sheclimbs, Sportrock, and the Access
Fund.
John Myrick, Central
Texas Mountaineers
Travis County, TX
The Travis County parks
and open space bonds passed November 8th with a 66% margin. According to Travis Co. Parks Director
Charles Bergh, if everything goes as planned, Reimer's could be operating as a
county park by the time Vertical Times 67 goes to press! Thanks to everyone who volunteered
their time and energy to help make this happen (including everyone who voted in
the election).
Kaija Webster,
Minnesota RC
Sandstone, MN
Robinson Park in
Sandstone, Minnesota has long been an unofficial destination for rock, ice and
mixed climbers in the Great Lakes region. Local climbers including Jeff Engel,
Nic Beltrante and Tony Vavricka have made great strides in working with park
and city officials to allow climbing in the park by opening a dialog with the
managers and organizing climbers for volunteer service days. Their advocacy has
helped the Park change its stance from 'no climbing allowed' to clearing brush
from cliff bases, planning for fixed anchor placements and farming ice from
their pump station. A ground-breaking first Sandstone Ice Festival is scheduled
for December 10-11, 2006. Nice work!
Kellie Rice,
Oregon RC and Keith Daellenbach
Portland, OR
Good progress is
being made towards the preservation of Madrone Wall, located close to Portland
Metro area. It is anticipated that the Parks Advisory Board will make a formal
recommendation to the Clackamas County Commissioners endorsing the preservation
of and access to the area, which was closed to public access by the County in
1997 as part of a quarry plan. The Commissioners are then expected to review
the recommendation and make a final decision by early 2006. Public input and
support of the reopening of this great resource is still important. You can
find a copy of a sample petition letter along with Clackamas County contact
information on the homepage of the MWPC website at www.savemadrone.org. In
addition, it is important to observe and abide by the ÒNo TrespassingÓ
ordinance until this process is finalized. Thank you to all who have contributed and wrote in the past,
together we will re-open another great climbing resource.
Tony Holmes,
Oregon RC
Mt. Hood, OR
Mt. Hood has never had a reputation
of solid rock nor easy access, but hidden amongst the canopies of Douglas fir
and Cedar are scores of Andosite and Basalt formations holding classic lines
and backcountry adventures to rival any on the west coast.
French's Dome is the most popular of
these crags, containing a high concentration of quality sport lines from 5.6-
5.13. However, erosion is an ever-present force on the belay platforms and
approach trails. Thanks to a $6,000 grant from the Access Fund and another
$54,000 from the USFS, renovation will be done to address the areaÕs heavy use
and insure an enjoyable experience for generations to come. According to
Mary-Ellen Fitzgerald of the USFS, ground breaking on this collaborative
project will begin by spring of 2006.
You did it again. You renewed
your Access Fund membership! Why? Just curious – was it the grant your
local crag got from the AF this year? Was it Timmy OÕNeill on the microphone?
Was it because you know that we all share the same backyard? Was it because you
realized you spend more on your cable bill than protecting your passion of
climbing? Was it because you want your kids to cruise the same lines that you
cruise?
Well, from the bottom of the
climbing communityÕs guts, we thank you.
Now what? You gave your money
and youÕre off to the crag? Good, thatÕs what you should do but youÕre an AFer
now and we want you to get the most out of your membership!
Spotlighter asks:
Your backyard is our backyard
and there are countless issues around the country that require financial
resources that you make possible by becoming a member.
We know what it takes to step
up and contribute your hard earned money and you have our promise that we will
do everything we can to make your contribution work as hard as possible to keep
your climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment.
L8tr,
Spotlighter
Hook up your climbing
partner, niece, nephew, daughter, son, or neighbor kid this holiday season with
an Access Fund Gift Pack!
STANDARD AF GIFT PACK = $40.00 ($64.85 retail value)
1 Liter Nalgene Bottle filled
with:
One-year AF Membership
Omega Pacific Classic Locking ÔBiner
MSR Titanium Spoon & Fork set
Sticker pack & Mini Clif Bars
DELUXE
AF GIFT PACK = $60.00 ($84.85 retail value)
AF T Shirt + Standard Gift Pack
To
order: www.accessfund.org/secure/giving.php
or call Kerry toll-free at 888-8-MEMBER (888-863-6237) x106.
Are you a
federal employee? Did you know you
could donate to The Access Fund through the federal governmentÕs Combined
Federal Campaign (CFC)?
Federal
employees, including federal civilians, military personnel, and U.S. Postal
Service workers, can now donate to AF through the federal government's Combined
Federal Campaign (CFC). The CFC is a charitable fundraising program where you
give to the Access Fund through automatic payroll deductions.
If
you are a federal employee, please look for the Access Fund (agency # 2361) in
the official CFC listing of eligible donors. You can also make your
contribution on-line by going to: www.conservenow.org, click on
Search for a Charity, type in the Access Fund and make your contribution there.
If
you have additional questions on these programs please contact Whitney Self at whitney@accessfund.org.
The "Best In
America" seal was inspired by the recent comparative review of
"watchdog" groups by the National Council of Nonprofit Associations.
The Council included the CFC standards in its review, and it was obvious that
those standards match or often exceed the standards of other groups. ICA and
LICA are acknowledged as the most rigorous in the application of those
standards to member eligibility review, in conjunction with their own
additional tests.
Shawn Tierney,
Access and Acquisition Director, will be leaving the Access Fund at the
end of the year. Cindy Trotter our
Director of Operations will also be leaving but not until the end of January
2006. We want to thank both of
them for years of dedication and service and wish them well in their future
endeavors.
This has created
an opportunity to assess staff resources of the Access Fund as they relate to
the direction of the organization and creates two job openings that must be
filled.
Through this
evaluation process, we have changed the titles of Access and Acquisition
Director and Grassroots Coordinator and in their place we have created the
Programs Director and Associate Programs Director positions. These name
changes reflect the Access Fund's emphasis on its core programs that
support our mission through both grassroots support and direct action. These programs are: public policy,
grassroots activism, conservation, stewardship and education.
We are pleased to
announce that Deanne Buck who is currently Grassroots Coordinator will step up
as the Programs Director effective December 1st.
Job Descriptions
and application details for the Associate Programs Director and Business and Finance Manager can be found here: http://accessfund.org/staff/employ.php
To
streamline the events process, the AF has created a new page on the website
under the EVENTS tab where interested people or groups can complete a webform
for their event. If your event qualifies, membership materials and goodies may
be sent. All events the AF is involved with will be included on the event
schedule. The deadline for event registration is one month prior to event. To
register an event, visit: http://www.accessfund.org/events/index.php/
12/03
Vertical Endeavors, Duluth, MN. North Shore Style, www.verticalendeavors.com/ve-duluth/duluth.htm
12/08
Patagonia Retail, Silverthorne, CO. "Brothers on Space" El Cap Show
featuring Timmy O'Neill on screen and in person. 7pm
12/14 Squaw Valley, CA. Patagonia
Adventure Series, "Brothers on Space" El Cap Show featuring Timmy
O'Neill on screen and in person.
Thanks to everyone who participated in the
Access Fund 2005 Online Survey! 1,216 climbers from across the U.S. completed
the survey (a 23% overall response!) The two lucky winners of the MAXIM ropes
were:
Ben Smith of
Sonoma, CA (member since 2000)
Stan Schoonover of
Waynesboro, PA (member since 1995)
Your participation is appreciated and will
assure our energy and resources are allocated properly to reflect the values
and priorities of the greater climbing community. Providing us with your
feedback is a direct and meaningful way for you to stand up for your interests
as a climber.
Keep an eye out for the results of the survey in upcoming Vertical Times newsletters and AF E-News.