Episode #19

Credit Photo Courtesy of:
Brian Poon


About this Episode

This month’s guest is Scott Underwood. Scott sits on the board of the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) and spearheads the Olympic Peninsula Climbers chapter of the WCC. He also leads the Washington Anchor Replacement Project (WARP). He has been an influential figure in Washington state because of his extraordinary rebolting and anchor replacement efforts over the years. This year, Access Fund awarded him a well-deserved Climbing Advocate award.

Scott and I cover all things bolting. He shared some of his personal experiences, how to identify bad bolts, how to start and structure a rebolting initiative, and much more. Old hardware and poor bolts are something many crags face around the country. The work required to install modern hardware takes a significant amount of time and dedication. Kudos to people like Scott, who take the time to dangle around on a rope for hours on end to ensure that our crags are safe and up to today’s standards.


Washington Anchor Replacement Project (WARP): https://washingtonanchors.org/

Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC): https://washingtonclimbers.org/

Bolting Literature and Information:

Access Fund: https://www.accessfund.org/our-causes/replace-aging-bolts

American Safe Climbing Association: https://www.safeclimbing.org/

UIAA: https://www.theuiaa.org/documents/safety/UIAA-WARNING-ABOUT-CLIMBING-ANCHORS-FAILURES_Dec15.pdf

Chockstone: http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/SoftRockBolting.pdf

Bolt Products: http://www.bolt-products.com/

Bolting Hardware:

Kong: https://www.kong.it/en/2-products/items/c2-sport/r7-anchorage

Fixe Hardware: https://fixehardware.com/

Petzl: https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Anchors