Inks Ranch Climbing Festival

Inks Ranch Climbing Festival: March 27-29, 2020 - REGISTRATION IS FULL

The Inks Ranch is a family-owned ranch just outside of Llano, TX that contains a trove of unclimbed granite boulders, slabs, and cracks. Climbers now have a unique opportunity to access the ranch for camping, climbing, and exploration during the Inks Ranch Climbing Festival. 

About the Festival

The Inks Ranch Climbing Festival will be a semi-annual weekend event where climbers can experience a pristine, wild granite landscape. Climbers are invited to the Inks Ranch to climb in one of the most unspoiled areas of the Texas hill country. All attendees must register through Eventbrite.
SOLD OUT

About the Ranch

Inks Ranch is a cattle and exotic game ranch that has been owned by the same family since the 1830s. The owners are looking to create opportunities for the public to experience the ranch under a controlled environment. They currently host a Jeep Jamboree event, hot air ballooning festival, clay shooting events, and have been the site of filming productions. Now they will explore rock climbing as a possible long-term addition to their recreational offerings.

Land Acknowledgment

This part of the Texas hill country is the ancestral territory of the Nʉmʉnʉʉ (Comanche). Members of this tribe stewarded these lands for generations and continue to live in the region today.

Access Note

The Inks Ranch is only open to the public on approved weekends. The Ranch is not open for “at will” public access.

Directions and Maps

The Inks Ranch is located 22 miles south of Llano, TX off of County Road 113A. A google map link can be found here. Follow Highway 16 either south from Llano or north from Fredericksburg until you reach the intersection with County Road 113. Head west on County Road 113 for 5.9 miles until you reach the intersection with County Road 113A (Inks Ranch Rd). Turn left on County Road 113A and drive for 4.3 miles passing through the open gates marked “Paradise Ranches.” Pass the small lake with the ranch houses and take a left on Inks Ranch Rd. Continue into the Ranch and park at the designated parking area with the metal staircase. A high clearance vehicle is not necessary to drive to the Inks Ranch.

Climbing Beta

Climbing at Inks Ranch is allowed on a portion of the Watch Mountain (the “climbing area”). The climbing is very similar to nearby Enchanted Rock; however, it is important to note that there is very little established climbing at Inks Ranch. Climbers should be self-reliant and competent with route finding, anchor building, and should always ensure that they have a way to descend a climb without leaving gear or tat behind. Climbers should also document their climbs and first ascents. A double rack, set of stoppers, draws, anchor building equipment, and a 50m rope should be adequate. Boulderers should take care not to damage the sensitive plants around the base of the boulders. Technical rock climbing is not allowed outside of the “climbing area” at this time (see Climbing Overview map).

What to Bring

The Inks Ranch Climbing Festival is a primitive event. Attendees should bring all food, water, stoves, tents, sleeping bags, and amenities necessary for 2 nights. There is no electricity or running water available. Camping is primitive. Portable restrooms will be provided near the Expo Area; however, please bring wagbags for backcountry travel. Cell service is spotty.

Route Development

Access Fund is looking for motivated volunteers in Texas to help with events, stewardship projects, and...drumroll...new route development. Candidates should: (1) have an established record of route development; (2) be comfortable with trad and sport; and (3) be able to work collaboratively with other developers. Most importantly, candidates should be able to represent Access Fund at events, fundraisers, and stewardship days. Email landprotection@accessfund.org with a brief paragraph detailing your qualifications and why you’d be a good fit to volunteer for Access Fund.

Ranch Rules

  • The Ranch is only open to the public during approved weekends. “At will” public access is not permitted.
  • Rock climbing is allowed from sunrise to sunset within the “climbing area.”
  • Camp and park only in approved areas. Technical 4x4 off-roading on the Ranch is prohibited.
  • Pack out what you pack in.
  • Hiking and low-impact nature enjoyment are permitted throughout the Ranch.
  • Campfires are allowed in approved areas. Only dead and down timber may be collected. Observe all county burn bans.
  • Do not trespass on adjacent properties.
  • Bolting is allowed by special arrangement. Inquire at landprotection@accessfund.org.
  • The Inks Ranch has loose livestock, wildlife, and exotic game. Pets are not allowed at the Ranch.
  • Hunting and/or the discharge of firearms is strictly prohibited.
  • Collecting, removing, or disturbing plants, rocks, or cultural artifacts is prohibited.

Get Involved

Volunteers are vital to Access Fund’s work in opening areas in Texas like the Inks Ranch. To get involved or to find out more about volunteer opportunities, email us at landprotection@accessfund.org.