Bill would protect Wilderness climbing and America’s climbing history

A new bill from Representatives John Curtis (R-Utah) and Joe Neguse (D-Colo.), the Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act (H.R. 1380), would bring consistency to federal climbing management policy and protect some of America’s most iconic Wilderness climbing areas. Full text of the bill is available here. Access Fund brought together these pro-climbing legislative champions, Wilderness policy experts, and everyday rock climbers to craft the policy. The bill responds to a growing threat from the National Park Service, which has recently moved to prohibit fixed anchors in Wilderness areas in California and Colorado. It is the first ever standalone climbing bill that provides national-level protections for sustainable Wilderness climbing uses.

“Access Fund’s core mission is to protect America’s climbing, and we’re thrilled to help craft and support a new bill that would do just that: the Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act,” says Access Fund Executive Director Chris Winter. “Thanks to the incredible leadership of Representatives Curtis and Neguse, we have an opportunity to protect Wilderness climbing and America’s exceptional climbing history.”

Yosemite National Park, California. Ancestral lands of Me-Wuk, Nüümü, and Miwok. © Francois Lebeau.

Wilderness plays an important role in American climbing—past and present. Some of the most iconic climbing in the country is located within Wilderness, including areas like El Capitan, The Diamond on Longs Peak, Joshua Tree’s Wonderland of Rocks, and North Carolina’s iconic Linville Gorge. Climbers have always relied on the legal and conditional use, placement, and maintenance of bolts and other fixed anchors. These anchors help keep these areas pristine, while still allowing climbers to safely ascend and descend technical routes. The Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act would bring consistency to federal management of climbing in Wilderness areas across land management agencies, including the management of fixed anchors, bolts, and other hardware. It enjoys broad support from recreationists and conservationists across the country.

“The bipartisan Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act is anchored to the benefits of rock climbing, which is good for our health, rural economies, and our public lands,” says Winter. “It’s also a testament to the growing power of the climbing advocacy movement, which is dedicated to protecting the land through smart climbing management policy that ensures sustainable access for climbers.”

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Colorado. Ancestral Ute lands. © Henna Taylor.

Representatives Curtis and Neguse both represent districts with strong climbing communities and economies that depend on the $12 billion climbing industry.

“In Utah, recreation on public lands is a large and ever-growing industry,” says Congressman Curtis. “Ensuring access to these lands is vital not just for our economy, but also to ensure the millions of Americans who enjoy rock climbing can fully explore our nation’s national treasures.” 

“Colorado’s natural areas are home to some world-renowned rock climbing locations. By requiring additional agency guidance on climbing management, we are taking steps to protect our climbers and the spaces in which they recreate,” says Congressman Neguse. “I am thankful to Rep. Curtis for his continued partnership in our efforts to bolster outdoor recreation, and am glad to join him in introducing this legislation.”

This is not the first time Western elected leaders have advocated for Wilderness climbing. As Colorado Governor Jared Polis said in a November 2022 letter to land management agencies:

“We should be doing everything we can right now to grow the coalition of champions for public lands and to support our land management agencies in responding to climate change and taking care of the places entrusted to our care. In contrast, a new prohibition on fixed anchors in Wilderness would jeopardize the safety of climbers, harm our recreation economy [...], establish unnecessary bureaucracy, and restrict access to some of the wildest places in America.”

America’s 8 million climbers are a powerful climbing advocacy movement. Access Fund works to empower climbers with the tools they need to be effective advocates for the lands and sport they love—whether that’s elevating their voices to lawmakers, connecting them to volunteer opportunities, providing training and grants for local access and conservation projects, or helping them minimize their environmental impacts. Every climber has an incredible opportunity to influence the future of climbing and the greater conservation movement. Access Fund will share opportunities for climbers to weigh in on this impactful issue very soon.

How you can help

This is just the first step. There's a long road ahead to get this bill across the finish line. Stay tuned for an upcoming action alert, and please consider helping to fund our advocacy efforts in Washington, D.C.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What are fixed anchors?
A: Fixed anchors are defined as climbing equipment—bolts, pitons, or slings—left in place to facilitate ascent or descent of technical terrain (USDA Forest Service, 1999). These anchors are a critical component of a climber’s safety system. Fixed anchors are typically placed by the first ascensionist on technical ascents and descents (rappels) where removable anchor placements are not viable.

Q: What’s the history of fixed anchors? Why do they matter?
A: Climbers have relied on the legal and conditional use, placement, and maintenance of bolts and other fixed anchors since the 1930s. These anchors help keep these areas pristine, while still allowing climbers to safely ascend and descend technical routes. Many established routes existed in areas that were later designated as Wilderness. For example, Rocky Mountain National Park’s Wilderness, which includes the legendary Diamond, was designated in 2009 - long after the majority of the climbing routes were established. The Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act would bring consistency to federal management of climbing in Wilderness areas across land management agencies, including the management of fixed anchors, bolts, and other hardware. It enjoys broad support from recreationists and conservationists across the country.

Q: What is Access Fund’s stance on fixed anchors in Wilderness?
A: Climbers have been essential to protecting America's public lands, supporting environmental legislation and designating Wilderness areas. Wilderness climbing can be an important catalyst for that advocacy.

The agencies that manage Wilderness areas already have the tools they need to effectively manage climbing, and fixed anchors are not just a tool for access but also an essential tool for conservation. Agencies can require permits or educational prerequisites for placing fixed anchors. The 2013 National Park Service policy called DO#41 is an example of this. They can also restrict climbing to protect natural and cultural resources as well as traditional values. Seasonal raptor closures to protect nesting birds are extremely common in the US. Some areas, like Denali National Park, even require permits to climb.

Fixed Anchors can also guide climbers away from more sensitive areas or lessen the erosion that can occur on descents. In fact, Joshua Tree itself specifically authorized fixed anchors in Wilderness to protect trees that were used as rappel stations. They can also reduce both the need for rescues—by making climbing and descending safer—and the impacts of the complicated rescues that are sometimes still necessary.

Access Fund supports Wilderness fixed anchor management policies that allow climbers some level of control, while in a Wilderness setting, to make decisions regarding fixed anchor placements where no other options are available. These policies allow climbers to make legal, critical decisions regarding personal safety in unforgiving conditions often experienced in rugged Wilderness settings. Only a very small minority of climbers partake in Wilderness-based first ascents that involve the placement of fixed anchors; however, the ability of climbers to place these anchors is a privilege worth protecting because it embodies “outstanding opportunities for solitude or a primitive and unconfined type of recreation” (Wilderness Act of 1964) associated with the purest forms of Wilderness exploration.

Q: Why is Wilderness climbing important in the first place?
A: Wilderness plays an important role in American climbing—past and present. Some of the most iconic climbing in the country is located within Wilderness, including areas like El Capitan, The Diamond on Longs Peak, Joshua Tree’s Wonderland of Rocks, and North Carolina’s iconic Linville Gorge. These destinations are amazing places in their own right and help feed the whole community’s psyche. Wilderness climbing is a unique, adventurous style of climbing that is worth protecting.

Q: Is Access Fund advocating for sport climbing-style bolting in Wilderness areas with this bill?
A: No. Access Fund does not believe that Wilderness areas should become sport climbing meccas. These areas are special and deserve special levels of protection. The bill simply recognizes climbing as a legitimate activity in Wilderness areas and protects climbers' ability to sparingly place and replace bolts with a hand drill only. The bill does not propose to limit land managers' current ability to restrict climbing, when necessary, to protect natural or cultural resources.

Q: What does the Protect America’s Climbing Act do?
A: The bill requires that federal agencies develop national-level climbing management guidance. The U.S. Forest Service, which manages about 30% of climbing in America, does not currently have a single piece of national-level policy on climbing. The bill also provides allowances for fixed anchor placement, use, and maintenance in Wilderness. It does not dictate how each agency should allow fixed anchors. For example, power drills are always banned in Wilderness and agencies might choose to require permits or education. Agencies would not be able to fundamentally prohibit fixed anchors as illegal installations. In fact, federal agencies have never prohibited fixed anchors as installations since the passage of the Wilderness Act in 1964. Read the full text of the bill here.

Q: What tools do land managers already have to manage fixed anchors in Wilderness areas?
A: The Wilderness Act prohibits the use of power drills to place fixed anchors in Wilderness areas. Access Fund has always supported this restriction and educated the climbing community on our responsibilities to protect Wilderness areas. Land managers can also limit climbing—and other human powered recreational activities—to protect Wilderness character, social conditions, or natural and cultural resources. Tribal consultation is a critical step to ensure that climbing is not diminishing Indigenous values. Some land management agencies require prior authorization for the placement of fixed anchors in Wilderness, which can take the form of a case-by-case permit or a ‘programmatic’ authorization for an entire park unit or national forest.

Q: What’s the bill’s path to passage? What’s next?
A: The PARC Act was introduced to the House of Representative on March 7, 2023. We hope that the bill will get a timely hearing in its assigned House committees, and eventually get a floor vote. Alternatively, the bill could be combined with America’s Outdoor Recreation Act, and move forward within that package of recreation related bills. We hope that the bill will include a few technical revisions and eventually be reconciled with a Senate version. Access Fund thinks that this is a great bipartisan bill that the President will be proud to sign into law.

Q: What else should climbers know about recreating in Wilderness areas?
A: A Wilderness land designation offers the highest level of protection for public land with the purpose of conserving the landscape for historical, scientific, and recreational purposes. Wilderness requires our utmost respect for primitive Wilderness character and the natural and cultural resources found there. 

Take a look at the five facts we think every climber should know about climbing in Wilderness areas.