E-News 66

April 2006

 

THE BETA

ACTION ALERTS

Take 5 Minutes to Call Congress and Help Save Climbing on the City of Rocks' Twin Sisters, ID

There is Still Time to Prevent the Sale of Climbing Areas on Public Forest Service Land

New Jersey Action Alert

NEWS

Access Fund Awards Over $22,000 in Climbing Preservation Grants Funding to Support Conservation and Land Acquisitions

7th Annual Adopt-a-Crag Celebration Around the Corner!

Recreationalists Gather Under Outdoor Alliance Banner

The Access Fund Meets With Other National Climbing Organizations

AREA UPDATES

Smugglers Notch Bouldering Town Meeting, VT

EVENTS

Access Fund 15th Anniversary Party- Now only $35!

Events Calendar

MEMBER BENEFITS

Members Only Sale!

Combined Federal Campaign

 

 

 

 

ACTION ALERTS

 

 

 

Take 5 Minutes to Call Congress and Help Save Climbing on the City of Rocks' Twin Sisters, ID

Climbers are being cut out of City of Rocks' Climbing Management Plan (CMP) revision and your voice is needed to call Congress urging a more reasonable National Park Service (NPS) management alternative that eases the absolute climbing ban on the Twin Sisters. 

 

The Twin Sisters, closed to climbing since 1993, are the most prominent and recognizable rock formations at Idaho's City of Rocks National Reserve (CIRO).  Recently the NPS began the process of revising the 1998 CMP that formally bans Twin Sisters climbing, but the agency has already decided, without public input, that it won't even consider an alternative that would allow any climbing on the famed Twin Sisters formation.  The NPS's plan to continue the Twin Sisters ban ignores the stance of Idaho Congressional delegation, Almo locals, and the large number of climbers who visit CIRO regularly.  

 

For more background on internal NPS planning to date, go here www.accessfund.com/pdf/Minutes_CIROCMPReview.pdf.  

 

CIRO will publish a draft CMP revision in the coming months and the Access Fund has lobbied the NPS and Congress to add analysis that at least considers opening Twin Sisters to limited climbing.  For more background on this issue, see the Access Fund's latest CIRO "scoping" comments at www.accessfund.org/pdf/AFciro.pdf

 

Now we need your calls to Congress in support of our position.  Take five minutes and urge Congress to tell the NPS to:

 

¥ Expand the narrow and arbitrary scope of NPS's planned CMP revision at the City of Rocks, and provide adequate public participation in the process.

 

¥ Add a third CMP alternative that provides at least some level of climbing opportunities on the Twin Sisters that is more consistent with Congressional intent when establishing CIRO as well as the NPS's own management policies.

 

For your calls to make a difference, contact Idaho's Congressional delegation:

 

US Senator Larry E. Craig (R-ID).  Contact Mike Freese in Boise at (208) 342-7985.

 

US Senator Mike Crapo (R-ID).  Contact Staci Lancaster in Washington, D.C. at (202) 224-6142.

 

US Representative Mike Simpson (R-ID 2nd). Contact Josh Heird in Washington,  D.C. at (202) 225-5531.

 

US Representative C.L. "Butch" Otter (R-ID 1st).  Contact Jani Revier in  Washington, D.C. at (202) 225-6611.

 

***If you are not from Idaho make sure to tell these offices how often you travel to CIRO and where you spend your tourist dollars.  If you are from Idaho let Congress know how much you value Twin Sisters and that you vote!  Contact the Access Fund's Policy Director Jason Keith for more information at jason@accessfund.org.

 

 

 

 

 

There is Still Time to Prevent the Sale of Climbing Areas on Public Forest Service Land

As reported in the March E-news, the Bush administration is proposing the sale of 200,000 acres out of 304,000 acres of eligible public National Forest land in 31 states to fund a law requiring the government help pay for school and public services in rural parts of the country. 

 

Local climbers have identified crags in Boulder Canyon, Colorado that are on the auction list. So far these are the only climbing areas that have been identified.  We need your help to determine if your local crag could be sold- go to www.geocommunicator.gov/NILS-PARCEL2/map.jsp?Map=USFS and select map "USFS RURAL SCHOOLS" or http://www.fs.fed.us/land/staff/rural-pdf.shtml and click on your forest for a PDF map. If you see your local crag indicated on the map, write and tell the Forest Service to remove your climbing area from the auction list. Also, send us an email at ActionAlert@accessfund.org

 

Climber letters to the Forest Service are needed to ensure that public climbing areas are not sold before the auction list is submitted to Congress. The Forest Service will receive comments to their proposed list of lands for sale through April 30th. Send email to SRS_Land_Sales@fs.fed.us, and written comments to:

 

USDA Forest Service

SRS Comments, Lands 4S

1400 Independence Ave., SW, Mailstop 1124

Washington, DC, 20250-0003.

Faxes go to (202) 205-1604

 

The Access Fund is in favor of federal funding for rural schools and roads but does want the permanent sale of public lands to only temporarily support this program.  FOR MORE INFORMATION and letter-writing talking points, go to http://www.accessfund.com/pdf/USFS land sales - AA talking points - final.pdf

 

 

 

 

New Jersey Action Alert

Climbers' input is needed to insure that climbing is listed as an official activity of the North Jersey Highlands. Please send e-mails to the NJ State Highlands Council e-mail address: highlands@highlands.state.nj.us

 

Contact the NJ State Highlands Council to make your voice heard and ask that climbing be listed as an official activity of the North Jersey Highlands. The Council is developing the State's regional master plan for the NJ Highlands. Part of the plan includes recreation. One of the Council's long-term goals is an inventory of recreation opportunities in the Highlands. Climbing has been brought to the attention of the Council but further direct input is needed. Direct examples and information about stewardship activities of recreation user groups on NJ's public lands are helpful. 

 

Climbers have 6 months to individually petition the Council for such inclusion into the regional master plan.

 

Such listing will help, assist and support the sun-setting (end of) of the NJ Administrative Code 7.22 that remains on the books regardless of the wavier system established by the NJ State Parks. Such listing will also go a long way in helping to gain access to climbing and bouldering areas in NJ's County parks.

 

Contact:

John Anderson

State Director

Access NJ 

email:  climbnj@climbnj.com

tele:  609-518-7388

 

 

 

 

 

NEWS

 

 

Access Fund Awards Over $22,000 in Climbing Preservation Grants Funding to Support Conservation and Land Acquisitions

The Access Fund kicks off its fifteenth year of supporting grassroots climbing advocacy and conservation projects by awarding more than $22,000 in its first Climbing Preservation Grants cycle of 2006 for trail improvements, preservation of private lands from development, organizational startup and solutions to belay area erosion. Presented three times annually, these grants provide financial assistance for local climber activism and protection of the climbing environment in the United States.

 

The following grants were awarded this round:

 

Friends of Williamson Rock Start-up, California

A grant was awarded to the Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR) for start-up and organizational expenses.  The newly formed group represents climbers' interests at Williamson Rock in Southern California.  FoWR's first project is to work closely with United States Forest Service to address access, stewardship and climbing management issues as they relate to the Mountain Yellow-Legged Frog in order to reopen Williamson Rock to rock climbing.  

 

Ragged Mountain Parking Feasibility Assessment, Connecticut

A grant was awarded the Ragged Mountain Foundation (RMF) to conduct a comprehensive analysis toward the construction of a parking area. The RMF property contains wetlands and a conservation easement. Therefore it must first be determined if an ecologically sensitive parking area can be developed. Long-term access has always been uncertain due to the limited nature of parking.   The project is a partnership between the Berlin Land Trust, private landowners and the local climbing community.

 

Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve Land Acquisition Project, Kentucky

The Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition (RRGCC) was awarded a grant to assist with the acquisition of the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve climbing area.  The Pendergrass-Murray area is a regionally and nationally significant rock climbing area containing almost 75% of the existing open climbing in the Southern Region of the Red River Gorge, Kentucky.  RRGCC purchased the 700 acre parcel for recreational use and protection in 2004.  Climbing will be allowed and access to the crag will be guaranteed in perpetuity.  This grant supplements a grant awarded by the AF in 2004 for the acquisition

Laurel Knob Acquisition Project, North Carolina

The Carolina Climbers Coalition received a grant, made possible by Petzl and Scarpa, to assist with the purchase of a 50-acre tract near Cashiers, North Carolina containing what is arguably the tallest cliff in the eastern United States – a granite wall over 1,000 feet tall known as Laurel Knob. The purchase opens up a previously closed climbing area. This grant supplements a grant awarded by the AF in 2005 for the acquisition

 

Frenches Dome Slope Stabilization and Belay Platform Construction, Oregon

The Forest Service was awarded a grant to help pay for a slope stabilization and belay platform construction project at a popular climbing destination near Mt. Hood. Heavy use at this site has resulted in erosion and vegetation loss at the base of the rock and outlying areas. The project will involve the construction of rock retaining walls, a trail on the northeast side of the formation that will direct use, and revegetation in areas that are no longer in the travel zone.

 

White Rocks Acquisition Project, Pennsylvania

The Explorer's Club of Pittsburgh (ECP) was awarded a grant to help pay for the acquisition of 800+ acres of open space and crags in southwestern Pennsylvania.  This land is of local and regional significance and includes some of the best climbing in the area. Unfortunately is has been closed to climbing for over 10 years, and is a target for real estate developers.  Long-term access and preservation of the area will be secured through the acquisition. 

 

Reimers Ranch Bridge Construction Project, Texas

A grant was awarded to the climbers group, Central Texas Mountaineers, for erosion control and bridge construction work at Reimers Ranch in outside of Austin, Texas.  In November 2005, Reimers Ranch was purchased by Travis County to be used as a public park with the passage of a bond initiative. Since the acquisition of Reimers by Travis County, visitation to the area has increased substantially. The construction of two bridges will proved safer access to climbing areas, reduces impact to the stream, and protects vegetation and life contained in the stream.

 

 

Maple Canyon Bridge and Kiosk Construction Project, Utah

The USDA Forest Service, Manti-La Sal National Forest was awarded a grant to construct a bridge and an educational kiosk.  The Middle Fork Trail in Maple Canyon receives heavy use and impacts the stream that must be crossed to access the climbing trails. The bridge help minimize the impacts of use by re-vegetating the river's banks and kiosks will and provide education to all users on camping, minimum impact techniques and cultural resources.

 

 

 

 

7th Annual Adopt-a-Crag Celebration Around the Corner!

We kicked off the 7th Annual Adopt-a-Crag season by expanding it into a year-round event, and already the benefits are being felt at crags across the country.  With a handful of successful stewardship projects already completed and a slew of events already lined out for upcoming months, we are well on our way to making 2006 the most successful Adopt-a-Crag year ever! 

 

With the majority of Adopt-a-Crag events continuing to occur in the fall, we've identified September as the Adopt-a-Crag celebration month.

 

As the long days of Spring and Summer draw us out to the crag for the post-work-day climbing session, take a look around and see if there is someway to "celebrate" your community and crag.  Does your crag need a little TLC?  Trail maintenance, crag clean-up, native flora planting or rehabilitation?  Whatever the need, any time is a good time to organize an Adopt-a-Crag or volunteer for an upcoming event in your area.

 

To find an Adopt-a-Crag in your area or to learn more about registering, organizing and implementing an event for your crag and community visit www.accessfund.org/adopt

 

Please contact Kristo Torgersen at Kristo@AccessFund.org or 303.545.6772 x105 for more information.

 

 

 

 

Recreationalists Gather Under Outdoor Alliance Banner

Diverse User Groups Join Forces to Secure Human-Powered Recreation Opportunities

 

Contact: Steve Matous

OA Steering Committee

steve@accessfund.org

 

The simple pleasures of human-powered activities — such as hiking, bicycling, paddling, skiing and climbing — are enjoyed by more than 150 million Americans each year. Despite the common theme of quiet, respectful enjoyment of natural resources, these user groups have seldom bonded together to speak in a common voice.

 

That's about to change. In 2006, the Access Fund (AF), American Whitewater (AW), American Canoe Association (ACA), American Hiking Society (AHS), International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA), and Winter Wildlands Alliance (WWA) joined forces to establish the Outdoor Alliance (OA).

 

A coalition of national, local and regional groups, the Outdoor Alliance seeks to protect and secure quality outdoor recreation opportunities on the nation's public lands and waters through the collective voice and influence of human-powered outdoor recreation participants.

 

Supported in part by funding from the Turner Foundation, the OA will help its member user groups improve their grassroots organization and outreach capabilities. By educating decision makers about the size, characteristics, and needs of the human-powered outdoor recreation constituency, and by coordinating and mobilizing the alliance's collective grassroots members on key issues, the OA will bring protect and enhance recreational opportunities.

 

"The Outdoor Alliance is the national voice promoting sustainable muscle-powered activities that create opportunities for healthy recreation," states Mike Van Abel, Executive Director of the International Mountain Bicycling Association. "The Alliance supports responsible stewardship of the lands, waters, air and habitat that are vital to a quality outdoor recreation experience."

 

The OA's steering committee, comprised of one member from each of the founding agencies, is primarily responsible for building the coalition. The group will select a director, to be based in Washington, D.C., and establish a Web site later this year. General membership development plans are also in the works.

 

For additional information, please contact any of the OA's Steering Committee members:

 

Steve Matous, Access Fund

(303) 545-6772 X101

steve@accessfund.org

 

Mark Singleton, American Whitewater Association

(828) 293-9791

mark@amwhitewater.org

 

Pamela Dillon, American Canoe Association

(703) 451-0141 X11

pdillon@americancanoe.org

 

Greg Miller, American Hiking Society

(301) 565-6704 X210

gmiller@americanhiking.org

 

Mike Van Abel, International Mountain Bicycling Association

303-545-9011 x102

mike@imba.com

 

Mark Menlove, Winter Wildlands Association

(208) 336-4203

mmenlove@winterwildlands.org

 

 

 

 

The Access Fund Meets With Other National Climbing Organizations

The Access Fund, American Alpine Club, American Mountain Guides Association, Climbing Wall Association and USA Climbing/American Bouldering Series, have begun to meet on a regular basis to address issues of concern to the entire climbing community.  While no formal coalition is anticipated at this time these meetings by the Executive directors from each organization are serving to help us identify and work on areas of mutual interest.

 

One outcome thus far has been that the Access Fund, as the national advocacy organization for American climbers, will take the lead and keep the other organizations informed as issues of access and conservation for the general climbing public come up either through management plans, legislation or regulation.  Each of the respective organizations continue to work on behalf of its own constituency's needs and mission, but the overall goal is to best serve climbing in America as a united front.

 

 

 

 

 

AREA UPDATES

 

 

Smugglers Notch Bouldering Town Meeting, VT

 

WHEN: Saturday, April 22nd 2006 from 6:00-8:00pm

WHERE: Petra Cliffs Climbing Center, Burlington,  VT

Description: CRAG-VT (Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont) invites all boulderers & rock climbers who frequent Smugglers Notch State Park to an informal gathering and discussion about current and future access issues at the park. Share your opinions and learn about: responsible and effective stewardship of the area; high levels of use and environmental impacts; and concerns about the unique and fragile flora and fauna. Your attendance will help ensure that Smuggs will remain OPEN to bouldering and climbing in the future! Attendance is FREE. After the discussion, those in attendance may climb until closing (10pm) for only $5.00! Light snacks and drinks will be provided.

 

For more information, visit the "Smugglers Notch Bouldering Town Meeting" thread on CRAG-VT's Community Forum at www.cragvt.org.

 

 

 

 

 

 

EVENTS

 

 

Access Fund 15th Anniversary Party- Now only $35!

Las Vegas, NV April 29

 

When: Saturday, April 29th

Where: Vegas Baby!

How: Tickets for the event are on sale now for $35

*Please purchase your tickets early!

 

Here's the Plan

Folks are gathering to climb at Red Rocks during the day, but the real party starts at 6:00pm at the Quonset Hut in Blue Diamond, NV.

Blue Diamond is a small mining town located just 16.5 miles from Las Vegas and just 8 from Red Rock Canyon

(The 'Big Orange' Quonset Hut located in the center of Blue Diamond, NV)

 

1 Village Drive

Blue Diamond, NV 89004

(Click here for directions)

 

Here's the schedule

Saturday 9:00am

Climbing at Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area

If you are looking for a climbing partner for the day or just want Coffee and a Danish meet us in the parking lot at BLM Visitor Center (about 1/2 mile in off the Loop Road entrance to the park)

It is $5 to enter the park or free if you have a National Parks Pass.

 

Saturday 6:00pm

Evening festivities include:

Dinner buffet

Music

Beer and wine provided

Gear raffle and slideshow by Corey Rich titled "My Favorite Place", Great Athletes in the Great Outdoors By Jason Paur with Photographs by Corey Rich

 

Here's How to Purchase a Tickets

Each ticket buys you a complimentary Access Fund Membership or a certificate for a one-year membership to give to a friend

 

You can purchase tickets online at www.accessfund.org/tickets/

Or send your check to:

 

Access Fund

P.O. Box 17010

Boulder, CO 80308

 

*please write 15th Anniversary in the subject line of your check.

 

 

 

 

Events Calendar

04/20—04/20 Upper Limits Rock Gym, Bloomington, IL. 4th Annual Crashpad Jamboree Bouldering Comp. 5pm-9pm

www.upperlimits.com

 

04/22—04/23 Tollhouse Rock, east of Fresno on Hwy 168, CA. Southern Sierra Climbers Assn- Tollhouse Rock Climb & Clean Up

www.southernsierra.org/sscahome.html

 

04/22—04/22 Humboldt State University Student Recreation Center, Humboldt, CA. 1st Annual HSU Bouldering Competition

 

04/26—04/26 Oklahoma State University Campus, OK. Oklahoma State Earth Fest 2006

www.orgs.okstate.edu/ecoosu/

 

04/29—04/29 Blue Diamond/Red Rocks, NV. Access Fund 15th Anniversary Party!

www.accessfund.org/tickets

 

04/29—04/29 West Cabarrus YMCA Branch - Concord, NC. Gravity Grapple Climbing Comp

www.ymcacab.org

 

05/09—05/09 Patagonia outlet, Reno, NV. Corey Rich Multimedia presentation- 7PM, 800-369-2517

 

05/27—05/28 Reel Pizza Cinerama, Bar Harbor, ME. Acadia Climbing Festival

www.acadiaclimbing.com

 

05/27—05/28 Domelands Wilderness, CA. Southern Sierra Climbers Assn- Bart Dome Back Country Climb & Trail Spiff and Rebolt

www.southernsierra.org/sscahome.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

MEMBER BENEFITS

 

Members Only Sale!

25% OFF All Access Fund Merchandise through April 30th!

www.accessfund.org/secure/store.php *enter promo code SpringDeal to receive discount.

 

New Men's T-shirts

100% Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Those old T-shirts you've been wearing have more perforations than Swiss Cheese at City of Rocks. By purchasing our T, you can rebel against corporate dress codes and battle for climbers' rights at the same time. Artwork by Mike Tea. Sizes S, M, L, XL. Color: Black, Olive, Curry, Sand, Brown. $18 regular member price/ $20 non members. NOW ONLY $15.00!

 

 

New Women's T-shirts

100% Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Designed for a comfortable fit and ideal for steep sport climbs, bold runouts or just hanging out. Artwork by Mike Tea. Sizes S, M, L. Color: Black, Brown. $18 reg member price/ $20 non members. NOW ONLY $15.00!

 

New AF/Outdoor Research Windshirt

Uber-ultralight, ripstop nylon shell with a breathable, wind and water-resistant polyurethane coating keeps epic conditions at bay. 3/4-length zipper allows easy on and off without adding unnecessary bulk. Stuffs into its own zippered pocket. Drawcord hem adjustment and elastic cuffs snug things down when the wind makes you rethink the crux moves. Ropegun pictured not included. 3.5oz./100g. Sizes M and XL Only (quantities limited). Color: Phyllite. Retail $89! $27 reg member price/$32 non members. NOW ONLY $24.00

 

Check out the new Access Fund | North Face Beanies

Perfect blockheater for long ice-routes, crisp bouldering sessions, or a bad hair day. 100% Merino wool with a soft fleece lining adds a little extra protection from the elements. Tastefully co-branded with the Access Fund and The North Face logos. One Size. $13.50 member price (seriously good deal!) Non member price $15, available at www.accessfund.org/secure/store.php

 

AF Extras

Cruise to the AF website and play ASANA PackWorks' video game Gunther's Big Day www.accessfund.com/extras/game.php Click through to ASANA's site to purchase the full version. $10 from each purchase made through this link will be donated to the AF. Go Gunther! Thanks ASANA!

 

View Access Fund Ambassador Chris Sharma sending a first ascent in the boulderProject promo spot www.accessfund.org/extras/promo.php

 

Combined Federal Campaign

Are you a federal employee? Did you know you can donate to The Access Fund through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC)?

 

Federal employees, including federal civilians, military personnel, and U.S. Postal Service workers, can now donate to AF through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC). The CFC is a charitable fundraising program where you give to the Access Fund through automatic payroll deductions.

 

 If you are a federal employee, please look for the Access Fund (agency # 2361) in the official CFC listing of eligible donors. You can also make your contribution on-line by going to: www.conservenow.org, click on Search for a Charity, type in Access Fund and make your contribution there.

 

If you have additional questions on these programs please contact Whitney Self at mailto:whitney@accessfund.org.