First-Ever Hemispheric Wide Climbing Access Organization to be Hosted by 2009 Squamish Mountain Festival
Most of us have a tick list—climbs we research, study in photos, and seek out descriptions of in guidebooks to far away places. We may live in North America, but the climbs we've done and those we aspire to do are worldwide.
El Potrero Chico and other spots in Northern Mexico are emerging as the frontier of Northern American climbing. Routes in these areas are at the top of many climbers’ winter tick lists. Valle Cochamó, a deep valley in Northern Patagonia with perhaps the longest, ice-free granite on earth and countless untouched, unnamed walls, also captures climbers’ tick list-inspired wanderlust.
These places fill our dreams, but they are also linked in another way. El Potrero Chico and Valle Cochamó are both unprotected. No legal protection keeps them open. Unlike here in the United States, no local, regional, or national organization exists to fight threatened closures and restrictions. These and other emblematic climbing areas in the Western Hemisphere are, literally, in climbing limbo—neglected, with no preservation for our climbing future.
"I would call it 'no man's land',” states Alex Catlin, the principal developer of El Potrero Chico, who has been climbing there for 20 years. "Here, most undeveloped land is claimed by the Federal government, the state government, the ejido or local commun, and at least one private owner. He continues, “The governmental park system is almost non-existent. We need so much help! But without direction, we tread water."
Access Pan America is the first-ever campaign to keep climbing areas open and protect the climbing environment across the Western Hemisphere. Access Pan America is a fledgling grassroots effort of individual climbers, climbing organizations (including the Access Fund), federations, outdoor clubs, and corporate supporters. The network will meet for the first time during the Squamish Mountain Festival, presented by ARC'TERYX, August 12-16, 2009. The inaugural meeting is sponsored by the Petzl Foundation, which will provide travel scholarships to access activists from across the Americas.
Other corporate partners, such as Mountain Gear, are supporting the travel of individual participants. Individuals and organizations that want to attend and may require a travel scholarship are invited to apply directly at www.accesspanamerica.com.
The Access Pan America/Petzl meeting is a four-day forum of discussions with the intention of creating a climbers’ access organization for the Western Hemisphere. We can't predict the form the future Access Pan America organization will take. That, after all, is the mission of the forum. But, we have heard enough to say that we will emerge with a commitment to work together in an organized way.
Climbing access organizations in the Western Hemisphere are diverse—from local climbing clubs to the recently launched nationwide access organizations in Brazil and Canada, to the almost 20-year-old Access Fund in the United States, and the well-established Climbers' Access Society of British Columbia. A critical mass of organizations and interest exist to create local, regional, and national climbers’ access networks in most of Latin America.
The principal organizer of Access Pan America is Armando Menocal, who is usually credited as the founder of the Access Fund. He started the organization in 1990 and ran it through its first years. When asked how Access Pan America came about, Menocal states, “For years I've been hearing from climbers all over Latin America, asking for help on their access problems. I kept saying that someday we'd have to respond. I finally realized that we could delay no longer, and that the first step should be a forum to bring together as many activists as we could, and go from there.”
Access Pan America includes representatives of the established access organizations in Brazil, Canada, and the US, as well as individual climbers such as Alex Catlin, Rolando Garibotti, and Juan Laguna. With the help of the Petzl Foundation and other sponsors, the Access Pan America campaign expects to include participants from Argentina, Chile, Colombia, Cuba, Panama, Honduras, Mexico, Venezuela, and Peru. Visit www.accesspanamerica.com to discuss access problems in your area, apply for a travel scholarship to the forum, or comment on Access Pan America.
Laurel Knob is Paid For!
After more than three years of fundraising efforts, the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) made the final payment for the acquisition of Laurel Knob in North Carolina. Arguably the tallest cliff in the eastern United States, Laurel Knob boasts stunning water-grooved granite routes up to ten pitches long. During the course of the fundraising efforts, the Access Fund awarded the group three separate grants totaling $25,000 to help pay off the acquisition of this 50-acre tract of cliff line. We are proud of all the work that the CCC and their supporters have done to put this treasure in the hands of climbers.
For more information, visit the CCC website.
Yellow Bluff Officially Opens!
For climbers in the Southeast, April 18 started like any other Saturday––with one big difference. This particular Saturday marked the re-opening of the historic Yellow Bluff cliff line. Approximately 35 volunteers celebrated the crag’s re-opening and stuck around to help build a trail, place anchors, put up a couple of new routes, and, of course, climb.
Climbers’ children cut the opening ribbon, creating a surreal moment for the crowd. The purchase of this cliff means that future generations will have the opportunity to climb at Yellow Bluff.
The Access Fund is proud of the Southeastern Climbers Coalition and all of their supporters for this landmark acquisition. For more information, visit Southeastern Climbers Coalition website.
Photo by Andrew Kornylak
City Support Garnered for Climbing at Auburn Quarry
Last month Climbing Resource Advocates of Greater Sacramento (CRAGS) presented to the Auburn City Council, requesting a proposed resolution to the climbing restrictions in the Auburn Quarry. The quarry features over 50 routes (with potential for up to 150 routes) on quality limestone cliffs, yet has been closed since 2003. Both the City Council and the Mayor expressed their support for a resumption of climbing at the quarry. Although the decision is still at the discretion of California Department of Parks and Recreation, CRAGS is very encouraged by this support and feels that it will bring us one step closer to re-opening climbing at the Quarry.
For more information, visit CRAGS website.
Photo: Eric Whalen
Climbing Management Plan for North Area of McDowell Sonoran Preserve Approved!
After five years of persistent and cooperative negotiations between local climbers from the Arizona Mountaineering Club (AMC), the City of Scottsdale, and the McDowell Sonoran Preserve Commission, the rock climbing plan for the north area of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve was approved. The plan includes crags that range from Half and Half Wall and Lost Wall on the west to Tom's Thumb, Gardeners, and Morrells Wall in the middle to Sven Towers, Sven Slab, and Granite Ballroom on the east, with Hogs Heaven being the southern most crag. This approval marks the preservation of all historic rock climbing in the preserve—a major win for local climbers.
In order to preserve the land and its ecology, the AMC worked with city officials to establish sustainable use expectations for the area, including designated approaches to the crags and prohibition of new bolting to minimize environmental impacts. Climbers will also be expected to comply with the Management Plan for the preserve, which includes no camping, fires, or other practices prohibited by the city.
To learn the acceptable approach trails to access these crags, climbers are asked to review maps available on the Arizona Mountaineering Club’s website. New trailhead locations are now being planned and will be built over the next several years. Climbers should be aware that as new trails are built some old approach trails will eventually be closed, making many existing guidebooks out-of-date regarding access points. The AMC will continue to communicate updates as they unfold.
Please direct any questions concerning the plan for rock climbing in the McDowell Mountains to Erik Filsinger, AMC Land Advocacy Chair and Rock Climbing Liaison with City of Scottsdale Staff at firstname.lastname@example.org, or Scott Hamilton, the City of Scottsdale Trails Planner at email@example.com.
Climbing Access Update for Wichita Mountains, OK
Over the last few months the Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition (WMCC) and the Access Fund have been watching the land-use planning process closely at the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge and taking steps to ensure continued climbing access.
The two organizations have worked together to draft formal comments to the ongoing Comprehensive Conservation Plan (CCP) for the refuge, obtain a support letter from the Oklahoma Congressional delegation for continued climbing access, and file a Freedom of Information Act request to determine whether the refuge or the Fish and Wildlife Service’s regional office were planning a climbing ban similar to the one that closed climbing at Illinois’ Crab Orchard Wildlife Refuge in 2007.
In March, Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith traveled to Oklahoma and, along with Access Fund Regional Coordinator Aaron Gibson, met with the refuge manager to discuss how the climbing community might address any climbing access concerns at the refuge. The public will have one more opportunity to comment on the proposed management plan for the refuge. Learn more about the history of this access issue.
For more information and updates, contact the WMCC: www.wichitamountains.org/contact.html
Friends of Williamson Rock Working with the USFS in California
In late February, the United States Forest Service (USFS) announced $85K in funding for a thorough environmental assessment of the habitat at Williamson Rock. The climbing area outside of Los Angeles was closed as a precautionary measure to protect the mountain yellow-legged frog until a study could be funded. Since funding allocation was announced, the Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR) have continued advocating for climbing access during the study planning process. The FoWR attended a meeting in March with representatives of the Angeles National Forest to discuss measures that would both allow climbing access to Williamson Rock, while enhancing the protection of the frog. For regular updates, please visit the FoWR blog.
Access Fund and Washington Climbers Coalition Working to Protect Lower Index Town Wall, WA
The Index Town Walls of Washington feature one of the best concentrations of steep, clean granite cracks and face climbs in Western North America. Prior to its 50-year climbing history, parts of the Lower Town Wall were quarried for granite before the Burlington Northern railroad moved closer to the wall in the 1960s. While the Country and Upper Town Wall are protected on State Park and National Forest land, the family who ran the quarrying operation still own the 20-acre parcel that includes the Inner Walls, Lower Town Wall, and Quarry. This area contains such classics as Thin Fingers, Godzilla, City Park, and Toxic Shock.
The landowners have historically allowed public access and climbing. However, recent interest from quarrying companies led the landowner to post no trespassing signs earlier in March. The Access Fund and Washington Climbers Coalition are working closely together to address the access issue and work with the landowner to find an alternative solution, such as permanent protection through acquisition in the near future. The Access Fund and WCC thank the climbing community, Washington State Parks, and other advocates for your support. For more information, property map, and updates, please view: www.washingtonclimbers.org/Current/Town.htm.
Portion of Near Trapps at the Gunks closed to climbing
The Near Trapps at the Gunks offer nearly a mile of classic and popular climbs just south of Route 44-55. In 1993, the Access Fund worked with the Mohonk Preserve, Open Space Institute, and Friends of Shawangunks to protect access to the Near Trapps, but a portion remains on private land. Earlier this month, a portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and obtain access to climbs further south by rappelling in from the Millbrook Ridge Trail. Gunks Climbers’ Coalition is working on the issue and looking into potential solutions. For more information and updates, please view: www.gunksclimbers.org/.
Access Fund Announces First Round Grant Recipients for 2009
Access Fund Announces First Round Grant Recipients for 2009
In the first round of the Climbing Grants Preservation program for 2009, the Access Fund awarded over $20,000 to support local climbing activism and conservation of the climbing environment. Presented three times annually, the Climbing Preservation Grants program provides financial assistance for local climber activism and protection of the climbing environment in the United States. During this round of grants, the Access Fund is supporting ten proposals, representing a wide array of projects from grassroots start-up and outreach, to acquisitions, trail work, climber education, kiosks, and research surveys. The Access Fund applauds the grant applicants and climbing community across the nation for a great start to 2009.
The following grants were awarded this round:
Southeast Climbers Coalition (SCC) – Steele Acquisition
A grant was awarded to SCC to go toward the purchase of over 25 acres known as Steele in Alabama. The Steele property features 1,418 linear feet of cliff line and includes access, parking, and land above the cliff. Steele has been permanently closed since 1987 but features a rich history of traditional and sport route development in the 70s and 80s with potential for new bouldering development. Steele is located close to metro areas and is visible on the drive to Horse Pens 40.
Dr. Rob Ramey – Review Paper on Raptor Closures
A grant was awarded to Dr. Rob Ramey for the research and production of a scientific publication that provides an objective and well-documented peer-reviewed analysis of the literature on human disturbance to nesting raptors. This paper will provide a quantitative and reasoned basis for land managers and climbers to make informed choices on the appropriate scale and timing of recreational closures for cliff nesting raptors.
Friends of Indian Creek (FOIC) – Organizational Start-up
A grant was awarded to FOIC to assist with start-up costs, including 501(c)(3) non profit fees and incorporation. This process is a key step for organizational fundraising toward future projects.
Yosemite National Park – Climber’s Brochure
A grant was awarded to Yosemite National Park for the creation and printing of a brochure for climbers visiting Yosemite. The Access Fund, Yosemite Climbing Association, the American Alpine Club, Friends of YOSAR, and the Yosemite Mountaineering School have participated in drafting the brochure, which will include low-impact expectations, safety information, maps, and descriptions of various climbing opportunities in the park. The brochures will be distributed widely at visitor centers, campgrounds, outdoor stores, and climbing schools in the area as well as online at NPS and partner websites.
Four Corners Climbing Coalition (4CCC) – Hawkins Preserve Kiosk
A grant was awarded to 4CCC for construction of a kiosk at Hawkins Preserve, a popular local bouldering area on private property in Cortez, Colorado. The site was closed in 2007 but reopened with 4CCC’s efforts in partnership with the landowner. The kiosk will meet a critical need to communicate permit requirements at the trailhead.
Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) – Rumney Rocks Trail and Staging
A grant was awarded to AMC to help fund a professional trail crew for a one-month project to perform heavy trail reconstruction at the popular Waimea and Main cliffs at Rumney. Further work will be done in coordination with local volunteers and the Rumney Climbers Association. This project will address recent impacts of Rattlesnake fire in 2008, in agreement with the newly adopted Rumney Rocks Management Plan.
Climbers of Hueco Tanks (CHTC) – Organizational Start-up
A grant was awarded to CHTC to assist with start-up costs, including 501(c)(3) non profit fees and incorporation. CHTC is a newly formed local climbing organization dedicated to preserving and enhancing rock climbing at Hueco Tanks Historic Site with projections of 1,000 members within the three years.
Access Fund Land Foundation (AFLF) – Operating Funds
A grant was awarded to the AFLF to cover expenses for the continued stewardship and management of Golden Cliffs, Unaweep Canyon, and Society Turns in Colorado. The AFLF is a separate non profit entity incorporated in 1990 to hold title of these climbing areas.
The BLM-Bishop Field Office – Bishop Climbing Ethics Brochure
A grant was awarded to the BLM-Bishop Field Office to help with the creation of a climbing ethics brochure. The brochure will feature low-impact climbing practices specific to Bishop, a sensitive climbing area on BLM land and Inyo National Forest. Greater distribution of materials at campgrounds is necessary to educate the growing number of climbers bouldering at Bishop each year.
Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council (LVCLC) – Education Materials
A grant was awarded to LVCLC for education materials, including membership brochures, Leave-No-Trace membership, and banners. The LVCLC recently restructured and new materials are needed to grow membership and outreach.
About the Access Fund
Since 1991, the Access Fund has been the only national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 1.6 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: climbing management policy, stewardship and conservation, local support and mobilization, land acquisition and protection, and education. For more information visit www.accessfund.org.
Access Fund Hosts Land Conservation Summit
Access Fund Hosts Land Conservation Summit
If you’ve kept up with climbing access headlines at all over the past few years, you’ve seen the trend—Local Climbing Organization Buys Crag X. As the Access Fund looks to the future of climbing access in America, we see private land pressures continuing to increase, and as a result, LCO ownership and management of climbing areas will continue to grow. Our mission here at Access Fund headquarters is to help build the capacity of LCOs to take on these complex responsibilities. To this end, the Access Fund hosted the Land Conservation Summit last week, a three-day event that brought leaders from LCOs together to learn and share best practices around land acquisition and protection.
Read a firsthand account of the summit
About the Access Fund
Since 1991, the Access Fund has been the only national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 1.6 million climbers nationwide in ALL forms of climbing; rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: public policy, stewardship & conservation (including grants), grassroots activism, climber education, and land acquisition. For more information visit www.accessfund.org.
Hueco Tanks’ Grenade Boulder Climbing Site Temporarily Closed
From: Texas Parks & Wildlife
EL PASO, Texas – Rock climbers recently noticed canyon wrens nesting at a popular climbing site at Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site. Due to concerns about disturbing the nesting birds, the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department has temporarily closed Grenade Boulder until hatchlings fledge. It is expected to be closed for about a month.
Signage designating a temporary closure of the North Mountain locale was erected March 21, according to site Superintendent Wanda Olszewski. The temporary closing, she said, was requested and endorsed by the Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition, whose volunteers were working on an erosion control project when the nest was noticed.
“This is the first case I’m aware of in recent years, or possibly the first ever, of a climber-requested closure,” Olszewski said.
TPWD, which operates Hueco Tanks, and the climbing community haven’t always enjoyed such favorable relations, so park staff were impressed that Hueco Tanks climbing coalition president Nikias Kiehnle and fellow climber Andy Klier came to them with the request for the temporary closure after they noticed the nest under the Grenade Boulder overhang.
Canyon wrens, as with all native birds, are protected by various federal statutes. The attractive songbirds are uncommon to locally common permanent residents in the Trans-Pecos and Texas Hill Country, TPWD wildlife biologist Mark Lockwood said.
While the Grenade Boulder climbing route is temporarily closed, dozens of other comparable climbing routes remain open in the park’s North Mountain self-guided area.
Preservation of Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site’s cultural and natural features is the site’s primary mission and is required by law. Some climbing routes have been permanently closed over the years to protect archeological sites and other resources. But the park’s mission also requires that the public be afforded recreational opportunities, and the staff works with affected user groups to try to accommodate their needs and provide the best visitor experience possible.
TPWD archeologists in 2007 assessed several areas at Hueco Tanks for signs of risk to archeological deposits, such as loss of vegetation, erosion or other changes that had occurred over time. Photographs of the sites were compared to photos taken of the same areas in previous years to determine user impact. Most of the areas were found to be in good condition, but those which indicated significant changes, such as the north face of Mushroom Boulder, were closed to further activities to protect valuable cultural resources.
Opened as a state park in 1970, the 860-acre site encompasses several clusters of 400-foot high mountains of granite-like rock that rise out of the flat Chihuahuan Desert terrain. Rock basins, from which the park gets its name, have served as a natural rain-collection system for millennia. Today, the state park represents both a natural and cultural oasis, where prehistoric peoples left a treasure trove of more than 2,000 pictographs and petroglyphs, some believed to date back several thousand years. More than 200 painted masks attributed to the Jornada Mogollon culture have been discovered at Hueco Tanks -- the largest collection of painted masks in North America.
In the 1980s, Hueco Tanks earned an international reputation as a top rock-climbing spot, especially during mild winter months. In addition, a growing number of school groups from El Paso and throughout West Texas find the park to be an outstanding outdoor classroom.
Because of graffiti and other past damage to some of Hueco Tanks’ invaluable archeological treasures and its fragile desert ecosystem, park users’ access to the park has been limited in recent years in accordance with a public use plan. Park visitors must watch a 20-minute TPWD video that explains the history of Hueco Tanks, the importance of conserving its natural and cultural resources, and defines the park’s self-guided and guided-only areas
North Mountain, with roughly four miles of marked trails, is open to unguided access for up to 70 persons at a time, while West Mountain, East Mountain and East Spur areas can be visited only on tours led by park staff, trained volunteers and commercial guides. Visitors also can choose from guided hiking, birding, rock climbing and bouldering tours, as well as three levels of rock art tours.
For more information, call Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site at (915) 857-1135.
Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC) Secures Expansion of Fixed Anchors in Boulder Flatirons
Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC) Secures Expansion of Fixed Anchors in Boulder Flatirons
The FCC recently secured substantial expansion of the formations open for fixed anchors in the Boulder Flatirons. The FCC has worked for many years to have a complete ban on new bolts (issued by the city in 1990) gradually lifted. Starting in 2009, Boulder has added several new formations that are now eligible for bolting applications: the Maiden, the Matron, Dinosaur Rock, Overhang Rock, Bear Creek Spire, and more of the Third Flatiron. This expansion offers some excellent opportunities for new routes. Persons interested in bolting applications should visit www.flatironsclimbing.org for more information.
Climb. Hike. Fight ovarian cancer one foot at a time.
Climb. Hike. Fight ovarian cancer one foot at a time.
Raise funds and awareness for ovarian cancer by participating in the 3rd Annual HERA Ovarian Cancer Climb for Life on June 26th and 27th in Boulder, CO. Meet and greet other hikers and climbers on Friday night; climb and hike all day Saturday; and then eat, dance, and win gear from our awesome sponsors Saturday night! Early Bird registration is now open: http://www.herafoundation.org/Colorado/index.cfm
Access Fund Mourns the Passing of Rob Hart
Access Fund Mourns the Passing of Rob Hart
Last week, the Access Fund and the climbing community lost one of its own in a tragic skiing accident. Rob Hart, founder and owner of Crazy Creek, was killed while skiing his local mountain in Red Lodge, MT. Rob was one of the original supporters of the Access Fund and was actively involved in the climbing advocacy community for many years. We honor Rob’s contributions to the Access Fund community and we thank him for the many ways that he touched our lives. He will be missed.
Access Road to Bulo Point Secured
Access to Bulo Point, a popular climbing area on the east side of Mt. Hood, recently came into question during an environmental assessment to restore aquatic habitat in Mt. Hood National Forest. The assessment resulted in three recommended courses of action, one of which would decommission an access road to the climbing area.
During public meetings and comment periods climbers rallied around this issue, advocating for an alternate solution that would keep the majority of the access road open with the addition of a short trail to connect the end of the road to Bulo Point.
In January of this year, the Forest Service Supervisor issued the decision to implement the alternate solution, which will allow the northern portion of the Bulo Point access road to remain open. Plans are already underway for construction of a parking area and a short trail to connect the parking lot with Bulo Point. This represents a big victory for local climbers. See plan details in the projects and plans section under aquatic restoration.
New Hope for Williamson Rock Access
After a three-year "temporary" climbing closure at Williamson Rock near Los Angeles, we have seen significant progress in the last few months. The area was originally closed as a precautionary measure to protect critical habitat of the mountain yellow-legged frog while the United States Forest Service (USFS) conducted an environmental assessment and studied options for alternate trail access. However, the area remained closed due to lack of funding for the study. The USFS has finally earmarked funding for what we hope will be a thorough assessment of the area, including alternate trail access. The USFS plans to implement a strategy for the Williamson Rock funds by October 2009.
Visit the Friends of Williamson Rock website for more information and updates
Climbing Potentially at Risk at the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, Oklahoma
The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service is working on a new conservation plan for the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, including a review of compatible land uses, and local climbers are making sure they have a voice in the process. The Wichitas, as they are commonly known, offer a unique wilderness climbing experience that is unmatched by any other area in the Midwest.
The Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition is working to ensure that the new plan will not adversely affect the long-standing tradition of rock climbing at this classic Oklahoma area. Once completed, the conservation plan will serve as a guide for managing the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge for the next 15 years.
Senators Tom Coburn (R-OK) and James Inhofe (R-OK) have long supported climbing at the refuge, and both issued written responses to the Fish and Wildlife Service, stating their concerns about the compatibility review and their continued support of rock climbing in the refuge. For more details, see www.wichitamountains.org.
Local climbers went through a similar struggle in the early 90s and were successful in protecting the tradition of climbing in the Wichitas. Since that time, the climbers coalition has maintained a healthy working relationship with the refuge. But with the recent compatibility review process, and rumors that the refuge manager wants to ban climbing, local Oklahoma climbers have become concerned about the future of climbing in the Wichitas.
The Fish and Wildlife Service wants your comments by March 5. This is your opportunity to help identify issues and concerns for the Wichitas and to let land managers know you support continued rock climbing in the refuge. Your participation is critical to the preservation of climbing opportunities so that the Wichitas dont end up like the Crab Orchard Wildlife Refuge in Illinois, where climbing was banned last year through a similar planning process.
For details regarding how to submit your comments by March 5, 2009, see www.fws.gov/southwest/refuges/oklahoma/wichitamountains/pdf_files....
A sample advocacy letter underscoring the compatibility of climbing on the refuge can be found here: www.accessfund.org/pdf/Wichita Mts Wildlife Refuge.pdf
New Climbing Access Trails Opened in the McDowell Mountains, Arizona
After being threatened by the encroachment of a housing development, climbing access in the McDowell Mountains, near Scottsdale, Arizona, just got easier and more secure. A series of defined climbing access paths now lead from the main trail system to the following crags (from west to east): Half and Half Wall, Fort McDowell, Lost Wall, the Rist, Lost in the Air, Toms Thumb, Glass Dome, Gardeners Wall, Crossover Wall, East End, Goat Hill, Hog Heaven, Morrells Wall, Morrells Parking Area, Girlie Man, Sven Towers I, II and III, Sven Slab, Trundle Pinnacle, Rosetta Stone and Granite Ballroom. Rock climbing is limited to the existing and historical climbing crags.
The spring of 2009 will see the official opening of the North Access Area of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve, marked by the opening of the Toms Thumb trail. The North Access Area serves the north end of the McDowell Mountains that are south of Dynamite Boulevard/Rio Verde Drive.
The City of Scottsdale wants to educate the climbing community about its plans to open this area and receive feedback. There will be a meeting on January 26 at 7:00 p.m. at the Phoenix Country Day School (3901 E. Stanford Drive, Paradise Valley, 85253) for the purpose of receiving comments from members of the climbing community.
This meeting will be held in conjunction with the Arizona Mountaineering Clubs January member meeting. If you are interested in hearing about the climber access and overall climbing management in the McDowells, please plan to attend. Mountaineering club membership is not required. The presentation will include maps of the North Access Area layout and climber access paths followed by a question-and-answer session as well as an opportunity to fill out comment cards. Your input can also be emailed Scott Hamilton, City of Scottsdale Trails Planner, at SHamilton@scottsdaleaz.gov. For questions, contact Erik Filsinger, the Climber Liaison to City of Scottsdale staff, at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Madrone Wall Update, OR
By Keith Daellenbach
Two events are coming up at the Madrone Wall in Clackamas County, and public involvement is requested.
The FIRST EVENT is Public Involvement Meeting #1 (of three) to be held at Still Meadow Community (16561 S.E. Marna Road, Damascus, OR 97089, 1/2-mile north of Madrone Wall, www.stillmeadowcommunity.com) on Wednesday, August 6 from 6:00 to 8:00 pm.
Clackamas County Parks is now inviting public input for a Parks Master Planning process for Hardscrabble Quarry (a.k.a. Madrone Wall). The County is working with the community to complete a feasibility study and develop a concept Parks Master Plan for the Madrone Wall. THIS IS YOUR OPPORTUNITY to attend and provide input on future uses of and improvements to this site, including the potential creation of a park.
The County's Madrone Wall is a 44-acre site adjacent to Highway 224 between Carver and Barton just south of Damascus. This site was purchased by the County in 1937 and was sporadically quarried from the 1950s through the 1970s. For decades, it was used by outdoor enthusiasts, including hikers, rock climbers, picnickers, and wildflower viewers, before the County closed it to public access in 1997. A County plan to quarry the site was eventually dropped in 2000. In 2006, the Board of County Commissioners unanimously agreed to not sell this public site and to make it a priority for Parks Master Planning. This meeting is the first step to involve the public in the Park's Master Planning process.
Comments, suggestions, or questions regarding this Park Master Planning process should be sent to Katie Dunham at email@example.com (503/794-8051) or Chris VanDuzer at firstname.lastname@example.org (503/353-4663). Submissions will be presented at the Public Meetings.
The SECOND EVENT is an Adopt-a-Crag that the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee is coordinating with Clackamas County Parks to help restore native plant biodiversity and ecosystem to the Madrone Wall by removing invasive plants (e.g., Himalayan blackberry and English ivy). Please join us at our very first opportunity to make a difference at this amazing civic treasure since the site was closed 11 years ago! This is a great event if you are looking for an environmental public service project.
The Adopt-a-Crag will be held on Saturday, September 27. Meet at the parking lot of Carver School (just as you enter Carver from the North on Highway 224 at 16077 S.E., Highway 224, Damascus, Oregon 97089, www.carverschool.org/Find_Us) and carpool to/from Madrone Wall site. Bring: appropriate safety equipment (work gloves, work boots, etc.), water, hat, sunscreen, and gardening tools (loppers, pruners, shears, small hand saws, shovels, dandelion pickers, weed wrenches, digging tools, etc.). Please RSVP by 20 September to email@example.com. Please continue to respect the County's "No Tresspassing" wishes.