Access Fund E-News #61

November 2005

The Access Fund

 

 

THE BETA

Take the Challenge

Action Alert!

2005 Access Fund Sharp End Awards

Southern California Fixed Anchor Ban Dropped

Tucson Climber Acquitted In Illegal Bolting Trial

 Access Fund Meets with Congress and Resolution Copper Company to Secure Access to Oak Flat and Queen Creek Canyon, Arizona

Your Comments Make A Difference! Deadline Is December 15th

Open Space Bond Passes To Create A New Park: Reimers

Minnesota Climbers Work for More Climbing Access

Oregon Update: Save Madrone Wall

Mt Hood Wilderness Area Receives Praise and Development

Spotlight: Making Your Money Walk The Talk

Give the Gift of Access

Combined Federal Campaign

Staffing News and Job Announcements

Upcoming Event

Survey Thanks & Rope Winners

 

TAKE THE CHALLENGE

YOUR BACKYARD IS OUR BACKYARD

ROCK IS FINITE KEEP ACCESS INFINITE

 

The Access Fund, corporate partners, regional coordinators, and affiliates, invite YOU to join in the Climbing Resource Challenge.

 

Every dollar that you give to the Access Fund between November 1st and the end of the year will be matched by a combination of corporate sponsors and current AF supporters.

This is an opportunity for you to double your giving to keep climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment.

 

TAKE THE CHALLENGE TODAY

On a national level the Access Fund affects policy that touches climbers across the country. On a local level, we support climbers with grants for projects and provide resources for local climbing organizations, in their work to keep your local crag open. But what we can do is only as strong as our members.

 

SUPPORT IS HOW SUCCESS IS ACCOMPLISHED

The number of climbers continues to increase and with this comes increased access issues. These issues could prevent you from being able to do what you love. We depend on you to help build our resources. Only 1% of all climbers contribute to the Access Fund. The number one reason people arenÕt members is that Òthey havenÕt gotten around to itÓ. Please get around to it now so that we can all keep climbing.

 

WE CHALLENGE YOU TO BECOME A MEMBER

Become a member of the Access Fund today. ItÕs quick and painless and the future of climbing depends on you. If you are already a member, consider stepping up your support with an additional donation and talk to others about becoming a member.

 

You can Pledge your support at any level with a one time annual contribution or become a monthly donor for as little as $5/month.

 

ItÕs easy to give:

Piggy Bank Pledge — $7/month
Save or find one quarter a day. 25 cents x 7 x 4 x 12 = $91

Latte Promise — $10/month
Skip your morning latte once per week. $2.50 x 4 x 12 = $120

Brown Bag Commitment — $20/month
Take your lunch to work once per week. $5 x 4 x 12 = $240

One Tank Difference — $40/month
Donate the equivalent of one tank of gas per month. $40 x 12 = $480

 

EVERYTHING HELPSÉ

Since 1990, the Access Fund has been the only national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 1.6 million climbers nationwide in ALL forms of climbing; Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, and Bouldering.

 

ACTION ALERT!

Urge your Senators to Block the Sale of Our Public Lands

Last week we told you that the US House of Representatives was considering a proposal to sell off millions of acres of national forests, parks and other public lands as a means to reduce the federal deficit and ÒreformÓ the 1872 Mining Law at the same time.  Once sold, these public lands become private, potentially fencing out climbers and the millions of recreational enthusiasts that regularly use them. 

 

In the early hours of November 18, by a vote of 217-215, the U.S. House of Representatives approved the budget reconciliation bill, which contains the mining provisions introduced by House Resources Committee Chairman Richard Pombo (R-California) that allow land speculators and multi-national mining and energy corporations to take ownership of millions of acres of our federal public lands.  For specific bill language, go to http://thomas.loc.gov and reference H.R. 4241.

 

What this means for climbers is that we could lose access to any climbing area located on or next to any existing mining claim, including the access trails to your favorite crag at places like Oak Flat, AZ; Grand Canyon, AZ; Indian Creek, UT; Canyonlands NP, UT; Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT; Darrington, WA; Tensleep Canyon, WY; Telluride, CO; Boulder Canyon, CO; Bishop, CA; Mt. Charleston, NV; and the Black Hills, SD.  Once sold, these lands—which belong to the American people and are enjoyed by millions of private recreational users each year—could become off limits for climbing, boating, hiking, and any other recreational use. 

 

ÒThis is a loss for the millions of Americans who recreate on western public lands,Ó said Access Fund policy director Jason Keith.  ÒThis land grab means that climbers, mountain bikers and hikers could lose the free and open access to the unspoiled forests and backcountry that they currently enjoy.Ó

 

Now What?

The bill now moves to conference committee where selected individuals from the US House and Senate will decide on the final budget reconciliation bill. The Senate version of the budget bill does not have this privatization provision, and thus it is crucial that we call our US Senators and urge them to prevent these mining ÒreformÓ provisions from becoming law. The representation on this committee is not yet decided, and thus the whole Senate is our lobbying target until the conferees have been decided.

 

Your call to Congress could save your public lands access. Call both of your US Senators (go to http://www.visi.com/juan/congress/ to find your Senators) today and stress the following points:

 

á      If passed, this law would make the 1872 Mining Law worse, by placing climbing areas and other special places at risk by allowing mining companies to purchase mining claims even if they are within a protected area such as national parks or wilderness areas.

á      As much as 20 million acres out of 270 million acres of public land cold be sold off.  This mining ÒreformÓ proposal, which has not received adequate publicly debate, should receive public hearings in the relevant resource committees rather than being slipped through Congress in a budget reconciliation bill.

á      If this provision is approved, any land speculator could buy our public lands for as low as $1,000 per acre, and the land would not even have to be mined—any corporation could buy these lands and use them for any purpose.  As much as 270 million acres could be threatened under this proposal and, adding insult to injury, these sales could happen with no public input from the recreational users that frequent these special places. 

á      Please oppose the mining ÒreformÓ provisions in the Budget Reconciliation bill (H.R. 4241).

 

 

2005 ACCESS FUND SHARP END AWARDS

Each year the Access Fund recognizes individuals and businesses who volunteer their efforts and shine above the rest in their commitment and work on behalf of the American climbing community. This yearÕs awards and recipients are:

 

Sharp End Award

For leadership and activism in conserving climbing access and the climbing environment. 

John Anderson

John is the founder of Access New Jersey, a statewide climbing advocacy group. John is also a volunteer regional coordinator for the Access Fund. John was successful in getting the state of NJ to amend their administrative code to allow climbing in state parks, and he has been working to expand climbing access in NJ by removing unnecessary regulations. 

Bennett Barthelemy

Founder, organizer and leader of the Bigfoot Country Climbers Association in Northern California, Bennett has represented climber interests on National Park Service land in Redwood, US Forest Service land at Natural Bridge (Hayfork District), county parks (Moonstone Beach), and other public lands with tribal concerns (Natural Bridge, Lost Rocks, etc).  Bennett is an effective and dedicated climbing activist who works to educate the local climbing community regardng sensitive sacred site issues on public lands.

Keith Daellenbach

Keith is a director with the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee, a non-profit organization dedicated to the long-term preservation of Madrone Wall for the enjoyment of future generations. Keith was instrumental in forming the organization, and has provided years of tireless leadership in the ongoing effort to protect this outstanding recreational resource in northwest Oregon.

Mike Lanza

Mike is a director with the Boise Climbers Alliance, a climbing advocacy group based in Boise, Idaho. In that capacity, he has provided inspirational leadership for the Boise climbing community for many years. Mike was also a volunteer regional coordinator for the Access Fund, and was instrumental in organizing numerous stewardship projects at the Black Cliffs.

Metolius is recognized for its contributions of staff time, resources and financial support to our advocacy work. Encouragement of Metolius staff to get involved through direct advocacy and MetoliusÕ own efforts on behalf of the American climbing community are outstanding.  Examples include donations of catalog pages to communicate about the boulderProject and other access and conservation issues, direct involvement with activist forums, help in constructing messaging, and communication outreach on Metolius products to mentor boulderers in stewardship and conservation.

Patagonia began its support of our mission in 1990 with initial organizational seed money from Yvon Chouinard. Their exemplary support continues with the encouragement of Patagonia ambassadors to get involved and work with the Access Fund, opportunities at dealer camps for Access Fund staff to engage retailers who communicate everyday with the greater public, and financial support for all our advocacy work -- most recently to help with our fight against a land exchange in Arizona that would give precious public lands to an international mining company -- underscores the significance of  their contributions.

Chris Sharma, Josh and Brett Lowell 

Chris, Josh, and Brett, of Big Up Productions created a 30 second film short featuring Chris bouldering in a pristine environment, ticking a first ascent, and discussing the need for conservation. Additionally, Big Up donated an image used in collateral and have been instrumental in helping shape the boulderProjectÕs messaging. Through their outstanding commitment in volunteering their time and talent, the boulderProject is educating climbers, uniting the climbing community, and bringing the mission of the Access Fund to new climbers.

 

Land Manager of The Year

Given to a professional resource manager who has demonstrated a commitment to conserving climbing opportunities and a progressive approach to public lands management. 

Lincoln Else, Climbing Ranger Yosemite National Park

This summer Lincoln developed a grant proposal to fund climber bear boxes for Yosemite Valley. These boxes allow climbersÕ food and gear to remain protected while spending time on the big walls of Yosemite.  He is instrumental in outreach efforts between the NPS in Yosemite and the climbing community (e.g., Sunday morning coffee hour) and spearheaded the countryÕs largest Adopt-a-Crag this fall- The Yosemite Valley Facelift 2005 which removed 3 ½ tons of garbage from Yosemite NP. Lincoln has been influential in bringing the Access Fund and the American Alpine Club into NPS planning decisions and processes and played the key role in enhancing the relationship between climbers and NPS rangers in Yosemite.

Reese Martin Memorial Award Regional Coordinator Of The Year For leadership and activism in conserving climbing access and the climbing environment, and specifically for their volunteer work as an Access Fund representative.

Sean Coburn

Sean has contributed significant efforts in the purchase of private lands to open access to climbing and protect these climbing resources from development and permanent closure.  Rumbling Bald will become a State Park in North Carolina because of the coalition building and negotiations spearheaded by Sean. Laurel Knob, the largest (over 1,000 ft high) piece of granite east of the Mississippi, will now be open to climbing again thanks to Sean and the coalition he has put in place.

 

The Bebie Leadership Award

Presented to AmericaÕs outstanding activist(s) for the cause of conserving climbing access and the climbing environment.

Curt Shannon

Curt is a founding member and dedicated spokesperson for the Friends of Queen Creek and is always available while balancing family life and a demanding day job. He has donated hundreds of hours of volunteer time including two trips to Washington, DC lobbying Congress on the Southeastern Arizona Land Exchange Act of 2005, organizing local activists in letter writing campaigns and political strategy, meeting with Resolution Copper Company as a local representative in negotiations for Oak Flat and Queen Creek access and much more than we can encapsulate here.

 

Menocal Lifetime Achievement Award

Presented periodically to individuals who have demonstrated remarkable commitment to the cause of conserving climbing access and the climbing environment, and who have contributed substantially to the progress of the Access Fund over many years.

David Rosenstein

Dave has been involved with climbing access and conservation issues and the Access Fund itself since its formation.  Over these 15 years Dave has provided countless hours of volunteer time both organizing climbers to be effective advocates and directly advocating on many issues.  Examples of his successes include: obtaining funding for the Mohonk Trust to allow for the purchase of additional climbing resources and his significant work to open Minnewaska State Park (NY) to climbing. His work as a volunteer for the Access Fund goes from being a regional coordinator, to action committee chair, Board member and Board president. Dave has truly devoted his life to climbing and embodies the spirit of this award.

Above & Beyond Awards

For volunteerism and support in conserving climbing access and the climbing environment

Dave Gentry

Dave spends more time volunteering on projects in support of the American climbing community than any other person we know. With out prompting and on a regular basis Dave will tackle a myriad of tasks, many of which would go undone without his help. His selfless devotion benefits all of us and his unassuming nature is one to look up to.

Roger Linfield

Roger has been a member of the Access Fund since its inception and has, annually, made a significant personal investment in furthering the mission of the Access Fund. As a volunteer Roger put in many hours to review and revise our most current Raptor Manual which is distributed to land managers across the country. Additionally, Roger authored our 2005 Spring appeal in support of our core programs. We are grateful to Roger's 15+ years of service to the Access Fund. 

 

 

REGIONAL NEWS

Southern California Fixed Anchor Ban Dropped

Last year the Access Fund issued an action alert to climbers and drafted comments for revisions to a forest plan revision in the San Bernardino National Forest in Southern California that proposed to ban fixed anchors in wilderness.  With a major assist from Randy Vogel and other southern California locals, climbers succeeded in removing the proposed ban from the final plan. In September, the San Bernardino National Forest announced that two sentences in the draft plan proposing a ban on fixed anchor bolts for rock climbing caused a deluge of comments from the climbing community, including climbers in Switzerland and Australia! After further study and coordination, the Forest chose to drop the proposed standard and tier to forthcoming Forest Service fixed anchor national direction. Rock climbing is suitable in all zones. The Access Fund continues to work with US Forest Service officials in Washington, DC regarding a national policy that could be finalized next year which acknowledges the legitimacy of new fixed anchor placements in designated wilderness areas.

 

Tucson Climber Acquitted In Illegal Bolting Trial

In early November Access Fund policy director Jason Keith traveled to Tucson, Arizona to assist in a trial defending local climber Chris Craig from a flawed prosecution charging him with illegal bolting on US Forest Service Land on Mount Lemmon. Local Tucson attorney Scott McNamara skillfully presented a case that convinced the court that the charge should be dismissed. The Access Fund viewed this case as potentially precedent-setting if a federal court determined that fixed anchors were illegal even on general US Forest land. In Tucson, the prosecuting attorney and US Forest Service witnesses confirmed in testimony that it is not illegal to place new fixed anchors on public land. The Access Fund will continue to oppose local field-level interpretations of federal land management policy to ensure consistency and fairness in climbing management policy.

 

Access Fund Meets with Congress and Resolution Copper Company to Secure Access to Oak Flat and Queen Creek Canyon, Arizona

In October Access Fund policy director Jason Keith and Friends of Queen Creek (FoQC) member Curt Shannon met with congressional officials and representatives of Resolution Copper Company (RCC) to discuss the future of climbing access at Oak Flat and Queen Creek, Arizona. 

 

Meeting in Phoenix on October 12, the AF and FoQC discussed the potential for a recreational use license at Oak Flat with RCC and their contractors the Western Land Group who have been working towards a land exchange bill (see http://accessfund.org/display/page/AA/14) that would transfer this popular bouldering area to mining interests.  Also discussed at this meeting, which was attended by several staff members from the offices of US Senators Kyl and McCain and Representative Renzi, was providing for continued public access to the popular climbing areas known as Atlantis and The Pond which are currently owned outright by RCC.  At press time the AF just received a draft of the license proposal from RCC and we hope to secure a favorable agreement in the next few months.

 

Your Comments Make a Difference! Deadline is December 15th.
Draft Management Plan Could Seriously Limit Climbing Opportunities in Great Falls Park. Washington DC.

 

The National Park Service has released a draft General Management Plan (GMP) and Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) for Great Falls Park* and is currently accepting public comments until December 15. Anyone who has ever climbed at Great Falls is encouraged to send comments to Audrey Calhoun, Superintendent, George Washington Memorial Parkway, mailto:GWMP-superintendent@nps.gov, with a copy to greatfallsaccess@gmail.com.

The plan evaluates two alternatives for the park. The parkÕs preferred alternative (B), as written, would severely and unnecessarily restrict climbing in the park by making some popular climbing areas off-limits, forcing climbers to use a limited number of fixed anchors installed by the park, and possibly requiring climbers to compete for a limited number of climbing permits.  The climbing community is concerned that the draft GMP, specifically the preferred alternative, was created on an unscientifically-substantiated belief that climbers, who are one of the smallest and most environmentally conscious group of park visitors, have a serious impact on the parkÕs resources and must be regulated.

Based on public input during the comment period, the park will prepare a Final GMP/EIS where they will either select Alternative A or B as the preferred course of action, modify the alternative based on comments received, or explore additional alternatives. For more information, please email
greatfallsaccess@gmail.com, or visit www.friendsofgreatfalls.com http://www.friendsofgreatfalls.com

http://parkplanning.nps.gov/commentForm.cfm?projectID=12998&documentId=12262
 
*Great Falls is the closest climbing area to Washington DC and is an important regional climbing resource. Many climbing organizations in the DC Metro area have come together to create a unified voice on behalf of the climbing community under the umbrella of the Friends of Great Falls
www.friendsofgreatfalls.com. This coalition includes representatives from Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, the Blue Ridge Section of the American Alpine Club, DC Outdoor Rock Climbers, Sheclimbs, Sportrock, and the Access Fund.

 

Open Space Bond Passes to Create a New Park: Reimers Ranch

John Myrick, Central Texas Mountaineers

Travis County, TX

The Travis County parks and open space bonds passed November 8th with a 66% margin.  According to Travis Co. Parks Director Charles Bergh, if everything goes as planned, Reimer's could be operating as a county park by the time Vertical Times 67 goes to press!  Thanks to everyone who volunteered their time and energy to help make this happen (including everyone who voted in the election).

 

Minnesota Climbers Work for More Climbing Access

Kaija Webster, Minnesota RC

Sandstone, MN

Robinson Park in Sandstone, Minnesota has long been an unofficial destination for rock, ice and mixed climbers in the Great Lakes region. Local climbers including Jeff Engel, Nic Beltrante and Tony Vavricka have made great strides in working with park and city officials to allow climbing in the park by opening a dialog with the managers and organizing climbers for volunteer service days. Their advocacy has helped the Park change its stance from 'no climbing allowed' to clearing brush from cliff bases, planning for fixed anchor placements and farming ice from their pump station. A ground-breaking first Sandstone Ice Festival is scheduled for December 10-11, 2006. Nice work!

 

Oregon Update: Save Madrone Wall

Kellie Rice, Oregon RC and Keith Daellenbach

Portland, OR

Good progress is being made towards the preservation of Madrone Wall, located close to Portland Metro area. It is anticipated that the Parks Advisory Board will make a formal recommendation to the Clackamas County Commissioners endorsing the preservation of and access to the area, which was closed to public access by the County in 1997 as part of a quarry plan. The Commissioners are then expected to review the recommendation and make a final decision by early 2006. Public input and support of the reopening of this great resource is still important. You can find a copy of a sample petition letter along with Clackamas County contact information on the homepage of the MWPC website at www.savemadrone.org. In addition, it is important to observe and abide by the ÒNo TrespassingÓ ordinance until this process is finalized.  Thank you to all who have contributed and wrote in the past, together we will re-open another great climbing resource.

 

Mt Hood Wilderness Area Receives Praise and Development

Tony Holmes, Oregon RC

Mt. Hood, OR
Mt. Hood has never had a reputation of solid rock nor easy access, but hidden amongst the canopies of Douglas fir and Cedar are scores of Andosite and Basalt formations holding classic lines and backcountry adventures to rival any on the west coast.

French's Dome is the most popular of these crags, containing a high concentration of quality sport lines from 5.6- 5.13. However, erosion is an ever-present force on the belay platforms and approach trails. Thanks to a $6,000 grant from the Access Fund and another $54,000 from the USFS, renovation will be done to address the areaÕs heavy use and insure an enjoyable experience for generations to come. According to Mary-Ellen Fitzgerald of the USFS, ground breaking on this collaborative project will begin by spring of 2006.



Spotlight: Making Your Money Walk The Talk

You did it again. You renewed your Access Fund membership! Why? Just curious – was it the grant your local crag got from the AF this year? Was it Timmy OÕNeill on the microphone? Was it because you know that we all share the same backyard? Was it because you realized you spend more on your cable bill than protecting your passion of climbing? Was it because you want your kids to cruise the same lines that you cruise?

 

Well, from the bottom of the climbing communityÕs guts, we thank you.

 

Now what? You gave your money and youÕre off to the crag? Good, thatÕs what you should do but youÕre an AFer now and we want you to get the most out of your membership!

 

Spotlighter asks:

 

Your backyard is our backyard and there are countless issues around the country that require financial resources that you make possible by becoming a member.

 

We know what it takes to step up and contribute your hard earned money and you have our promise that we will do everything we can to make your contribution work as hard as possible to keep your climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment.

L8tr,

Spotlighter


Give the Gift of Access

Hook up your climbing partner, niece, nephew, daughter, son, or neighbor kid this holiday season with an Access Fund Gift Pack!
 
STANDARD AF GIFT PACK = $40.00 ($64.85 retail value)
1 Liter Nalgene Bottle filled with:  
One-year AF Membership
Omega Pacific Classic Locking ÔBiner
MSR Titanium Spoon & Fork set
Sticker pack & Mini Clif Bars


DELUXE AF GIFT PACK = $60.00 ($84.85 retail value)
AF T Shirt + Standard Gift Pack
 

To order: www.accessfund.org/secure/giving.php or call Kerry toll-free at 888-8-MEMBER (888-863-6237) x106.

 

Combined Federal Campaign

Are you a federal employee?  Did you know you could donate to The Access Fund through the federal governmentÕs Combined Federal Campaign (CFC)?

Federal employees, including federal civilians, military personnel, and U.S. Postal Service workers, can now donate to AF through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC). The CFC is a charitable fundraising program where you give to the Access Fund through automatic payroll deductions.

If you are a federal employee, please look for the Access Fund (agency # 2361) in the official CFC listing of eligible donors. You can also make your contribution on-line by going to: www.conservenow.org, click on Search for a Charity, type in the Access Fund and make your contribution there.

If you have additional questions on these programs please contact Whitney Self at whitney@accessfund.org.

The "Best In America" seal was inspired by the recent comparative review of "watchdog" groups by the National Council of Nonprofit Associations. The Council included the CFC standards in its review, and it was obvious that those standards match or often exceed the standards of other groups. ICA and LICA are acknowledged as the most rigorous in the application of those standards to member eligibility review, in conjunction with their own additional tests.

 

Staffing News and Job Announcements

Shawn Tierney, Access and Acquisition Director, will be leaving the Access Fund at the end of the year.  Cindy Trotter our Director of Operations will also be leaving but not until the end of January 2006.  We want to thank both of them for years of dedication and service and wish them well in their future endeavors.

 

This has created an opportunity to assess staff resources of the Access Fund as they relate to the direction of the organization and creates two job openings that must be filled.

 

Through this evaluation process, we have changed the titles of Access and Acquisition Director and Grassroots Coordinator and in their place we have created the Programs Director and Associate Programs Director positions.  These name changes reflect the Access Fund's emphasis on its core programs that support our mission through both grassroots support and direct action.  These programs are: public policy, grassroots activism, conservation, stewardship and education.

 

We are pleased to announce that Deanne Buck who is currently Grassroots Coordinator will step up as the Programs Director effective December 1st.

 

Job Descriptions and application details for the Associate Programs Director and Business and Finance Manager can be found here: http://accessfund.org/staff/employ.php

 

Upcoming Events

To streamline the events process, the AF has created a new page on the website under the EVENTS tab where interested people or groups can complete a webform for their event. If your event qualifies, membership materials and goodies may be sent. All events the AF is involved with will be included on the event schedule. The deadline for event registration is one month prior to event. To register an event, visit: http://www.accessfund.org/events/index.php/

12/03 Vertical Endeavors, Duluth, MN. North Shore Style, www.verticalendeavors.com/ve-duluth/duluth.htm

12/08 Patagonia Retail, Silverthorne, CO. "Brothers on Space" El Cap Show featuring Timmy O'Neill on screen and in person. 7pm

12/14 Squaw Valley, CA. Patagonia Adventure Series, "Brothers on Space" El Cap Show featuring Timmy O'Neill on screen and in person.

 

 

Survey Thanks & Rope Winners

Thanks to everyone who participated in the Access Fund 2005 Online Survey! 1,216 climbers from across the U.S. completed the survey (a 23% overall response!) The two lucky winners of the MAXIM ropes were:

 

Ben Smith of Sonoma, CA (member since 2000)

Stan Schoonover of Waynesboro, PA (member since 1995)

 

Your participation is appreciated and will assure our energy and resources are allocated properly to reflect the values and priorities of the greater climbing community. Providing us with your feedback is a direct and meaningful way for you to stand up for your interests as a climber.

 

Keep an eye out for the results of the survey in upcoming Vertical Times newsletters and AF E-News.