CLOSEDParadise on the Brazos, TX
The property owner of Paradise on the Brazos in Graham, Texas officially closed the area to climbing. He is still operating his normal business, but shut down climbing as of May 13. As always, the climbing community is asked to respect the wishes of the property owner.
Elys Peak Update, MN
By Kaija Webster, Access Fund RC
Climbers visiting the Ely's Peak climbing area near Duluth, Minnesota should be aware of recent access issues at the crag. The owner of the private land on the north side of the Munger Trail has been having cars towed if they are parked near his driveway access on the south of the Munger Trail. The same landowner is very unhappy about climbers and hikers taking the traditional trail to Ely's which runs through his private property. Anyone hiking to the base of Ely's Peak should park on the public land side of the parking area and use the new climber's access trail.
For details and a map of where to park and where to hike, go to the Trip Reports section of the forum, Ely's Peak thread, at www.minnesotaclimbing.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=8.
In response to the land owners concerns, the City of Duluth, the DNR and the Access Fund have worked together with climbers to block off trails that lead to private land and to more clearly sign the area. Regional climbers came together on very short notice to help make the service day happen early in the season.
Nice work! Photos of the service day can be found at www.umdrsop.org/climbing/photos/elys_service_day/index.htm
And just to be clear, the climbs at Ely's Peak and the new access trail are entirely on public land and the City of Duluth has been very supportive of climbers continuing to use the area for climbing.
In Other News:
The Access Fund hosted its fourth annual Regional Climbers Forum on April 28 at the Midwest Mountaineering Outdoor Expo in Minneapolis, MN. There was a great turn out of climbers from Minnesota and Wisconsin.
For a summary of what was discussed at the forum, go to www.minnesotaclimbing.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=8 under the General Climbing thread.
Oregon Bill Requiring Emergency Locator Beacons on Mt. Hood May Not Become Law
An Oregon bill that would require Mt. Hood climbers to carry emergency locator beacons recently stalled in the Oregon Senate leading some to believe that the measure will fail this legislative session.
Earlier this year the Access Fund joined the Mountain Rescue Association and Portland Mountain Rescue in opposing a mandatory use of these simple one way devices. See the Access Fund testimony on the bill www.accessfund.org/pdf/HR_2509_Testimony.pdf. Find more background at www.accessfund.org/pubs/en/e-news77.htm#_Oregon_Beacon_Bill.
Steve Rollins, who conducts SAR activities on Mt. Hood, says the legislature can't mandate good judgment. I'm a strong believer that the laws of nature are going to be far more powerful than any law our legislators come up with. And if we can educate people to respect the laws of nature more, that will go a lot further than any law that we come up with.
The bill, while a well-intentioned attempt at addressing recent high profile rescue and recovery efforts on Oregons Mt. Hood, is a knee-jerk reaction and will not prevent climbers from being injured or killed in climbing related accidents. The bill simply adds a layer of red-tape to climbing a mountain and at worst could actually give less experienced climbers a sense of false security when presented with conditions out of their control.
Despite climbing groups and professional rescuers coming out against the bill, in late March the Oregon House of Representatives voted 33-22 to require the locator devices for all Mt. Hood climbers traveling above 10,000 feet. However, the bill was referred to the Senate General Government Committee where it is expected to not emerge with a vote in part because the legislation had no existing enforcement capability and no money to fund its regulation. Critics of the bill also note that the measure is reactive, not proactive. The Hood River News reports that virtually every mountaineering organization in Oregon opposed SB 2509 and pointed out that state statistics showed only 3.4 percent of rescues statewide involved climbers. Many in the Oregon legislature are now focused on efforts to fund search and rescue efforts conducted by county sheriff departments. For more information contact email@example.com
Update - Farley Ledge, MA
By Rob Sullivan, Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition
The Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition (WMCC), an Access Fund Affiliate closed on a nine-acre parcel of land abutting Farley Ledge. Ownership of this parcel provides permanent public access while saving a precious natural resource from certain development.
Farley Ledge represents a unique and unspoiled natural outdoor recreation area in Erving, Massachusetts. Farley is a primary rock-climbing destination in New England, and includes one of the most impressive sections of the nationally recognized Metacomet-Monadnock Trail. Farley is home to five-star trad climbing, sport climbing, ice climbing, bouldering and top roping. Only 1.5 hours from downtown Boston, the crag features superb rock qualitycomparable to English grit in its best momentsand offers the only true multi-pitch experience in MA.
Farleyoften billed as the best crag between the Gunks and Rumneyis virtually unknown. Its mythical status can be attributed largely to its unstable access. While the crag itself is owned by a utility that must encourage recreation, current parking is located at a small, privately owned eight-car lot, and trail access lies across a patchwork of additional private land parcels. Access is constantly threatened by the disparate voices of land abutters. The WMCC have worked closely to soothe these neighbors. Even so, the trailhead has been moved several times and the crag itself has been closed four times in the last twenty years.
This purchase ends all that uncertainty. Construction of a new trailhead and parking lotthe easiest part of this whole processshould be finished in time for the fall season. Perhaps most encouraging of all is the fact that this success story represents the efforts of a large, organized and motivated community on the local, regional and national level. Locals sniffed out, carried and closed the deal; the Appalachian Mountain Club offered substantial funds at a critical juncture; the Access Fund provided a significant grant as well as invaluable guidance and support (the land purchase is a direct result of AFs Acquisition Summit held last year).
So we all deserve a pat on the back and tour come fall.
Update on Red River Gorge, KY
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition
Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) The Red River Reunion and a grant from Patagonia secured the funds for RRGCC owned Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) 2007 mortgage payment. The Patagonia grant was received with the assistance of the Benchmark Outdoor Outfitters of Cincinnati, Ohio. Our sincere thanks go to all of the climbers and businesses who contributed to the 2007 fundraising effort.
On May 7 the RRGCC, Charmane Oil and Lee County agreed to work together to provide maintenance needs for Bald Rock Fork Road aka the road to the Motherlode, Sore Heel Hollow, Bob Marley, and Drive-By areas of the PMRP. The RRGCC Board approved a motion to provide Charmane up to $2,000 to defray material costs for maintaining the roads on the PMRP that are used by climbers.
In order to maintain positive relations between the three parties, climbers are asked to drive slowly, yield to other vehicles, and not obstruct oil facilities or vehicles. For climbers visiting the PMRP during the week if oil vehicles are blocking the road, climbers should consider going to another crag. It is also asked that climbers think about carpooling to the PMRP/Motherlode areas, use a 4WD vehicle or other vehicle that is capable of negotiating these roads, and show common courtesy to oil workers and others driving in the area.
Finally, the RRGCC is monitoring ownership issues regarding the renowned Motherlode sport climbing crag. The local owners of the land have told RRGCC representatives that they have separately sold the mineral rights for the property and that they intend to make surface rights available on eBay Reserve.
Torrent Falls is being purchased by climber and Red River Gorge hero Dr. Bob Matheny. Dr. Matheny will use the main bed and breakfast building at Torrent as his personal vacation home. The cabins on the property will still be available for rental through a management company. The current Torrent owners, Mark and Kathy Meyer will continue to operate their barbecue and climbing adventure business on the property next door. As the Meyers have been living in the main building at Torrent, climbing will continue to be limited to paid guests until they find a new home. After the purchase is finalized in a closing, conditions for a partial reopening of climbing will be announced.
Update-Madrone Wall, OR
By Keith K. Daellenbach, www.savemadrone.org
For the past several months, Access Fund Regional Coordinator Kellie Rice has actively participated in monthly Clackamas County Parks Advisory Board meetings advocating immediate funding for the parks master planning followed by funding for capital improvements (e.g., on-site parking) in subsequent years. While provisional funding allocations for capital improvements are not allocated until 2009, there is reason to be optimistic.
On 22 April, the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee conducted a well attended (36 people) tour of the Madrone Wall site in Clackamas County. Most of those attending had not been to the site which has been posted "No Trespassing" for nearly ten years. One of the participants was new County Commissioner Lynn Peterson who provided encouragement that the park creation process is moving forward. County financial planning has apparently allocated funding to the parks master planning process in the county's next fiscal year to commence 1 July. Beyond that, more planning will be required to, for example, prepare for capital expenditures in the coming years. One of the largest capital expenditures will be to establish on-site parking. The Madrone Wall Preservation Committee continues to work with government and private philanthropic organizations to raise funding to offset county expenses.
2007 And Beyond, Skaha, BC
By Climbers' Access Society of BC
Access to Skaha is in place for 2007, and The Land Conservancy of B.C. (TLC) and Skaha rockclimbers have been working hard on public access to Skaha for 2008 and beyond, with support from Mountain Equipment Co-op, the Access Society, and others.
TLC has agreed to buy 300 hectares of nearby private land (sublot 18 - southeast of Braesyde). When/if the land is bought, and needed work done, it will provide permanent public access to Skaha. Thanks to TLCs partners, a generous donation by the current owner, and other donations, much of the needed money has been raised. We need to raise $1 million by June 30th, and the climbing community must do everything it can to help. (The owner of sublot 18 extended the deadline from April 30th.)
How You Can Help
Make a donation to TLC, soon, and encourage all your friends to also do so. If you're a member of MEC, make your donation at www.conservancy.bc.ca/MEC-skaha and double your donation. Otherwise, see the links below.
If you can help with fundraising, or have ideas or connections that may help, contact TLC or the Access Society at www.access-society.ca/
Access Fund to work on Mt. Rainier Flood Recovery Initiative, WA
In November of 2006, torrential downpours across the American Northwest resulted in extensive flooding that caused an unprecedented amount of damage to the roadways, campgrounds, and trails of Mt. Rainier National Park. Repair costs of front country resources and lower elevation trails alone is expected to exceed $36 million dollars, with extensive levels of damage to backcountry resources which remain undetermined until this years snowpack melts.
As a primary destination for mountaineering in North America, the Access Fund is assisting with the rehabilitation of Mt. Rainiers alpine trails, campgrounds, and climbers resources. Restoration projects will begin this summer once an inventory of projects has been compiled and will likely take two to three summer seasons of work to complete.
The Student Conservation Association (SCA) was named to lead the recovery efforts and the Access Fund looks forward to working with SCA and our grassroots network towards spearheading projects that directly rehabilitate climbing resources in this valuable alpine environment.
To learn more visit the Student Conservation Association website: www.thesca.org/Mt_Rainier_Recovery/ or contact Kristo Torgersen at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Access Fund Urges Appellate Court to Overturn Climbing Ban at Cave Rock, NV
By Paul Minault, Access Fund N. California Regional Coordinator
On February 15th, attorneys for the Access Fund appeared before a three-judge panel of the federal Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals in San Francisco to urge the court to overturn the Forest Services ban on climbing access at Cave Rock on Lake Tahoes Nevada shore.
In oral argument, Access Fund attorney Jeremy Kernodle of the Dallas law firm of Haynes and Boone argued, among other things, that climbers were the only recreational group subject to the ban, while hikers, picnickers, boaters and fisherman were free to use the rock and the surrounding area as they wished.
The Forest Service issued a management plan for Cave Rock in 2003 prohibiting climbing on the formation. Following an unsuccessful administrative appeal to the Forest Service, the Access Fund filed suit in federal court in Nevada. In 2005, the District Court upheld the ban on the grounds that, in addition to protecting Washoe spiritual practices, the ban also had secular purposes. The court of appeals will issue its decision sometime later this year.
Climbing Access to Allen Spur, MT
By Tom Kalakay
In 2004, after many years of closure, the Allen Spur climbing crag was reopened. The reestablishment of climbing at Allen Spur came after much hard work by SMCC members who negotiated an easement with landowners, surveyed the trail location and constructed trails to the crag. Now, less than 3 years later, closure of the crag is once again possible.
Recently, a few careless individuals have been accessing the crag via routes other than those built and maintained by SMCC. In other words, they are trespassing in order to make their hike shorter. This is a strict violation of the easement agreement SMCC has with landowner Hilda Harper. If this activity continues, landowners will have little choice but to once again close the crags.
The climbing access at Allen Spur is simple.
1) Park only at Carter Bridge fishing access. For the month of April, 2007 the Montana FWP will be doing construction to expand the Carter Bridge access site. Please do not block construction machinery during that time.
2) After parking, walk north on the gravel road marked 'private drive'. Continue walking until you pass a small culvert. Turn right, after the culvert, onto a marked climbers trail. Follow the trail along a fence line, cross a gravel road and continue uphill past several switch-backs. You will then be on BLM land where the trail turns south and continues to the climbing areas.
Despite rumors to the contrary, this is the only legal climbing access to Allen Spur crags. DO NOT drive on the gravel road beyond Carter Bridge access. DO NOT access the crags by 'shortcutting' straight to the crags from East River Road. Both of these routes require trespassing across private land. Those who choose to trespass run the risk of arrest and may also cause landowners to close the area once and for all.
If you see or know of someone who insists on violating SMCC's easement agreement you should tell them to stop, or report them to authorities.
A map showing access at Allen Spur in detail is available for download at:cobalt.rocky.edu/~geology/allen_spur_access.pdf
Farley Ledge, MA
By Jeff Squire, Regional Coordinator and President Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition
The Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition is in the early stages of acquiring a 9-acre property abutting Farley Ledge, arguably the best piece of rock between Rumney and the Gunks. The purchase would be for the creation of a permanent parking lot, approach trail, protection of natural buffers, and to prevent potential development close to the cliffs.
Farley Ledge is largely owned by Northeast Utilities, but their site license contains a recreational stipulation requiring that they provide recreational opportunities. As a result, access issues have always been over the parking and approach trails.
Farley has already been closed four times due to growing crowds and abutting landowner concerns. The WMCCs goal is to put an end to this cycle permanently through the acquisition of this property. The goal is to raise $75,000 by spring when the current landowner would like to close.
We will need everyones support for this project. This is likely the best thing to happen for western Mass climbing. Visit our website to learn more or to donate www.westernmacc.com. It would be a shame to loose this opportunity and be faced with new homes less than 100 from the cliff!
Hope for Access, Torrent Falls, KY
Pending final approval of the loan and closing, Torrent Falls has been purchased by Bob Matheny (Dr. Bob) with the assistance of Matt and Amy Tackett. Mark Meyers and his family will continue to live at Torrent and the area is not currently open for climbing. Details regarding long term access for climbing are being worked out and will be announced when available.
Hueco Trip Report, TX
By Kristo Torgersen
In February 2007, the Access Fund traveled to Hueco Tanks for the annual Hueco Rock Rodeo to advocate the Access Funds position and strategy and meet with park staff regarding the current status of access and potential threats to climbing at Hueco Tanks.
News of a potential transfer of Hueco Tanks from the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD) to the Texas Historical Commission (THC) surfaced in December 2006. In early February a letter from THC to the Access Fund stated that Hueco Tanks had been removed from the list for transfer. However, as the premiere cultural resource in the state, it is possible that this issue will resurface.
Additionally, there is a bill up for approval in the Texas Legislature which would provide a much needed increase of funding for Texas state and local parks (including Reimers Ranch).
During the visit to Hueco Tanks, the Access Fund met with Hueco Tanks Park Superintendent and Complex Manger to discuss strategy in support of TPWDs management and offer the resources of the Access Fund to achieve the common interests of the park and climbers. The Access Fund circulated a petition at the Hueco Rock Rodeo to educate climbers on the issue and gain signatures from Texan residents supporting the management of Hueco by TPWD and the allocation of additional funding to Texas State Parks.
During the third week of March the Access Fund was back in Texas to conduct an Austin-based lobbying initiative that included Texas climbers and other allied interest groups in meeting with Texas legislators and public land agency officials to preserve the financial security of Texas State Parks and Hueco Tanks in particular.
Hyalite Canyon Ice Climbing Update, MT
In February the Southwestern Montana Climbers Coalition http://montanaclimbers.org appealed a USFS decision in the Gallatin Travel Management Plan that significantly restricts ice climbing access in Hyalite Canyon.
The USFS decision would install a gate in lower Hyalite Canyon effectively turning what were day climbs into at least an overnight endeavor that most climbers wouldnt do, especially those without snowmobiles. The SMCC appeal, which seeks to eliminate the gate proposal and identify a long terms access solution, is supported by the backcountry skiing community, statewide politicians and community leaders, the motorized community, and basically every other interest group. Access Fund assistance in support of the SMCC included reviewing their USFS appeal, and assistance with lobbying strategy and Congressional meetings in both Montana and Washington, DC.
A recent resolution conference between the SMCC and USFS offered a 4-point proposal: (1) prioritize plowing on the Hyalite Road; (2) work with ice climbers and other groups to determine standards for when it would be appropriate to gate the road; (3) re-route a snowmobile alternative for accessing backcountry ice routes; and (4) hold off implementing the part of the travel plan affecting ice climbers until #2 and #3 are in place. As a result of this compromise proposal the SMCC agreed to not file for judicial review as long as the good faith conversations and negotiations are moving forward between climbers and the USFS. The SMCC will not, however, withdraw its appeal prior to an acceptable settlement.
Oregon Bill to Require Emergency Locator Beacons on Mt. Hood, OR
An Oregon bill that proposes mandating climbers on Mt. Hood to carry emergency locator beacons is poised to pass that states legislature.
We told you in our last E-News that the Access Fund opposes the mandatory use of these simple one way devices despite uninformed media pundits calling this position irresponsible. See the Access Fund testimony on the bill www.accessfund.org/pdf/HR_2509_Testimony.pdf. Find more background at www.accessfund.org/pubs/en/e-news77.htm - _Oregon_Beacon_Bill . Every mountain rescue unit in the state of Oregon opposes House Bill 2509 and the Mountain Rescue Association, which represents over 90 mountain rescue teams throughout North America, also opposes the bill. Steve Rollins with Portland Mountain Rescue, who has performed the rescues on Mt. Hood these last few months, also agrees with the Access Fund stance. Rollins says the legislature can't mandate good judgment. In an urban environment, we do everything we can do to make the world safe around us. And that is one of the beauties of the backcountry that it is untouched and it really is you and nature. I'm a strong believer that the laws of nature are going to be far more powerful than any law our legislators come up with. And if we can educate people to respect the laws of nature more, that will go a lot further than any law that we come up with.
The bill, while laudable in light of recent high profile rescue and recovery efforts that were featured in mainstream media of climbers on Oregons Mt. Hood, is a knee-jerk reaction and will not prevent climbers from being injured or killed in climbing related accidents. The bill simply adds a layer of red-tape to climbing a mountain and at worst could actually give less experienced climbers a sense of false security when presented with conditions out of their control (such as the fast-moving weather systems of the Pacific Northwest).
Despite climbing groups and professional rescuers coming out against the bill, in late March the Oregon House of Representatives voted 33-22 to require the locator devices for all Mt. Hood climbers traveling above 10,000 feet. The next step is for the bill to be assigned to a state Senate committee and then brought to that chamber for a vote. Oregon would become the first state to require such equipment if the bill is approved by the Senate and signed by the governor. It would go into effect as early as Jan. 1 2008.
Peter's Kill Season Pass, NY
By Christopher Spatz
In response to a Peters Kill climbing survey at Minnewaska State Park Preserve conducted by GCC Director-at-Large Bob OBrien (Minnewaskas Invasive Species Specialist), the park has recognized requests by frequent visitors of the climbing community for a season pass.
Eric Humphries, Minnewaskas new Superintendent, has issued the 2007 policy as follows: The Peters Kill Season Pass is $65 per individual and is valid for climbing/bouldering. The pass is valid from April 1st to December 15th, weather permitting. The Peters Kill Season Pass does not waive vehicle use fees at the other park entrances, and is valid only at the Peters Kill Area. Pass holder must present valid photo ID at check in. The Season Pass is Not Transferable and Non-Refundable. Pass Holder Must follow all park rules and regulations. Pass Holder will only be allowed entry if the climbing area has not reached the maximum number of permitted climbing/bouldering permits. The weekday/weekend day climbing pass remains $7.
For further information please contact the Minnewaska Park Preserve Office at 845-255-0752.
New also to this years Peters Kill climbing policy: climbers will be requested to check-out upon departure. Previously, once the maximum number of climbing visitors was reached, no further passes were issued. Check-out monitoring will allow the Peters Kill office to sustain the maximum number of climbing visitors during peak usage: 70 climbers and 30 boulderers.
The GCC wishes to thank Bob OBrien, Superintendent Humphries, and the Palisades Interstate Park Commission for accommodating the climbing communitys request for a season pass at Peters Kill.
Pinnacles National Monument Seeks Public Input for New General Management Plan, CA
The National Park Service at Pinnacles National Monument south of San Francisco, CA has begun revising its general management plan (GMP) which will serve as a blueprint to guide the park over the next twenty years.
This new master planning document for Pinnacles, home to hundreds of rock climbs, will identify important park issues, visitor opportunities, and program objectives many of which could affect current climbing policies www.pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.htm. For more information on the GMP process, see www.nps.gov/pinn/parkmgmt/planning.htm
A draft GMP is expected for public review in fall 2008 with a final GMP scheduled for completion in 2009.
Raptor Closure at Black Cliffs, ID
By Brian Fedigan
The Boise Climbers Alliance has closed sections of the Black Cliffs for raptor nesting. Current closures include the back of Car Body Canyon, Highway Face (all routes), Scary Canyon (all routes), the Iron Man Traverse and the Nixon Head. The route closures will last until late June. For detailed information on exact route closures go to www.boiseclimbs.com.
We are currently working with the Idaho Fish and Game to see what walls have current nesting activity. If an area is determined not to have a nesting raptor it will be opened immediately. This is a voluntary closure, but the cooperation of local climbers has enabled us to maintain free of federal and state imposed restrictions. Thanks so much for your cooperation.
RRGCC Fundraising Challenge, KY
By RRGC BOD
The Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition has had an anonymous benefactor volunteer to provide up to $5,000 in matching funds towards the 2007 Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve payment due on July 15, 2007. To help get our fundraising efforts underway and ensure we make our goals for 2007 they have agreed to the following challenge setup to add some fun and excitement to fundraising effort:
This challenge will run for three more monthsApril, May, & June 2007and the challenge amount for each month will be $1,250.
For each month if $1,250 is raised by the end of the month then that amount will be matched with $1,250 from the benefactor.
The postmark date will be considered the contribution date for mailed payments.
Whoever contributes the largest amount each month or those responsible for the largest fundraising event, whichever is greater, will be recognized as the "RRGCC Fundraiser of the Month. They will receive a gift package of appreciation consisting a climbing related DVD and a t-shirt at a minimum.
We are working on getting some other goodies to put in these packages and will let everyone know what they are as the packages are put together.
Home gym fundraisers were very effective last year as well as climber funded slideshows. Use your imagination, get your partners together and have some fun. Let's use this generous offer to help us continue to secure the largest, and one of the best, climber owned climbing area in the US.
For donation information see: www.rrgcc.org/membership.php
Thanks For Your Support!
Ship Rock Closure, NC
Area closure in effect: all access above the rock climb anguish of captain bligh is prohibited. The Boone Climbers Coalition is working in cooperation with the National Park Service to notify climbers of a closure at Ship Rock on the Blue Ridge Parkway.
ALL CLIMBERS, PLEASE NOTE trail, hiking, descent or ascent access above the routes Anguish of Captain Bligh and Harpoon is strictly prohibited. The anchors for the routes Anguish of Captain Bligh and Harpoon should only be approached by lead climbing either route. If your party plans to top rope either of these routes, one or the other must be lead. Top access to this set of anchors is strictly prohibited.
RAPPEL DESCENTS REQUIRED FOR ROCKCLIMBING AT SHIPROCK: all climbers must use existing rappel stations for descent. Rappel stations are located atop the routes: Boardwalk (for main section of cliff) and Edge of a Dream (for upper tier routes).
These closures will be posted with permanent signage soon if not currently. The BCC and the National Park Service work towards the common goals of protecting and preserving our park lands and providing opportunities to enhance responsible use of our climbing resources. So, in cooperation with the BCC, the National Park Service will be installing a Kiosk for climbers at Ship Rock. The Kiosk will contain information on rules and restrictions, closures, and safety info such as locations of rappel stations to descend the cliff.