New York Breaking News
Gunks Climbers Sign MOU with Mohonk Preserve (08/15/2007)
By Christopher Spatz, Access Fund Regional Coordinator
On August 13, following more than two years of presentations, meetings, and negotiations (with tons of assistance from the AF), the Gunks Climber’s Coalition (GCC) and Mohonk Preserve signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) for the Rosendale Waterworks bouldering parcel.
The signing marks a significant step though several remain before access to the parcel can be realized. Jeff Powell, one of two boulderers who discovered the site, has volunteered for the Waterworks’ liaison position outlined in the MOU.
The GCC is also pleased to announce that our Adopt-A-Crag date this year will take place on Saturday, September 15, with a litter clean-up at Skytop. The historic crag saw a partial reopening this year by the Mohonk Mountain House to guided climbing of hotel guests.
Peter's Kill Season Pass, NY (04/19/2007)
By Christopher Spatz
In response to a Peter’s Kill climbing survey at Minnewaska State Park Preserve conducted by GCC Director-at-Large Bob O’Brien (Minnewaska’s Invasive Species Specialist), the park has recognized requests by frequent visitors of the climbing community for a season pass.
Eric Humphries, Minnewaska’s new Superintendent, has issued the 2007 policy as follows: The Peter’s Kill Season Pass is $65 per individual and is valid for climbing/bouldering. The pass is valid from April 1st to December 15th, weather permitting. The Peter’s Kill Season Pass does not waive vehicle use fees at the other park entrances, and is valid only at the Peter’s Kill Area. Pass holder must present valid photo ID at check in. The Season Pass is Not Transferable and Non-Refundable. Pass Holder Must follow all park rules and regulations. Pass Holder will only be allowed entry if the climbing area has not reached the maximum number of permitted climbing/bouldering permits. The weekday/weekend day climbing pass remains $7.
For further information please contact the Minnewaska Park Preserve Office at 845-255-0752.
New also to this year’s Peter’s Kill climbing policy: climbers will be requested to check-out upon departure. Previously, once the maximum number of climbing visitors was reached, no further passes were issued. Check-out monitoring will allow the Peter’s Kill office to sustain the maximum number of climbing visitors during peak usage: 70 climbers and 30 boulderers.
The GCC wishes to thank Bob O’Brien, Superintendent Humphries, and the Palisades Interstate Park Commission for accommodating the climbing community’s request for a season pass at Peter’s Kill.
Guided Climbing Approved at Sky Top, NY (03/12/2007)
By Christopher Spatz, Gunks Climbers’ Coalition and Access Fund RC
Starting April 1, 2007, overnight guests of the Mohonk Mountain House will have the opportunity to climb at Sky Top with an approved guide. Guiding costs are in addition to hotel accommodations. Unescorted guests, day guests, and the public are not permitted to rock climb at Sky Top at this time.
This agreement is the result of several years of negotiations between former Access Fund Board member Russ Clune, Access Fund Community Partner Alpine Endeavors www.alpineendeavors.com and the Mohonk Mountain House www.mohonk.com. The facts sheet on their arrangement is also available on the GCC’s website: www.gunksclimbers.org and at www.mohonkmountainguides.com
Sky Top has been closed to climbers since the mid 1990s. Historically, it is one of the most significant crags on the continent. Sky Top’s sublime setting is home to one of the earliest routes in the Shawangunks, Fritz Weissner’s 1935 Gargoyle, moderate classics like Grey Face, Pilgrim’s Progress, and Sound & Fury, as well as Trad testpieces that advanced North American rock climbing standards, Foops and Supercrack.
Gunks Climbers’ Coalition Update, NY (11/14/2006)
By Christopher Spatz, Access Fund Regional Coordinator and GCC Board Member
It was a busy October for the Gunks Climbers’ Coalition. The month kicked off on October 7th with a benefit slideshow organized by Rock & Snow featuring Jason Kehl. Jason’s eye-popping phantasms raised $1006 (and five Euros!) for the GCC’s Waterworks Bouldering Project.
On October 14, the GCC did its publicity bit for the New Paltz Climbing Film Festival by hosting a bagel breakfast at the Trapps’ Steel Bridge. Proceeds went to the Mohonk Preserve’s dedicated Rescue Fund.
Our big day of the season, October 21, drew 25 volunteers together with the GCC Board of Directors for Adopt-a-Crag trail maintenance and micro-trash removal at Minnewaska State Park’s Peterskill Area. A late, potluck lunch followed the clean-up, where everyone grab-bagged for booty donated by Rock & Snow and the Access Fund in appreciation for their efforts.
In the evening, the GCC BOD convened to adopt new bylaws, before hosting a slideshow by renowned training expert and author, Eric Horst. The training overview for climbing was highlighted with pics from the Gunks to Thailand. A raffle followed the show. Eric generously donated his fee, raising another $300 for the GCC.
As the season closes, GCC Director-at-Large Bob O’Brian is gleaning data from the GCC’s ten-year follow-up study accessing climbing impact at Peterskill. Following the protocols used in the initial study that opened Peterskill in 1996, Bob is comparing surveys on everything from a small mammal census to trail erosion and vegetation disturbance on the cliffs. The results from the hundreds of volunteer hours that went into the study will be used to review mitigation measures at the crag and for consideration in expanding climbing opportunities at Minnewaska.
Finally, the GCC and the Mohonk Preserve are together drafting a Memorandum of Agreement outlined by the Access Fund as the Waterworks Bouldering Project moves into its primary fundraising phase.
Many thanks go out to the town of Rosendale, to the Mohonk Preserve and Minnewaska State Park, to the Access Fund, American Alpine Club, Rock & Snow, Big Up Productions, Urban Climber, and Cilogear, to those who gave generously at the fundraisers, and especially to the individuals who sacrificed time on the horizontals volunteering this year with the GCC.
AdkMCo- The Adirondack Mountaineering Coalition (10/12/2006)
By Jesse Williams
The fall meeting of the Adirondack Mountaineering Coalition is this Saturday, October 14th.
First on the agenda—and a hopeful predictor of future beneficial collaborations with the NY State Dept. of Environmental Conservation—is a review of the peregrine nesting closures from last season. Two factors contributed to a smoother and more effective process: 1) an increase in (trained) volunteer observations at popular cliffs, and 2) consultation with Coalition representatives on the technical delineation of route closures.
Effective and timely management of closures is contingent upon positive identification of nests. In an effort to facilitate the efficacy of theses closures, a handful of members of the AdkMCo participated in a volunteer observer training offered by the NY state DEC's Wildlife Division. In the spring, Coalition members assisted volunteers and seasonal wildlife staff in the recognition of nesting activities at popular climbing cliffs. The training and observation sessions were also excellent opportunities for climbers and birders to meet and establish a rapport. Positive relationships with birders proved beneficial as in several locations nests were (in an unusual season) abandoned and relocated mid-season. Observations from volunteer birders were truly instrumental in the corresponding opening and closing of climbing areas affected by the changes.
The second key factor in the effective management of the closures was the willingness of local Wildlife officials to sit down with Coalition representatives and discuss the actual technical delineations of specific closures. Rather than relying on an outright closure of ALL climbing routes, Coalition representatives provided insight on the actual terrain features, lines-of-sight, primary descent routes and proximity to popular 'classic' routes. It should be noted that at some cliffs—like the expansive wall at Poke-O-Moonshine—this adaptive process yielded much more open climbing terrain than in the prior year and accommodated spaces for both peregrines and climbers. At the same time, Coalition representatives acknowledged that the terrain at other cliffs such as the Washbowl Cliff at Chapel Pond simply did not allow for climbing without the potential for disturbance near or above nests and Coalition representatives agreed that the cliff should remain closed to climbing until after successful fledging (or in the worst case, nest failure).
In the future, the AdkMtCo looks forward to working with NYS DEC Wildlife to continue and refine this collaborative process of adaptive management throughout the season. Coalition members benefit from the involvement and consultation in managing the closures and have demonstrated a willingness to provide a balance between protecting habitat for New York's peregrine population and allowing access to our favorite climbing areas.
At this weekend's meeting we hope to hear the final numbers on the peregrines' reproductive success this season, and we hope the process proves to be equally beneficial for the peregrines.
Rosendale (08/01/2005)
Negotiations Under Way for New Bouldering Area, Rosendale, NY. Climbers Advise to Comply with No Trespassing Request. On June 6th, following several months of private discussions with Rosendale town officials, the Gunks Climbers' Coalition made its first public presentation to the town board to explore permitting legal access to the Water Works bouldering area. The parcel, discovered by boulderers last year, exists on Rosendale Water District property, where a no trespassing ordinance exists. The site is significant enough that growing publicity and usage of the area had attracted complaints by neighbors, warranting an access strategy developed by boulderers with the Access Fund and the GCC beginning in February; climbers immediately agreed to cease all climbing activity at the site. While the initial presentation generated its share of discussion and concerns from board members- liability and trespassing being the chief concerns - the board was interested enough to advise that the GCC present to the town's Water District board, which the GCC did on Monday, June 27th. Negotiations between the GCC, the Rosendale town officials and the water department are continuing and are expected to continue at least until this Fall or the end of the year. Until some sort of agreement is in place climbers are advised to respect the no trespassing ordinance that has been in effect, and avoid going to this area. For more information g