Texas Breaking News
Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition Formed (04/15/2008)
On March 29, the Access Fund’s Grassroots Coordinator, Charlie Boas, met with El Paso locals and visiting climbers to form/reform a local climbing organization.
Prompted by the recent closure of the Mushroom Boulder, the new Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition (CHTC) met to discuss the history and future of Hueco Tanks climbers groups with long-time local Dave Head and Hueco Rock Ranch Managers Rob Rice and Charles Kelly.
After some fantastic homemade burritos and a few cervezas, the new coalition has decided on a name, selected a Board of Directors, and scheduled a second meeting for early May.
At the next meeting the CHTC will be deciding on a mission statement and planning for an upcoming fundraiser scheduled for September 2008.
For more information, please contact Charlie Boas at charlie@accessfund.org.
Texas' Hueco Tanks and Enchanted Rock Receive Increased Funding (06/18/2007)
By Jamie McNally, Central TX Mountaineers
Thanks to a concerted effort by a wide variety of organizations including the Access Fund, the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (which manages Hueco Tanks State Park and Enchanted Rock State Natural Area) will now enjoy $180 million in new funding. These increased state-level appropriations will benefit climbers by improving the management of resource protection and recreational access at these parks which had been critically under funded for years.
Also significant for climbers, the recently enacted legislation provides for the transfer of 18 historic sites from Parks Department jurisdiction over to the Texas Historical Commission who could ultimately impose more restrictive policies on recreation such as climbing. Although Hueco Tanks was not included in the list of historic sites transferred, the legislation provides for an interim legislative committee to study issues surrounding historic site transfers and the study's conclusions could have implications for possible future transfers.
On June 14 a number of Texas conservation organizations, including the Trust for Public Land, The Texas Coalition for Conservation, the Nature Conservancy of Texas and others met in Austin to celebrate recent legislative accomplishments and to award the First Annual Land and People Award to George Bristol, Executive Director of the Texas Coalition for Conservation for his leadership efforts in helping to obtain additional funding for state parks.
CLOSED—Paradise on the Brazos, TX (05/15/2007)
The property owner of Paradise on the Brazos in Graham, Texas officially closed the area to climbing. He is still operating his normal business, but shut down climbing as of May 13. As always, the climbing community is asked to respect the wishes of the property owner.
Hueco Trip Report, TX (04/19/2007)
By Kristo Torgersen
In February 2007, the Access Fund traveled to Hueco Tanks for the annual Hueco Rock Rodeo to advocate the Access Fund’s position and strategy and meet with park staff regarding the current status of access and potential threats to climbing at Hueco Tanks.
News of a potential transfer of Hueco Tanks from the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD) to the Texas Historical Commission (THC) surfaced in December 2006. In early February a letter from THC to the Access Fund stated that “Hueco Tanks had been removed from the list for transfer”. However, as the premiere cultural resource in the state, it is possible that this issue will resurface.
Additionally, there is a bill up for approval in the Texas Legislature which would provide a much needed increase of funding for Texas’ state and local parks (including Reimer’s Ranch).
During the visit to Hueco Tanks, the Access Fund met with Hueco Tanks Park Superintendent and Complex Manger to discuss strategy in support of TPWD’s management and offer the resources of the Access Fund to achieve the common interests of the park and climbers. The Access Fund circulated a petition at the Hueco Rock Rodeo to educate climbers on the issue and gain signatures from Texan residents supporting the management of Hueco by TPWD and the allocation of additional funding to Texas State Parks.
During the third week of March the Access Fund was back in Texas to conduct an Austin-based lobbying initiative that included Texas climbers and other allied interest groups in meeting with Texas legislators and public land agency officials to preserve the financial security of Texas State Parks and Hueco Tanks in particular.
Improve the Future of Climbing at Hueco Tanks ACT NOW! (02/14/2007)
Texas State Parks are in a vulnerable position resulting from inadequate and declining state funding over the last decade. These parks include Hueco Tanks, Enchanted Rock and McKinney Falls, all of which contain climbing or bouldering. As a result of this funding decline, coupled with ever-increasing costs, the state parks’ current budget shortfall has lead to lay-offs, partial closings and curtailment of park programs, especially for youth. When the budget for Texas’ climbing parks suffers your climbing future is at risk.
Your help is needed to secure adequate funding for climbing parks in Texas.
There are currently two bills up for approval this session in the Texas Legislature, HB 6 and SB 252, which if passed would remove a cap on the allocation of sporting goods taxes towards Texas’ state and local parks (also including Reimer’s Ranch). These bills could result in a much-needed increase in funding to Texas State Parks and enable the restoration of park programs, hiring of additional staff, and new and improved park facilities that would benefit climbers and other recreational users. In short, the approval of HB 6 and SB 252 could result in a long-term investment in Texas’ climbing parks.
Also in the works is a proposal by Texas state legislators and agency commissioners to transfer more than 20 state park properties in Texas from the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD) over to the Texas Historical Commission (THC). THC insists that Hueco Tanks is no longer targeted for transfer though it was initially. Heuco is certainly a desirable asset as the premiere archaeological resource in the state and we must assure that it stays off the THC’s list for transfer. With THC’s mission centered on the preservation of archeological and cultural landmarks in Texas, climbing access at Hueco could change under THC management.
The Access Fund is taking action to support the approval of HB 6 and SB 252 and oppose the transfer of state parks, including Hueco Tanks, from TPWD to THC.
The Access Fund is taking the following actions: 1. An Austin-based lobbying campaign that aligns Texas climbers with other interest groups dedicated to preserving the financial security of Texas state parks and Hueco in particular. This work will also involve direct lobbying to the Texas governor’s office, and talking with numerous relevant Texas legislators and public land agency officials.
2. Working with Hueco locals and mobilizing a local grassroots organization targeting El Paso-area climbers, other Texas constituents, and out-of-state climbers that frequent Hueco who all share an interest in preserving recreational access at Hueco. This effort includes immediate letter writing to Austin-based policy makers and rallying Hueco climbers at the 2007 Rock Rodeo.
Now is the time to invest in the future of climbing at Hueco Tanks. If you are a Texas state resident contact your state legislator and urge them to:
(1) improve funding for state and local parks
(2) oppose the transfer of recreation-based parks to the Texas Historical Commission.
Visit www.accessfund.org/pdf/Hueco_Talking_Points_2_9_07.pdf to read talking points and find information on who your state representative is in Texas.
If you are a non-Texan who has visited and enjoy the climbing opportunities at Hueco Tanks, check the next ENEWS (sign up here if you don’t already receive it) to fill out an economic impact survey and show your local influence.
If you want to ensure future climbing and bouldering access to Hueco Tanks and other climbing parks in Texas, now is the time to speak up.
Stay tuned to the Access Fund ENEWS for updates to this issue.
For more information about Hueco visit: http://accessfund.org/pubs/en/e-news22.htmland a href="http://www.huecorockranch.com
Contact the Access Fund for more information: jason@accessfund.org
Legendary N. Texas Rock Climber and Environmental Advocate, Jimmy Ray Forester, Dies in Fall at 43 (12/15/2006)
By Ryan Ray, Access Fund Regional Coordinator
The rock climbing community lost a legendary climber and environmental advocate on November 24 when Jimmy Ray Forester fell while climbing in El Potrero Chico in northern Mexico.
Forester, an experienced, talented and well-known climber, failed to return to camp after a climb on El Potrero Chico's "The scariest ride in the park", a 55-pitch 5.9 ridge route. When he didn't return after the early-morning climb, an attempt was made to view his progress with binoculars, and when unsuccessful, a search was initiated. He was found the next day at the base of the wall.
"Jimmy was an intelligent and super strong climber," said Ryan Ray, a Forester climbing partner. "He never put himself, or anyone else, in danger. This climb was well within his capabilities, so we can only speculate what might have happened. It could have been rockfall or a handhold that gave way."
Forester became an iconic figure throughout Oklahoma and Texas during his 17 years in the sport. He established his own characteristically ground-up, onsight style and was endued with a deep sense of climbing history and tradition that energized other climbers. According to his friends, he was also a consummate climbing teacher and mentor.
"Jimmy was the kind of guy who cared more about the climbing community than he did himself," said Ray. "He climbed and established new routes so that others would have quality places to climb. Every time he placed a new bolt, he would always think about the next climber who would have to use it."
When he wasn't climbing, Forester was dedicated to protecting climbing resources and was an environmental activist. He served on the Board of Directors of the Wichita Mountains Climbing Coalition and the Central Texas Climbing Committee and was a strong supporter for the Access Fund, the only national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment.
"Jimmy worked to preserve the historic ethics of climbing as well as protecting the climbing resources in the North Texas and Oklahoma," said Ray. "He wanted to make sure that future generations of climbers had the same resources that we have today."
On his numerous climbs, Forester compiled hundreds of pages of route and historic data for a series of guide/history books that he planned to publish for the climbing community. "He spent countless hours developing guide book information and had one of the most complete and comprehensive collections of information on Texas and Oklahoma climbing that has probably ever been written," says Ray.
Forester leaves behind one daughter, Riley, age 4. To learn about memorial fund that has been set up in her name go to FriendsofForester.com. "Jimmy was the kind of dad who wanted to see his daughter have a great life," says Ray. "He worked hard for her, and always gave her the best that he could. Setting up the fund was one way his many friends could support him."
A memorial website with updated information has been created at www.friendsofforester.com
To make a donation benefiting his daughter Rylie please visit any Chase Bank branch and deposit to "Friends of Forester"!
Donations can also be mailed to:
Friends of Forester
c/o Chase
16831 Coit Road
Dallas, Texas 75248
For questions, contact the account officer, David Ploof at Chase Bank Dallas branch, 972-407-3415.
Concho Valley Climbers Association, Texas (10/12/2006)
By Rob Sparks
Through positive communication with the local government and presenting climbers as a legitimate and viable resource to their community, the Concho Valley Climbers Association (CVCA) works with the City of San Angelo, Texas, through the Parks Dept. to develop and open climbing areas in the region.
The organization has a written contract for the work they perform including conserving the climbing areas, and have already discussed the future projects with them. Two of four climbing areas currently under the umbrella of the CVCA were prior locations that were in jeopardy of being closed and the other two are soon to be newly opened and approved by the San Angelo Parks Dept.
Much of the success of the CVCA is due to the hard work of a small but very active group, and with new and enthusiastic people contacting the CVCA regularly wanting to get involved in the sport of climbing.
AF Note: We are excited to have the CVCA join the Access Fund Affiliate program. Welcome! If you are a local climber and are interested in starting an Affiliate organization in your area, contact Deanne Buck, Programs Director at Deanne@AccessFund.org or 303.545.6772 x112.