Climb Like a Local: Red Rocks

02/15/2017

Categories: Climb Like a Local

Lose yourself in the dazzling Mojave Desert, and you might just forget how close you are to Sin City. Red Rocks has it all—from quality boulders to adventurous 20-pitch trad routes and everything in between. And in case you’re in the mood to get debaucherous, the rock climbing is just minutes from Vegas.

Rock climbing in Red Rock Canyon, Nevada
Photo © Jon Glassberg

Top Ten Classic Climbs at Red Rocks

  1. Solar Slab, 5.6
  2. Birdland, 5.7
  3. Crimson Chrysalis, 5.8
  4. Epinephrine, 5.9
  5. Dream of Wild Turkeys, 5.10
  6. Levitation 29, 5.11 (Lynn Hill's all-time favorite climb!)
  7. Running Man, 5.11
  8. Cloud Tower, 5.12
  9. Original Route, 5.12

Check Out More!

Red Rocks Atmosphere: You’ll find trad climbers, sport climbers, and boulderers—in that order—at Red Rocks. Despite the abundance of trad climbers, you’ll be hard-pressed to find them when you first roll up—they’re way off down in the main canyons exploring big multi-pitch terrain. The hard sport climbers (remnants of the 1980s Red Rocks sport renaissance) can be found in the Calico Hills. We have yet to meet anyone who doesn't love climbing at Red Rocks.

Avoid the Crowds at Red Rocks: Red Rocks classics tend to be crowded, but if you branch out from the easier multi pitch climbs, you will be rewarded. Even a short hike will get you away from the lines. As a rule of thumb, the farther you get from the loop, the fewer people you’ll run into when climbing.

Local Pet Peeve: Climbing on wet rock. The sandstone here is super fragile, so it’s easy to damage if you climb on it during or after rain. How do you know if the rock is too wet? If the ground under your intended route is anything but dusty, pick another spot to climb until it dries out.

Red Rocks Risks! Access to the 13-Mile Scenic Drive Loop, which brings you to a number of classic Red Rock climbs, is limited to daylight hours. The loop opens at 6am every day and closes at sunset (5pm November through February; 7pm March and October; and 8pm April through September). The BLM does issue parking tickets, but you can avoid one by calling 702-515-5050 up to a week before climbing at Red Rocks to secure a Late Exit Permit. Just be sure to leave all the information required, or they won’t issue you one.

Red Rocks Camping: The camping situation in Red Rocks has recently changed. The Bureau of Land Management has moved the camping to a national reservation system. Reservations can be made up to 6 months prior but cannot be made later than 48 hours prior of arrival. Expect the winter and spring climbing season to be especially busy so plan ahead. Visit http://www.recreation.gov or call 1-877-444-677 to make a reservation.

Who Has Your Back in Red Rocks? The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition represents the climbing community at Red Rocks.

Red Rocks Pro Tip: Red Rocks and sunny days go together like french fries and ketchup. While most people only visit the desert during the dead of winter, you can find plentiful shade and good climbing temperatures at Red Rocks well into April most years. Check the guidebook for North Facing crags with a little exposure (wind), and if that isn't cool enough for you, nearby limestone zones like Mt. Potosi, Mt Charleston, and Clark Mountain are higher elevation and completely climbable even into the summer months. ~Jonathan Siegrist, pro climber and Red Rocks regular

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