E-News 67
May 2006
THE BETA
NEWS
Access Fund Condemns Recent Climb of Delicate Arch, UT
Access Fund Partners with Forward Motion to Raise Funds!
Jim Collins Access Fund Benefit
AREA UPDATES
Williamson Rock, CA Closure Update
Rosendale Rocks- May 27th, 2006!
Bozeman Pass, Montana Parking Closure
EVENTS
MEMBER BENEFITS
New Limited Edition AF Hoodies!
New AF/Outdoor Research Windshirt
House For Sale?!Combined Federal Campaign
NEWS
A recent ascent of Delicate Arch in Utah's Arches National Park has fueled a firestorm of media coverage and interest from federal land managers, politicians and the climbing community. See Park tweaks rules after Delicate Arch climb in the May 10 edition of the SALT LAKE TRIBUNE (http://www.sltrib.com/ci_3804296). Many individuals both climbers and non-climbers have expressed outrage at this event, and the climb has received both statewide and national media attention.
The Access Fund does not condone the climb of Delicate Arch and the actions of this individual are not representative of the climbing community.
The Access Fund supports justifiable climbing restrictions which protect natural and cultural resources and works towards effective and reasonable climbing management policies in cooperation with land managers and the greater climbing community. This process of discussion limits unnecessary restrictions, results in climbing management policies based on mutual agreement, and helps to ensure cooperation and effective enforcement of climbing policies.
We trust the public will understand that the actions of one person should not condemn the larger community of climbers who are equally appalled by this event. The Access Fund urges all climbers to recognize and limit the impacts of their climbing practices on the environment and other users of the land and to respect existing closures. If questionable restrictions arise, climbing advocacy efforts opposing such unreasonable restrictions should follow proper administrative procedures.
Climbers pride ourselves on respect for the environment and the Access Fund's stewardship efforts around the country speak directly to the greater climbing public taking responsibility for climbing resources.
On May 10, Access Fund policy director Jason Keith met with Arches National Park Supervisor Laura Joss to address these incidents as they relate to future climbing access in Arches National Park. At this meeting the Access Fund was told that while no immediate additional restrictions are planned, future climbing access in Arches and other national parks may be restricted as a result of the Delicate Arch incident. Utah's US Congressional delegation has also weighed in but the possibility of additional restrictions is not known at this time
See the Access Fund's website at http://accessfund.org/resources/index.php and http://www.accessfund.org/adopt to reference our conservation and stewardship efforts.
For a list of climbing closures and restrictions nationwide see http://www.accessfund.org/access/index.php.
For more information on the Access Fund?s advocacy work see http://www.accessfund.org/advo/index.php.
Policy Questions: contact Jason Keith, jason@accessfund.org
Media inquiries: contact Robb Shurr, robb@accessfund.org
Newly established as a year-round event, Adopt-a-Crag 2006 is already underway and gaining momentum.
In 2005, the bar was set high with 111 scheduled Adopt-a-Crag events across the nation, and reaching our 2006 goal of 120 events will set a new standard of success.
While we might not all climb at the same level as Access Fund ambassador Tommy Caldwell-or even in a parallel universe - together we will not only match his accomplishments by repeating all 4 of his first free ascents on El Cap with each pitch representing an Adopt-a-Crag event, but we will tick a new free route. If we succeed this far, we will work to establish our own first free ascent on El Cap, the 23 pitches of Magic Mushroom, and set the new standard of success. The tick list is as follows, with a grand total of 120 pitches. Let's get it done!
West Buttress VI 5.13c, 20 pitches
Lurking Fear VI 5.13c, 19 pitches
Muir Wall VI 5.13c, 33 pitches
Dihedral Wall VI 5.14a, 25 pitches
Magic Mushroom VI 5.14, 23 pitches
As of May 15th we have climbed 34 pitches on El Cap, completing the West Buttress in record speed and style, and finding ourselves 14 pitches up the daunting line of Lurking Fear.
Still buzzing from the success of last year, we found ourselves in good shape to send the West Buttress without too much trouble; 20 beautiful pitches up the dramatic left side of El Cap. First climbed by Layton Kor and Steve Roper in 1963, and first FREE climbed by Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden in June 2003, the route has 2 pitches of 5.13b up high and a crux 3rd pitch that goes at 5.13c. An amazing accomplishment for us to repeat, and a strong showing for our first 20 pitches.
We now find ourselves 14 pitches up Lurking Fear, relaxing at a large bivy 3 pitches below Thanksgiving Ledge and 5 pitches from the summit. We sent the crux 5.13c slab pitch during cool morning temps, cruised several pitches of perfect 5.12 cracks, and now find ourselves enjoying the day's last rays below the shared upper pitches of the West Buttress. We know them well, summiting should not be a problem, and we look forward to starting up our next Caldwell route, the free Muir Wall, soon.
Logon on to http://www.accessfund.org/events/aac.php for an up to date list of Adopt-a-Crags
http://www.accessfund.org/adopt for info on how to organize your own Adopt-a-Crag.
On July 6th, Mike Madison and Brett Wilder will be setting out on a trip they like to call 4 Peaks in 4 Weeks. The trip is a human-powered loop through the Cascades which will take them from Tacoma, WA, to the summits of Mt. Baker, Glacier Peak, Mt. Rainier, and Mt. Adams, and then return them home, hopefully before August 6th.
In partnership with the Access Fund, Forward Motion hopes to raise money and bring awareness to the AF's five core programs. According to Brett, It's the next step in Forward Motion's plan. First we wanted to get people motivated to explore and now we want to keep land available for folks to use.
Forward Motion began in 2004 and last year Brett rode solo and unsupported across the US to motivate people to get out and make their move. Along the trip, he also raised money to fix up bikes which he donated to the Tacoma Rescue Mission.
4 Peaks in 4 Weeks will span over 800 miles, requiring them to ride over 200 miles a week AND summit a mountain. They'll be riding bicycles as far as the road will take them and then climbing in alpine-style, carrying small packs and hiking fast. As far as anyone can tell, this will be the first human-powered traverse of all four of Washington's tallest peaks.
Check out their website at www.forward-motion.org and follow their progress as they keep a blog with updates of their trip.
Denver, CO
We are honored to invite you to join us at a very special event. Jim Collins
long-time Access Fund member, business management scholar, best-selling author of Good to Great, and avid rock climber will share a special lecture prepared exclusively for this event: Leadership Lessons of a Rock Climber
Jim is the country's foremost business management scholar and speaks to sold out crowds from coast to coast. Because of his passion for climbing and belief in the mission of the Access Fund, he's offered this event to the Access Fund free of charge. There are only 100 seats available for this intimate fundraiser with 100% of the proceeds benefiting the Access Fund.
Please join us, for this is a rare opportunity!
Denver Botanic Gardens, Gates Hall
909 York St Denver, CO 80206
The Evening of Friday, June 30th
6-7:00 pm Cocktail and hors d?oeuvres
7:00 pm Dinner
7:45 pm Lecture by Jim Collins
8:45 pm Closing Remarks
Buffet dinner and drinks will be served
Attire: Business Casual
Tickets start at $500 *tax deductible
Only 100 seats available. Please RSVP by June 12th.
contact Whitney Self at (303) 545-6772 x113 whitney@accessfund.org with questions.
AREA UPDATES
Troy Mayr, Friends of Williamson Rock
On May 8, 2006, Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR) met with Angeles National Forest employees, during which time discussions were held regarding the current status of Williamson Rock (W.R.), as well as the regulatory issues surrounding re-opening of W.R. This meeting served to supplement a proposal submitted in January, 2006 by FoWR, which outlined the intentions of FoWR. This also supplemented communications made between FoWR and USFS staff, in addition to the results of the field meeting held on December 13, 2005. This coordination has proved beneficial to relations between climbers and regulatory agencies. However, the process required to facilitate the re-opening of W.R. will be lengthy, requiring full closure at least until next summer. Please check out a summary of the current situation at http://williamsonrock.org/blog/. FoWR is working to increase awareness among climbers of the situation and would like to stress the importance of maintaining cooperative relations with the U.S. Forest Service as well as the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.
Brian Fedigan, Idaho AF Regional Coordinator
The Boise Climbers Alliance continues negotiations with Skyline Development to keep a local climbing area open. Though most of the climbs at the Black Cliffs are unaffected by the development, access could be jeopardized in Car Body Canyon. Car Body Canyon was purchased along with 700 acres of land above the Black Cliffs and contains close to 50 climbs ranging from 5.6 to 5.12; many of these climbs are local classics. The BCA is continuing discussion with Skyline trying to negotiate a conservation easement for the whole canyon. In addition, we are our discussing with the developers ways to maintain safety (both for land owners and climbers) and possible impacts of the development on recreation in the area.
Dosage Volume IV Sneak Preview in the Widow Jane Mine.
Rosendale, NY
Join the Gunks Climbers Coalition and Josh and Brett Lowell for two big doses of climbing adrenaline and help raise awareness for the Rosendale Waterworks Bouldering Project - a perfect way to support your local activists who work hard to keep us climbing and kick off the summer of sending.
What: Two new Doses from the Dosage video climbing series from Josh and Brett Lowell's Big Up Productions. Starring Tommy Caldwell, Chris Sharma, and Dave Graham. With musical guest Alex Schein.
When: Saturday May 27, Starts at 7pm. Be sure to come early and bring flashlights and portable chairs!
Where: Snyder Estate. 668 Route 213, Rosendale, NY
Admission $10. A portion of the proceeds will benefit the Rosendale Water District.
Directions: From Rock & Snow in New Paltz, take Route 32 North 7 miles
to Rosendale. Left onto Route 213 (at Stewart's on the left). 1.7 miles
to the Snyder Estate on the right.
Josh and Brett Lowell are the producers of Big UP Productions, known for their high quality climbing and bouldering films such as the Dosage series, Pilgrimage, Sessions, and Rampage.
Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition
On May 3rd, the Montana Department of Transportation posted No Parking at the traditional pull-out along Interstate 90 for Bozeman Pass Climbing. Prior to the closure, construction had begun on this section of Interstate, reducing traffic to one lane in each direction. The Montana DOT and the Highway Patrol has since received several notices of motorists slamming on their brakes to avoid accidents.
PLEASE DONT TRY TO PARK THERE OR CLIMB AT THE PASS UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE! Please don't simply pull off the Interstate above or below the normal pull-out, either. Don't park on the opposite side of the Interstate and walk across. Basically, please just find a different place to go climbing for the day.
Members of the SMCC know the importance of this premier summer climbing area to Bozeman climbers and are working to figure out alternate access and will keep the public informed of progress.
Bill Dockins, Access Committee, Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition
Climbers have the opportunity to permanently conserve over 2,000 extraordinary acres on Bozeman Pass. Your message is key to securing critical funding this year! We need you to tell Congress know just how much the community supports this project!
Congress will soon be considering its priorities for the LWCF for FY 2007. Please contact your Congressmen, thank them for securing partial funding for this project last year, and encourage their support for $1.6 million for the Bozeman Pass/Schmidt property funded through the Land and Water Conservation Fund in the FY 2007 Interior Appropriations Bill. The recent closure of Bozeman Pass parking area underscores the need for the Bozeman Pass Land to be purchased by the Gallatin National Forest.
Last year, thanks to an outpouring of public support, Montana's Congressional Delegation secured $1 million in federal funding for this landmark Bozeman Pass conservation project.
Now we need your help again to secure the remaining $1.6 million we need to complete this project.
Exceptional Wildlife, Scenic And Recreational Values
The Trust for Public Land and the Gallatin Valley Land Trust are working in partnership with the Forest Service and the Schmidt family to permanently conserve 2,055 acres on Bozeman Pass including:
A critical link in one of the most endangered wildlife migration corridors in the Yellowstone Park region used by elk, moose, mule deer, black bear, mountain lion and other wide-ranging species.
A new public trail up Chestnut Mountain near the Trail Creek exit south of I-90.
Secure access to a popular rock climbing area.
An Extraordinary Conservation Project
We need Montana's Congressional Delegation to secure an appropriation of $1.6 million from the Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF) in Fiscal Year 2007. This will provide the essential match for $800,000 in Open Space Bond funding already committed by Gallatin County. The final outcome will secure:
640 acres south of I-90, including a right-of-way for the new trail up Chestnut Mountain, to be purchased by the Forest Service.
175 acres north of I-90, including the rock climbing area with a new safe access from the Trail Creek exit, to be donated to the Forest Service by the landowners.
1,240 acres conserved through a Gallatin Valley Land Trust conservation easement
NOTE: Letters to Members of Congress can take months to get through due to security concerns. Instead, please fax, call, or email. To send email, go to the websites listed below.
The Honorable Conrad Burns
U.S. Senate
Washington, D.C. 20510
Phone: 202 224-2644
Fax: 202 224-8594
Website: http://burns.senate.gov
The Honorable Max Baucus
U.S. Senate
Washington, D.C. 20510
Phone: 202 224-2651
Fax: 202 224-0515
Website: http://baucus.senate.gov
The Honorable Dennis Rehberg
U.S. House of Representatives
Washington, D.C. 20515
Phone: 202 225-3211
Fax: 202 225-5687
Website:
?
It's very important to know how many people have contacted out delegation-please fax a copy of your letter to 406-582-1136 or email them to: landtrust@gvlt.org- thank you!!!
EVENTS
05/19-05/21 New River Gorge, WV. 4th Annual New River Rendezvous
www.waterstoneoutdoors.com/spec.aspx?pid=280
05/23-05/24 Cal Poly Climbing Wall, San Luis Obispo, CA. Climb-a-thon
asi.calpoly.edu/uu/polyescapes
05/27-05/28 Reel Pizza Cinerama, Bar Harbor, ME. Acadia Climbing Festival
www.acadiaclimbing.com
05/27-05/28 Domelands Wilderness, CA. Southern Sierra Climbers Assn- Bart Dome Back Country Climb & Trail Spiff and Rebolt
www.southernsierra.org/sscahome.html
06/04-06/04 Portland Rock Gym, OR. Doernbecher Children's Hospital Climb-A-Thon
06/24-06/25 Ponderosa Lodge, Bakersfield, CA. Needles Southern Sierra Slideshow
www.southernsierra.org/sscahome.html
06/30-06/30 Denver Botanic Gardens, Gates Hall, Denver, CO. Jim Collins- long-time Access Fund member, business management scholar, best-selling author, and avid rock climber will share Leadership Lessons of a Rock Climber a special presentation prepared exclusively for this event.
https://www.accessfund.org/JimCollins
07/05-07/09 Lander, WY. International Climbers Festival
www.climbersfestival.org/
05/15 Eldorado Canyon, CO. The Watershed School Eldo Project hosted by The Watershed School. 9am. This event is part of a school program and closed to outside volunteers., Jason Cushner, jcushner@hotmail.com
05/25 Robert L. Stevenson SP, Calistoga, CA. The Mt. St. Helena Litter Clean-Up hosted by the Rock, Ice and Mountain Club., Alex Sebastian, rfalex@sonoma-county.org
05/27 Red River Gorge, KY. The 2006 Red River Rendezvous Trash Clean-Up Contest hosted by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. 10am-6pm, contest judged in the evening at Miguel's Pizza. 1st prize, LaSportiva shoes. For details, visit RRGCC webpage., Bill Strachan, cpstatyk@pipeline.com
06/18 Callahans, Roseburg, OR. Clean-up and Trail Day at the Callahans hosted by climbSWoregon.com and the Outdoor Programs of UOregon and Umpqua CC. 8:30am at Upper Gate, rain-or-shine, clean-up/trailwork in morning, climbing in afternoon. Suzanne Hanlon, shanlon@darkwing.uoregon.edu, Phillip Pennington, philsnatch@hotmail.com
06/21 Flagstaff Mt. and Mt. Sanitas, Boulder, CO. The Total Climbing Camp Adopt-a-Crag hosted by The Boulder Rock Club and Total Climbing. This event is part of a youth climbing camp and closed to outside volunteers., Yelena Brachman, ybrachman@totalclimbing.com
06/28 Flagstaff Mt. and Mt. Sanitas, Boulder, CO. The Total Climbing Camp Adopt-a-Crag hosted by The Boulder Rock Club and Total Climbing. This event is part of a youth climbing camp and closed to outside volunteers., Yelena Brachman, ybrachman@totalclimbing.com
MEMBER BENEFITS
Thanks to prAna, these Limited Edition Hoodies are a smokin' deal! This is the only place you can purchase these hoodies and every penny goes to keeping your climbing areas open (not to mention the added benefit that you'll look good at the crag). Super-sweet 100% cotton lightweight fleece with contrast stitching. Full zip. Artwork by prAna. Quantities limited- get em before they're gone! $42 non members/$38 member price.
100% Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Those old T-shirts you've been wearing have more perforations than Swiss Cheese at City of Rocks. By purchasing our T, you can rebel against corporate dress codes and battle for climbers' rights at the same time. Artwork by Mike Tea. Sizes S, M, L, XL. Color: Black, Olive, Curry, Sand, Brown. $20 non members/
$18 member price
100% Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Designed for a comfortable fit and ideal for steep sport climbs, bold runouts or just hanging out. Artwork by Mike Tea. Sizes S, M, L. Color: Black, Brown. $20 non members/$18 member price.
Uber-ultralight, ripstop nylon shell with a breathable, wind and water-resistant polyurethane coating keeps epic conditions at bay. 3/4-length zipper allows easy on and off without adding unnecessary bulk. Stuffs into its own zippered pocket. Drawcord hem adjustment and elastic cuffs snug things down when the wind makes you rethink the crux moves. Ropegun pictured not included. 3.5oz./100g. Sizes M and XL Only (quantities limited). Color: Phyllite. Retail $89! $32 non members / $27 member price.
Perfect blockheater for long ice-routes, crisp bouldering sessions, or a bad hair day. 100% Merino wool with a soft fleece lining adds a little extra protection from the elements. Tastefully co-branded with the Access Fund and The North Face logos. One Size. Retail $24.50. Non member price $15 / $13.50 member price.
Cruise to the AF website and play ASANA PackWorks' video game Gunther's Big Day www.accessfund.com/extras/game.php Click through to ASANA's site to purchase the full version. $10 from each purchase made through this link will be donated to the AF. Go Gunther! Thanks ASANA!
View Access Fund Ambassador Chris Sharma sending a first ascent in the boulderProject promo spot www.accessfund.org/extras/promo.php
Boulder, CO outdoor guidebook publisher Heidi Knapp of Sharp End Publishing has come up with an amazing idea to support the Access Fund while selling her home. If her buyer is a referral from the Access Fund, Heidi will donate $10,000 to our organization.
The house is located one block from the Wonderland Lake Trailhead in North Boulder, CO has a modern contemporary interior with high-end design elements and is for sale for $624,500. More details, photos, and a downloadable pdf can be found at www.1302redwood.com.
To qualify for the donation, the buyer must advise Ms. Knapp's realtor (Kent Lugbill) of the Access Fund connection and the buyer must use Kent Lugbill as their agent in the transaction. In other words, if the deal is structured with Heidi's agent representing both parties, then Kent Lugbill has agreed to allow Heidi to donate $10,000 of the normal commission to the Access Fund.
If you have questions about this proposal, Heidi is available directly at 303-444-2698 or heidi@sharpendbooks.com. If you'd like to see the home contact Kent Lugbill at 720-308-3554.
Are you a federal employee? Did you know you can donate to The Access Fund through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC)
Federal employees, including federal civilians, military personnel, and U.S. Postal Service workers, can now donate to AF through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC). The CFC is a charitable fundraising program where you give to the Access Fund through automatic payroll deductions.
If you are a federal employee, please look for the Access Fund (agency # 2361) in the official CFC listing of eligible donors. You can also make your contribution on-line by going to: www.conservenow.org, click on Search for a Charity, type in Access Fund and make your contribution there.
If you have additional questions on these programs please contact Whitney Self at: whitney@accessfund.org.