Imagine being camped out at your favorite desert climbing destination. Now picture yourself looking over the darkened mesas at the blinking lights of drilling rigs instead of the universe above. This may soon be a reality as there are over 32,000 new uranium claims within a stone’s throw of legendary climbing venues such as Indian Creek, Paradox Valley and Canyonlands National Park.

Fueled by record-high metal prices, an additional 57,000 new claims have been staked throughout the mountains of the West. As climbers, we all need metal. Responsible hardrock mining remains an important activity. The problem is that 19th century values and policies still govern 21st century high tech mining practices. The laws adopted in 1872 to govern prospecting with a pick and shovel, and to help settle the West before the invention of the light bulb, are the same laws in use today. These outdated laws have no regard for modern day outdoor values or the economic and environmental future of the West.

Late last year, the U.S. House of Representatives passed a bill to reform our nation’s policy on hardrock mining. Right now the U.S. Senate is considering reform as well.

Please take action and let your Senators know what you think.

Follow this link:

http://capwiz.com/outdooralliance/issues/alert/?alertid=10949226&PROCESS=Take+Action to conveniently generate a unique letter that you can email directly to both of your Senators.

Looking for more information or motivation to write? The Access Fund, as a founding member of the Outdoor Alliance, recently premiered an excellent six and half-minute video that reminds us what is at stake and inspires us to take action.

http://www.youtube.com/user/outdooralliance

Survey: Do You Support Recreation Fees on Federal Public Land?

The Access Fund wants to know what you think about the often controversial issue of recreational use fees. Please take a few minutes to fill out the following survey. Your answers will help us accurately represent your interests at the federal level. Click here: http://www.surveymonkey.com/s.aspx?sm=jZnQJhSckskvnScxK0SPeA_3d_3d.

The Access Fund has long represented the voice of climbers in debates over access fees to recreate on federal public land. Over the years we've advocated for the interests of the climbing community when Congress has considered legislation that would impose fees on climbers. First, there was authority under the Land and Water Conservation Act and then, the controversial Fee Demo Program. A few years ago Congress passed the Federal Lands Recreational Enhancement Act—also known as the Recreation Access Tax (or RAT)—and now a bill has been introduced into Congress that would repeal all fee collection authority: the Fee Repeal and Expanded Access Act of 2007 (see http://crapo.senate.gov/media/newsreleases/release_full.cfm?id=288666).

The Access Fund supports use fees on public lands in many situations, such as where services are provided or agency budgets are substantially burdened by recreational access. However, the Access Fund opposes charging recreational use fees for access to wilderness areas and other backcountry sites where administrative support is neither required nor desired by recreationists and where recreational impacts do not significantly impose on agency budgets or degrade the environment. In other words, there should be no "pay-to-play" where "playing" costs the agencies nothing. The Access Fund also opposes such fees when inequitably applied to climbers and other wilderness and backcountry users.

AREA UPDATES

Clarification of Rules Affecting Climbing and Slack Lines in Yosemite National Park, CA

National Parks are regulated by laws published in the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR). Each park also has a Superintendent’s Compendium that acts as a supplement to the CFR. For example, Yosemite’s Compendium includes rules controlling everything from wilderness protection and fires to campground rules as well as climbing route closures that protect cliff-nesting raptors. Each park updates its compendium regularly, and recently Yosemite National Park issued an update clarifying its rules governing climbing anchors and ropes as well as slack lines.

Yosemite’s new compendium relaxes the previous rule requiring climbers to obtain wilderness permits for bivouacs on Yosemite’s walls. Additionally, the new compendium specifically addresses climbing gear left on walls and slack lines left in campsites.

The new compendium is now available at http://www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/lawsandpolicies.htm.

Direct link: http://www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/loader.cfm?url=/commonspot/security/getfile.cfm&PageID=193143 (821 kb PDF)

See page 5 and 6 for anchor and rope updates

See page 6 and 7 for slack line updates

For more information contact Yosemite National Park by phone (209)-372-0200 or by mail: Superintendent’s Compendium PO Box 577 Yosemite, CA 95389.

North Cascades National Park Agrees to Allow New Climbing Routes in the Skagit River Gorge, WA

Since 2003, the Access Fund has worked with climbing activists in Washington State to respond to concerns of the North Cascades National Park regarding climbing and bouldering impacts in the Skagit River Gorge near Newhalem, Washington. These areas host high quality sport climbing and extensive bouldering http://www.misha.org/Climbing/Newhalem/Map1.html. Unfortunately, much of the bouldering requires extensive cleaning of moss and lichen.

In 2003 climbers and park officials agreed to a moratorium on the development of new climbing routes and bouldering problems pending the establishment of a climbing management plan (CMP). The CMP could authorize new route development after environmental and cultural resource surveys are completed. Since 2003, climbers have fulfilled their end of the bargain, but the National Park Service was unable, for a variety of reasons, to complete a new CMP that allowed new route development. For more background, see http://accessfund.org/pdf/RossLake-NRA_12-03.pdf.

In September 2007, climbers met with North Cascades National Park’s new Superintendent and Chief Ranger to discuss the ongoing new route ban. The parties agreed to a compromise that would allow new climbing routes on cliffs that already experienced climbing traffic prior to 2003, while the balance of the Skagit River Gorge could be reopened following the completion of an ongoing general management planning process for the Ross Lake National Recreation Area.

This climbing access success is a result of the dogged activism of the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) and the National Park Service’s flexibility towards balancing recreation and resource protection.

For more information on what’s open and what’s not, stay tuned to the WCC website: http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Climbing/.

Access Update, NC

By Anthony Love, President, Carolina Climbers Coalition

In October 2007, the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) held its annual Fall meeting during the 15^th annual Hound Ears Bouldering Competition. Elections for new officers were held, and the new group set out to conquer the tasks remaining from the last year and to seek new opportunities for the new year.

During the weekend following the Hound Ears leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Competition, the CCC officially opened the Asheboro boulderfield. The Asheboro Boulders, located in Randolf County, NC had been closed to the climbing community until 2007. In 2003, Mike Dean negotiated an agreement with the landowner to allow the CCC to lease the land. The deal came to fruition in 2007 after a lengthy property dispute and the installation of a new road to the property. The terms of the lease offer climbing access to current or new members of the CCC. To climb at the Asheboro Boulders, please renew or become a member of the CCC. www.carolinaclimbers.org

Laurel Knob has been open to the public now for a little over two years. To date, all the established routes (save one) have been rebolted. As part of the land management plan for the area, the CCC asked climbers to complete an application process to put up new routes. Currently, two routes have been established and 6 more are in the works. The CCC greatly appreciates the efforts of all who have applied and taken part in this process.

Two rescue situations have provided the opportunity to strengthen the capabilities of the Cashiers Volunteer Rescue Squad, as well as install better trail marking for the trail system. Since climbing at Laurel Knob is such a rich experience (read: strenuous hike, big imposing routes over some spicy terrain), the CCC will be hosting an event at “the Knob” called Get in the Groove to help acclimatize folks to the trail, the cliff and its routes. Come climbing February 23 & 24 and get in the groove!

The CCC greatly appreciates all who gave comments regarding alternative plans for the Developed Area Management Plan for the Moses Cone Memorial Park (which includes the Blowing Rock Boulderfield). The National Park Service is in the process of refining their alternatives. Visit http://parkplanning.nps.gov/projectHome.cfm?parkID=355&projectId=10347 to keep up with news of the project.

Lastly, the CCC will hold their annual spring meeting at Stone Mountain, NC at 5:00pm on March 15^th. Please join the fun!

Visit the CCC online at: www.carolinaclimbers.org to:

renew your membership or join
find out more information on the Get in the Groove Event
receive additional information on what’s happening in the Carolina climbing community

LAC Final Meeting Scheduled, Red River Gorge, KY

By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition

On Tuesday February 19, 2008 the Limits of Acceptable Change (LAC) process for Red River Gorge will wrap up in one final review meeting at the Daniel Boone National Forest Supervisor’s Office in Winchester, Kentucky. The last two LAC meetings held in January 2008 have focused on potential management actions if recreational impacts exceed LAC standards. In relation to climbing, 245 “climbsites” in Red River Gorge have been found to have measurable impacts but only 25 of theses sites exceed LAC standards. A “climbsite” is a staging area at the base of one or more climbing routes. Proposed management actions to mitigate impacts above standards include trail relocation, climbsite modifications using native materials to reduce size and erosion, and site hardening using non-native materials. Additional management actions in support of the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition’s goal to improve all climbsites include signage, education efforts, and evaluation of ways to reduce impacts even where LAC standards are not exceeded.

Undoubtedly the results of the Red River Gorge LAC process are precedent setting and not just for climbing. Throughout the process climbers have worked hard to make sure that LAC efforts to limit impacts do not at the same time limit climbing. The final results of LAC are expected to lead to a Climbing Management Plan that will provide procedures and guidelines for new routes and areas to be developed. This outcome would not have been possible without the dedicated efforts of the climbers involved in almost monthly meetings over the last three years: Dwight Bradburn, RRGCC Treasurer; Shannon Stuart-Smith; past RRGCC Executive Director and Board Member; Jim Holzman, past RRGCC Board Member; Chris Carr, Recreational Ecologist; and Rita Wehner, USFS Backcountry Ranger.

SCC Update, GA, AL, TN

Paul Morley, Board Member, Southeastern Climbers Coalition

During the past couple of months, the Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC) held several comps and trail days in areas such as Boat Rock, GA (newly purchased by the SCC), Jamestown, AL (owned by the SCC), Castle Rock, TN (leased by the SCC), and Sunset Rock, TN.

During the annual "Float the Boat" competition, several climbers participated in a pre-comp Adopt-a-Crag cleanup and later pulled down on slabs of Georgia Granite. New access was gained to the Jamestown cliff line where climbers and volunteers spent the day clearing a new road and parking area for the new trail. Castlerock, a recent lease by the SCC, was also a hotspot for trail work as several bags of trash were carried out from the area, and some anchors were replaced. During November, climbers and volunteers worked to preserve the trails around Sunset Rock, one of Tennessee's finest areas.

Over the past few months, trail work has been extensive and work hours have been long, but it is a small price to pay for knowing that a crag is OPEN. The SCC is looking forward to the next few months as many more trail days and competitions will be held, and with any luck, new areas will be opened.

AF NEWS

Mountain Gear Presents: Red Rock Rendezvous Announces 2008 Clinic Guides

The fifth annual Mountain Gear Presents: Red Rock Rendezvous rock climbing festival announced its initial line-up of expert climbing guides to lead the event’s scheduled clinics. Clinic guides include internationally renowned athletes such as: Majka Burhardt, Tommy Caldwell, Olivai Cussen, Malcolm Daly, Mica Dash, Brittany Griffith, Arno Ilgner, Dean Lords, Dale Remsberg, Beth Rodden, Matt Segal, Pablo Stein and Don Welsh.

“This is an incredible opportunity for Red Rock Rendezvous participants to meet and work with these kind of world-class climbers,” said Paul Fish, president of Mountain Gear. The quality of instruction received by participants every year is what makes this event unique and keeps climbers coming back.

Presented by Mountain Gear and sponsored by The North Face, the festival will return to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area near Las Vegas on March 28-30 benefiting the Access Fund and other local and national non-profit organizations including the American Safe Climbing Association, the American Alpine Club, Friends of Red Rocks and the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council.

The festival will offer clinics for advanced, intermediate and beginning climbers on Saturday and Sunday. Registration is $89 per person for the Saturday and Sunday events, and $179 per person for the Friday Intro day and Saturday and Sunday clinic combo. Registration includes the Friday night opening celebration, free climbing at Red Rock Canyon when not in formal clinics, a dinner buffet on Saturday night, demos, comps and mini-seminars by event sponsors, a blow-out party and slide show on Saturday night, pancake breakfast Sunday morning and service projects to assist in the environmental conservation of the Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain. For only $39, participants can receive access to all of the festivities without the climbing. All of the festival activities outside of the climbing clinics will take place at Spring Mountain Ranch State Park located approximately 10 minutes from the entrance to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

For the first time at Red Rock Rendezvous, UClimb will join the festival and host the event’s Intro day on Friday, March 28. UClimb is an organization designed to teach all ages how to rock climb in a comfortable small-group setting with other amateur climbers. At the conclusion of UClimb’s Intro day, participants can enjoy two additional half-day clinics during the weekend as part of Mountain Gear Presents: Red Rock Rendezvous. The event will offer an optional gear package for new beginners that includes a harness, helmet, shoes, belay device, carabineer, chalk bag and membership to the Access Fund. Participants can purchase the gear package, the Friday Intro day, two additional half-day clinics and event festivities for $349.

For more information and to register, call 800.829.2009 or visit www.mgear.com/rrr.

EVENTS

Make any event an Access Fund fundraiser and/or member drive. It’s so easy—register your event online and we’ll set you up with the membership materials you need and the swag to get people excited. www.accessfund.org/events/eventreg.php

Events Calendar

02/15—02/16 Texas Tech University - Outdoor Pursuits Center, Lubbock, TX. Vertical Plains Adventure Festival
www.depts.ttu.edu/recsports/outdoor/verticalplains.php

02/15—02/18 Cody, WY. 10th Annual "Waterfall Ice" Festival
www.southforkice.com

02/16—02/16 James Madison University, Harrisonburg, VA. Reach Out Climb
www.jmu.edu/recreation/Programs/Adventure/ROC.html

02/16—02/16 Arcadia Rock Climbing (ARC) Gym, Arcadia, CA. The Gun Show
www.arcadiarockclimbing.com/

02/23—02/23 UW campus recreation building, Seattle, WA. Rain City Send
www.depts.washington.edu/ima/IMA_icc.php

02/29—03/01 University of Tennessee HYPER building, Knoxville, TN. Vol Wall Crankin for Access Comp

03/01—03/01 Vertical Endeavors, Warrenville, IL. No Holds Barred Climbing Competition
www.verticalendeavors.com

03/06—03/06 University of Wisconsin, Madison, WI. Kashmir Alpine Style Multi Media Show, Presented by Micah Dash

03/08—03/08 41 Sports & Fitness Center, Menomonie, WI. RockFest! Reel Rock Film Tour
urec.uwstout.edu/adventures/rockfest.html

03/12—03/12 Colorado Mountain College, Leadville, CO. Kashmir Alpine Style Multi Media Show, Presented by Micah Dash

03/13—03/13 Fort Lewis College, Durango, CO. Kashmir Alpine Style Multi Media Show, Presented by Micah Dash

03/28—03/30 Red Rocks, NV. Red Rock Rendezvous
www.mountaingear.com/RedRock/index.aspx

Adopt-a-Crag Events Calendar

Please register your crag clean-ups as an Adopt-a-Crag to strengthen our communal efforts. Adopt-a-Crag is the largest climber volunteer effort year after year and land managers notice. Be a part of it! www.accessfund.org/cons/aac.php

03/15 Elephant Rocks State Park, MO. The E-Rocks Clean Up, an Adopt-a-Crag event hosted by Upper Limits Climbing Gym, REI St. Louis, Dynamic Earth, So-Ill Climbing Holds, and the Missouri Dept. of Natural Resources. For details go to www.upperlimits.com, Aaron Reynolds, stlstaff@upperlimits.com

MEMBER BENEFITS

Get member-only discounts on all the new stuff in the Access Fund MemberSHOP! www.accessfund.org/membershop

Free Membership at eConscious Market

eConscious Market is the Internet's largest philanthropic eco marketplace featuring eco-products for your home and office, work and play. Every time you shop, you give too. 50% of net profits from your purchase will be donated to the Access Fund!

For a free eConscious membership:
Go to: www.econsciousmarket.com/site/Become-A-Member
enter: accessfund (no spaces all lowercase) as your promo code
enter email and password and verify password
select Free (PROMO CODE REQUIRED - includes member only discounts)

Access Fund TNF Beanies

The perfect block heater for long ice-routes, crisp bouldering sessions, or a bad hair day. 100% Merino wool. A soft fleece lining adds a little extra protection from the elements. Tastefully co-branded with the Access Fund and The North Face logos. One Size. $15 non-member / $13.50 member. NOW IN STOCK!

AF Extras

Cruise to the AF website and play ASANA PackWorks' video game Gunther's Big Day (www.accessfund.com/extras/game.php). Click through to ASANA's site to purchase the full version. Ten dollars from each purchase made through this link will be donated to the AF. Go, Gunther! Thanks, ASANA!

AF Ambassador Timmy O’Neil “takes care of business” in Indian Creek www.accessfund.org/extras/tic.php

AF Ambassador Chris Sharma sending a first ascent in the boulderProject promo spot at www.accessfund.org/extras/promo.php

Combined Federal Campaign

Are you a federal employee? Did you know that you can donate to the Access Fund through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign (CFC)?

Federal employees, including federal civilians, military personnel, and U.S. Postal Service workers, can donate to AF through the federal government's Combined Federal Campaign. The CFC is a charitable fundraising program that enables you to give to the Access Fund through automatic payroll deductions.

If you are a federal employee, please look for the Access Fund (agency # 12047) in the official CFC listing of eligible donors. You can also make your contribution online by going to (www.conservenow.org), clicking on “Search for a Charity,” typing in “Access Fund,” and making your contribution there.

If you have additional questions on these programs, please contact Ellen Jardine at ellen@accessfund.org.