The Oregon bill that proposes mandating climbers on Mt Hood to carry emergency locator beacons has been all over the national media for the past few weeks.

The Access Fund’s stance opposes the mandatory use of these simple one way devices and interestingly enough this has become major fodder for everything from print media to radio talk shows to major TV network shows.

“Climbers are a close-knit community and we never want to see one of our own in a rescue or recovery situation but this bill won’t necessarily make the mountain safer. Even if the beacons make it easier to locate parties, what if there’s a three-day storm? Climbing is always about calculated risk and nothing can replace experience.” Says Access Fund Executive Director, Steve Matous.

Steve Rollins with Portland Mountain Rescue who has performed the rescues on Mt. Hood these last few months agrees with the Access Fund stance. Rollins says the legislature can't mandate good judgment. "In an urban environment, we do everything we can do to make the world safe around us. And that is one of the beauties of the backcountry, that it is untouched and it really is you and nature. I'm a strong believer that the laws of nature are going to be far more powerful than any law our legislators come up with. And if we can educate people to respect the laws of nature more, that will go a lot further than any law that we come up with."

The bill, while laudable in light of recent high profile rescue and recovery efforts that were featured in mainstream media of climbers on Oregon’s Mt. Hood, is a knee-jerk reaction and will not prevent climbers from being injured or killed in climbing related accidents. The bill simply adds a layer of red-tape to climbing a mountain and at worst could actually give less experienced climbers a sense of false security when presented with conditions out of their control (such as the fast-moving weather systems of the Pacific Northwest). See the Access Fund testimony on the bill http://www.accessfund.org/pdf/HR_2509_Testimony.pdf

For more of the national media attention, visit these links:

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=7770277&sc=emaf

http://thenewshole.msnbc.msn.com/articles/64101.aspx (by all accounts a curious honor for the Access Fund)

Guided Climbing Approved at Sky Top, NY

By Christopher Spatz, Gunks Climbers’ Coalition and Access Fund RC

Starting April 1, 2007, overnight guests of the Mohonk Mountain House will have the opportunity to climb at Sky Top with an approved guide. Guiding costs are in addition to hotel accommodations. Unescorted guests, day guests, and the public are not permitted to rock climb at Sky Top at this time.

This agreement is the result of several years of negotiations between former Access Fund Board member Russ Clune, Access Fund Community Partner Alpine Endeavors www.alpineendeavors.com and the Mohonk Mountain House www.mohonk.com. The facts sheet on their arrangement is also available on the GCC’s website: www.gunksclimbers.org and at www.mohonkmountainguides.com

Sky Top has been closed to climbers since the mid 1990s. Historically, it is one of the most significant crags on the continent. Sky Top’s sublime setting is home to one of the earliest routes in the Shawangunks, Fritz Weissner’s 1935 Gargoyle, moderate classics like Grey Face, Pilgrim’s Progress, and Sound & Fury, as well as Trad testpieces that advanced North American rock climbing standards, Foops and Supercrack.

AREA UPDATES

Proposed Seasonal Closures to Protect Nesting Raptors, CA

By Kirsten Winter, Cleveland National Forest Biologist

*This is a new scoping effort, and a new comment period has been started. Comments will be accepted until April 2, 2007

The Cleveland National Forest (Cleveland NF) is proposing seasonal area closures to protect golden eagles and prairie falcons at three locations.

The Cleveland NF is initiating the scoping process under the requirements of the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) of 1970. Scoping is the means by which the Forest Service identifies the important environmental and social issues to be considered in developing and analyzing a proposed action. Your site-specific comments are requested to help us identify relevant issues, evaluate the proposed action, and develop possible alternatives.

The proposed seasonal area closures were initially proposed for NEPA analysis under a categorical exclusion, as summarized in a scoping letter dated December 11, 2006, and sent to local user groups. Based on public input and a further refinement of the proposed action, the Cleveland NF has chosen to undertake an environmental assessment to analyze the proposed action. The public will have 30 days to provide responses to this scoping letter. The Cleveland NF will then prepare an environmental assessment.

The public will have 30 days to comment on the analysis contained in the environmental assessment. The proposed action may be modified based on scientifically and legally sound information that is received during any of the comment periods. After considering the comments received on the environmental assessment, the Cleveland NF will make a decision.

All comments submitted in response to the December 11, 2006 scoping letter will be retained in the project file for the current proposed action. These comments will be considered during analysis and do not need to be resubmitted.

For more detailed information, including the scoping letter and maps describing the proposed action, please see the Cleveland National Forest website at

www.fs.fed.us/r5/cleveland/projects/projects/seasonal-closures/index.shtml

Farley Ledge, MA

By Jeff Squire, Access Fund Regional Coordinator and President, WMCC

Since the early December, the Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition has been actively raising money to secure a 9-acre parcel of land at the base of Farley Ledge. Farley Ledge represents a unique and unspoiled natural outdoor recreation area in Erving, Massachusetts and represents a primary rock-climbing destination in New England. The area also includes one of the most impressive sections of the nationally recognized Metacomet-Monadnock Trail and valuable state identified wildlife habitat.

This preservation project marks the climax of a six year effort on behalf of the WMCC to secure access to Farley Ledge. A Purchase and Sale Agreement has been signed for the property and the WMCC fully intends on moving ahead.

The local community has rallied to donate over $22,000 to this project so far and we have gained the support of local towns, land trusts, state agencies, and area officials. A closing date is scheduled for April 1st and we desperately need to close the gap to secure this important piece of property.

Fundraisers planned for upcoming months include area visits from Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell (March 2-4), Nick and Heather Sagar (March 2-4) and John Bragg (April 7).

This is a project that will significantly affect climbing in Massachusetts and southern New England and it needs everyone’s support. Donations are being accepted through the WMCC website www.westernmacc.com or the old fashioned way. Above all else, help spread the word about this effort so that we might capture the attention of those willing to help.

Indian Creek Update, UT

By Emma Medara, Friends of Indian Creek

The BLM has installed a toilet at the Beef Basin turnoff. This is a great addition to our human waste management program. While it is only one toilet, and is not there to replace the use of the human waste bags, it gives relief to the large number of waste bags that are being used through the successful program.

Please continue to use the waste bags when it is not convenient to use the toilet (at the crag or at the campsite or anywhere where you do not have access to the toilet).

Donations for waste bags last season were great, and together with money raised from t-shirt sales, slide shows and financial contributions from manufacturers, we have just ordered 2500 more waste bags to keep the dispensers stocked for the spring season. However, please don't always rely on these dispensers being fully stocked. Please be prepared by bringing in your own waste bags.

There is information on www.friendsofindiancreek.org about alternative backcountry toilet systems. It is our intention to phase out supplying human waste bags in the future, but this will not mean that everybody can go back to digging holes. We will all have to be responsible for ourselves and provide our own systems of packing out.

The future of Indian Creek, whether there are human waste bags or not, will still depend on climbers managing themselves and the area responsibly and packing out human waste.

Everyone is doing a great job, and the donations are a huge help. Please keep helping us by not poohing in holes, keeping to the designated camping areas, and keeping those donations coming in.

Go to the website www.friendsofindiancreek.org for updated information.

Shenandoah National Park Climbers Alliance, VA

By Ocean Eiler, Access Fund Regional Coordinator

In order to give a united voice to climbers who climb in Shenandoah National Park, a new group is forming: the Shenandoah National Park Climbers Alliance (SNPCA). SNPCA is an informal, volunteer, grassroots group that will represent your interests as climbers in the Shenandoah National Park.

As you may be aware, Shenandoah National Park includes climbing sites such as Little Stony Man and Old Rag Mountain (one of few granite climbing areas in the mid-Atlantic region). Initially, SNPCA will focus on building a constructive and mutually trustworthy relationship with the staff of the Shenandoah National Park as they prepare a climbing management plan under their Rock Outcrop Management Project. Ultimately, the SNPCA will serve as a channel for input from the climbing community to the Park staff that will be essential to preserving the high quality of climbing that we have come to enjoy in the Shenandoah National Park.

SNPCA is looking for climbers who want to get involved and help ensure that climbing remains accessible at Shenandoah National Park. There's plenty to do—please get involved!

For more information on how to get involved, or if you have questions, please contact the SNPCA at snpclimbersalliance@gmail.com or visit www.snpclimbersalliance.blogspot.com

Please feel free to pass this along to anyone who might be interested--we want to get the word out to as many people as possible!

Website: http://www.snpclimbersalliance.blogspot.com/

Email : snpclimbersalliance@gmail.com

Nelson Rocks Preserve, WV

By Ocean Eiler, Access Fund Regional Coordinator

Follow up for previous Enews: www.accessfund.org/regions/news/WV

January 27th of 2007, In response to the recent real estate listing of Nelson Rocks Preserve, WV, climbers in the Washington DC area held a round table. Nelson Rocks Preserve is a privately owned outdoor recreation area, featuring many climbing routes, via ferrata climbing, hiking, and camping.

The round table discussions lead by Access Fund Regional Coordinator Thomson Ling discussed the options for preserving climbing access at Nelson Rocks Preserve and helped to facilitate the ground work for positive action.

With roughly 20 people in attendance, the discussions were inquisitive and demonstrated climbers’ motivation to preserve access to Nelson Rocks.

For information please contact Thomson Ling or Ocean Eiler at: thomsonling@dcmetroclimbing.com or ocean@dcmetroclimbing.com.

Sending “The Business” in Red River Gorge, KY

By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition

As of Mid-February 2007 almost $16,000 had been collected towards the annual mortgage payment for the RRGCC owned Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) in Lee County, Kentucky. With the annual payment of $29,393 due on July 15, the RRGCC is continuing to ramp up its efforts to secure this purchase (For donation info see: http://www.rrgcc.org/membership.php).

The PMRP, with over 700-acres of land, is home to well over 300 routes with new lines being discovered and developed weekly. At the end of 2006, the first 5.14c in Red River Gorge was established when Mike Doyle redpointed “Lucifer” at the Purgatory area of the PMRP.

Equally important, the US Forest Service has stepped up the pace of the Red River Gorge Limits of Acceptable Change (LAC) workshops. Currently on Step 6 of the nine-step process, participation by local climbers is key to maintaining climbing access on Federally owned land in the Gorge. Now meeting more than once a month, workshop participants are presently working to “identify alternative opportunity zone allocations.” At the heart of these meetings is an effort to find a solution that works for all stakeholders, the main options being: 1) emphasis on resource protection; 2) balance between resource protection and recreation; 3) emphasis on recreation and tourism; and 4) no action.

Finally the RRGCC has scheduled two Adopt-A-Crag Day events for 2007. The first event will be held in conjunction with the Red River Reunion being held at Miguel’s Pizza & Rock Climbing in Slade, KY on April 21, 2007. In keeping with the spirit of Earth Day, this Adopt-A-Crag Day will have a Gorge-wide Trash Clean-up and Scavenging Contest. Contestants will present their most interesting pieces of trash to be judged by the crowd that evening at Miguel’s.

Also, this year the 3^rd Annual John Bronaugh & Alex Yeakley Adopt-A-Crag Day will be held on August 4, 2007 at the PMRP. This event is devoted to developing new routes and supporting trail development. Held since 2005, this day honors the legacy of the late John Bronaugh and the passion for climbing that he shared with his late son Alex Yeakley.

AF NEWS

The Access Fund Is Hiring

Programs Director (Pd) March 2007

Since 1990, the Access Fund has been the only national advocacy organization whose mission is to keep climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 1.6 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing; Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, and Bouldering. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: public policy, stewardship & conservation (including grants), grassroots activism, climber education, and land acquisition. We believe in the diversity of the climbing experience, an ethic of personal responsibility, self regulation, minimal impact and sound management of climbing resources throughout the United States.

The PD is responsible for implementation of the following Access Fund strategic objectives:

1) Grassroots programs:--empowering local climbing communities to address access and conservation concerns through outreach, advocacy, education and stewardship.

a. This includes grassroots organizing, campaign development and organizational management; providing support necessary for local organizations and activists, long-range tactical planning of grassroots organizational objectives and fundamental strategies.

2) Direct action:--any external initiative directed and fulfilled by AF staff, where necessary and appropriate action is required to successfully achieve our mission.

To implement these strategies the candidate should have a basic understanding of public land law, the administrative process (working with land management agencies) and how to communicate within those bureaucracies.

The PD’s work is accomplished through grassroots support programs and direct action campaigns that empower local climbing communities to address access and conservation concerns through outreach, advocacy, education and stewardship. The PD must be a climber and know, support and espouse Access Fund policy positions and statements. The PD works closely with the Executive Director, Policy Director and Associate Programs Director, having direct supervision of the latter. The PD works with the Executive Director on preparation of the departmental budget. This position is employed at the Access Fund’s national headquarters in Boulder, Colorado and the PD maintains an office in this facility. Travel is required around the United States to climbing areas and communities.

Key requirements include: Ability to advocate on behalf of the climbing community using excellent written and oral communication skills; mature professional judgment and the ability to establish and maintain relationships with individuals, organizations and other external partners; ability to work collaboratively, but also comfortable taking initiative in a fast-paced organization; work well with, motivate, and organize volunteers; ability to identify and evaluate specific, local issues within the context of national policy; comfortable and knowledgeable at organizing advocates on a grassroots level. Knowledge of acquisitions, easements and other land protection tools.

Competency in MS Office and related programs necessary, comfortable with online forums, excel, and data base skills. Ability and experience using web based programs to organize, communicate, and evaluate a plus. Climbing background required. The successful candidate will be a passionate individual who is comfortable in public settings, meeting and working with adversaries and friends towards win-win solutions.

Competitive salary and benefits. Small, progressive workplace in Boulder, Colorado.

Send resume and cover letter electronically no later than March 31 2007 to the Access Fund Executive Director at: Steve@accessfund.org with “Programs Director 2007” as the email subject.

No calls or paper submissions.

Red Rock Canyon Climbing Event to Benefit the Access Fund

Las Vegas, NV - The fourth annual “Mountain Gear Presents: Red Rock

Rendezvous” rock climbing festival has announced 16 world-class climbers that will act as clinic guides during the three day event. Clinic guides include: Roxanna Brock, Tommy Caldwell, Malcolm Daly, Anthony Grice, Brittany Griffith, Arno Ilgner, Joe Kinder, Chris Lindner, Ivo Ninov, Andy Raether, Beth Rodden, Adam Stack, Paul Stein, Jack Tackle, Sonnie Trotter and Cedar Wright.

“Every year of this event, I am blown away at the caliber of athletes that will be working with Red Rock Rendezvous participants,” said Paul Fish, president of Mountain Gear. “We are excited to give climbers an opportunity to learn from these athletes that they have read about and seen pictures of in magazines and books.”

With Mountain Gear as presenting sponsor and The North Face as title sponsor, the Red Rock Rendezvous will return to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area near Las Vegas on March 23-25 to benefit The Access Fund and other local and national non-profit organizations. Due to the growing popularity of the festival, this year’s event has expanded clinic areas to offer more traditional, sport and aid climbing sites and routes than the prior Red Rock festivals.

The festival will again offer a Friday “Intro to Climbing at the Red Rocks” clinic day for less experienced climbers and those who have never attempted the difficulty levels of the Red Rock Canyon. The full-day “intro” clinics will teach climbing fundamentals to succeed at the Red Rocks and any other outdoor setting. The clinics will take place in an intimate clinic setting by guides from the American Alpine Institute who are also some of the world’s most accomplished climbers. “Intro” participants will then be able to enjoy two additional half-day clinics throughout the weekend. There will also be an optional gear package that will include harness, helmet, shoes, belay device, carabiner, chalk bag and a membership to the Access Fund. Participants can get the gear package, the Friday “Intro” day, two additional half-day clinics and event festivities for $349.

The festival will also offer clinics for advanced, intermediate and beginning climbers on Saturday and Sunday. Registration is $75 per person for the Saturday and Sunday events, and $239 per person for the Friday “Intro” day and Saturday and Sunday clinic combo. Registration includes the Friday night opening celebration, free climbing at Red Rock Canyon when not in formal clinics, a dinner buffet on Saturday night, demos, comps and mini-seminars by event sponsors, a blow-out party and slide show on Saturday night, pancake breakfast Sunday morning and service projects to assist in the environmental conservation of the Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain. For only $35, participants can receive access to all of the Spring Mountain festivities.

More than 400 climbers throughout the nation are anticipated to attend the 2007 event. The different crag areas identified for clinic sites feature a selection of some of the best climbing areas in Red Rock Canyon and will feature bolted sport climbing, multi-pitch traditional routes, big wall techniques and bouldering problems for all climbing levels.

The Access Fund, one of the beneficiaries for The Red Rock Rendezvous, is a national non-profit organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment. Other non-profits include the American Safe Climbing Association, the American Alpine Club, Friends of Red Rocks and the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council.

All of the festival activities outside of the climbing clinics will take place at Spring Mountain Ranch State Park located approximately 10 minutes from the entrance to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

For more information and to register, call 800.829.2009 or visit www.mountaingear.com/rr07

You SNEWS, You win

Our friends over at SNEWS, www.snewsnet.com, (the indisputable leader of outdoor industry news) have been an Access Fund Corporate Partner for a number of years. This year as part of a massive outdoor retailer survey, they gave survey participants the choice of either a complimentary SNEWS subscription or selecting the Access Fund to receive a donation from SNEWS. The more participants who selected the Access Fund, the bigger the check would be—well, a whole bunch of retailers chose the latter and SNEWS cut the AF a big fat check. A big fat thanks to Michael and gang! Keep up the good work!

Buy Hans Florine’s House

Okay, not really, but you can buy the lot he owns next door. If Hans sells it through a referral from the AF, he will donate a chunk of the sale to the Access Fund!

Hans Florine has a lot for sale in Yosemite National Park. If you are interested follow this link: http://hansbasecamp.com/lot.html

Mention to Hans that you found out about it from the Access Fund and Hans will make a nice donation to the AF.

Refer-a-Friend

It’s Easy: Know a climber who’s not a member? Get them to join and receive free stuff. The more people you get to join, the more free stuff you get!

Every time your name is entered as a referrer, you are entered into a contest to win a rope.

PLUS

· REFER TWO FRIENDS and receive a Nalgene Flask.

· REFER FOUR FRIENDS and receive a Nalgene Flask and a dri-release wool T-shirt from Outdoor Research.

· REFER SIX FRIENDS and receive a Nalgene Flask, a dri-release wool T-shirt from Outdoor Research, and a North Face merino wool beanie cap.

PLUS

The two top referrers will receive a bonus gift package worth over $150.

REFER your friends by sending them to this NEW link:

www.accessfund.org/AFfriend

· If they become a member, they are also entered into a contest to win a free rope.

· They must enter your name in the “Referred by” box on the join form in order for their membership to count towards your total tally.

· Awards will be sent on a monthly basis as your referrals accumulate.

· Program will reset January 1, 2007

· The Access Fund reserves the right to substitute any gift based on availability.

EVENTS

Make any event an Access Fund fundraiser and/or member drive. It’s so easy—register your event online and we’ll set you up with everything you need! http://www.accessfund.org/events/eventreg.php

Also, register your crag clean-ups as an Adopt-a-Crag to strengthen our communal efforts. Adopt-a-Crag is the largest climber volunteer effort year after year and land managers notice. Be a part of it! http://www.accessfund.org/cons/aac.php

**A big thanks to these recent Access Fund Fundraisers that went the extra mile bringing in tremendous money and members helping to keep your climbing areas open and conserve your climbing environment!

SBS Finals at The Spot

Sure, this is one of the Access Fund staff’s favorite local lunch time sesh spots but wow, The Spot in Boulder, CO not only put on an amazing comp, they had one of the most successful membership drives Boulder has seen in recent memory. Thanks to the whole crew especially Chris and Dan for making it all happen. See you today around noon!

Vertical Endeavors Does it Again

Seriously, these guys are always doing the AF proud and this year’s NO HOLDS BARRED competition at the Warrenville, IL Vertical Endeavors rose above all expectations. Climbers in the Midwest are serious about their support and passionate about making sure they have places to climb. Thanks Scott for making this all happen…again!

Vol Wall Crankin for Access

Well of course this is a big event for the Access Fund…it’s got access in its name! But just because it says it, doesn’t make it so. The hard work of Rocky Topper Brett Davis makes it so. A gigantic thanks to UT Rec and all those responsible for showing us the money and membership! Go Vols!

Central Texas Mountaineers

These guys are busy but they still find time to raise money and awareness for the AF as well as accomplish all the important work they do in central Texas. Big thanks for the proceeds from the Limestoner comp but bigger thanks for doing what you do in TX!

AF Ambassador, Mike Libecki

If you haven’t seen one of Mike’s shows, put it on your list of things to do before you die. He knows how to entertain and bring in the AF members and has been doing it for years now. Big thanks to Mike for always getting the AF word out there and helping to keep us all climbing.

Events Calendar

03/23—03/25 Red Rocks, Las Vegas, NV. Red Rock Rendezvous presented by Mountain Gear!

http://www.mountaingear.com/rr07/

03/24—03/24 Boulders Climbing Gym, Madison, WI. Boulders Brawl, 6PM

www.wisconsinoutdooraccess.org

04/11—04/11 Upper Limits Rock Climbing Gym, Bloomington, IL.

5th Crashpad Jamboree Bouldering Comp
www.upperlimits.com

04/13—04/14 Baylor University, Waco, TX. Baylor Outdoor Adventure Festival
www.baylor.edu/campusrec/oa/index.php?id=35909

04/21 Red River Gorge, KY. The Red River Reunion Trash Clean Up and Scavenger Contest hosted by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. Prizes in the evening at Miguel's Pizza., Bill Strachan, cpstatyk@pipeline.com

MEMBER BENEFITS

Get member only discounts on all the new stuff in the Access Fund MemberSHOP! www.accessfund.org/membershop

Men's T-shirts

100% Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Those old T-shirts you've been wearing have more perforations than Swiss cheese at City of Rocks. By purchasing our T, you can rebel against corporate dress codes and battle for climbers' rights at the same time. Artwork by Mike Tea. Sizes S, M (temporarily sold out), L, XL. $20 non members/$18 member price

Women's T-shirts

100% Organic Cotton prAna T-shirts. Designed for a comfortable fit and ideal for steep sport climbs, bold runouts or just hanging out. Artwork by Mike Tea. Sizes S, M, L. $20 non members/$18 member price

Pass It On!

www.accessfund.org/membershop

Higher Ground Coffee Access Fund Blend Ten Percent of proceeds fund preservation and maintenance of our climbing areas.

Did you know that Access Fund members receive free shipping on web orders from Mountain Gear? You must access the Mountain Gear site through the AF MemberSHOP after you login.

Buy a CLIF Bar Cool Tag Renewable wind energy credit keeps about 300 lbs of CO2 out of the air and helps the Rosebud Sioux Tribe build a wind farm in South Dakota

AF Extras

Cruise to the AF website and play ASANA PackWorks' video game Gunther's Big Day www.accessfund.com/extras/game.php Click through to ASANA's site to purchase the full version. $10 from each purchase made through this link will be donated to the AF. Go Gunther! Thanks ASANA!

Access Fund Ambassador Chris Sharma sending a first ascent in the boulderProject promo spot at www.accessfund.org/extras/promo.php

AF Ambassador Timmy O’Neil “takes care of business” in Indian Creek http://www.accessfund.org/extras/tic.php

Vertical Times 74 The February Issue is Now Online!

Please check out the February Issue of the Vertical Times at

www.accessfund.org/news/vt.php

Combined Federal Campaign

Are you a federal employee? Did you know you can donate to The Access Fund through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC)?

Federal employees, including federal civilians, military personnel, and U.S. Postal Service workers, can donate to AF through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC). The CFC is a charitable fundraising program where you give to the Access Fund through automatic payroll deductions.

If you are a federal employee, please look for the Access Fund (agency # 12047) in the official CFC listing of eligible donors. You can also make your contribution on-line by going to: www.conservenow.org, click on Search for a Charity, type in Access Fund and make your contribution there.

If you have additional questions on these programs please contact Whitney Self at: whitney@accessfund.org.