Massachusetts Breaking News
Climbers Paradise for Sale, Farley, MA Update (09/13/2007)
By Jeff Squire, President, Western Mass Climbers Coalition
How would you like to have over a hundred high quality climbs and boulder problems just out your backdoor? The Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition (WMCC) is hard at work selling a house and two acres of land near the base of Farley Ledge in Erving, MA.
The property for sale was part of a larger purchase that has allowed the WMCC to restrict development at the base of the crag and to resolve the historically troublesome access issues to this area’s excellent climbing and hiking options. The Access Fund supplied guidance and inspiration via an Acquisition Summit workshop and came through with a significant grant. Additional funding was provided by The Appalachian Mountain Club and local climbers.
Farley Ledge is often billed as the best crag between the Gunks and Rumney. It is home to five-star trad climbing, sport climbing, ice climbing, bouldering, top roping and even multi-pitch climbing. Also, the nationally recognized Metacomet-Monadnock Trail runs near the cliff base. Located only 15 min from Greenfield, 30 min from the college towns of Amherst & Northampton and 1.5 hours from downtown Boston, Farley is a primary rock climbing destination in southern New England.
The house is a well cared for and maintained 1,650 sq. ft. Cape built in 1976. It has 4 bedrooms, 2 baths, attached porch and 1 car garage. For more information visit: www.westernmass.craigslist.org/rfs/380901940.html or www.westernmacc.com. Better yet come to Farley and check out the house and the climbing.
Update - Farley Ledge, MA (05/15/2007)
By Rob Sullivan, Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition
The Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition (WMCC), an Access Fund Affiliate closed on a nine-acre parcel of land abutting Farley Ledge. Ownership of this parcel provides permanent public access while saving a precious natural resource from certain development.
Farley Ledge represents a unique and unspoiled natural outdoor recreation area in Erving, Massachusetts. Farley is a primary rock-climbing destination in New England, and includes one of the most impressive sections of the nationally recognized Metacomet-Monadnock Trail. Farley is home to five-star trad climbing, sport climbing, ice climbing, bouldering and top roping. Only 1.5 hours from downtown Boston, the crag features superb rock quality—comparable to English grit in its best moments—and offers the only true multi-pitch experience in MA.
Farley—often billed as the best crag between the ‘Gunks and Rumney—is virtually unknown. Its mythical status can be attributed largely to its unstable access. While the crag itself is owned by a utility that must encourage recreation, current parking is located at a small, privately owned eight-car lot, and trail access lies across a patchwork of additional private land parcels. Access is constantly threatened by the disparate voices of land abutters. The WMCC have worked closely to soothe these neighbors. Even so, the trailhead has been moved several times and the crag itself has been closed four times in the last twenty years.
This purchase ends all that uncertainty. Construction of a new trailhead and parking lot—the easiest part of this whole process—should be finished in time for the fall season. Perhaps most encouraging of all is the fact that this success story represents the efforts of a large, organized and motivated community on the local, regional and national level. Locals sniffed out, carried and closed the deal; the Appalachian Mountain Club offered substantial funds at a critical juncture; the Access Fund provided a significant grant as well as invaluable guidance and support (the land purchase is a direct result of AF’s Acquisition Summit held last year).
So we all deserve a pat on the back and tour come fall.
Farley Ledge, MA (04/19/2007)
Cash for a Closing – Peregrines Return - Vandalized Again
The WMCC is approaching a milestone event in its efforts to secure permanent access to some of the finest climbing and bouldering in southern New England. Soon representatives of the WMCC will attend a property closing with sufficient financial resources in hand to acquire a 9-acre parcel of property adjacent to the base of Farley Ledge in Erving, MA. The purchase of the property will allow the WMCC to restrict development at the base of the crag, establish a new parking area and provide unfettered access to the excellent climbing and hiking options.
To date the WMCC has raised over $55,000. The donations have come from a variety of sources including local climbers and businesses as well as regional and national organizations. A special thanks goes out to the Access Fund who provided a substantial grant and to the AMC for critical support to meet financial requirements at the closing.
The fundraising continues. The WMCC needs money to build the parking area and repay loans. Your help is needed now. There are currently five different challenge grants we are working on. For more information or to make a donation visit our website at www.westernmacc.com.
In other news, Peregrine Falcons made a late appearance this season. A pair of birds was discovered in early April on the Yellow Wall area. Local climbers are respecting the closure of this area until further notice. The WMCC asks all visiting climbers to do the same.
Lastly, in what has become an unfortunate seasonal event over 50 bolts plus an additional 15 anchor bolts were found vandalized at Farley Ledge during the week of April 1. All hardware was either stolen or hammered useless damaging 6 established routes. The action was taken at night or on a wet/cold weather day. No individual(s) has taken responsibility. If anyone has any information on the individual(s) that committed this act please contact the WMCC at mail@westernmacc.com.
Farley Ledge, MA (03/12/2007)
By Jeff Squire, Access Fund Regional Coordinator and President, WMCC
Since the early December, the Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition has been actively raising money to secure a 9-acre parcel of land at the base of Farley Ledge. Farley Ledge represents a unique and unspoiled natural outdoor recreation area in Erving, Massachusetts and represents a primary rock-climbing destination in New England. The area also includes one of the most impressive sections of the nationally recognized Metacomet-Monadnock Trail and valuable state identified wildlife habitat.
This preservation project marks the climax of a six year effort on behalf of the WMCC to secure access to Farley Ledge. A Purchase and Sale Agreement has been signed for the property and the WMCC fully intends on moving ahead.
The local community has rallied to donate over $22,000 to this project so far and we have gained the support of local towns, land trusts, state agencies, and area officials. A closing date is scheduled for April 1st and we desperately need to close the gap to secure this important piece of property.
Fundraisers planned for upcoming months include area visits from Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell (March 2-4), Nick and Heather Sagar (March 2-4) and John Bragg (April 7).
This is a project that will significantly affect climbing in Massachusetts and southern New England and it needs everyone’s support. Donations are being accepted through the WMCC website www.westernmacc.com or the old fashioned way. Above all else, help spread the word about this effort so that we might capture the attention of those willing to help.
Farley Ledge, MA (01/11/2007)
By Jeff Squire, Access Fund Regional Coordinator & President WMCC
The Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition has signed a Purchase & Sale Agreement for 9-acres of land at the base of Farley Ledge. Located in Erving, MA, Farley Ledge represents some of the best climbing and bouldering in southern New England between Rumney and the Gunks.
This purchase will allow the WMCC to restrict non-climbing related development at the base of the crag and construct a sustainable and permanent parking area. The new parking area and trailhead will replace the existing small lot now located at the end of a busy residential neighborhood.
The WMCC’s acquisition of this property is closely aligned with state protection efforts as the entire Farley Ledge area is designated as Core Habitat Area according to MA Wildlife. Additionally, the town’s Open Space & Recreation Plan identifies Farley not only as a valuable habitat area, but also as an important outdoor recreational resource. Farley’s unspoiled setting, its link to a multi-state trail system, and its climbing potential help make this project the epitome of land preservation.
The closing date is scheduled for May 1st by which we need to raise an additional $45,000 to finalize the deal. Several fundraisers are planned for the upcoming months including a Silent Auction, our annual Winter Thaw, and a visit from Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell in early March. While the local community has been motivated to make this happen raising over $16,000 over the last 2 months, we still need everyone’s help. For more information, to donate or to arrange a tour of some damn good rock, check our website www.westernmacc.com
Farley Ledge, MA (11/14/2006)
By Jeff Squire, Regional Coordinator and President Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition
The Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition is in the early stages of acquiring a 9-acre property abutting Farley Ledge, arguably the best piece of rock between Rumney and the Gunks. The purchase would be for the creation of a permanent parking lot, approach trail, protection of natural buffers, and to prevent potential development close to the cliffs.
Farley Ledge is largely owned by Northeast Utilities, but their site license contains a recreational stipulation requiring that they provide recreational opportunities. As a result, access issues have always been over the parking and approach trails.
Farley has already been closed four times due to growing crowds and abutting landowner concerns. The WMCC’s goal is to put an end to this cycle permanently through the acquisition of this property. The goal is to raise $75,000 by spring when the current landowner would like to close.
We will need everyone’s support for this project. This is likely the best thing to happen for western Mass climbing. Visit our website to learn more or to donate www.westernmacc.com. It would be a shame to loose this opportunity and be faced with new homes less than 100’ from the cliff!