E-News 69
July 2006
THE BETA
NEWS
Jim Collins
Benefit Dinner was a Huge Success
Corporate
Partner Match Membership Drive
Access
Fund Refer-A-Friend Program
UPDATE:
Adopt-a-Crag Challenge 2006
Update: Climbing at Great Falls Park, VA
A Successful July Fourth at Devils Tower, WY
EVENTS
MEMBER BENEFITS
Get your LIMITED EDITION AF Hoodies!
NEWS
Jim Collins, long time
hard-climbing Access Fund member, business management scholar and best selling
author Good to Great, presented ÒLeadership Lessons of a Rock
ClimberÓ at a benefit fundraiser celebrating 15 years of the Access Fund. Mr.
Collins prepared the special discussion specifically for this packed-house
event which was held at the Denver Botanical Gardens in Denver, CO. on June 30th.
We would like to extend
a special thank you to those attending, our table sponsors (Bennett Partners,
Boulder Ventures, and Phoenix Capital), and, corporate sponsors (Veramonte
Wine, Avery Brewing Co, and Ooh La La Fleur).
An enormous thank you to
Jim Collins for putting on such a unique and spectacular evening for the Access
Fund on behalf of the entire climbing community. The proceeds raised at the
event will go directly to keeping your local crags open around the country.
Due
to a grant from the Access Fund, YosemiteÕs climbers now have a convenient and
effective way of storing food while they are on overnight climbs in the Valley.
There are five bear-proof lockers at El Cap crossover, two lockers at DevilÕs
Elbow (at the traditional approach for Zodiac and other South East face
routes), two at Bridalveil falls parking for the Leaning Tower, and two more at
the Ahwahnee parking/trailhead for Washington Column. Please use them and
remember to pack out all garbage.
A BIG THANKS goes out
to our Corporate Partners who participated in our pilot Corporate Match Membership
Drive!
Employees of Access Fund Corporate Sponsors can receive a full value membership
at a special discounted rate. The offer is an excellent opportunity for us to
work together, further strengthen our mission, and boost support and outreach to
the entire climbing community.
BLACK DIAMOND took the
lead with 47 of their employees joining the AF.
LA SPORTIVA NORTH
AMERICA had 100% participation,
bringing in 14 members.
METOLIUS brought in 7 members. PRANA, OUTDOOR RESEARCH,
THE NORTH FACE, and CASCADE DESIGNS are also participating and will be wrapping
up their membership drives soon.
If youÕre a Corporate Partner or an employee of an AF partner, and would like
to participate, contact Membership Director Kerry Cowan at kerry@accessfund.org
or call 888-8-MEMBER x106.
As Peter Metcalf
President of Black Diamond said: ÒAll of us at BD are proud of what the Access
Fund does for American Climbing and it is our pleasure to do this once a year.Ó
Thanks to all who
participated!
If you donÕt vote in an
election, you canÕt criticize its outcome. Likewise, if youÕre unhappy with the
management of your favorite climbing areas, you can: a) Get involved by joining the Access Fund and you Local
Climbing Organization, or b) Shut your pie-hole. Excerpt
from the Spring Õ06 Black Diamond catalog
WeÕre always talking
about how important membership is to the future of climbing. Now We Need Your HelpÉand WeÕre Busting Out
The Swag!
ItÕs Easy: Know a climber whoÕs not a member? Get them to
join and receive free stuff. The more people you get to join, the more free
stuff you get!
Refer TWO Friends and receive a Nalgene Flask.
Refer FOUR Friends and receive a Nalgene Flask and a Dri-release
wool T-shirt from Outdoor Research.
Refer SIX Friends and receive a Nalgene Flask, a Dri-release wool
T-shirt from Outdoor Research, and a North Face Merino wool beanie cap.
The two top referrers will receive a bonus gift
package worth over $150.
You are the greatest testimony to the benefit
of membership!
REFER your friends by sending them to this
link: www.accessfund.org/join
á They must enter your name in the ÒReferred byÓ
box on the join form in order for their membership to count towards your total
tally.
á Awards will be sent on a monthly basis as your
referrals accumulate.
á Program will reset December, 31st 2006
so you have until the end of the year to receive these gifts.
á The Access Fund reserves the right to substitute
any gift based on availability.
As of July 14th
we have climbed 57 of the 120
pitches on El Cap, completing the West Buttress and Lurking Fear on the CaptainÕs dramatic left side, and finding
ourselves 18 pitches up the Muir Wall.
Together we will attempt
to at least match Access Fund Ambassador and Board member Tommy CaldwellÕs
accomplishments by repeating all 4 of his first free ascents on El Cap with each
pitch representing an Adopt-a-Crag event. If we succeed this far, we will work to establish our own first
free ascent on El Cap via the 23 pitch Magic Mushroom and set the new standard of success. The tick
list is as follows, with a grand total of 120 pitches. LetÕs get it done!
1)West Buttress – VI 5.13c, 20 pitches
2)Lurking Fear – VI 5.13c, 19 pitches
3)Muir Wall – VI 5.13c, 33 pitches
4)Dihedral Wall – VI 5.14a, 25 pitches
5)Magic Mushroom – VI 5.14?, 23 pitches
Sitting 18 pitches up
the Muir Wall, having just
completed two consecutive 5.13 pitches, weÕre saying Òsee yaÓ to the other
parties on the wall that have split off to tackle The Shield headwall and Triple Direct. WeÕve put our Gore-tex on as the wind picks up
and storm clouds threaten. No worries though, as our bags are well stocked for
this ground-up ascent, and weÕre recovering well between pitches; summit or
bustÉand bust is not an option!
Help us stay motivated
and repeat this route. Register your Adopt-a-Crag event now. Trash clean-up? Trail maintenance? Hardware
replacement or climber signage? Invite the local community out to celebrate
their crag!
To register an event
or find one in your area visit http://www.accessfund.org/cons/aacreg.php
For more information contact Kristo
Torgersen:
303.545.6772 x105, kristo@accessfund.org or logon to http://www.accessfund.org/adopt/
Thomson Ling, Access
Fund Regional Coordinator
Last year many climbers
commented on the draft General Management Plan/Environment Impact Statement
(GMP/EIS) the National Park Service presented for Great Falls Park, VA. In
March this year, four representatives of Friends of Great Falls www.friendsofgreatfalls.com
reviewed the public comments that were submitted in response to the draft
GMP/EIS for Great Falls Park. This review of the comments was arranged through
the Great Falls Park Planner, and took place at Turkey Run.
Friends of Great Falls has prepared a summary of the analysis of the comments
which can be found at www.friendsofgreatfalls.com.
This summary concentrates on the overall response of the local climbing
community, rather than on specific comments. For this reason references to
individual comments have been omitted, although comments from certain organizations
have been credited. Friends of Great Falls recognizes the assistance of the
National Park Service (NPS) in reviewing the public comments while the
management plan process is ongoing.
In addition, the
National Park Service has undertaken a multi-year study to examine the vertical
rock faces of the Potomac Gorge (which includes Carderock, MD and Great Falls,
VA). This study will document plant communities and soils living on and near
cliff surfaces in the Potomac River Gorge. Additionally, the study will assess
any impacts of recreation use and park visitation on these important cliff
habitats. The first phases of the study have already begun and the tentative
completion date is 2009. Currently, the researchers are being assisted by local
climbers from Friends of Great Falls who are helping the researchers locate the
various climbing areas included as part of the research design. The study is
being led by Dr. Jeff Marion, who is a researcher with the US Geological
Survey.
We are delighted that Dr. Marion is the lead researcher for this project as he
is a climber as well as a researcher and understands the value of conservation
as well as recreation. Our hope is that through sound research from Dr. Marion,
we can identify ways that climbing and conservation can co-exist in the Potomac
Gorge.
Please keep checking www.friendsofgreatfalls.com for
updates on climbing along the Potomac Gorge.
Evan Fales, Access
Fund Regional Coordinator and President of the Iowa Climbers Coalition
A
temporary closure has been declared to all forms of climbing in the section of
Indian Bluffs Wildlife Management Area north of Chimney Rock. This
includes three sport routes, Saving Grace, Wedding Bells, and an unnamed route. The closure will be in
effect this summer while the Iowa DNR completes a Compatible Use Evaluation,
including a survey of algific habitat in the closure area for rare and
sensitive species. Please respect this closure. For more info visit the
Iowa ClimbersÕ CoalitionÕs website: www.geocities.com/eiowacc/
Shawn
Tracy, Minnesota Climbers Association
Sandstone,
MN
The
Minnesota Climbers Association has assisted several ambitious local climbers in
legalizing rock and ice climbing in a quaint sandstone quarry in east-central
Minnesota. Climbing has occurred within this park/quarry for at least 30 years
on a "don't ask, don't tell" basis upheld by both climbers and the
City of Sandstone. Initial work towards opening access started in summer of
2005 with two clean-up events, brush clearing and campsite establishment for
the city. All of these events were carried out by climbers from Minnesota
and Wisconsin. An ice climbing festival followed these events with both
natural and farmed ice for close to 100 participants to enjoy. Over the
winter of 2005-2006, a climbing management plan was drafted by climbers and
ultimately accepted including wordage for ice farming. A climber's
advisory committee was established for new route development oversight and
to protect the City's interests. The park hosts a handful
of beautiful rock routes including Sigma, 5.12+, one of Minnesota's finest
climbs. Several natural ice and testy mixed routes are also climbed in the
park with plans set for establishing a sustainable ice farm.
Interstate
Park, Taylors Falls, MN
A
long-closed rock formation has officially been reopened within Minnesota's side
of the two-state park, Interstate Park. Devil's Chair is a free-standing basalt
column with a fine 5.9 hand crack running itsÕ length. A wobbly block on
top of the formation forced the park to close the route many years ago. The
block has since fallen and the Minnesota Climbers Association negotiated its
reopening this spring. This success is likely due to the Association's
annual Adopt-a-Crag event that has been held in the park since 2000.
By Bill Strachan,
Executive Director, Red River Gorge ClimbersÕ Coalition
The third payment out of
ten annual mortgage payments for the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve
(PMRP) in Lee County, Kentucky has recently been made by the Red River Gorge
ClimbersÕ Coalition (RRGCC).
The ability of the RRGCC to make this payment was made possible, in part, due
to a $2,500 Climbing Preservation Grant from the Access Fund. The efforts of
the www.redriverclimbing.com
website community as spearheaded by Michelle Ellington helped to raise a
significant portion of the remaining funds for the 2006 PMRP payment. Because
of her efforts, Michelle received the RRGCC Volunteer of the Year Award
presented during the 2006 Red River Rendezvous over Memorial Day Weekend.
Congratulations Michelle and thank you to the Access Fund and to all who
contributed time, money, or both in our continuing efforts to secure climbing at
the PMRP.
Climbers Make Project of LAC Process
Limits
of Acceptable Change, or LAC, is a nine step US Forest Service planning process
that is currently being conducted for the Red River Gorge. See: http://www.fs.fed.us/r8/boone/lac/
To
conduct the LAC Resource Inventory USFS employees, interns, and volunteers used
high-end GPS units to locate all trails, campsites, destination points,
archaeological sites, and climbing areas in the Gorge. Data concerning the
conditions of these resources was also measured and recorded. The end product
of Step 4 has been an amazing GIS database that can be queried and manipulated
to produce maps and charts of recreational use and impacts. Recently, in May
2006, LAC participants and USFS personnel went on a field trip along the
Osbourne Bend trail to Moonshiner Wall, Moonshiners Arch, and then back along
the Douglas Trail to get a first hand feel of how actual conditions on the
ground relate to the GIS database.
Right
now in Step 5, the focus of the LAC Workshops is determining measurable
standards or limits defining acceptable resource conditions. Further on, in
Step 7, management actions to bring impacted areas back to within acceptable
standards will be developed. Steps 6 and 8 of LAC will likely have the most
influence on the future of rock climbing. In Step 6, LAC Workshop participants
will map the Gorge into zones according to different levels of recreational
opportunity and experience. Six distinct opportunity zones have been determined
by the LAC group for which standards are being developed: Pristine, Primitive,
Semi-primitive, Roaded Natural, Concentrated Use, and Critical Resource /
Habitat. Several opportunity zone alternatives will be developed in Step 6,
then in Step 8 the group will select a preferred alternative.
In
addition to myself as Executive Director, Red River Gorge ClimbersÕ Coalition
(RRGCC) Board members Shannon Stuart-Smith and Dwight Bradburn have been
consistent LAC Workshop attendees since this process began in summer 2004.
Other climbers involved with these workshops include Chris Carr, a graduate student
and Ph.D. candidate in Recreational Ecology at the University of Cincinnati who
studied climbing impacts in Red River Gorge for his masterÕs thesis and
assisted the USFS in conducting a Resource Inventory, Step 4 of the LAC.
All climbers are
encouraged to learn as much as possible about LAC through browsing the
information on the Daniel Boone National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r8/boone/. The RRGCC
also welcomes any climber inquiry, comment, and input as our involvement will
ultimately have a significant influence on the future of climbing in Red River
Gorge. www.rrgcc.org/
Chris
Moratz, Access Fund Regional Coordinator
The
Peregrine Falcon closure in the Trapps has now been lifted for 2006. The
cooperation of all climbers in this arena has been fantastic and the Gunks
Climbers Coalition (GCC) would like to thank the climbing community for their
excellent help. The fact that sections of cliffs have to be closed is
unfortunate but it is critical that climbers comply to maintain our excellent
relationship with the Mohonk Preserve and protect the future of the Peregrine
Falcon. The birds, the mountain, and the Preserve thank us.
The
mountain also thanks us for every selfless act of giving that we do such as
volunteering for the Williams trail crew that has been steadily improving
access trails for the last two to three years. Recently the trail crew was
working in the Trapps near the GuideÕs Wall, felling trees and moving large
rocks to shore up the trails. We had such a great time and were thanked by many
passers-by for our work.
This
is a message for all climbers. Join and volunteer for the Preserve, donate or
give in whatever way you can. The trail work in particular is a full body
workout and is guaranteed to build hand strength. It is also guaranteed to kick
your leading ability up at least a grade or two! If you give back to the
mountain it will give back to you.
Christine Czazasty
Devils Tower National Monument continued its centennial
celebration with special activities on July 4th. The events highlighted the
climbing history at Devils Tower. Visitors came from as far away as Florida and
New Jersey to enjoy the activities. Superintendent Dorothy FireCloud said,
"I am pleased so many people participated in our Fourth of July
Celebration. Our two special events have been very successful and I invite
everyone to come enjoy our remaining three events as we celebrate Devils Tower
National Monument's centennial".
The day began with an American flag ceremony by the Calvary
re-enactors from Sturgis, South Dakota, followed by a human flag organized by
the Black Hills Area Boy Scout Council. Forty-five visitors participated in a
free beginners climbing workshop offered throughout the day. The Black Hills
Climber Coalition participated by climbing the Tower and displaying an American
flag. To the delight of visitors, volunteer Chris Klinger dressed as Uncle Sam
and climbed the Tower in various locations. More than sixty people visited with
Devils Tower's climbing pioneers such as Todd Skinner, Paul Piana, Jim McCarthy
and Dennis Horning. Jan Conn, the first woman to rock climb the Tower, also
told stories of her climbing experiences. The day concluded with a spectacular
fireworks display at the Devils Tower
KOA campground.
Devils Tower was proclaimed America's first national monument on
September
24, 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt. Centennial events will
continue with the Cowboy Festival on July 22-23, the American Indian Heritage
Weekend on August 25-27, and conclude with the Anniversary Celebration on
September 22-24. For more information and a complete schedule of events, please
visit www.nps.gov/deto or call 307-467-5283.
EVENTS
8/9—8/13 Outdoor Retailer Tradeshow, Salt Lake City. If
youÕre at the show, swing by our booth and say ÒhiÓ. Booth #60064
8/11 Scarpa/Urban Climber Magazine Access Fund Party,
Salt Lake City. Raffle, food, and brew. 4-6, Scarpa booth #8039
8/12 Prana after-party benefiting the Access Fund,
Salt Lake City. Club Vegas, 10PM. Bring your groove.
09/16—09/17 Ross Park, Pocatello, ID. Pocatello Pump!
09/16—09/17 Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, AR. 24 Hours of
Horseshoe Hell
www.24hoursofhorseshoe.com
Register Your Adopt-a-Crag Now!
07/22
Ruth Lake, Uintas, UT. The Ruth
Lake Crag and Trail Day hosted by Backcountry.com. Meet at 9:30am, wear
shoes/hiking boots, bring water, coffee and food provided, BBQ and gear raffle
to follow. Get more info at http://backcountry.typepad.com/ruthlake/event_details/index.html,
Kendall Card, kcard@backcountry.com
07/30
Crested Butte, CO. The Butte
Bouldering Bonanza hosted by Duffy Hutchins. A follow-up to Saturday's comp,
Duffy Hutchins, duffyhutchins1@hotmail.com
08/05
Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve, Red River Gorge, KY. The 2nd Annual John Bronaugh & Alex Yeakley
Memorial Adopt-a-Crag Day hosted by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition.
After party at Lago Linda on Saturday 8/5, Bill Strachan, cpstatyk@pipeline.com
08/05
Buena Vista Crags, CO. The Buena
Vista Adopt-a-Crag hosted by Lee Jenkins. The event starts at 9am, with
stewardship projects at Turtle Rock, Bob's Rock, Split Rock, and surrounding
areas, Lee Jenkins, leejenkins56@yahoo.com
08/12
McHugh Creek Trailhead, Anchorage, AK.
The Anchorage REI Adopt-a-Crag hosted by REI. Remove old slings, clean-up
graffiti, and work on trail erosion mitigation to help clean-up Turnagain Arm
and win tons of great prizes! Andrew Cutting, acuttin@rei.com
08/20
Rabbit Ears, OR. The Rabbit Ears
Re-bolting Development hosted by McKenzie Outfitters & The Ledge. 9am-5pm,
Jimmy Hammerle, jimhammerle@hotmail.com
08/26
Meadow Crags on the Deschutes River, OR. The Meadow Climbing Clean-Up hosted by Traditional Mountaineering.
Meet at 9am to improve access trails and replace old anchors, Robert Speik, speik@bendcable.com
MEMBER BENEFITS
Get member only
discounts on all the new stuff in the Access Fund MemberSHOP! www.accessfund.org/membershop
Thanks to
prAna, these Limited Edition Hoodies are a smokin' deal! This is the only place you can purchase these
hoodies and every penny goes to keeping your climbing areas open (not to
mention the added benefit that you'll look good at the crag). Super-sweet 100%
cotton lightweight fleece with contrast stitching. Full zip. Artwork by prAna.
Quantities limited- get em before they're gone! S-XL $42 non members/$38 member price.
100% Organic
Cotton prAna T-shirts. Those old T-shirts you've been wearing have more
perforations than Swiss Cheese at City of Rocks. By purchasing our T, you can
rebel against corporate dress codes and battle for climbers' rights at the same
time. Artwork by Mike Tea. Sizes S, M, L, XL. Color: Black, Olive, Curry, Sand,
Brown. $20 non members/$18 member price
100% Organic
Cotton prAna T-shirts. Designed for a comfortable fit and ideal for steep
sport climbs, bold runouts or just hanging out. Artwork by Mike Tea. Sizes S, M, L. Color: Black, Brown. $20 non members/$18 member price.
Uber-ultralight, ripstop
nylon shell with a breathable, wind and water-resistant polyurethane coating
keeps epic conditions at bay. 3/4-length zipper allows easy on and off without
adding unnecessary bulk. Stuffs into its own zippered pocket. Drawcord hem
adjustment and elastic cuffs snug things down when the wind makes you rethink
the crux moves. Ropegun pictured not included. 3.5oz./100g. Sizes M and XL Only
(quantities limited). Color: Phyllite. Retail $89! $32 non members / $27
member price.
Cruise to the
AF website and play ASANA PackWorks' video game Gunther's Big Day www.accessfund.com/extras/game.php Click through to ASANA's site to purchase the
full version. $10 from each purchase made through this link will be donated to
the AF. Go Gunther! Thanks ASANA!
View Access
Fund Ambassador Chris Sharma sending a first ascent in the boulderProject promo
spot www.accessfund.org/extras/promo.php
Are you a
federal employee? Did you know you can donate to The Access Fund through the
federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC)?
Federal
employees, including federal civilians, military personnel, and U.S. Postal
Service workers, can now donate to AF through the federal government's Combined
Federal Campaign (CFC). The CFC is a charitable fundraising program where you
give to the Access Fund through automatic payroll deductions.
If you are a federal
employee, please look for the Access Fund (agency # 2361) in the official CFC
listing of eligible donors. You can also make your contribution on-line by
going to: www.conservenow.org, click on Search for a Charity, type in Access
Fund and make your contribution there.
If you have additional
questions on these programs please contact Whitney Self at: whitney@accessfund.org.