Action Alert: Re-Open Williamson Rock
We need your help to lift an 8-year climbing ban at Williamson Rock, a premier sport climbing destination in Southern California. The Forest Service is re-evaluating this closure and climbers need to submit their input. Visit our action center and take action now!
Access Fund Announces 2013 Sharp End Awards
The Access Fund announced today the winners of the 2013 Sharp End Awards. Each year the Access Fund recognizes individuals, organizations, and businesses that go above and beyond to volunteer their time and efforts to preserving climbing access and the climbing environment. These recipients stand out in their commitment to the American climbing community, and the Access Fund is honored to present this year's awards to a worthy group of volunteers and activists. Please join us in congratulating them!
Menocal Lifetime Achievement Award - Jonathan Knight
Access Fund is proud to present Jonathan Knight with a Menocal Lifetime Achievement Award for his many years of climbing advocacy, stewardship, and service in the Wasatch Range and Salt Lake City area. For more than a decade, Jonathan has been committed to preserving the area’s climbing through hands-on stewardship projects, land manager partnerships, and volunteer service on the board of Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA). Jonathan has served as a board member or volunteer for SLCA since the organization began in 2002, and continues to guide their policy and conservation work. His many years of work at numerous little-known local areas, as well as major, renowned areas such as American Fork, Little Cottonwood Canyon, and Joe’s Valley have secured and sustained climbing access for Salt Lake City’s active and growing climbing community. Jonathan’s unwavering dedication to the cause of climbing access is an inspiration to Salt Lake City climbers and a model for the area’s climbing stewards. Thank you, Jonathan!
Bebie Leadership Award - Tim Keenan
Access Fund is proud to give Tim Keenan a Bebie Leadership Award. Tim is the Co-Chair of Gunks Climbers Coalition (GCC) and an Access Fund Regional Coordinator. His proactive leadership of GCC has helped the organization grow its membership, host numerous Adopt a Crag events, and strengthen its partnerships with Mohonk Preserve, Minnewaska State Park, and other key Gunks-area landowners. Recognizing the need for a new approach to stewardship education for new climbers, Tim created an exciting new educational program for new climbers transitioning to outdoor climbing from the gym. The Gym to Crag Transition program will help instill positive behaviors that preserve climbing access and the environment. Keep up the great work, Tim!
Sharp End Award - Marion Hutchison
It is Access Fund’s great honor to present Marion Hutchison with a Sharp End Award for his longstanding success and dedication to protecting climbing in Oklahoma. Marion’s activism began in the early 90s, when climbing access was threatened in Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. His work kept the area open, and initiated an early local climbing organization which soon became the Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition (WMCC). In 2001, with WMCC and Access Fund, Marion drove the purchase and transfer of Baldy Point to Quartz Mountain State Park, forever protecting the area’s climbing. Access Fund recognized Marion with a Menocal Lifetime Achievement Award in 2002, though perhaps too soon because his work wasn’t done! In 2007, U.S. Fish and Wildlife revisited their management plan for the Wichita Refuge, and questioned whether rock climbing was a compatible use. Marion led a concerted, multi-year effort with WMCC and Access Fund, partnering with Refuge staff, state senators and representatives, and the climbing community to ensure climbing access was preserved in the Refuge. His successful effort once again preserved climbing in the Refuge, while also setting an important, positive precedent for other federal and state wildlife management areas across the country. Marion’s lifelong commitment to climbing advocacy is an inspiration to climbing advocates and organizations across the country.
Sharp End Award - Paul Vidal
Access Fund is thrilled to award Paul Vidal, past President of Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition (RRGCC), with a Sharp End Award for his leadership in protecting Red River Gorge climbing. Paul is a longtime volunteer and board member with RRGCC, diligently working to preserve climbing on public and private lands in the Red. He’s spent countless hours helping to organize trail days, put on RRGCC’s annual Rocktoberfest, meet with land managers, and build positive relationships with the local residents and businesses. In 2012, the same year that RRGCC successfully paid off their more than 750-acre Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve, Paul spearheaded the Miller Fork acquisition, working with local landowners and Access Fund to negotiate RRGCC’s successful purchase of the new Miller Fork Recreational Preserve. The Preserve encompasses 309 acres and protects climbing access to miles of sandstone cliff line. Thank you, Paul!
Sharp End Award - Jeff Engel
Access Fund is honored to present Jeff Engel with a Sharp End Award for decades of committed climbing advocacy and stewardship in Minnesota and surrounding areas. In the 90s Jeff and other local climbers were instrumental in keeping climbing areas like Red Wing and Willow River open to climbing. He later worked with the City of Sandstone to open Robinson Park to rock and ice climbing, helping turn the area into a Midwestern ice destination. In 2012, Jeff initiated the purchase of a 108-acre tract of private land containing some of the finest sandstone boulders in the Midwest—a bouldering area known as Sandstone. His proactive work brought the private landowners, Minnesota Climbers Association, Access Fund, Parks & Trails Council of Minnesota, and Minnesota Department of Natural Resources together to purchase the property for transfer to Minnesota State Parks. Congratulations, Jeff!
Sharp End Award - Jason Haas
The Access Fund honors Jason Haas for his leadership in protecting climbing access along the Colorado Front Range. Jason volunteers as a board member with the Flatirons Climbing Council and Boulder Climbing Community, dedicating his time to stewardship projects, access issues, and fixed anchor replacement. As an avid first ascentionist and founder of the guidebook company Fixed Pin Publishing, his positive work extends into the South Platte, home of his most recent climbing obsessions. Most recently, Jason played a critical role in partnering with a landowner at Thunder Ridge to educate climbers about access. His proactive stewardship work can be seen at other local crags such as Clear Creek Canyon and Golden Cliffs. Thanks for your work, Jason!
Sharp End Award - Rocco Bocchicchio
The Access Fund is proud to present Rocco Bocchicchio with a Sharp End award for his dedicated work educating climbers on Leave No Trace ethics and promoting the Access Fund at gyms across the country. Rocco is a La Sportiva athlete that currently works as the Head Instructor at Brooklyn Boulders (BKB) indoor climbing facilities. There, he created a program that allows climbers to become members of the Access Fund alongside their gym memberships. He also championed ethical climbing education alongside climbing instruction courses at BKB gyms, helping to create a new generation of climbers in the Northeast that understand how their behavior impacts access to climbing areas. Rocco also guides at Hueco Tanks every season and includes climbing ethics education in his tours. Thanks for your dedication, Rocco!
Sharp End Award - Torne Valley Climbers Coalition
Access Fund is pleased to recognize the Torne Valley Climbers Coalition (TVCC) for their exemplary grassroots organizing and advocacy which successfully reopened the Powerlinez climbing area in Torne Valley, New York. Powerlinez was closed in 2011 due to concerns about increased climbing use from the area’s multiple landowners. A core team of individuals formed TVCC and began working with the local climbing community and Powerlinez’ three landowners. Each TVCC leader brought important skills to bear on the effort. TVCC’s patient, professional, and cooperative approach reopened Powerlinez in 2013 and serves as a model for successful grassroots climbing advocacy. Congratulations, TVCC!
Sharp End Award – Petzl
The Access Fund is honored to present Petzl with a Sharp End Award for their many years of support and commitment to preserving and protecting the climbing environment. A generous supporter of the Access Fund since our grassroots beginnings, Petzl has helped the Access Fund grow stronger and expand our advocacy and land acquisition programs. As one of the original investors in the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign, Petzl has helped the Access Fund purchase 14 climbing areas since 2009. Petzl has also hosted the Banff Mountain Film Festival in Moab for past 10 years, donating all proceeds to the Access Fund. We applaud Petzl for their continued dedication to protecting America's climbing.
Land Conservation Award - Minnesota Climbers Association
The Access Fund is excited to present Minnesota Climbers Association (MCA) with a Land Conservation Award for its dedication to protecting the Sandstone bouldering area. MCA originally partnered with the landowner to allow climbing, but access was threatened when the property was listed for sale in 2012. MCA immediately stepped up and the landowners gave MCA an opportunity to purchase the property. MCA found a great local partner, the Parks & Trails Council of Minnesota (PTCM), to purchase and hold the property for transfer to Minnesota State Parks. Access Fund was proud to grant a $5,000 award and provide fundraising assistance to help MCA and PTCM raise $30,000 in just 6 months. We congratulate MCA on their success and look forward to securing long-term protection of the area with MCA, PTCM, and Minnesota State Parks!
Castle Crags Protected!
A unique alliance between a land trust, three timber companies, the climbing community and the Forest Service has resulted in permanent protection of the beloved Castle Crags area in central California, a rock climbing destination and an important water source for the citizens of California.
Two square miles of land adjacent to the Castle Crags State Park and Federal Wilderness were acquired by the Wilderness Land Trust this week by sale from Roseburg Forest Products. As a result of the acquisition, over 1,250 acres will be eventually transferred to the USDA-Forest Service for inclusion in the Shasta-Trinity National Forest. Funding for the transaction was provided by the David and Lucile Packard Foundation, along with the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign and The Conservation Alliance.
Eagles and other raptors frequently soar by the Crags, which contain world-class climbing opportunities. In the forest surrounding the Crags, almost 1,000 acres of mature timber also now stand protected. The property is located south of Dunsmuir and Mount Shasta, just off Interstate 5, from which the Crags are clearly visible. Little Castle Creek provides spawning habitat for trout and fishing opportunities and it flows to the Sacramento River, providing clean water throughout California via the Sacramento River Delta.
“Roseburg recognized there was a higher and better use for this land and was happy to make the sale. It maintains a long tradition of active community support for conservation and recreation efforts.” said Scott Folk, Vice-President of Resources at Roseburg.
“These parcels were a better fit with the public lands in the area,” said Arne Hultgren, Resource Manager with Roseburg.
The transaction culminated two years of collaboration between Roseburg and the Trust. In addition, Sierra-Pacific Industries and Kimberly-Clark Corporation assisted in the disposition of legacy mineral and access issues.
Other partners critical to the success of the project were local climbers and businesses. The Crags contain over 20 challenging climbing routes as recently detailed in the Castle Crags section of “Mount Shasta Area Rock Climbing—A Climber’s Guide to Siskiyou County” by Grover Shipman.
“The land contains 360 acres of the Crags--dramatic rock outcrops with amazing views that also are part of local history—the Wintu Tribe fought and died to protect it and still come for spiritual healing and guidance and to collect plants for medicinal purposes,” said Aimee Rutledge, the Wilderness Land Trust’s California Program Manager.
“We are extremely gratified to protect this iconic land providing clean water, trout habitat and recreational access, and to enable the addition of this land to the Castle Crags Wilderness for future generations,” said Reid Haughey, President of the Trust.
Ranging from the bottom of Little Castle Creek to the top of Castle Crags, the area has few developed trails, the primary one accessing Castle Dome. Local groups like the Mount Shasta Trail Association have proposed building an Around-the-Crags Trail at some time in the future. Views of both Mount Shasta and Mount Lassen abound from the Castle Crags Wilderness.
"The acquisition is a great example of a large-scale win-win for conservation, cultural resources, and recreation, including access to incredible wilderness climbing," says Joe Sambataro, the Access Fund’s Access Director. "We are delighted to play a supporting role in assisting the Trust."
“We are proud to be a part of the effort to increase the protected acreage at Castle Crags, and to improve access to this special place,” said John Sterling, Executive Director of The Conservation Alliance, a group of outdoor industry companies that work together to support conservation initiatives. “Our member companies benefit when outdoor recreation is more accessible.”
Access Fund Brings Climbers Together for Two-Day Educate for Access Summit
Over the Halloween weekend, the Access Fund brought together 46 members of the climbing community in the Gunks to address the increasing need for climber education as it relates to environmental impacts and outdoor ethics.
Throughout the US, the increase in climbing’s popularity is beginning to stress our climbing resources. Issues like human waste, erosion, vegetation loss, and user conflicts are being noticed by landowners, environmental groups, and many local climbers.
Over the course of the two-day summit, the Access Fund brought together experts from the climbing community, climbing gyms, academia, and guide services to begin discussing these issues and generate strategies for educating climbers on minimum impact.
The Access Fund is committed to playing a lead role in climber education and will be taking the lessons learned from the Educate for Access summit and putting them together into a cohesive, obtainable, and strategic plan for the future.
CAMP Gear Grant Winner Announced
Congratulations to Jeanette Strother, Access Fund Birthdays fundraiser and winner of the $50 CAMP Gear Grant for the third quarter! Jeanette dedicated her birthday to climbing access in September, and raised money from her family and friends.
“I decided to donate my birthday to climbing access because the work of the Access Fund is critical to the future of climbing in the US,” says Jeanette. “The combination of legal action, fundraising, and community involvement is a very effective way to make sure that climbing areas remain open, accessible, and sustainable for future years and generations of climbers.”
Jeanette is looking to get more experience aiding big walls, and plans to use the CAMP Gear Grant to invest in aid gear. Every fundraiser who raises money through an Access Fund Birthdays campaign is automatically eligible for the grant, and we will be selecting one more winner in 2013, so it’s not too late to register!
Pledge your birthday!
Colorado’s Gold Butte Opens to Public Access
Gold Butte, a pinnacle of Entrada sandstone just outside Aspen, Colorado, was once a popular spot with local climbers in the 1970s, but the private landowners closed it to public access in 1983.
The Access Fund has been working with local climbers and Pitkin County Open Space and Trails to acquire the property, advise on risk management, and develop a climbing management plan for the area. We are happy to report that the County has successfully completed the purchase, and Gold Butte is now open to the climbing public.
Access Fund sincerely thanks local climber Bob Wade of the Ute Mountaineer for his local leadership in spearheading this effort.
Get more information, including a free online guide!
Historic Indian Rock Bouldering Area Gets a Makeover
Last month, nearly 30 volunteers set out to give the historic Indian Rock in the Berkeley Hills, California a facelift.
Many famous climbers like Steve Roper, Royal Robbins, and Galen Rowell cut their teeth at the famous Bay Area bouldering spot, and it continues to be a beloved area for locals. However it was suffering from eroding trails and landing areas, as well as an overload of trash and broken glass.
Local climbers organized a two-day Adopt a Crag event, in partnership with the City of Berkeley, the Access Fund, and the local climbing gyms – Great Western Power Company and Ironworks. Over the course of two days, volunteers removed about eight cubic yards of dirt, rubble, glass, and trash, as well as laid down new wood chips in the climbing areas, rebuilt retaining walls, and cleared paths.
This project helped strengthen relationships between climbers and the City of Berkeley, as well as residents of the Berkeley Hills neighborhood.
Ohio Climbers Coalition Newest Joint Member Affiliate
We are pleased to welcome Ohio Climbers Coalition (OCC) as the Access Fund’s newest joint member affiliate. The OCC is devoted to opening and preserving access to climbing areas throughout Ohio. OCC recently completed a successful Adopt a Crag at Cuyhoga Valley National Park. They are hosting another Adopt a Crag this weekend in partnership with Cleveland Metro Parks. The Access Fund is excited to expand our partnership with OCC to include joint membership. You can now join both organizations at the same time, with a single membership—benefits from both organizations for the cost of one! Joint membership starts at just $35.
Summit Rock Opens to Climbing After 5-Year Closure
In early October, Sanborn County re-opened Summit Rock in the Bay Area of California after 5 years of closure. The year-round closure was sparked by concerns over nesting peregrine falcons and other management challenges that come with a forested urban park, such as night-time partying and vandalism.
The Access Fund, our Regional Coordinator Paul Minault, and numerous local climbers have been working with the County to address these challenges. Generous financial support from Planet Granite Climbing Yoga & Fitness helped fund an expert raptor biologist to advise the County and demonstrate that climbing, when done outside of the standard seasonal nesting period, will not disrupt the raptors. Local climbers also stepped up to volunteer with the County's peregrine falcon monitoring program, which is paramount to keeping the area open in future years.
Climbing is now open seasonally on weekends under a free permit system that limits access to 35 people per day. To receive a free permit via email, call the Parks Department reservation line at (408) 355-2201.
New Study Shows Climbers are Main Recreational Users of Boulder Canyon
Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund announce the release of a Boulder Canyon User Study facilitated by Travis Flohr of University of Colorado Denver. The study ran from May 2012 to October 2013 to document climbing activities in Boulder Canyon.
Boulder Canyon, located in Boulder County, Colorado, comprises an approximately 15-mile long corridor from west to east. Land ownership in this area is a mix of National Forest, county, city, and private lands. The canyon provides a wide array of recreation opportunities for rock climbing, fishing, picnicking, hiking, mountain biking and scenic driving. The 1,500 routes, extensive variety, and great scenery make Boulder Canyon one of the most popular climbing areas in the state.
Based on the study, the estimated number of climber visits per year within Boulder Canyon is between 32,000 and 43,000. Out of a total of 472 observed canyon users during the observation period, 309 were climbers, or 65%, making climbers the largest documented user group in Boulder Canyon. The study also showed that the busiest and most popular climbing areas, in order include: Animal World, Avalon, and Castle Rock. Summer and fall are the most frequent climbing seasons, with trad climbing and sport climbing making up the majority of use. According to the study, the high-use areas are also the areas with the most observed erosion on approach routes, parking areas, base areas, and descent routes. This is likely due to climbers’ foot traffic causing erosion and vegetation damage in areas where there aren’t adequate access trails.
“This study is an important step in the formation of a stewardship coalition for Boulder Canyon,” says Joe Sambataro, Access Director of the Access Fund. Due to the complexity of land ownership, there are currently no uniform or comprehensive climbing management plans in Boulder Canyon. In order to protect access for all users, Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund are calling for an increased investment in sustainable management. “By showing the different needs and impacts of climbing activities in the canyon, the study provides a valuable data point to encourage cooperation amongst all involved stakeholders to help identify priorities for future stewardship.”
“Climbers are not merely users of the land,” says Roger Briggs, Operations Manager of the Boulder Climbing Community. “We encourage climbers to minimize their impacts when climbing, but also to be actively involved as stewards in cooperation with land owners and agencies.” Most recently, Boulder Climbing Community, Action Committee for Eldorado, Flatirons Climbing Council, and local climbers have been tirelessly volunteering on restoration of local trails damaged in September’s severe flooding. “It is great to see climbers giving back to the lands where they climb,” says Roger Briggs.
About the Boulder Canyon User Study
The purpose of the study was to provide information on climbing activities to local land agencies and local nonprofit organizations to help inform and prioritize future stewardship projects as part of a larger Boulder Canyon Stewardship Coalition. The author is Travis Flohr, who is currently pursuing a Design and Planning PhD in the sustainability and healthy environments track at the University of Colorado Denver. The study analyzed 524 online user studies, 25 car counts at major pullouts throughout the canyon, 8 additional user surveys, and 5 user counts. The study can serve as a model for other dispersed recreation areas across the country and be improved upon to provide additional concrete results. For more information, see boulderclimbingcommunity.net.
Climbers Help Stall Oak Flat Land Exchange
The Southeast Arizona Land Exchange and Conservation Act came to the floor of the U.S. House of Representatives for a vote on September 26th, along with three proposed amendments. The bill was expected to pass the House fairly easily, as its nearly identical predecessor in the 112th Congress did last year. However, the bill was tabled because Republican leadership did not have the votes necessary to defeat the third amendment, which would essentially kill the bill.
It took an enormous, well-coordinated lobbying effort to get this result. In the weeks leading up to the scheduled floor vote, intense face-to-face lobbying was done by several Native American groups, environmental groups, and the Access Fund. Access Fund members should be proud of their significant contribution in stalling this bill—helping to bombard members of Congress with nearly 1,000 opposition letters.
It is likely that sponsors of this legislation will make additional efforts to pass the bill in this Congress, but our collective actions have caused them to delay a vote until they believe they have the necessary votes for passage. At least temporarily, we have helped to stifle the momentum that this legislation had in the House.
Government Shutdown Closes Climbing Areas Across the Country
When the government shut down nearly two weeks ago, we lost access to many climbing areas across the country. Those of you who had trips planned to Yosemite or other staffed public lands were left out in the cold. Although some public lands and trails that do not require staff have remained open, most services and amenities have been shut down. Our members have generated nearly 1,000 letters to Congress in the past two weeks, letting our representatives know that this is having a real impact on real people. Even though it might seem like a futile effort, these letters are getting read and are helping to increase the pressure on both sides to find a timely resolution to this situation. If you haven’t yet written a letter, we encourage you to do so. Visit our Action Center to quickly identify your representatives and fire off a letter with your story.
Iowa Climber's Coalition Newest Joint Member Affiliate
We are pleased to welcome the Iowa Climber's Coalition (ICC) as the Access Fund’s newest joint member affiliate. The ICC works to steward and protect Iowa's climbing areas, like Pictured Rocks State Park. ICC is also working to open access to climbing on private land in Iowa. The Access Fund is excited to expand our partnership with ICC to include joint membership. You can now join both organizations at the same time, with a single membership—benefits from both organizations for the cost of one! Joint membership starts at just $35. Join today!
Washington Access Roads at Risk
The Mt. Baker Snoqualmie National Forest is going through a process to identify Forest Service roads for possible closure due to factors such as federal budget cuts, road washouts, and varying ideas about where and what kind of access is appropriate or desirable.
The Forest Service is taking comments for this identification process, and climbers need to participate or our voice will not be heard. The Mt. Baker Snoqualmie National Forest is working with an informal Sustainable Roads Cadre, a diverse group of partners and stakeholders including Washington Climbers Coalition, to conduct a survey on the most important roads for public access. This information will be used to make future decisions about road projects, such as upgrades, closures, decommissioning, and road-to-trail conversions.
We need your help to review this list of the 26 Mt. Baker Snoqualmie Forest Service roads and the climbing areas and peaks that they access. Then take a short 15 minute survey and specify the roads that you commonly use, making special note for roads that see few other user groups.
Southeastern Climbers Coalition Celebrates 20th Anniversary
Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC), one of the leading local climbing organizations in the country, is celebrating their 20th anniversary this year. They began protecting climbing access at Sunset rock in 1993, and have been pivotal in protecting access to dozens of climbing areas across the Southeast, from Tennessee Wall to Foster Falls to Boat Rock. SCC has been particularly successful in purchasing privately owned climbing areas. They currently own 6 crags and lease 2 others. SCC has been a strong and steady Access Fund partner since their inception, and we're proud to congratulate them on 20 great years. Celebrations and a special member drive are well underway. For more information go to www.seclimbers.org.
The Vision Lives On - Southeastern Climbers Coalition | 2013 from Luke Padgett on Vimeo.
Boulder Climbing Community Signs MOU with Forest Service
The Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) and Boulder Ranger District of the US Forest Service (USFS) finalized a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) to partner together on stewardship projects in Boulder Canyon, Colorado. There is a growing need to address stewardship in the canyon and BCC has taken the lead to work with the various land agencies and partners to mobilize volunteers and resources that ensure climber access is sustainable for generations to come. Specifically, the MOU documents the cooperation between the USFS and BCC to work together towards stewardship and conservation programs and projects. MOUs like this play an important role in working cooperatively with land managers. Way to go BCC!
See the MOU!
Access Fund Reaches $1 Million Mark with Second Round of 2013 Grants
The Access Fund is pleased to announce that it has awarded over $1 million to local organizations, climbers and public agencies through the Climbing Preservation Grants Program. “We are thrilled to have put over $1 million dollars back into local climbing communities over the last two decades,” says Joe Sambataro, Access Director. “These funds empower climbers to improve their climbing areas, showing land managers that climbers are responsible stewards.” The Climbing Preservation Grants Program has been in place since the Access Fund’s inception in 1991, and awards up to $40,000 in grant money a year to local climbing communities with worthy projects that preserve or enhance climbing access. This second round of 2013 grant recipients has set the organization over the $1 million mark. We are pleased to announce funding for the following projects:
Friends of Muir Valley: Emergency Road Erosion Control – We are pleased to announce a grant toThe Friends of Muir Valley (FoMV) to create a retaining wall to reclaim 10 feet of essential right-of-way to the emergency access road, which was lost during a flash flood in July. After the flood, the rear wheel of an ambulance fell off the edge of the road during a climber rescue, with the paramedics and patient inside. A four-wheel drive vehicle had to pull it back onto the road. This project will safeguard this vital access point, allowing first responders to safely reach the entire valley climbing area, which covers 400 acres and 350 different climbing routes.
Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council: Red Rocks Education and Awareness – We are pleased to announce a grant to The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council to continue stocking human waste disposal bags at Red Rocks (which currently average about 2,100 bags per year), install more dispensers throughout the climbing area, and provide educational signage regarding proper human waste disposal. This project will help mitigate climber impacts in high traffic areas like the Calico Hills, Kraft Boulders, and Black Velvet Canyon, thus preserving both culturally and ecologically sensitive sites as the number of climbers grows.
Minnesota Climbers Association: Save Sandstone Bouldering – Nearly ten years ago, the Minnesota Climbers Association (MCA) worked with private landowners to gain access to the high-quality bouldering area in Sandstone, Minnesota. This past fall, the MCA got word that the landowners were looking to sell the property, putting public access at imminent risk. The landowners generously agreed to give local climbers the first opportunity to purchase the land. With support from MCA and Access Fund, the Parks & Trail Council of Minnesota (PTCM) has agreed to purchase the property to be integrated into the nearby Banning State Parks. This grant will help PTCM purchase and hold the 108 acres of prime bouldering.
Mohonk Preserve: Climber Education at Lime Kiln Loop – We are pleased to announce a grant to The Mohonk Preserve, in partnership with the Gunks Climbers’ Coalition, to promote climber safety, ethics, etiquette, and ecological responsibility among climbers who access a popular local bouldering area via the Lime Kiln Loop trail. The grant money will fund the design and installation of interpretive/wayfinding signs, as well as three on-site public education programs that inform climbers about the area’s rich ecology and natural history. The project goal is to strike a balance between climber access, safety, and ecological protection.
Ouray Ice Park, Inc.: South Park Bathroom – Every year more psyched climbers enjoy The Ouray Ice Park than in years past. With this increase in visitation comes significant impact. We are pleased to announce a grant to The Ouray Ice Park to construct non-permanent and self-contained bathroom facilities in the South Park area of the park, which does not currently contain accessible bathroom facilities. Human waste will be removed for proper treatment, minimizing climber impact in this world-class park. This project will demonstrate to land managers and owners that the climbing community is serious about minimizing our impact on this truly unique resource.
Rumney Climbers Association: Capacity Building – We are pleased to offer a grant to the Rumney Climbers Association (RCA), which has been in existence since the early 1990s and was one of the first beneficiaries of an Access Fund land acquisition. In order to conserve and maintain the wonderful rock and ice climbing resources at Rumney, RCA will use the grant money to obtain their 501c3 nonprofit status. This will enable them a variety of benefits to more effectively pursue their mission to protect and steward the Rumney climbing area.
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance: Technical Rock Work Tools – For the past decade, the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) has organized half a dozen stewardship projects each year to improve and maintain climbing areas. This grant will help SLCA purchase technical rock work tools, safety protection for volunteers, and cleaning and maintenance materials for tools so that they can better execute their stewardship mission. The tools will be used to construct high quality trails and staging areas, made of natural long lasting materials, at crags across the Wasatch Range.
Access Fund Welcomes Illinois Climbers Association as Newest Joint Member Affiliate
We are pleased to welcome the Illinois Climbers Association (ICA) as the Access Fund’s newest joint member affiliate. The ICA has been working to steward and protect access to Illinois' climbing areas—places like Jackson Falls and Holy Boulders. The Access Fund is excited to expand our partnership with ICA to include joint membership. You can now join both organizations at the same time, with a single membership—benefits from both organizations for the cost of one! Joint membership starts at just $35
Carolina Climbers Revive Climbing at Rocky Face
Central North Carolina has a newly opened climbing area, thanks to the work of Carolina Climber's Coalition (CCC) and Boone Climbers Coalition (BCC). "Rocky Face is an old quarry with routes that were developed in the 80s," says Mike Trew, CCC/BCC board member. Last year, Alexander County established the new Rocky Face Mountain Recreational Area, offering hiking, picnicking, and more. They sought out their in-state local climbing organizations for help to open and manage the area's climbing. CCC and BCC representatives jumped at the opportunity, and began an ongoing partnership with the county to promote and steward Rocky Face. Local climbers recently replaced many of the crag's aging fixed anchors, reviving more routes for climbers to enjoy. Rocky Face is about an hour north of Charlotte. A permit is required to climb.
Conservation Team Heads West
After a busy spring and summer leading stewardship projects at crags across the east, the Access Fund-Jeep Conservation Team has crossed the Mississippi to show our western climbing areas some love. Eddie and Claire just finished a trail project at Mount Rushmore National Monument, working alongside National Monument staff and volunteers from the Blackhills Climber’s Coalition. The team then made their way to Salt Lake City for the summer Outdoor Retailer tradeshow, and is now in Washington State, where they will work with the Washington Climbers Coalition and the Wenatchee National Forest to repair and improve the descent trail off Castle Rock. The team will wrap up the month of August doing trail work at Ruth Lake and attending the Craggin’ Classic, hosted by the American Alpine Club and the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance.
Check out Eddie & Claire’s schedule here.