Climb Like a Local: Indian Creek

03/02/2017

Categories: Climb Like a Local

Indian Creek is a single pitch trad climbing hotspot surrounded by towering cliffs of Wingate sandstone. Get ready for tons of incredible splitter cracks in some of Utah’s most iconic—and rugged—terrain.

Rock climbing in Indian Creek, Utah
Photo courtesy of © Andrew Burr

TOP TEN CLASSIC ROUTES AT INDIAN CREEK

  1. Binou's Crack, 5.8
  2. Generic Crack, 5.10
  3. Wavy Gravy, 5.10
  4. Incredible Hand Crack, 5.10
  5. Nagasaki, 5.10
  6. Big Guy, 5.11
  7. Scarface, 5.11
  8. Puma, 5.11
  9. Cat Burglar, 5.12
  10. Way Rambo, 5.12

Check Out More!

Atmosphere at Indian Creek: Home to an eclectic collection of dirtbags, Indian Creek is heavy on desert vibes. With sweeping views and splitter cracks, this is the kind of climbing paradise that inspires people to live full-time out of their conversion vans.

Avoid the Crowds at Indian Creek: There’s tons of climbing in Indian Creek, so to avoid crowds don’t try to climb classics like Supercrack on the weekend. Head to any of the other 40+ crags and you won’t have to wait in line for 360-degree desert views.

Local Pet Peeve: Hangdogging. Make like a local and adhere to the "three strikes" rule—three tries on a route, and it’s someone else’s turn. Also, keep in mind that fragile desert sandstone absolutely should not be climbed when it’s wet. As they say in the Creek: “Mud on your feet? Retreat! Shoes dry? Go try!”

Indian Creek Risks! The cracks here are no joke. Get good at jamming, and sweet talk your friends into loaning you doubles (or triples, or quadruples) of everything on your rack. Some cracks will take as many as 10 or 12 of the same size cam. Grab a guidebook and pay attention to the rack recommendations—don’t skimp on gear.

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Photo Courtesy of:
Andrew Burr | Indian Creek

Indian Creek is Threatened

We need your help to protect Bears Ears National Monument and its exceptional climbing opportunities, including Indian Creek. Please take 5 minutes to submit a letter using our easy-to-use letter writing tool, and tell Secretary Zinke not to rescind or reduce Bears Ears National Monument.
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